Unused Voyager Tricorder build... Tis FINISHED!<<< Or is it!?
- Thread starter MangyDog
- Start date
That's not messy. That's creative chaos.
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Damn. That looks amazing.
just found another new issue im facing, I have an all in one charger and boost module to power the thing from the lipo battery. The battery outputs 3.7 volts but the project runs on 5v. So the module boosts to 5v out while allowing to be recharged off a usb connector.
However im having some issues. I got two different models of module. 5 each. But one model is consistently over volting to 6v.
The other model, 1 module takes 2 seconds to start up and gives a consistent good 5v. The others in the pack though are instantly starting but either under or over volting. :/
Not fun, might have to buy some more from another supplier and hope they work.
However im having some issues. I got two different models of module. 5 each. But one model is consistently over volting to 6v.
The other model, 1 module takes 2 seconds to start up and gives a consistent good 5v. The others in the pack though are instantly starting but either under or over volting. :/
Not fun, might have to buy some more from another supplier and hope they work.
its not a pot base done, but here are two I have tried...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...st-Converter-LED-Display-USB/32731469212.html
These ones no longer under volt... its part of its startup i think. Anyway, these take roughly 2 seconds to actually start providing current from the battery to the tricorder...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pc...html?spm=2114.11010108.01008.6.650c649b7WhfCy
These ones instantly start up but are giving me 6v. While the basic choice options say 6 7 11 12 and what not... In the details of the description 5v was also mentioned And i asked for a 5v module. Obviously they must have fobbed me off with a 6v module.
Im worried 6v might damage some of the hardware, and i rather not use a resistor just to bring it back down to 5v. i would prefer to find what resistor on teh board controls the voltage selected and swap it for a more correct resistor for 5v... :/
Can you recommend any units?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...st-Converter-LED-Display-USB/32731469212.html
These ones no longer under volt... its part of its startup i think. Anyway, these take roughly 2 seconds to actually start providing current from the battery to the tricorder...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pc...html?spm=2114.11010108.01008.6.650c649b7WhfCy
These ones instantly start up but are giving me 6v. While the basic choice options say 6 7 11 12 and what not... In the details of the description 5v was also mentioned And i asked for a 5v module. Obviously they must have fobbed me off with a 6v module.
Im worried 6v might damage some of the hardware, and i rather not use a resistor just to bring it back down to 5v. i would prefer to find what resistor on teh board controls the voltage selected and swap it for a more correct resistor for 5v... :/
Can you recommend any units?
teslabe
Sr Member
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...st-Converter-LED-Display-USB/32731469212.html
First, I don't see any switching circuitry for disconnecting the load while charging the battery, I can't believe the board can do both simultaneously, the combined load of the battery and the prop may be too much and the two second delay could be the chip going into current limit...
I looked at other listing for this board and I think the 5 volt claim is a typo, the board could probably output 5 volts but you would have to figure out the right "set resistor" for the chip.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pc...html?spm=2114.11010108.01008.6.650c649b7WhfCy
I use separate boost regulators and chargers, just don't trust these combo boards. Depending on how much room and how much current I need I will choose these if I have the room.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-DC-DC-2...495341?hash=item285a871a2d:g:BeIAAOSwA3dYK0nS
Or these if I don't....
https://www.pololu.com/category/226/s9v11x-step-up-step-down-voltage-regulators
First, I don't see any switching circuitry for disconnecting the load while charging the battery, I can't believe the board can do both simultaneously, the combined load of the battery and the prop may be too much and the two second delay could be the chip going into current limit...
I looked at other listing for this board and I think the 5 volt claim is a typo, the board could probably output 5 volts but you would have to figure out the right "set resistor" for the chip.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pc...html?spm=2114.11010108.01008.6.650c649b7WhfCy
I use separate boost regulators and chargers, just don't trust these combo boards. Depending on how much room and how much current I need I will choose these if I have the room.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-DC-DC-2...495341?hash=item285a871a2d:g:BeIAAOSwA3dYK0nS
Or these if I don't....
https://www.pololu.com/category/226/s9v11x-step-up-step-down-voltage-regulators
Yeah with the green board, I have found the resistors I need to switch out. Already ordered new resistors to put in... so when they come in and i swap them out. if it works ill probably go with them.
There isnt a lot pf space left. The common buckboost with the pot doesnt fit. The one you posted might fit as its a little smaller... but would be a right squeeze
So if swapping these resistors out works, ill be going with that.
