Metal Lathes-which one to get?

For me the truth is somehow between you and that guy in the vid. It´s recognizeable that you both havn´t "really" learned to operate a lathe. [emoji6]
And if you are used to a big lathe, it may be even harder to get used to such a small one - due to it´s limitations it works so different on so many levels (wasn´t always easy for me at the beginning). And i´m no friend of metal gears in/on such small desk lathes - they are louder, and not as forgiving if a crash occurs.

So you would not advise me to upgrade the wheels? If I ever have a breakage, just throw plastic replacements?

I’ve been pretty lucky so far

I really like the dro, because I’m not “smart” enough to remember each and ever cut. I usually cut 10thou at a time. Some times 20, but I get nervous with 20

So I write each cut down on scrap paper.

The dials only go up to 70, so once I got that I just zero out and mark on my paper

I think if I felt or new I could cut deeper, I wouldn’t say that it’s a limitation

But that’s one thing I can say about it, when only doing 10-20thou it makes for a sloooooooow cut lol
 
If you read the comments on the chucke2009 video a lot of people made some pretty good counterpoints. Also, that new southbend 10 is NOT worth the $7500 asking price. Its a Grizzly with Southbend badges. They are made by grizzly and are southbend in name only. An older southbend Heavy 10 is an awesome lathe, the new ones not so much. Also, Michael is 100% right on the metal gears for mini lathes, not worth it. Plastic is a good insurance policy, cheap to replace and keeps something more expensive from getting damaged. I use a 3d printed gear on my mini lathe from ebay, it slows the ipr down and gets an awesome surface finish. If you want the aluminum annodized hand wheels Micromark has them for $50. The DRO's on the compound and crossfeed have about .015 slop or more. Ive know 3 people with them who all sent them back. A regular 2 axis dro (from ebay, alibaba, etc) will cost a little less and be way more accurate. Even the igaging ones that are popular with the mini lathes are much more accurate.
 
No, i wouldn´t advise metal gears as i see no real advantage in doing it. If someone produces a crash, it´s usually better to have the plastic teeth sheared of than the impact going into all related parts, connections and bearings.

The dro is for sure a good helper, but be carefull, due to the way it´s build/works it´s not as trustable than the better systems. Good enough for things like you mentioned, just don´t trust it if you need a more precise fit, small cuts and control fitment often then.

"Thou"? I work metric, no idea what that is. But the cut depth also depends on your tools (sharp bits from HSS or indexable inserts especially for alu cut better than indexable tools made for steel, which work more with pressure than cutting). Additional, these little Lathes don´t have the torque of a big one with 3 phases. Where the big ones just "eat" their way through the material at slow rpms and deep cuts, it often helps with this smaller ones not go that deep with more rpms. But to be honest, that is something i find much easier to show in front of a running lathe than to explain in writing, even in german, much more in english. :$
 
If you read the comments on the chucke2009 video a lot of people made some pretty good counterpoints. Also, that new southbend 10 is NOT worth the $7500 asking price. Its a Grizzly with Southbend badges. They are made by grizzly and are southbend in name only. An older southbend Heavy 10 is an awesome lathe, the new ones not so much. Also, Michael is 100% right on the metal gears for mini lathes, not worth it. Plastic is a good insurance policy, cheap to replace and keeps something more expensive from getting damaged. I use a 3d printed gear on my mini lathe from ebay, it slows the ipr down and gets an awesome surface finish. If you want the aluminum annodized hand wheels Micromark has them for $50. The DRO's on the compound and crossfeed have about .015 slop or more. Ive know 3 people with them who all sent them back. A regular 2 axis dro (from ebay, alibaba, etc) will cost a little less and be way more accurate. Even the igaging ones that are popular with the mini lathes are much more accurate.

Thanks tom, any links to this “nicer” dro’s?


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No, i wouldn´t advise metal gears as i see no real advantage in doing it. If someone produces a crash, it´s usually better to have the plastic teeth sheared of than the impact going into all related parts, connections and bearings.

