Page 1 of 8 123456 ... LastLast
Subscribe
  1. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:22 PM - Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #1


    This has been long awaited. Below is how I have aged, weathered, and stenciled my Starkiller FX V2.

    A super special shout out to Dan (Anakin Starkiller) Roy (wannawanga.com) Trent (Trooper trent) Scott (Scottjua) and everyone else included in making this project come together. With out you all this wouldn't have been able to come out the way it has, I thank you all!

    INDEX

    Physical Damage

    Chemical Age

    Stenciling
    ITS HERE!

    Paint + Weathering
    coming soon

    Video Tutorials here


    So, I am using a chemical called A14. which is a birchwood casey product. And from what the guy from sculpt nouveau told me, this is NOT aluminum black that we have commonly used before. his best explanation was this a14 is a professional grade, were the Aluminum black is more of a "commercial" or do it at home product. I can attest this works much better then Aluminum black, IF your follow the instructions.

    You will need the following

    SAFETY FIRST!!!
    -Rubber Gloves
    -Eye protection (i like goggles for this)
    -Mask



    Aging material

    -Metal cleaner
    -Sculpt Nouveau A14 (aging chemical)
    -Steel wool 0000
    -Scotch brite pads
    -Torch


    The Process

    So here we go, first I get all the physical damage out of the way. This includes damage marks to the pommel, and denting the emitter. I used the celebration 7 photo of the pommel for the damage reference. and the Pop culture video as reference for the 5 famous emitter dents.



    I then mark the pommel with a sharpie, and use multiple sharp random tools to simulate the same dents. old screw driver, 12p spike nail, a scrap metal hinge, and a old cleaver.



    I bang it all up, then sand it with some 220,300, then 400 paper, and finish with steel wool 0000. the photo below is not with the wool finish but during the sand paper process


    Next came denting of the emitter. this took me a little while, and a few trials to come out with the end result. i first made a jig out of a 2x4 and threaded rod to hold it in place. but the 2x4 was too soft and the emitter would sink into the wood... i then went to the tractor supply store in town and got some washers. believe it or not but all these washers cost me only 1 dollar total. i thought the chick range it up wrong and she went through it all over again and said its right. so thats a plus!

    You can also see the emitter in the back ground, marked with where to hit the dents. I used this photo here to locate the dents





    I stacked the washers so the emitter is protected, i dont want to smash the neck, the metal is so thin i could see that being a disaster... this encapsulates the emitter inside the washers, and now can be put in a vice. IF i had soft jaws for the vice i wouldn't have had to come up with this contraption... if i had soft jaws that would have worked fine i think



    I then lock this in the vise, and get out the big hammer.



    So now in fear of the aluminum cracking when it bends (i have a tendency of doing that when bending aluminum) i gave it some heat.



    And it worked out damn good


    I used a big rubber hammer, but i put the end of the wooden handle on the emitter, then used a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the top of the rubber hammer. the hard wooden handle makes the dents with out damaging the aluminum.




    Another thing I did, which isn't physical damage, but figured i'd share this here because its time to do this step now. but for some strange reason the booster sections machine marks were more prominent then the rest of the parts which were really smooth. So i threw the booster on the lathe and sanded it with 220, 300 then 400. then ran 0000 all over the booster and i think it came out great. i left the clamp section alone to compare the different in machining when it came time to carbonite dip it

    now looking at the pictures you can actually see the difference


    as Scrappy Coco would say "silky smooth..."


    I also added 2 grub screws in the clamp section, this locks the rings to the booster. when doing this just be sure to locate the screws so they are not exposed in the areas of the clamp...

    we put my buddies romans clamp on with roys lever, and i had to get it incredibly tight, so tight i wasn't comfortable closing the lever in fear of snapping it. and the rings were still lose, so i threw 2 grub screws in his as well.

    not the end of the world. we dont plan on FXing these..and this is easily reversible
    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 1:56 AM.
  2. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:22 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #2

    Chemical Aging

    Ok so what I used to chemically age this is a birchwood casey product called a14. it isn't cheap but works amazing if done in the correct order! First you will need to purchase the following, from the first post

    - Metal cleaner
    - Sculpt Nouveau A14

    - Safety goggles
    - Rubber gloves
    - Mask



    I made a carbonite dipping camber out of a 2 dollar cup i got a the dollar store, and a swing set out of some scrap pine, and threaded rod. this swing set will allow me to hang the metal while im timing it. (hanging is a MUST)

    I can not stress enough on how bad this stuff is to breath or get on your skin, PLEASE if your going to order this stuff, WEAR PROTECTION!!!!!! .... that sounded great...


    IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO HANG THE PRODUCT WHILE YOU ARE WAITING THE 5 MINUTES

    THIS IS SERIOUS: You have to hang the pieces because if you place it down on a surface, the acid rolls down, and forms a puddle, this puddle eats the bottom of the aluminum. it pits and destroys it, if left long enough it will literally EAT the aluminum! ask how i know... i've been experimenting with this stuff and learned the hard way. DONT be lazy, and set up all these tools & jigs and you won't have to worry about it.




    this chemical is expensive, and you dont want to spill it, so i screwed this cup to this piece of plywood.



    Now that we got the carbonite dipping chamber and swing set its time to break out the chemicals.



    Here it is, A14. the guy i talked to on the phone explained to me for the best result to mix this 3:1 (75% A14 25% Water) this is a VERY important part of the process because if you dont mix it to this equation the A14 is too strong. and when you put on the second coat, it pulls off the first coat. So I did what the man said and it worked out flawless.

    So it is VERY IMPORTANT That the A14 is mixed 3:1 !!!! measure it correctly dont guess... this cup cost me 1 buck, well worth it

    now that the A14 is mixed correctly, its time to break out the cleaner.




    I was told to spray the cleaner onto the aluminum until it has a milky film on it. then use a clean rag and wipe clean. be sure to remove all of the cleaner before doing anything else



    the next trick is heat. Aaron from solos hold explained this. you dont want the aluminum scorching hot, otherwise the a14 isn't going to adhere to it and just vaporize. you dont want acid bubbling.... all i do with the heat is use it to push the moisture out of the product. you can actually see the shadow of moisture move with the flame. My dad taught me this trick when painting automotive parts, really works well.

    again, you dont want the parts wicked hot, just move the flame lightly over the product and get ready for the next step.

    UPDATE: 5/18/18 Before we go any further i had to clean out all the threads in my booster & pommel to get my knob, set screw, and mystery chunk back installed... this wasn't the end of the world but took me forever to do... I HIGHLY encourage you to run by your local hardware store and pick up these 3 bolts to screw into the holes, so the acid won't get inside and make you have to clean them.

    x1 M6 - 1.00 bolt

    x1 M5 - 80 bolt

    x1 M4 - .70 Bolt

    I grabbed these at lowes, and they worked fine. when dipping the rest of the V2's ive done i never had to clean them if i had these bolts installed when dipping




    CARBONITE DIPPING INSTRUCTIONS

    Now this is where we need to pay very close attention, we cleaned the product, we heated the product now we dip the product. I put the product on a wire and dip it into the A14. I leave it submerged for 5 seconds, then pull it out and hang it on the swing set. I let it sit there for 5 minutes. this is Soak 1 (your going to do multiple soaks on different parts so get ready to remember this)



    after 5 minutes, it should have blue or green bubbles on it, and smells horrible. no im not talking about that, im talking about the A14 soaked booster! :P

    once that 5 minute buzzer sounds, dip it in some distilled water. and dry with a rag. DO NOT USE this same rag with the metal cleaner. keep dirty rags with dirty rags, and clean rags with clean rags! dont mix!



    looks like hell, but with some 0000 steel wool remove it all, it should look like you did nothing at all on the first soak.

    here you can see the sanding marks on my booster from putting it in the lathe, and the factory machine marks on the clamp section. i highly recommend sanding the booster, noticed the next couple of pictures on my clamp section and how bad the machine marks stand out. so sanding the booster is a must to me

    Now repeat the process, you DO NOT have to clean or heat the metal again. i brush this part off with the dirty rag, and then dip it again. I do the same process, i let it hang on the swing set for 5 minutes, then dunk it in the water, and hit it with steel wool.

