Greetings! This is my very first FX saber build. I’ve done a good number of static props, over the years, but I decided to finally jump into the deep end and build a proper FX saber. East Coast Sabers’ “How to Build a Graflex” tutorial series was both an inspiration and an invaluable learning tool, but those videos feature a Nano Biscotte install, not a Crystal Focus, so I can’t just follow along with that tutorial step-by-step. I chose CF because of its flexibility, its motion sensitivity, and its sound bank capacity. I intend this to be a fairly simple build, though.
Anyway, I acquired a Graflex 2.0 and various parts from WannaWanga, The Graflex Shop, and KR sabers to accurize it. I’ve finished the bulk of the prep work with the inner core, but I got a little overeager, and my first attempt at installing the electronics went wrong, somehow. I had a CF8 board, and soldered it to the TCSS 7.4v 18650 battery, but something went wrong. When I tried to charge the battery, the battery charger light turned green as soon as I plugged it in, with no functionality whatsoever in the board. I’m not sure what went wrong. I also made the stupid mistakes of epoxying the recharge port (which I didn’t realize was designed to screw into place until later) into my Goth3D chassis (Padawan Graflex 2.0 model), and soldering the wires onto the CF board from the wrong side, initially, with the result being that the board sat upside-down on the chassis, and so the chassis wouldn’t slide into the Graflex’s bottom half, because the SD slot was obstructing things.
I also think I may have somehow damaged the board, in desoldering then resoldering the wires on the correct (bottom) side. After totally freaking out, I bit the bullet, and got a new 3D-printed chassis, speaker, and recharge port, as well as upgrading to a CF9 board. I’ll deal with the old CF8 board at a later date, and maybe another build. I’m still not sure what the deal was with my first attempt—why the charger indicated a full battery, or what went wrong. My multimeter wasn’t much help, since the speaker and recharge port were already permanently in place. LESSON ONE: Don’t install until you’re sure everything works!
I’m by no means an electronics expert, but I have basic knowledge and experience with soldering. I just went too far too fast, and made a mistake somewhere. I’d appreciate the help of the learned people in this form to help me avoid any further mistakes. In theory, this build is in the final stages, but I’m going slowly (and now taking the step of joining this forum to have feedback from the experts). As it stands, I have the LED module (Tri-Cree BBW) wired up, as well as some 5ohm/5w resistors ready to go. I presume that my resistor calculations are correct (the Blue LEDs are rated at a forward voltage of 1000ma at 3.4v, and the White at 1000ma at 3.15v). That would require one resistor for each LED at 4.7ohms/4.7w, yes?
I do have a question about CF9’s FoC feature. If I read the manual right, it seems that a resistor would be required for the white LED die. However, research indicates that a resistor might not be necessary, given that the FoC LED would only be in operation for short bursts at a time. And, according to the manual, the board has a footprint for a 2512/2W resistor. Should I go to the trouble of adding such a resistor to the board, or adding a resistor at all?
Also, I’m still deciding on whether to have a clamp card aux switch, or a red button aux switch. My activation will be in the clamp, but it would be nice to have dual aux switches—one in the clamp, and one in the red button. Is that doable? Or will I have to choose one or the other? My research hasn’t clearly indicated if the board can be wired with two aux buttons or not.
Any advice or warning about potential pitfalls would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Here’s where the build stands. A heavy static replica (still temporarily sporting the stock clamp card), without its beating CF heart! More photos as I make progress.
Anyway, I acquired a Graflex 2.0 and various parts from WannaWanga, The Graflex Shop, and KR sabers to accurize it. I’ve finished the bulk of the prep work with the inner core, but I got a little overeager, and my first attempt at installing the electronics went wrong, somehow. I had a CF8 board, and soldered it to the TCSS 7.4v 18650 battery, but something went wrong. When I tried to charge the battery, the battery charger light turned green as soon as I plugged it in, with no functionality whatsoever in the board. I’m not sure what went wrong. I also made the stupid mistakes of epoxying the recharge port (which I didn’t realize was designed to screw into place until later) into my Goth3D chassis (Padawan Graflex 2.0 model), and soldering the wires onto the CF board from the wrong side, initially, with the result being that the board sat upside-down on the chassis, and so the chassis wouldn’t slide into the Graflex’s bottom half, because the SD slot was obstructing things.
I also think I may have somehow damaged the board, in desoldering then resoldering the wires on the correct (bottom) side. After totally freaking out, I bit the bullet, and got a new 3D-printed chassis, speaker, and recharge port, as well as upgrading to a CF9 board. I’ll deal with the old CF8 board at a later date, and maybe another build. I’m still not sure what the deal was with my first attempt—why the charger indicated a full battery, or what went wrong. My multimeter wasn’t much help, since the speaker and recharge port were already permanently in place. LESSON ONE: Don’t install until you’re sure everything works!
I’m by no means an electronics expert, but I have basic knowledge and experience with soldering. I just went too far too fast, and made a mistake somewhere. I’d appreciate the help of the learned people in this form to help me avoid any further mistakes. In theory, this build is in the final stages, but I’m going slowly (and now taking the step of joining this forum to have feedback from the experts). As it stands, I have the LED module (Tri-Cree BBW) wired up, as well as some 5ohm/5w resistors ready to go. I presume that my resistor calculations are correct (the Blue LEDs are rated at a forward voltage of 1000ma at 3.4v, and the White at 1000ma at 3.15v). That would require one resistor for each LED at 4.7ohms/4.7w, yes?
I do have a question about CF9’s FoC feature. If I read the manual right, it seems that a resistor would be required for the white LED die. However, research indicates that a resistor might not be necessary, given that the FoC LED would only be in operation for short bursts at a time. And, according to the manual, the board has a footprint for a 2512/2W resistor. Should I go to the trouble of adding such a resistor to the board, or adding a resistor at all?
Also, I’m still deciding on whether to have a clamp card aux switch, or a red button aux switch. My activation will be in the clamp, but it would be nice to have dual aux switches—one in the clamp, and one in the red button. Is that doable? Or will I have to choose one or the other? My research hasn’t clearly indicated if the board can be wired with two aux buttons or not.
Any advice or warning about potential pitfalls would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Here’s where the build stands. A heavy static replica (still temporarily sporting the stock clamp card), without its beating CF heart! More photos as I make progress.
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