Talaaya
Well-Known Member
I've begun work on a more complicated project, but in the meantime I wanted to get something new and quick done for PAX this year. I wanted it to be comfortable and easy to wear, since the only cosplays I currently have are neither of those things.
I chose Manny Calavera from the 90s point and click puzzle adventure game, Grim Fandango, specifically the beginning of the game outfit. Most people seem to do the white suit; I want to do something different and white suits are harder to source. Plus, doing the early game version means I get to choose from some of the best objects in the game to carry around with me. I am absolutely making a balloon animal Robert Frost. Hahaha I can't wait to walk around the con, wiggling the weird balloon...man...at people.
I'll be 3d printing the head, finding a cheap suit and shoes, and making some simple gloves. I've already finished the head model and started printing.
I could have gone a few directions here: keep it true to the original and be completely low poly, but that doesn't look very nice in real life and looks too much like it was folded out of paper; make it hyper realistic and round, but that would look weird and stray too far from the feel of the game and nostalgia; or, find a happy medium between beautifying it and staying reminiscent of the original low poly. I went with the last one. I kept the facets at the extremities but rounded them out to make them look nicer. I replaced the awkward side polygon edge with a nice curved crease, which represents the cheekbone.
I made almost every black part of the head into a hole to maximize air flow. They will all be covered in a black mesh. The only part I didn't do was the loop around the teeth since the teeth needed to attach to something. I'll paint that line black.
It will sit on my head about like this:
Normally there wouldn't be quite so many nubs on the prints I make, but this particular filament works best when the temperature is set very high, which causes stringing across gaps. It's easy enough to remove. In this picture I've broken off as much as I can with my fingers and I'll clean up the rest with a file. It usually pops right off.
I split the model into 13 parts to reduce the requirement for support material. Filling seams is much easier than trying to fix the scarring on the surface from the support.
I chose Manny Calavera from the 90s point and click puzzle adventure game, Grim Fandango, specifically the beginning of the game outfit. Most people seem to do the white suit; I want to do something different and white suits are harder to source. Plus, doing the early game version means I get to choose from some of the best objects in the game to carry around with me. I am absolutely making a balloon animal Robert Frost. Hahaha I can't wait to walk around the con, wiggling the weird balloon...man...at people.
I'll be 3d printing the head, finding a cheap suit and shoes, and making some simple gloves. I've already finished the head model and started printing.
I could have gone a few directions here: keep it true to the original and be completely low poly, but that doesn't look very nice in real life and looks too much like it was folded out of paper; make it hyper realistic and round, but that would look weird and stray too far from the feel of the game and nostalgia; or, find a happy medium between beautifying it and staying reminiscent of the original low poly. I went with the last one. I kept the facets at the extremities but rounded them out to make them look nicer. I replaced the awkward side polygon edge with a nice curved crease, which represents the cheekbone.
I made almost every black part of the head into a hole to maximize air flow. They will all be covered in a black mesh. The only part I didn't do was the loop around the teeth since the teeth needed to attach to something. I'll paint that line black.
It will sit on my head about like this:
Normally there wouldn't be quite so many nubs on the prints I make, but this particular filament works best when the temperature is set very high, which causes stringing across gaps. It's easy enough to remove. In this picture I've broken off as much as I can with my fingers and I'll clean up the rest with a file. It usually pops right off.
I split the model into 13 parts to reduce the requirement for support material. Filling seams is much easier than trying to fix the scarring on the surface from the support.
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