    I have found for me and my friend to get the color of our boosters below, it took us 4 carbonite dips with the A14 mixed at 75% A14 25% water.


    So the process is pretty straight forward.

    1: Clean product with metal cleaner
    2: Wipe totally clean
    3: Heat the product very lightly
    4: Dip product in A14 for 3 seconds
    5: Let hang on swing for 5 minutes
    6: Dip in water, dry clean
    7: Remove all blackness with 0000 Steel Wool

    repeat 4-7 until you get the desired patina

    the pommel is the hardest part to do. only because of all the cubes, my goal is to match the pommel cubes to the booster. I did the same process, clean, heat, soak for 5 minutes, clean with 0000 steel wool. only thing is it takes forever to clean the pommel cubes...

    realistically the rings, emitter, and booster takes 5 minutes to soak, and roughly 5 minutes to clean off and then start a re-soak. when doing the pommel it takes me about 20-30 minutes to clean it... it takes forever!
    YOU ARE BEST TO SOAK 1 PART AT A TIME


    It is best to soak 1 part at a time. in the video below i have multiple pieces hanging, but there is 2 of us cleaning the parts at the same time. the longer this stuff dries the harder it is to remove. IT CAN BE REMOVED, it just takes a lot more steel wool to come off. Im just telling you to do 1 part at a time to save you materials, we used a whole bag of steel wool today for 2 sabers... do yourself a favor and soak 1 at a time... how many times have i said this now? yes 1 at a time!! you will thank me!



    the first 2 soaks i soak the entire thing. after the first 2 soaks, i only dip to cover the cubes. the reason for this is, im going to polish the end of the pommel, and the space between the booster and pommel cubes. you can dip it completely but your just wasting your own time, and steel wool on cleaning the upper part. so save yourself some time and materials



    To get to this level of patina above (left) we did the following

    -Emitter 2 soaks @ 5 minutes
    -Rings 2 soaks @ 5 minutes
    -Booster 4 soaks @ 5 minutes
    -Pommel 4 soaks @ 5 minutes


    SEALING
    - So, Sculpt Nouveau also has a sealing spray. i bought that and used it on the bare metal parts of my Creepy uncle. I will NOT use this spray on the V2. the sealer is a clear matte Lacquer base, and the paint i use for my V2's is a enamel base, the 2 dont like each other. and i dont want to attempt to see what would happen when mixing the two... even if the lacquer is put on first, i dont trust it....

    once the stencils, and weathering is done, i will spray this entire thing with a matte clear enamel finish. that should protect it.

    as for this finish wearing off, ive handled my V2 a lot, my buddy was playing with his all after noon and we just aged his today, and nothing happened. so im not afraid of the anything happening to the finish until i get the stencils and paint done. the key part is cleaning the metal, and heating. that gives that first base coat bite. once you do that, its really easy

    That pretty much concludes the Chemical Aging Process. I am now waiting on trents stencils to do a application tutorial of those, then i will do a weathering to the paint, and a dust application. be on the look out soon!!

    thanks everyone for the positive support through out this journey, i greatly appreciate it and love you all!

    here is a quick little video of what we did today, showing the process. I dont go into much detail in the video, and you should follow all the instructions here first instead of skipping it and only watching the video. and the most important ting BE SAFE!!!!!



    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 5:50 PM.
  3. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:23 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #3

    Please if you have only watched my youtube videos, dont apply the stencils without reading this entire tutorial PLEASE!!


    Before you read this.. Trent has a lot of time invested in this project. I've been in touch with him for a few months as he's been analyzing each and every speck... and im serious each and every little speck.... He's showed me whats involved in doing this and if it wasn't for him we would be stuck with the tooth paste trick as our only option! So I personally thank you Trent for taking the time out of your busy life, and doing this for all of us. For the price of these stencils, please have the respect and just purchase a set before copying these, Thank you...



    STENCIL TUTORIAL

    THEY ARE HERE!!!

