My Tomenosuke Blade Runner 2049 build

Got a question, did you manage to unscrew the „whateveritscalled“
916BECF3-2541-4E7E-9C71-80B8F72CD928.jpeg
Read somewhere that it’s hard to remove, haven’t really given it my 100%, but I couldn’t move it an inch, feels like I would break it if pushing it to hard.
 
Got a question, did you manage to unscrew the „whateveritscalled“
View attachment 806012
Read somewhere that it’s hard to remove, haven’t really given it my 100%, but I couldn’t move it an inch, feels like I would break it if pushing it to hard.

Ah, no, I left that alone. I actually thought I'd read it was molded in, and I don't need it to be "a real one." :)
 
Got a question, did you manage to unscrew the „whateveritscalled“
View attachment 806012
Read somewhere that it’s hard to remove, haven’t really given it my 100%, but I couldn’t move it an inch, feels like I would break it if pushing it to hard.

It is called a "binding post" (from a military EE-8 phone) and you can remove it carefully with a pliers turning it left and right.
 
It is called a "binding post" (from a military EE-8 phone) and you can remove it carefully with a pliers turning it left and right.

Right. Binding post (I didn't have quick access to my parts list when he asked and I wanted to say weaver knob, but knew that was wrong!) Good to know! Actually I read the whole tips thread yesterday and found that out. Still not planning on replacing it though, personally.
 
The Binding posts on Tomenosuke are just friction and pressure fit in, they can be removed. Problem is the hole on the Tomen is too big for a real one. What you would need to do is fill with epoxy then when the epoxy is starting to harden screw the Binding Post in, let it harden, then slowly work it back out. It will create some threading for it to use so you can screw it in and out. I do the same for my Weaver knob when I had to redrill/tap for the real one since I accidentally grabbed the wrong size tap.

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The Binding posts on Tomenosuke are just friction and pressure fit in, they can be removed. Problem is the hole on the Tomen is too big for a real one. What you would need to do is fill with epoxy then when the epoxy is starting to harden screw the Binding Post in, let it harden, then slowly work it back out. It will create some threading for it to use so you can screw it in and out. I do the same for my Weaver knob when I had to redrill/tap for the real one since I accidentally grabbed the wrong size tap.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/92334ae265fbec363c8397aa5a08b0ad.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's incredibly useful info! Thank you :)
 
Received, blued, and installed Don Parker's cylinder! The blaster has a nice added weight to it now. It'll be a good long while until I add the steel barrel—I don't have a tool bench to mount grips on for when it comes time to sawing—but I did get a suggestion from Juan Fernandez for what wires to use, so I may do that step next month. For now, this is the blaster with its steel cylinder and a temporary wire situation: some old iPhone headphones I cut up and tucked into the cylinder cover.

And... as usual, this forum is rotating my photos for no reason whatsoever. Yay.

IMG_7769.JPGIMG_7770.jpgIMG_7776.JPGIMG_7778.JPG

with the temporary wire setup:

IMG_7764.JPG
 
That looks really good, man.

I still havent blued my cylinder, hahah. I’m trying to get to it this weekend but we’ll see.

You’re blaster is looking epic :thumbsup
 
So: I recently got a hack saw and am finally ready to replace the barrel in my blaster with a steel one. If I don't have a set of vice grips to hold the blaster steady, does it matter if the cut isn't flush? I figure I'm going to be sanding it down flat anyway.
 
So: I recently got a hack saw and am finally ready to replace the barrel in my blaster with a steel one. If I don't have a set of vice grips to hold the blaster steady, does it matter if the cut isn't flush? I figure I'm going to be sanding it down flat anyway.

It doesn't really matter. There should be a line where the "Barrel meets the gun" sort to speak and you'll want to stay in that parameter with your cut. but besides that it isn't a big deal either way. especially if filing and sanding it. Also I did my blaster holding the Bulldog down with my hand, so it is perfectly doable :)
 
It doesn't really matter. There should be a line where the "Barrel meets the gun" sort to speak and you'll want to stay in that parameter with your cut. but besides that it isn't a big deal either way. especially if filing and sanding it. Also I did my blaster holding the Bulldog down with my hand, so it is perfectly doable :)

Awesome. Thank you!
 
Anyone have issues with the cylinder not fitting easily? I can't get mine to slide in, it seems to be hitting the plate inside the frame that is held in with two screws which the firing pin goes through. Also I had some break through on the cylinder cover right where the two cap screws hold it to the cylinder bracket. Is this normal or should I seek a replacement from Tomenosuke?

Thanks!
 
Hiya,

Great work!

Any tips for getting rid of a scratch on the butt plate of my 2049 tomenosuke? Was like it when I received it brand new. I want to keep it as a pristine version. The scratch wouldn't show up too much if it was weathered. It's not too deep, more superficial if anything but noticeable due to its size. It appears to have a slightly pitted finish. Not sure if it's a chrome finish or just polished.

Thanks

Mike
 
don't worry, this is a polished part, not chromed.
you can just unscrew it, sand it with fine grit sandpapers then polish it for instance with mother's mag and aluminium polish.
 
Thanks Eethan.

Appreciate your expertise. I feel better this seems like a job I can manage as my skills at building and treating such things are zero.

Mike
 
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