AnubisGuard
Master Member
That's a solid match. The only thing missing is that weird, vaguely-hammered texture that 7173 seemed to have.
Star Trek: Mark IX TR-590 Tricorder
- Thread starter Dreamscape
- Start date
Dreamscape
Active Member
Just a small update. I'm letting the lacquer have plenty of curing time while I wait for the electronics. I'm still keeping my eye out for some zinc hinges but I'm yet to find a match. I think the easiest option will be to try finding someone who can coat the brass ones in zinc.
On the subject of electronics, Gerry has stopped selling on eBay so he can complete his orders. And mine is in the batch he's working on right now.
On the subject of electronics, Gerry has stopped selling on eBay so he can complete his orders. And mine is in the batch he's working on right now.
Dreamscape
Active Member
So as I couldn't do much on the tricorder while I waited for the electronics, I decided to splash out on a kit for the medical mark X tricorder from Stapleton.
With that now in the post, I've started to get the door hinges putty filled in and sanded - I'll use this door for a static medical tricorder, and the other for my working science prop.
Pass one of putty came out nicely and very smooth after sanding. I reckon I'll need 2 more passes to completely cover the hinges and level it out.
With that now in the post, I've started to get the door hinges putty filled in and sanded - I'll use this door for a static medical tricorder, and the other for my working science prop.
Pass one of putty came out nicely and very smooth after sanding. I reckon I'll need 2 more passes to completely cover the hinges and level it out.
Attachments
Dreamscape
Active Member
So good news and bad news...
Good news is that I got the door and hinges filled, primed, painted and attached to the body.
The bad news is that after a few open and closes, it started to wear the paint off certain bits of the hinge:
Obviously I've learnt from my mistakes and will know how to resolve this for the next kit (which is on it's way). But unsure how i fix this on this kit now it's all attached and lacquered.
Any ideas?
Good news is that I got the door and hinges filled, primed, painted and attached to the body.
The bad news is that after a few open and closes, it started to wear the paint off certain bits of the hinge:
Obviously I've learnt from my mistakes and will know how to resolve this for the next kit (which is on it's way). But unsure how i fix this on this kit now it's all attached and lacquered.
Any ideas?
Dreamscape
Active Member
I managed to use a fine flat screwdriver to create a slightly larger gap between the hinge adjacent resin - which (for the most part) solved the problem after I resprayed the hinges external hinges. I just need to respray the internal ones that are visible as brass in these images.
I forgot to take photos - but now that I've got another kit in the way I've moved forward quite fast as this is now a static Medical Tricorder prop.
I had a couple of mistakes when gluing in the buttons, and got it on the paintwork. Another lesson to learn - don't use superglue that dries instantly when pressed! I'll definitely be moving to an epoxy glue next time, possibly a two-part with harder.
I've been able to sand the mistakes down, so will just need to re-lacquer. I'm going to wait until the whole thing is finished before doing that so I can give the buttons a protective coat. That said, I'm going to test it on one of the spare TR-590 labels to make sure the lacquer doesn't have an unexpected reaction before I do that.
I've noticed that the EMRG keypad is slightly lower than the others. But I've not fixed that one in, so I can raise it up a tad. I've also fixed foil behind the EMRG red button so that it reflects a bit of light.
The door looks more blue grey than the body in this image but I think it's just the completely flat vs slightly rounded surface.
I forgot to take photos - but now that I've got another kit in the way I've moved forward quite fast as this is now a static Medical Tricorder prop.
I had a couple of mistakes when gluing in the buttons, and got it on the paintwork. Another lesson to learn - don't use superglue that dries instantly when pressed! I'll definitely be moving to an epoxy glue next time, possibly a two-part with harder.
I've been able to sand the mistakes down, so will just need to re-lacquer. I'm going to wait until the whole thing is finished before doing that so I can give the buttons a protective coat. That said, I'm going to test it on one of the spare TR-590 labels to make sure the lacquer doesn't have an unexpected reaction before I do that.
I've noticed that the EMRG keypad is slightly lower than the others. But I've not fixed that one in, so I can raise it up a tad. I've also fixed foil behind the EMRG red button so that it reflects a bit of light.
The door looks more blue grey than the body in this image but I think it's just the completely flat vs slightly rounded surface.
Dreamscape
Active Member
So I just got my medical tricorder kit and used it to finish off the main bits (with the exception of the hand scanner).
Now I'll turn to what will be my science tricorder which will include electronics. I plan to most of the work while installing the electrics so I'm very limited to what I can do right now. I'll start by attaching the back to the main body. Having learnt from my mistakes I'll be using a 2 part epoxy resin glue.
Now I'll turn to what will be my science tricorder which will include electronics. I plan to most of the work while installing the electrics so I'm very limited to what I can do right now. I'll start by attaching the back to the main body. Having learnt from my mistakes I'll be using a 2 part epoxy resin glue.
Kureigu
Active Member
It's looking really good!
I've borrowed a few tips off you for the one I'm currently building (a MkIX Science), especially the paint recommendations!
Do you mind if I ask, what clear lacquer are you using?
Also, you mentioned knowing how to fix the hinges being stripped of paint for your next build - what are you planning? I'm anticipating the same problem, so advice to prevent it would be great
I've borrowed a few tips off you for the one I'm currently building (a MkIX Science), especially the paint recommendations!
Do you mind if I ask, what clear lacquer are you using?