    First off we need to give credit where credit is due. If it wasn't for trent we now wouldn't be able to have these killer looking V2's. Trent kept me up to date with his process, showing me what exactly is involved in making these stencils happen. and let me tell you... this is no easy task, with A LOT of trial and error. to be honest im a pretty determined person, and seeing all the trial in error involved in finally getting it to match what we see on screen.. i know i could never do it.

    Dont have the tools, or knowledge to even begin. So thank you very much trent, for spending these countless hours, and trouble shooting to make this work. I applied these stencils today, and i have never seen anything like this in my life... totally out of this world.. i would have never thought someone could do this... out standing

    So lets get this tutorial rolling!!
    PREP WORK

    So, we want these stencils to stick, and stick good. with all the chemicals, or dishwashing methods we have used. lets double check and make sure this baby is clean. a simple rub down with acetone works fine. i have a thing for simple green, i use that on all my bicycles during their weekly cleaning, and always had good luck with them. lightly wash it down, and dry it.

    you should always wash you hands at this time, doesnt make sense to have dirty hands while your saber is clean? cross contamination right?!

    i dry with some rags, or old towel. and then with my torch give it a light touch over. I AM NOT HEATING THE METAL to the point i cant hold it... im just lightly touching it over, chasing the moisture out of the metal.


    FIRST: i used these tools, i also used a popsicle stick to press down on the tape to apply the stencils, but i dont have them in the picture. so a few of those would be great



    SECOND: TAKE PICTURES OF YOUR STENCILS FOR REFERENCE
    then once you are done kindly delete them. we dont want them getting into the wrong hands

    Because Trents first generation stencils were ripped off, i edited some of the real close up photos. sorry guys, but this is the world we live in...

    These stencils are like the first generation, where we "weed" out the brown, apply some blue painters tape. and then apply to the saber, remove the blue tape and the stencil remains on the saber. so trents instructions begins with #1 so we will start there.

    i cut the section i want out, and begin weeding



    Another cool little easter egg Trent hid in these stencils was this black dot, that orientates where the cone knob is!


    once all the brown is removed, weeding is complete. now i remove the rest of the sticker, revealing the actual weathering pattern.



    next i apply blue painters tape. I like the 3M stuff, its expensive, but it makes it easy doing the radius on top of the grenade section, and wind vane. stiffer tape isn't going to work very well. i have had great success with this stuff

    **Trent Tip: See above how i have my blue tape cut straight with the stencil? it is FAR easier to leave 1/4" of so extra as a "tail". if you use this blue tape you can see the Red start/stop line, you can always fold the blue tape back to that RED line. this now acts like a pull string, and makes it far easier when it comes to matching the red lines together. Be sure to watch Trent's Tips and Tricks video for a visual explanation

    the picture above you can see the straight edge, cut along the bottom end of the stencil. this will make it easier lining it up on the booster. when applying the blue tape, you can simply put the edge of the blue tape on the bottom edge of the stencil. saves you from having to cut it

    now with the stencil trimmed, we line the edge of the stencil half way on the set screw. like in trents instructions

    DO NOT PRESS DOWN HARD ON THE STENCILS




    You dont want to press down hard on the stencils right now, there are a lot of small pieces in this stencil. (Islands) if you press down hard now, and you have to re align it, when you peel it back the islands will be tough to keep stuck to the blue tape. lightly apply the stencil, make sure your on track and going where it needs to be.

    now with the straight edge of the red line pervious stuck down, slowly pull that blue tape up, and i mean slowly. making sure the stencil is stuck to the saber. we peel back the blue tape now to help line up the end of the stencil.


    ** Trent Tip: See what i mean? if you saw my video where i was putting the stencils on ethan's V2 i was struggling with pulling the tape back at this point. if i had my extra length (tail) it would have been far easier.
    perfect fit!! GOD bless you Trent!!

    Now we need to remove the tape, i actually love this part and its my favorite!! ever so slowly pull the tape off, BUT we have to pull it at like a 90* angle, like this


    We pull them very slowly because the islands are so small they tend to stay stuck on the blue tape, this is easy... once you start seeing a piece not sticking, grab that pin, tweezers or sewing needle and pick it down


    and once you slowly remove, and check everything....

    TADA!!!