The dro is for sure a good helper, but be carefull, due to the way it´s build/works it´s not as trustable than the better systems. Good enough for things like you mentioned, just don´t trust it if you need a more precise fit, small cuts and control fitment often then.

"Thou"? I work metric, no idea what that is. But the cut depth also depends on your tools (sharp bits from HSS or indexable inserts especially for alu cut better than indexable tools made for steel, which work more with pressure than cutting). Additional, these little Lathes don´t have the torque of a big one with 3 phases. Where the big ones just "eat" their way through the material at slow rpms and deep cuts, it often helps with this smaller ones not go that deep with more rpms. But to be honest, that is something i find much easier to show in front of a running lathe than to explain in writing, even in german, much more in english. :$

I tend to make things up as I go thou = thousands
 
Found the igaging dro’s. I’m gonna grab some next month, see if I can get them mounted on my mini mill.
 
I assume thousands of an inch then? So 10 is 0,25mm and 20 is 0,5mm? Your dial shows the amount your dia is reduced, not the way of the tool?

It´s several years that i used/had one of the minilathes, but if i remember correct 1,0 - 2,0mm from the dia should be doable in alu with the right tools (sharp).
 
this is so useful, on so many levels! I have always wanted to get into my own fabrication efforts and am at a loss of the right questions, everyone is so helpful and full of contribution! thanks for asking (op) and thanks to the members for all the support. I love props, and am working on a watch case and some jewelry so I have the same question.
 
I assume thousands of an inch then? So 10 is 0,25mm and 20 is 0,5mm? Your dial shows the amount your dia is reduced, not the way of the tool?

It´s several years that i used/had one of the minilathes, but if i remember correct 1,0 - 2,0mm from the dia should be doable in alu with the right tools (sharp).

So am I doing the math correctly... with carbide tip tools, I can cut 2.0mm (in aluminum)

That would be 40 thousands? (0.040”)

I’m only cutting half of that and get nervous lol
 
So am I doing the math correctly... with carbide tip tools, I can cut 2.0mm (in aluminum)

That would be 40 thousands? (0.040”)

I’m only cutting half of that and get nervous lol

With the correct speed, correct feed, and the correct tips (carbide tools are made in many different versions and tip radius, coated and polished - each for different use on different material.

As you notice it slows noticeable down while cutting ... less feed or not so deep.

Better nervous and safe than fast and sorry. :D
 
With the correct speed, correct feed, and the correct tips (carbide tools are made in many different versions and tip radius, coated and polished - each for different use on different material.

Better nervous and safe than fast and sorry. :D

Yeah I recently purchased a 40 dollar cut off bit... sucker lasted only 2 days... possibly 5 hours total lol

Lesson learned!
 
Carbide tips are known for breaking when making mistakes (not cutting deep enough can cause shatter, esspecially when parting of), maybe some HSS and learning to grind them sharp would be a good idea. And over time cheaper for sure (i´m just to lazy to grind, ignoring i own a 400Kg grinder made especially for grinding lathetools). :facepalm

But for 40 you should get not only one but a set of tips.
 
Ha-ha Lichtbringer . Seriously though. Is it when a bit gets stuck in the....hold on checking the mini-lathe.com glossary... oh, duh, the stock? Or is it when part of the carriage or tool holder hits the spindle? I'm really wondering how the "crash" pertains to the gears being plastic or metal?


Thanks for the headsup on the Southbend Heavy 10 tomm1999 ! I have to dig up the printouts I made last year on lathes to look at. Apparently I didn't bookmark anything when I was looking around at what all is out there. I think one of the printouts was for a Grizzly as that name sounds familiar too.
 
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I’m guessing a crash is when the tool goes into the chuck, whoops!!!

That´s probably the most happened crash, bringing a lot impact power into the machine and it´s parts.

Others are when the tool bites into the material, causing a broken tool (parting blade for example), or the material pulled out of the chuck (esspecially with flexible material like POM, Nylon and others, or when thinwalled tubes collapse) - which sends the part flying around, with luck not into your face.
 
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