Thanks for the tips
If anyone is interested the two resistors that set the voltage. is R4 and I think R3, bellow the inductor and next to the cap in the centre.
They need to be swapped with a 88k and 12k, though off the top of my head right now i cant remember what one goes where.
There isnt a lot pf space left. The common buckboost with the pot doesnt fit. The one you posted might fit as its a little smaller... but would be a right squeeze
So if swapping these resistors out works, ill be going with that.
Thanks for the tips
If anyone is interested the two resistors that set the voltage. is R4 and I think R3, bellow the inductor and next to the cap in the centre.
They need to be swapped with a 88k and 12k, though off the top of my head right now i cant remember what one goes where.
I love this project! Looking at the pictures and video your so close. It's really looking great!
teslabe
Sr Member
If anyone is interested the two resistors that set the voltage. is R4 and I think R3, bellow the inductor and next to the cap in the centre.
They need to be swapped with a 88k and 12k, though off the top of my head right now i cant remember what one goes where.
View attachment 829093
The 88K should go between the cathode of the schottky diode and pin 1 (SW-output) and the 12K goes from pin1 to ground.
http://www.superchip.cn/Private/ProductFiles/636077346863498125165006379.pdf
After a weekend of witcher 3, today I finally built up the courage to cracking open the tricorder to fix that led... Very carefully done and managed to do it without too much damage. Going to have to remember to weld and abs slurry fill the seams...
I'll I'll that a little later.
Managed to fix the led, funny it had two issues with it.
1 somewhere it seemed there was a break in the trace. Signal wasnt reaching the arduino. So i soldered a little wire to fix that. Second issue was my mistake. I put that led on pin 7, the other red led on pin 6. And tried to control pin 7 with an analogwrite call. Trouble is pin 7 doesnt have pwm so that wouldn't work. So i connected the led to pin 6... I don't really need them to be individual. But I wanted that brightness control.
Anyway all working. Now I must put it back together
I'll I'll that a little later.
Managed to fix the led, funny it had two issues with it.
1 somewhere it seemed there was a break in the trace. Signal wasnt reaching the arduino. So i soldered a little wire to fix that. Second issue was my mistake. I put that led on pin 7, the other red led on pin 6. And tried to control pin 7 with an analogwrite call. Trouble is pin 7 doesnt have pwm so that wouldn't work. So i connected the led to pin 6... I don't really need them to be individual. But I wanted that brightness control.
Anyway all working. Now I must put it back together
Hi all, need some advice...
The brass hinges don't seem to be perfectly conducting the power between sides. When the door is moved power gets cut and the arduino resets.
Does anyone have any tips on improving the conductivity in the hinges?
I might be able to pinch them a bit with needle nosed pliers, but I'm worried about marking them or warping them to much.
The brass hinges don't seem to be perfectly conducting the power between sides. When the door is moved power gets cut and the arduino resets.
Does anyone have any tips on improving the conductivity in the hinges?
I might be able to pinch them a bit with needle nosed pliers, but I'm worried about marking them or warping them to much.
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Squeezing with pliers is what the old tricorder builders did back in the day – Dennis Stines et al. Wrap the ends of the pliers in tape to avoid leaving marks.
Fix one thing break to others......
This sodding hinge issue with the flat flex rears its head again...
Well i got the resistors in the post today, and the charger/boost module is giving me a decent 4.95 v... Close enough to 5v.
However, yet again, the flat flex idea i had using the metal shim snapped again.
Something caught it and it couldn't push in and then suddenly it kinked and snapped.
So I need some help. For this to work I need sprung steel. Thick enough to not kink but strong and flexible enough to wrap around the hinge...
This is really starting to become a right problem for me.
This sodding hinge issue with the flat flex rears its head again...
Well i got the resistors in the post today, and the charger/boost module is giving me a decent 4.95 v... Close enough to 5v.
However, yet again, the flat flex idea i had using the metal shim snapped again.
Something caught it and it couldn't push in and then suddenly it kinked and snapped.
So I need some help. For this to work I need sprung steel. Thick enough to not kink but strong and flexible enough to wrap around the hinge...
This is really starting to become a right problem for me.
NakedMoleRat
Master Member
When I built Mark X’s, and I made four or five of them, I would severely sand the mess out of the hinges, leaving deep scratches that would allow the solder to seep into and melt into the wires with. I never had a problem with connectivity or wires breaking free.