    See simple!! a lot of people seam stressed about this application, it is very easy. as long as you follow instructions, use the right tools, and STAY CALM!!! patience is the key here. I stenciled this whole saber tonight, in a little over 5 hours. i probably could have done this much faster, but i can proudly say i didnt lose 1 island!

    All the other stencils are applied the same way.

    With #2 we need to align the red lines. so i used a straight edge and made a pencil mark where to start #2.


    back to weeding...


    once the weeding is down, apply blue tape, cut to fit, then line the Red line up with the pencil mark and apply! just like step 1. step 1 and 2 are easy. 3 is where we need to become inventive with shapes..



    so we weed it, then i cut the inside out, and applied my blue tape.


    with it flipped over i cut the remaining blue tape out, THEN cut the outer edge of #3, so we now have a horseshoe shape

    ** Trent Tip: See the extra length of blue tape on the stencil?! makes life a whole lot easier!

    i cut the blue tape off at the red lines, and used a straight edge on the V2 from my red line on #2 to get my location for #3. marked with a pencil, and thats where we stick number 3!!


    see how now important it is to take you time and cut the stencil as close as you can to the edge? this makes lining the edge of the stencil up on this radius easier. if you stayed on the edge correctly, the 2 red lines should match without a problem


    this really freak'n amazes me... Trent ive said this million times, i dont know how you did this man... to make this design match the radius and curve.. unbelievable buddy


    we are going to move onto number 4 now. wait this doesnt look right does it!? Dont mess up the weeding!!, we still remove all the brown! this is a crazy stencil because most of the brown is the stencil! lol, like all the others. weed out the brown, cut the stencil out, cover in blue tape, cut the blue tape on the edge of the stencil, line the red line up with the red line of 3, and apply!! this one has some islands on it so be extra slow at peeling!


    cutting the stencil to fit, this is a tight squeeze, extra close on these cuts


    cover in the tape, and cut the stencil out


    when applied, she looks great, a couple of spots


    Moving on to Number 5. I personally think this one is the toughest... going into this i figured the emitter (number 11) was going to be a nightmare. but in all honesty 11 wasn't bad at all. Number 5 you have a very thin edge, its a beveled edge on a curve

    like all the others, rough cut out the stencil, weed it. then cover in blue tape



    this one was so tedious to apply i hand no extra hands to take a picture. but its applied that same as all the others, refer to Number 3 because its basically the same concept of a beveled edge on a curve. damn, compound angles!

    Number 6 & 7 are very straight forward just like the others, same process. here I am sticking 7, you can see the red line is lined up all the way

    THIS IS WHERE THINGS CHANGE!!!!


    Ok so far we have been going in order 1,2,3,4,5,6 & 7

    But NOW since the emitter can spin we want to make sure the emitter stencils are lined up properly with the set screws. So we are going to apply the stencils in the following order

    EMITTER STENCIL ORDER
    11, 10, 9, 8


    thats right gang, here comes the emitter!! Number 11 first! this is probably the most critical part because we want this to all be alined when done, so we want to double check EVERYTHING!! so Trent told me a SUPER easy way on applying this stencil.. but we have to follow this to the T.

    we get the number 11 stencils, rough cut it, and weed it... this weed is probably the worst. TAKE YOUR TIME! seriously what the hell is the rush?! if it doesnt get done today, whats the big deal. relax... calm down. breath.. just breath.... reach out... tell me what you weed!?


    One more important thing!!

    again if you have dented your emitter, and used my emitter template, BE SURE to have the large dent in this location!! (5 famous dents, only 1 is real deep, and this is the one ) its easier to notch the nipple plug.. and install it 180 with the set screws like the picture below. notching the nipple plug, also will make lining up the stencil much easier in the future.

    again this is a beautiful stencil, but i edited it to fight against those copycats


    all weeded


    now heres the Trent trick... we are going to cut the red line, cut right down it, this will make it so much easier applying it over the nipple.... you know me, dont want to aggravate that nipple when applying this stencil...



    here is part 2 of the Trent trick, see my blue tape? i have 2 pieces, it makes it less stressful on all those little islands using this 2 piece tape trick. when removing its so much easier.