Also, you mentioned knowing how to fix the hinges being stripped of paint for your next build - what are you planning? I'm anticipating the same problem, so advice to prevent it would be great
Dreamscape
Active Member
It's looking really good!
I've borrowed a few tips off you for the one I'm currently building (a MkIX Science), especially the paint recommendations!
Do you mind if I ask, what clear lacquer are you using?
Also, you mentioned knowing how to fix the hinges being stripped of paint for your next build - what are you planning? I'm anticipating the same problem, so advice to prevent it would be great
All the paint was Halfords - including their standard clear lacquer.
For the hinges, its just a matter of sanding the resin around the bits where the hinge knuckles touch. I'd recommend having at least a 1mm gap between the hinge knuckle and the resin so the paint build up still doesn't touch it. I'd also suggest masking off and spraying the hinges separately. I ended up not having primer on them - just the paint. It seems to take well (as I gave the hinges a quick rub down with 800 grit).
Another tip if you're going to use the 2 different paint colours to get a close match to GM7173, is make sure you leave the lacquer until all parts have had the paint on. If you lacquer one bit before you paint another bit, it will be more difficult to judge how much Dakota to put over the Smoke Grey. And you could end up with parts that don't quite match. So I'd recommend preparing the entire kit so it's ready for primer, paint and lacquer, and do each layer on the entire thing at the same time.
There is some debate on whether you should leave paint 24 hours before applying lacquer, or do it after the last coat as had 20 mins drying time. I've tried both and feel leaving it 24 hours ends up with a much nicer smooth finish.
As a matter of interest are you doing electronics too? I am for my IX Science - but its been over 4 months since I ordered them. Not sure if that's usual for Gerry (but he hasn't responded to the last 2 messages I've sent him). Am I being too impatient?
Kureigu
Active Member
Awesome tips, thanks! I'll be sure to follow it.
Yes, I'm planning on installing the electronics and I ordered from Gerry too. He does take a long time, mainly owing to ill health as I understand it.
I think I was waiting for about a year for my phaser electronics, but that was in 2014 (I've REALLY taken ages to get around to doing this build!) so I'm not sure how he's doing now.
Yes, I'm planning on installing the electronics and I ordered from Gerry too. He does take a long time, mainly owing to ill health as I understand it.
I think I was waiting for about a year for my phaser electronics, but that was in 2014 (I've REALLY taken ages to get around to doing this build!) so I'm not sure how he's doing now.
I ordered my kit the first week of January. So I’ve been asking myself the same question. Haven’t heard anything since maybe April.
If Gerry is unwell and unable to deliver, have you considered one of the kits online? Or designing your own electronics? It's not that hard tbh.
I must be honest. If I had paid gerry and I've waited more than a couple of months I would be asking for a refund :/
Not to crap on him. I know he's trustworthy and been at this for years. But if what every going on is affecting his ability to deliver he should stop taking orders till he can carry on.
With my voyager tricorder, if by any chance it got popular and I have lots of orders, I'll only accept the orders one at a time and put anyone else on a first come first server waiting list. If anything to protect myself and the buyer. I wouldn't take any money until I know I can deliver something... I might loose some orders that way. But it's better than getting a rep for swindling, not to mention takes the stress off me...
I must be honest. If I had paid gerry and I've waited more than a couple of months I would be asking for a refund :/
Not to crap on him. I know he's trustworthy and been at this for years. But if what every going on is affecting his ability to deliver he should stop taking orders till he can carry on.
With my voyager tricorder, if by any chance it got popular and I have lots of orders, I'll only accept the orders one at a time and put anyone else on a first come first server waiting list. If anything to protect myself and the buyer. I wouldn't take any money until I know I can deliver something... I might loose some orders that way. But it's better than getting a rep for swindling, not to mention takes the stress off me...
Dreamscape
Active Member
As soon as he got the job he stopped putting stuff on eBay. I dropped him another line amd he got back immediately. He's got more time now to focus on kits again which is great news for those of us who already have orders in.
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Does anyone have contact info for Gerry?
Sean
Sean
Dreamscape
Active Member
So I've started prepping the second tricorder which will be the TR-590 IX Science with electronics. I've started with epoxy resin glue to fix the front and back together.
There's a small bubble that I'm slowly filling in - but it's only 1 of 2 in the whole kit.
And while the seam may look rough and not well joined, a photo with some reflection shows how smooth the join really is:
I've send you a PM with it.
There's a small bubble that I'm slowly filling in - but it's only 1 of 2 in the whole kit.
And while the seam may look rough and not well joined, a photo with some reflection shows how smooth the join really is:
I've send you a PM with it.
You just heard back from him recently? I sent him a message about a week ago and haven’t heard anything.
Dreamscape
Active Member
So I found a case that will house my static and hero props.
The lower phaser is a very old solid resin kit - which I think may be a recast (I wouldn't condone recasting - just never knew about what it was until I came to this forum) but once repainted it will make a nice filler with the other 3 "proper" kits.
Just need the electronics for the tricorder so I can get to work on it.
The lower phaser is a very old solid resin kit - which I think may be a recast (I wouldn't condone recasting - just never knew about what it was until I came to this forum) but once repainted it will make a nice filler with the other 3 "proper" kits.
Just need the electronics for the tricorder so I can get to work on it.
Dreamscape
Active Member
If you're talking about the case, this was a UK purchase:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-...var=472070876796&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
