Anakin Starkiller lightsabers family

Inigou

Inigou

Well-Known Member
Hi. Want to share the Starkiller´s family of lightsabers, the jewels of my collection.
Waiting eagerly to receive my new V2 yet.
Luke ROTJ: I built most fo the control box and internals. And reduced the diameter of the emmiter hole with a thin aluminium sheet. Painted using a 2K epoxy black primer for best adhesion.
Luke V2: Painted using the 2K epoxy primer too and used te stencils but weathered the chipping by hand.
OWK TPM: I handmade the washer from an aluminium sheet to exactly match finish and dimmensions.


Hope you like them as much as i do!

_DSC4012.JPG_DSC3992.JPG_DSC4001.JPG_DSC3994.JPG_DSC4009.JPG_DSC3996.JPG_DSC3933.JPG
 
mrwax said:
Those are wonderful! What'd you use for getting the V2 wind-vane color? That's one of the nicest examples of that color I've seen.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
I used vallejo liquid copper paint. First painted/primed black, then added copper and removed areas with a cotton swab, tooth pic and fine brush all soaked with thinner. Then added some thinned black acrylic paint over it. Hard to explain but hopefuly clear enough :)
 
Last edited:
Inigou said:
Thank you!
I used vallejo liquid copper paint. First painted/primed black, then added copper and removed areas with a cotton swab, tooth pic and fine brush all soaked with thinner. Then added some thinned black acrylic paint over it. Hard to explain but hopefuly clear enough :)
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you! I may have to order some of that.

I have a bottle of Tamiya Dark Copper that when I brushed a quick sample i thought would be a good base, but when I airbrushed it on I wasn't nearly as impressed. Turned out way too light (more sparkly tan than copper) and not red enough. Lately I've been experimenting with brushing on many layers of a pretty thin mix of brown, dark copper, red, and black, but it's turned into a sparkly dark brown. It actually doesn't look too bad, but your results are so good that I think I'll just have to have another go at it and concentrate on layering rather than mixing all my colors. If worse comes to worse, i have another stencil for the wind-vane, I can just redo that whole area.

Also I'm jealous of that TPM Obi saber. I'm eagerly awaiting the day Dan decides to revisit that one, maybe a Qui-Gon one. A guy can dream!
 
mrwax said:
Awesome, thank you! I may have to order some of that.

I have a bottle of Tamiya Dark Copper that when I brushed a quick sample i thought would be a good base, but when I airbrushed it on I wasn't nearly as impressed. Turned out way too light (more sparkly tan than copper) and not red enough. Lately I've been experimenting with brushing on many layers of a pretty thin mix of brown, dark copper, red, and black, but it's turned into a sparkly dark brown. It actually doesn't look too bad, but your results are so good that I think I'll just have to have another go at it and concentrate on layering rather than mixing all my colors. If worse comes to worse, i have another stencil for the wind-vane, I can just redo that whole area.

Also I'm jealous of that TPM Obi saber. I'm eagerly awaiting the day Dan decides to revisit that one, maybe a Qui-Gon one. A guy can dream!
Click to expand...

I think the key is not use the same solvent based paint on each layer. My first layer is a primer, 2k epoxy one that holds up even acetone.
The nextlayer, the vallejo copper, is applied with a brush, not an airbrush, for a more uneven finish. I also used stencil brushes for the copper and last layer. To paint and also soaked with thinner (alcohol or acrylic thinner in this particular case)

I think that paint is alcohol based, so when i remove paint from that layer with alcohol, the black base remains intact and the paints dont mix.
You can use for the black base a lacquer, enamel. I think that can hold well the alcohol, if rubbed and weathered carefully.
And then, the last one, acrylic, that can be removed easily even with water with a cotton swab if is not very dry.

You also can use oil paint for the last dark wash. They are really easy to remove if things go wrong and are easy to apply when weathering. The bad part is the drying times that are very long.

Regarding Qui Gon, I want one too! And I also read that Dan is thinking on doing a new run of OWK TPM for the 20th aniversary.
 
Inigou said:
I think the key is not use the same solvent based paint on each layer. My first layer is a primer, 2k epoxy one that holds up even acetone.
The nextlayer, the vallejo copper, is applied with a brush, not an airbrush, for a more uneven finish. I also used stencil brushes for the copper and last layer. To paint and also soaked with thinner (alcohol or acrylic thinner in this particular case)

I think that paint is alcohol based, so when i remove paint from that layer with alcohol, the black base remains intact and the paints dont mix.
You can use for the black base a lacquer, enamel. I think that can hold well the alcohol, if rubbed and weathered carefully.
And then, the last one, acrylic, that can be removed easily even with water with a cotton swab if is not very dry.

You also can use oil paint for the last dark wash. They are really easy to remove if things go wrong and are easy to apply when weathering. The bad part is the drying times that are very long.

Regarding Qui Gon, I want one too! And I also read that Dan is thinking on doing a new run of OWK TPM for the 20th aniversary.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the tips! I'm definitely not in a rush to finish my old V2, it's sitting right next to my brand new V2 still not quite done. I'm going to make sure I'm happy with it, I don't want to look at it and wish I did more. Plus I want to see what halliwax comes up with in the rest of his new V2 tutorial, his old one (plus the instructable and youtube videos from Trent) have been my main reference for finishing techniques.

Dan does have all those fender washers he mentioned in the other thread, so I'm pretty hopeful he'll be putting some delicious prequel sabers.

Would you be able to pick a favorite of those 3 beautiful sabers? I don't know that I could!
 
mrwax said:
I appreciate the tips! I'm definitely not in a rush to finish my old V2, it's sitting right next to my brand new V2 still not quite done. I'm going to make sure I'm happy with it, I don't want to look at it and wish I did more. Plus I want to see what halliwax comes up with in the rest of his new V2 tutorial, his old one (plus the instructable and youtube videos from Trent) have been my main reference for finishing techniques.

Dan does have all those fender washers he mentioned in the other thread, so I'm pretty hopeful he'll be putting some delicious prequel sabers.

Would you be able to pick a favorite of those 3 beautiful sabers? I don't know that I could!
Click to expand...

Luke Hero for the work i invested on the control box and OWK. I dont like the prequels but i love Mcgregor Obi Wan and this saber design, dont know why :) (i know some people hate it)
 
Inigou said:
Luke Hero for the work i invested on the control box and OWK. I dont like the prequels but i love Mcgregor Obi Wan and this saber design, dont know why :) (i know some people hate it)
Click to expand...

Obi Wan TPM is easily the best prequel saber! Awesome collection!
 
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