District 9 Assault Rifle Build (TMAX's current run)

PAULH

Well-Known Member
If you're reading this, you've no doubt read TMax's build thread for his AR that lead to his current run. I decided that, rather than write what would essentially be a duplicate of his thread, I'd just document a few bits and pieces as I worked through this project.

On receipt of TMax's stunning AR kit, I've charged straight into building it. For those of you with kits on the way, whether it's the AR or one of the others, be aware, there's lots of sanding and filling to be done to get a great finish. But that's fine; that's what we all expect from a 3D print, and this kit obviously has a lot of parts! The parts are all beautifully printed and the barrel pieces can be done, to a large extent, with a small electric sander. Keep the Dremel locked away though - way too aggressive on the plastic! Otherwise, it's a case of putting aside a lot of time to sand, prime (with high-build primer), sand again, prime again, and so on.

In terms of filling joints and covering blemishes, I found great results using Humbrol Model Filler, and I used Halfords Plastic Filler Primer, and regular grey primer (also Halfords) for a final coat ready for painting. If you're in the UK, those brands will probably mean more to you than if you're elsewhere. Oh, and for joining the main parts together, I used RS Components' Structural Epoxy Adhesive (918-1401).

I wanted to make the weight of this thing proportionate to its size. So, I cut into the mating surfaces of the main parts, leaving enough material around the edge for when I joined the parts together. The supporting structure inside is easily removed with a battery drill.

D9 B.jpg

Then I simply threw in whatever metal parts I had to hand with some adhesive. I added adhesive before, during, and after I added the metal parts so to avoid any annoying rattles on the finished prop.

D9 C.jpg

Moving on, here's where I am as of this afternoon. The next task is to get all of the other parts up to this stage.

D9 G.jpg

There's probably around 30 hours work in this so far.
 
It's looking great! I'm yet to do any props or kits that aren't resin cast - and I know how much prep goes into getting a perfect finish on those. So hats off to you (and anyone) who does printed kits.

I love the idea of using an adhesive set with metal in. What type of adhesive are you using? Would a glue gun speed things up?
 
It's looking great! I'm yet to do any props or kits that aren't resin cast - and I know how much prep goes into getting a perfect finish on those. So hats off to you (and anyone) who does printed kits.

I love the idea of using an adhesive set with metal in. What type of adhesive are you using? Would a glue gun speed things up?


Hi Dreamscape - I've been using an adhesive that comes in those cartridges similar to bathroom silicone. But actually, a hot glue gun sounds a better idea!
 
Hi Dreamscape - I've been using an adhesive that comes in those cartridges similar to bathroom silicone. But actually, a hot glue gun sounds a better idea!

So long as the hot glue doesn't affect the print, i think it will dry quicker than a silicone or similar adhesive.
 
So long as the hot glue doesn't affect the print, i think it will dry quicker than a silicone or similar adhesive.

Hot glue is fine for this sort of thing as it’s just the internal surfaces of the kit and won’t cause any damage. And yes it will dry a lot quicker than a silicon without expanding either which is important. I too might try adding weight like this to my SMG kit. [emoji1360]
 
I was looking at photos of the original prop and noticed a couple of additional details that it was worthwhile to add. The first of these was additional screws on the shoulder stock.


D9 ADD SCREWS.jpg

Then, underneath the hand grip, there appears to be a little more detail. The photos I was looked at were a little hard to determine clearly what was needed so I came up with an approximation of what I could see.

D9 ADD DET 1.jpg

D9 ADD DET 2.jpg

D9 ADD DET3.jpg
 
I was looking at photos of the original prop and noticed a couple of additional details that it was worthwhile to add. The first of these was additional screws on the shoulder stock.


View attachment 821149

Then, underneath the hand grip, there appears to be a little more detail. The photos I was looked at were a little hard to determine clearly what was needed so I came up with an approximation of what I could see.

View attachment 821150

View attachment 821151

View attachment 821152

Good spotting and great work-around! Both these details are already on our SMG kit and will be on future AR kits.

daGD2Hb.jpg
 
Work continues...

I've sprayed the whole thing satin black, with particular focus on the parts that will remain black (which I'll be masking off when I apply the white paint). Later on, part of the weathering process will be to wear away the white or orange paint so that the black shows through either as wear or as scratches..

D9 BLACK.jpg
 
Finished painting the main canister...

D9 AR CAN.jpg

Again, I used paints from Halfords: Volkswagen Brilliant Orange, Rover Stone Grey, and Appliance Gloss White.
 
Some good progress over the weekend.

After painting the whole thing black, I masked off everything that was to remain black and painted it white. Then masked off the white and painted the remainder orange and here's the result. There's a bit work to do on the paint, not least cutting the paint back to give a perfectly smooth finish. I'll probably use Meguiars Ultimate Compound for that.

After a close shave with nearly dropping it, I made a temporary stand to keep it safe. I'll think of something a bit nicer for displaying it permanently when the build is finished. This temporary stand will also serve as the beginnings of a jig for when it's time to fit the 24 small cylinders. I'm envisaging a piece of wood that screws to each side with semi-circular cutouts along the top edge, so that each cylinder is held at the right angle when being glued in place.


D9 PAINT 5.jpg

D9 PAINT 3.jpg

D9 PAINT 2.jpg

D9 PAINT 6.jpg

D9 PAINT1.jpg

Thanks for looking - I'm extremely pleased with it so far.

- - - Updated - - -

And I need to remember that the little angled block underneath the handgrip needs to be painted black
 
Just finished these little guys.

D9 CYL.jpg

I painted them Audi Phantom black. There's silver underneath which will show through when I weather the tips with metal polish. Actually, looking at the original prop pics, I'll be taking most of the black off.
 
I've been a bit sloppy with updates lately, but progress continues...

Here is where I am...

Weathering is done - mainly rubbing with fine emery paper to bring sub-layers of paint through.
Graphics added - did my best to replicate what I could see on the original prop photos (I traced/created the images in Corel Draw, printed them onto removable sticky paper labels, and cut them out to make paint masks.

I'm really going for the all-out grubby and used look!

D9 WEATHER 11.jpg

D9 WEATHER 10.jpg


D9 WEATHER 4.jpg

D9 WEATHER 5.jpg

D9 WEATHER 2.jpg

D9 WEATHER 6.jpg

D9 WEATHER 7.jpg

The next steps will be to seal the whole thing with satin lacquer and then add grime with either acrylics or water-based oils.

I'll fit the little cylinders last. This is because I got such a great metal-like finish with Plastikote 1299 Aluminium and I don't want the lacquer dulling it.

I'm also contemplating using a coloured wood varnish for the alien slime around the cylinders and elsewhere.

Thanks for looking!
 
After sealing the paint with satin lacquer, weathering with burnt umber and black acrylics commenced. I was aiming for an overall look similar to this from the film:

D9 WEATHER P5.jpg

I dabbed on the paint with a small, natural sponge, broadly following the technique I'd seen in Pandas Props' Stormtrooper Armour videos on YouTube, and making sure I pushed it into all the corners and crevices. I found there was a very short window to rub off the right amount with a damp cloth to get the effect I was looking for (to avoid all of it coming off, or none of it coming off). Overall, I'm happy with the way it's taking shape with a combination of previously wearing through the paint with an abrasive, and then applying paint this way. I used an automotive metal polish, to rub back corners and edges to get a more natural look.

D9 WEATHER P1.jpg

D9 WEATHER P2.jpg

D9 WEATHER P3.jpg

D9 WEATHER P4.jpg
 
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