    You need to line the arrow up with the screw in the nipple... oh boy here we go again... Since Trent supplied 2 of the same exact emitter stencils for the FX plate. Use the extra emitter stencil (stencil 11) to locate the red arrow, and line that up with the nipple screw

    this is also a tricky part to the emitter, but take your time and it will work out..


    we cut the red line on the stencil, this red line in the picture above shows what 2 parts of the stencil need to line back up when applying. so when we are peeling the blue tape back, we are going to go EXTRA slow... and i mean geriatrics slow!! when we get to the red line part we need to make sure they match perfectly

    WHAM BAM! SHA LA LA LA!



    im telling you guys, this isn't overwhelming. and this isn't impossible... when i first saw the emitter i said no way in hell am i going to get these islands to stay... with patience, and time, look theres the proof. you can do this too!

    so now that 11 is done we do #10!

    we are working backwards now, so we will line up 10 with the red line on 11. 10 only has 1 red line, so dont think your missing anything


    and then number 9 and 8, these are fairly easy. just be sure to line up those red lines!!


    thats it! congratulations!! you have successfully completed Trooper Trents Generation 2 Stencil kit!! beautiful aren't they! special shout out to Trent for helping the community out on this one! with out him this wouldn't have happened, and i am eternally grateful! thanks buddy!!





    High rez link
    TRENT'S TIPS AND TRICK VIDEO!!
    This is a must watch!!

    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 5:38 PM.
  4. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:23 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #4

    saved for paint
    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 9:40 AM.
  5. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:24 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #5

    Mods please allow me to post here to save this post location, to keep this organized

    Only 1 more post after this I promise


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 9:39 AM.
  6. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:24 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #6

    Last edited by halliwax; 1 Week Ago at 9:40 AM.
  7. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2011
    From
    Buffalo, New York, United States
    Messages
    4,690
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 6:30 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #7

    excellent tutorial! the heat and tool handle are really good tips... doing this asap!
  8. RPF Premium Member Kylash's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2002
    From
    Madison, WI
    Messages
    4,807
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 7:08 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #8

    So when you banged up the emitter, you didn’t have any problems with a gap being created between where the emitter plate screws onto the emitter body? Or the small set screw holes getting ripped out? I am mostly afraid of that because the area in that plate where those screw in is so thin.
  9. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 7:09 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #9

    Kylash said: View Post
    So when you banged up the emitter, you didnít have any problems with a gap being created between where the emitter plate screws onto the emitter body? Or the small set screw holes getting ripped out? I am mostly afraid of that because the area in that plate where those screw in is so thin.
    Nope it worked flawlessly, we should have recorded it. I didnít hit the hammer hard at all, with the heat it bends VERY VERY easy


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Iron Heart RPF Premium Member Sundowner's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    From
    Midwest
    Messages
    7,302
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 8:38 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #10

    This is awesome. Thanks Halliwax!
  11. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 8:39 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #11

    Sundowner said: View Post
    This is awesome. Thanks Halliwax!
    No problem buddy, just uploaded a video. Iím all screwed up in the video though... canít talk right today.

    Still tweaking things as we speak


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. RPF Premium Member Morannon's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2017
    From
    Canada
    Messages
    38
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 9:29 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #12

    Awesome tutorial. A14 is what I was planning on using but I had no clue about the water ratio. Excited to try this.
  13. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 9:44 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #13

    Morannon said: View Post
    Awesome tutorial. A14 is what I was planning on using but I had no clue about the water ratio. Excited to try this.
    That ratio has proven itself to me! Be sure to wear goggles, gloves and mask! This is some nasty stuff.

    Turns my stomach when around it, it started down pouring today so we moved everything inside my shed. Put a fan in the window and it still stunk..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Brodie53's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2017
    Messages
    8
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 9:52 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #14

    The collaboration by all on this project run has been awesome, including this tutorial. Thanks for putting this together. Can't wait to give it a go.
  15. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 9:56 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #15

    Brodie53 said: View Post
    The collaboration by all on this project run has been awesome, including this tutorial. Thanks for putting this together. Can't wait to give it a go.
    Your very welcome, if you have any questions feel free to ask! Best of luck, and be safe!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. RPF Premium Member Dann's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2002
    From
    Atlanta, GA
    Messages
    2,022
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 29, 2018, 11:09 PM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #16

    Nice work, man!!

