Unused Voyager Tricorder build... Tis FINISHED!<<< Or is it!?

Sorry for the lack of updates this week, I've been waiting for flexible super glue to arrive so u could fix and try something a little different with the io lines in the hinges, but the eBay seller never delivered. I went to town today and picked some up so hopefully some more info soon on that front...

But I wanted to ask for opinions.
I know a couple of people have shown interest in buying a finished prop, but I've been debating in my head how much to charge and how best to go about it.

Theoretically once I've made my design changes to the pcb and internal layout of the tricorder I could build one in roughly 2 weeks. Maybe 3.

I have always decided that when I accept an order I will take a deposit to cover material costs (£50 sounds about right) but the final some to pay when it's complete has been a real internal debate.

I've got to take into account all the time and effort it takes to build it, as well as the time I've already put into rnding this far.

I've seen that HM sell mark ix for 1500 dollars, don't worry I'm not going to charge that much. But I was thinking around the £600 which is roughly $800, maybe even less given how crap the pound is heh...

What do you think?

For the amount of work involved that seems fair. I once paid about $1000 for a Mark X build fifteen years ago. Now, whether people will pay that for a concept tricorder build is a different question.

Yeah I think I spent about 800 quid on my mark x 15 years ago... Scary

Considering the amount of work and materials you've invested so far, I think it's a fair price. Not that I could ever afford to spend that kind of money. (says the guy who dropped 80 eur on a Playmates TNG tricorder)

The amount and complexity of the electronics alone makes it an expensive prop. Then there is the actual casing. If you add "Development Cost" and labor I think $800.00 is probably the bear minimum. If you look at what props go for in the Junkyard it's not a crazy price for something that complex....

That being said, I don't now how many people will pay (what it's obviously worth) for a concept piece that has never shown up on any shows or movies. I'm sure there are some collectors that would love to have something so unique... and there will be some with the money... the real question is how many? If you just want to sell a few to recoup some of your cost you'll be fine, but if you want to do a large run I don't think the market is there.

That's just my opinion. I've noticed that lots of people express interest, but when you start talking price there is a lot of "Sticker Shock". Some people don't understand the difference between a $20.00 mass produced toy and the amazing and complex work that goes into a prop like this.

Whatever you do good luck, this is an amazing project! The work is first rate.

Thanks, yeah one of the things is trying to balance what people would pay with what its worth in terms of work... With what you said I might bump the price up a little... maybe £650-750 ($850-985 according to XE.com), truth be told ill be happy if i sell 2... Then it would be worth all the work Just knowing some people might appreciate it all.

But yes then theres the whole concept prop that was never actually used.

What I might do as well is have a couple of different options... Like one option with no capasative buttons, and no LCD (static decal with leds flashing behind) Or even a static unlit piece... Still 3d printed and painted and what not... Just a static display piece.

There is also the issue with the IO over the hinges. Its fragile. No matter what fix I do if something catches inside and stops the smooth push in of the flex cable, the shim will bend and then snap. Its a thing who ever buys it needs to have in mind. To be gentle with it. You cant whip it open like a communicator. A controlled opening should be fine... Though some of this might be fixed on the v2 model. As currently everything im doing is a retro fit fix on a prop for the most part is put together... learning and taking notes what to change as i go about working on this first one.

For instance the latest revision to sort out the flex, is to give a safe enveloped space to move in, im currently just trying to squash something in. But when i make the revisions to the cad design that enveloped space will be part of the print...

Im also considering reverse engineering the nextion display, just so i can redesign its PCB to incorporate my electronics on it This would save A HUGE mount of space and should be pretty easy to do. All i need to do is get a program flash dump off my nextion mcu, (stm32f103) and place it into a new micro controller, cloning it. But in fairness legally speaking that might be a tinsy bit grey. IE IP stuff... But nextion is a Chinese company that quite frankly is dodgy as hell with some very questionable practices of there own. So it might balance out

There is going to be 1 other difference on the V2 the opening door on the back to get inside. Im going to make it a bit bigger so its easier to work and maintain the innards.

Given the fragility of the flex on the hinge, I might also work out a modular system where if a person IO line on the hinge did break, it could be something that might be swapped out and fixed. i might make it so the hinges could literally be plugged into the case.

Lots more work and things to think about

Though also this week im installing a log burner stove in our old fireplace... So busy week (today i removed the old fire place and had an annoying surprise might post a link here once i upload photos to imgur)

https://imgur.com/gallery/tgdS9at

Right I promised an update this week... So "why no update" update!

This hinge io problem I've been having has been a constant pain. I even brought some grandfather clock sprung steel to try as a flex reinforcer. Still wasn't strong enough.... So ordered some thicker steel... Trouble is I'm now no longer going to use it. As I've started some tests with 3d printed hinges. To see if theyre strong enough.... And they appear to be.

So why am I looking at 3d printed hinges? Well because I can then design all aspects... Including running wire inside the hinge.

