Blade Runner 2049 Memory Orb Build

I had know clue of the space before to offer any suggestions.. :)

Unfortunately.. now that I -do- the space available... DANG! Thats not a lot! LOL

roughly .78 x 0.59 x 0.59 inches!

I'm surprised you can fit a motor even?!

Is that for everything? or just the motor/servo/stepper portion?



What I have in front of me:

Radio Shack Micro Servo: (not currently a 360 degree one... but could probably be mod'd)
24mm x 20mm roughly (too big)

Radio Shack 5v Stepper Motor (small round type ones)
28mm x 19mm (roughly) (too big again)

I have same VERY VERY tiny micro stepper.. they would fit.. but doubt they would have enough torque to move anything. (they are the size of my finger tip!)

The lipo would be enough...


What is a feather? (Adafruit feather?)

Why two? Could you just use an ESP8266-01 standalone for $2.00 or whatever.?

I have an example I wrote where the esp8266 is a web sever, hosting its own page.. but also set up as a captive portal..

* so you connect to broadcasting SSID (wifi network).. with your phone (or whatever)..
* once connected,, if you open your browser and navigate to any page.. you'll only be served up the page that is hosted on the esp8266 module (that you write/wrote)
* this web page is really nothing but an interface for the 'prop' so you can control/move it around (click on a 'move x' link and it moves the servo..etc)

but you'd still need the stepper driver..
 
That is the space for 1 gear motor. You need 5. yes adafruit feather. You would need 2 motor driver boards as you would need 5 outputs for motors and each only has 4 for dc motors, less for servos. esp8266 would be only 3.3 Volts I guess and you need to get to 5-6 Volts.
 
You dont technically need a 'driver board' for the servos...

but not sure if a micro servo will even fit (although they make TONS of variants).. or have enough torque.

You can regulate the power to whatever you need +3.3v for example)..
but if you are using 1 x +3.7v li-po.. you'll need to step it up for get your voltage for the motors/servos anyways..
 
I will use an Adafruit Powerboost 1000 Charger to charge the lipo and have a 5V 1A output. If the gear motors work that's all I need. Would be cool to have this remote enabled and drive servos but that would be another project for me.
 
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

I tried the Alclad Metal colors.

Polished AL
White AL
Dark AL
Airframe AL
Magnesium
Gold
Foundation: Rustoleum Flat Gray Primer Alclad Gloss Black Base

Much finer superior surfaces compared to the Acrylics. These will work perfectly. Particular the Polished AL is very reflective. Still have to try the molotov liquid chrome and figure the best top sealing coats. The Acrylics would do if you don't have a fume hood or respirator. Alclad sells airbrush cleaner. I got one bottle out of curiosity - it is just super expensive Aceton as it appears.

IMG_1395.JPG
 
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Feels good to start painting. All wet sanded with 400 grid

The end pieces have been painted in acrylics. Montana Primer T2300, Shock Black 00065 and Mouse Grey BLK400-7030
The sections have been primed with Rustoleum Flat gray primer as a foundation for Alclad glossy black and metal lacquers.

IMG_1422.JPGIMG_1424.JPGIMG_1439.JPGIMG_1441-1.jpg
 
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Really looks nice. I read that you will be using a Lipo Battery, where will that be located?
Will the buttons be functional?

Does each gear (5) have its own gear motor attached (direct drive)?

Excellent work up to this point.
Thanks for sharing. :)
 
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Thanks, indeed all will be self contained so the 2200mAh Lipo and charging circuit will sit inside. Yes, 5 gear motors for the 5 wheels, each will be activated by a push button individually. There will also be buttons to change direction, select between two speeds and of course on/off. USB-B port for charging. Assembling my own push buttons, they are little bit taller than I like but it will work. Wiring will be delicate......

This is all done on my small recreational budget and parts I have sitting around, but also could be executed more robustly with more expensive of the shelf parts.
 
Certainly, it is just an upgraded $600 Monoprice Ultimate/Wanhao Duplicator 6. My upgrades (about $200) can be found on thingiverse under the name I use here too and aggregated here: www.thingiverse.com/groups/wanhao-d6-upgrades. Out of the box it was quite bad but after updating this thing is chopping away for over a year flawlessly. Good deal.

I printed this in White/Gunmetal grey PETG from Atomic filaments. 230C, 0.100 mm resolution, 30-50% infill 2 perimeters at 41.7 mm/sec speed. Sliced in Simplify 3D.
 
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Thanks Empiricus.
I know you have done a lot of prep work as well to make the surfaces smooth before paint.
The printer gets you in the ball park but the "hand work" completes the job. :)
 
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