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
  17. MakBzh's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2016
    From
    Le Havre, France
    Messages
    160
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 1:39 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #17

    Great as always !

    Jump in advance for the next steps
  18. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:07 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #18

    Dann said: View Post
    Nice work, man!!

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    Thanks dann I really like how it turned out. Canít wait to get some paint and stencils on it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:08 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #19

    MakBzh said: View Post
    Great as always !

    Jump in advance for the next steps
    Thanks for the positive support, I really appreciate it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Kylo1's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2016
    From
    UK
    Messages
    474
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:34 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #20

    Superb tutorial as always Halliwax
  21. MakBzh's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2016
    From
    Le Havre, France
    Messages
    160
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:45 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #21

    I've start the sourcing for all the stuff needed, especially chemicals products... and unfortunatly sculpt nouveau doesn't ship to France ... -_-'

    Will need to find an another seller.
  22. RPF Premium Member OdiWan72's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2000
    From
    Cologne, Germany
    Messages
    5,191
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:48 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #22

    This tutorial is awesome...many thanks!

    Once I will tackle my new (and hopefully final) V2, I will try to pay attention to all your tips and tricks.

    The only thing Iīll probably do different is NOT adding all the physical damage to the saber.
    I personally prefer the look of a prop "as seen on screen" and not as it is now. Thatīs a BIG issue for all of us prop-builders, since many reference pictures are taken -decades- AFTER filming and show details, which are not present on the pop at the actual time of filming.

    In the end it all depends on what YOU want a prop to look like/ what character you want to give it...my personal stuff will be an amalgation of details most of the times.

    Keep the pics/ posts coming halliwax, it is going to be EPIC!
  23. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:49 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #23

    MakBzh said: View Post
    I've start the sourcing for all the stuff needed, especially chemicals products... and unfortunatly sculpt nouveau doesn't ship to France ... -_-'

    Will need to find an another seller.
    There was another guy on here that used black leather dye.

    It worked out pretty good for him, when we talked I feared they wouldnít ship over seas because they donít ship liquids by air.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
    Member Since
    Dec 2013
    From
    Fairhaven, MA
    Messages
    10,808
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 6:52 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #24

    OdiWan72 said: View Post
    This tutorial is awesome...many thanks!

    Once I will tackle my new (and hopefully final) V2, I will try to pay attention to all your tips and tricks.

    The only thing Iīll probably do different is NOT adding all the physical damage to the saber.
    I personally prefer the look of a prop "as seen on screen" and not as it is now. Thatīs a BIG issue for all of us prop-builders, since many reference pictures are taken -decades- AFTER filming and show details, which are not present on the pop at the actual time of filming.

    In the end it all depends on what YOU want a prop to look like/ what character you want to give it...my personal stuff will be an amalgation of details most of the times.

    Keep the pics/ posts coming halliwax, it is going to be EPIC!
    Thanks for the kind words! I know what you mean about the physical damage. I couldnít bring myself to damage my first V2 from dans first run. I did the pommel and threw it down my driveway a few times, but I just couldnít bring myself to dent the emitter

    This time around I said ďwhat the hellĒ and just did it lol

    I canít vouch for the pommel being screwed up in RoTJ. But you can see the emitter all screwed up in the emperors hand, and when Luke walks the catwalk you can see it really good all dented up

    I canít wait to get paint on this, dying to see the rings, I think that really makes the saber pop


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. RPF Premium Member roygilsing's Avatar
    Member Since
    Mar 2014
    From
    Rotterdam, the Netherlands
    Messages
    1,035
    3 Weeks Ago  Apr 30, 2018, 7:19 AM - Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial #25

    Thanks Danny!! Great tutorial. Especially the heating before the hammering of the emitter is a good tip. For the chemical aging I will be using the caustic soda, which is a dangerous process as well!

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 104
    Last Post: Oct 25, 2016, 10:53 PM
  2. Replies: 23
    Last Post: Nov 27, 2011, 5:19 PM