30 or 32 awg wire is thin enough and can carry enough current... To fit through the centre of the hinge hoops. I just need to fit an entry and exit point and work out a way to keep the pin inside without anything breaking...

So this is another new idea. Doing away with the brass hinge all together...

update sort of... To show its not all words...

Ive managed to cad up a working ABS hinge barely larger than the brass hinges used... This means I have put in a channel for wires to run inside the hinge...

With 30 AWG wire I should be able to get 6 wires per hinge. I still need to figure out how best to get power through them. I might have to sacrifice something. Not sure what yet.

So, this should fix all my problems before. I just hope that the wire doesnt fatigue from opening and closing near 180'

At 30 AWG and a cable length of around 1.5-2 inches, and with the wire having an amp rating of around 0.5-0.8 amps And my tricorder pulling roughly 0.3a I should be ok to run power on these wires too and not just IO.

Here are a couple of pictures showing the hinge with some of the hookup wire ive been using so far. I think its 26 awg. not 100% sure.

Ive ordered some 30awg wire... but coming from china so might take a couple of weeks...

I love when people go off the beaten path. This is an amazing looking prop so far!

Bit long awaited update.......

Basically I have finally got the hinges sorted. They are install and wired up and appear to be working flawlessly..

I do have one led thatas stuck on in the main body but I think ive localised whats causing that. Ill investigate a bit later and fix that...

Ive even installed the reed switch to detect when its opened and closed. In this case because the reed is tiny and isnt rated for a lot of current im using it to trigger a mosfet, this then switches on the main power.


Whats left?

Well theres still few wires dangling, I need to wire up the touch sensor in the door. Then finish tiding up the wires there. But I do have one little issue. Im not sure how to make the battery removable. I have designed for it to slot through the name plate but its really snug in there, and im not sure how to make it remove and keep the wires in place... I might have to consider sealing it in. (i dont really want to do that tbh)

I also need to clean up the abs slurry filler around the hinges. I can file those flat, then put a plate over the door... After that a small skin of fine filler over most of the body and sand smooth, then ready to paint and stick on the decals.

Theres not really a lot left to do. The rest is just software.

Oh and install the sound module...

Now one little bit of mixed news... I might have finally found some work. Its likely a short term contract thing for only the next few months but its going to be keeping me very busy. Im not sure how much time im going to have to finish this... i will finish it just might be a little later...

Though if I do finish it sooner and people still want to buy one, Ill have to ask that people PM me so i can put them on a mailing list to inform them when they can order one.

Ill probably contact them directly via email and work with the first come first served basis as I mentioned before.

Annoyingly at this stage I slightly doubt ill be able to have any to post before Christmas... It might be possible to get one done but two is almost certainly out the question.

Anyway I hope you like the update.

That is so awesome!!! The electronics is so impressive. Good look on your new job!

Some really nice work on the Tricorder build.

I know what it takes to get all that "stuff" crammed into a small area and it looks like you have it pretty well full

Some time ago I modified a Playmates Tricorder Toy using a bunch of LEDs and body changes, but after it was done,
I would never do another.

More recently, I got a 3D printer and now that may change my original way of thinking of "not doing" another Tricorder build again.
3D printing makes things a whole lot simpler.

Just wondering, how many conductors (wires) do you have running from the main body to the door?

Good job on this.

I wish I new a bit more about graphics, video players and animation technics.

Keep up the good work.

propmaster2000

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I have i think 8 or 10 IOs for various data... and 3 power lines the 3v from battery which is 3 headphone cables windinds... 5v return for lighting thats 2 windings and ground which is 3 windings. Truth be told now though i think i could have got away using 2 on all power lines

I was just thinking out loud about your hinge - power and data lines running from the main body to the door.

Since you are the designer / builder and have the freedom to design the body anyway you wish, I wonder if
using a hinge that goes the full way across the body and use the center portion to run your wires through?

The pivoting hinged portion would still be on the ends, but maybe the center could have the look of a hinge with a slot
3D printed through the middle in order to fish the wire through.

It could be held in place by the pins on both ends, but still be free to pivot on it's own.
The wire would be somewhat hidden from view be the center tube.



.

That sure would make for a stronger hinge, but I wanted it to still look like the hinges used...

In any case this seems to be working.

Ahhh,

I thought since you have changed the look of the original Tricorder so much, a better hinge would be just another
change.

In barely changed the look from concept... Just a few little things to make it worl

MangyDog said:

In barely changed the look from concept... Just a few little things to make it worl

Click to expand...

If this had ever been used in the show, it's a good bet that they would have changed/modified the design a lot more than you have. So I think there's a fair argument to be made that you can change the hinge much more than you already did, if it makes for a sturdier design.

(I suspect that Janeway's tricorder in Endgame was actually based on this art; if so they did make a ton of changes from concept to reality.)

Well so far the hinge ive made seems to do a good job... though tbh ive ran into a new problem, ive bricked the arduino chip... orderd some programmer to try and see if i can unbrick it.