Metal Lathes-which one to get?

Alcadude

Member
Hello all,

I am wondering what metal lathe to get to make lightsabers on.I have made quite a few out of PVc and sinktubes and would like to step up to full metal sabers.There are so many metal lathes to choose from and was wondering which ones are worth buying.I would like it to be within 650 dollars.Thanks
 
Hello all,

I am wondering what metal lathe to get to make lightsabers on.I have made quite a few out of PVc and sinktubes and would like to step up to full metal sabers.There are so many metal lathes to choose from and was wondering which ones are worth buying.I would like it to be within 650 dollars.Thanks

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Personally I went with a harbor freight. Their central machine is pretty much a carbon copy of the grizzly. But the central machine cost 26 bucks in shipping, and grizzly was close to 300...

I went with the 7 x 12. A few of my FX buddies said the 10 will work but 12 is easier to work with


https://m.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-12-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93799.html

I did a few upgrades from little machine shop. Everything I have ordered from them shows up really timely

The quick change post kit is a MUST.

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5207&category=

I have been really impressed with this machine, even more impressed with its central machine sister mini mill

Best part is once in awhile I get a flyer in the mail for 25% off, I used that on both the lathe and the mill. This was a long time ago, wonder if you can still do that now...

I wouldn’t hesitate to order this machine again, very happy with it
 
Thanks very much for the response and help.Have you had any issues with it? I have heard (and know) that harbor freights quality isn't always the best.
 
Thanks very much for the response and help.Have you had any issues with it? I have heard (and know) that harbor freights quality isn't always the best.

I haven’t had any issues with operation. I broke my cut off bit, but that has nothing to do with the machine itself

I know harbor freight is known for its Chinese junk... but you be surprised at how many big name guys on here and other sites have one of these

For the price you can’t beat it.

But a quick change tool post is a must. It’s such a pita setting up center with this lantern cage... all kinds of washers, you can’t clamp is down 100% true... when I got the quick change setup it was night and day, I’ll never go back

Even our dinosaur lathe in the shop, that is a non quick change. I never knew quick change setups existed until now, well worth the money

Shipping is the hardest part, I work 2 jobs and only home on Sunday morning. Both the lathe and mill were dropped off at my dads shop in the city, which is wicked right streets...

So if your having this freighted to your house, make a plan on how to get it off the truck. The lady on the phone told me the driver would help me. At this time my dad was having medical issues and in the hospital (my dad is a giant, and if in good health could have moved it himself)

So I figured I’d be all set with the driver

When he got to the shop he refused to help me take it off... so I had to setup some planks, and use a ratchet strap to move it down the planks off the back of the truck... each pallet weight 250lbs... or so the label said

Once I got it on the street I just used our floor jacks and rolled it in our shop.

Now getting it from my dads shop to my work shed at home... that’s a whole other story.

I tell you this story because where ever this is getting dropped off be sure you have a ways to get it off the truck, it’s very cumbersome

I was lucky to have everything I did at the shop, if not I don’t know how I would have been able to get it off the back end of the 18wheeler...
 
Thanks for all the info, I'll have to keep this in mind for when I have a place with a real garage or room for a shop. I would have been pretty unsure about going with machining equipment from Harbor Freight, so I'm glad to hear it's actually a decent option.
 
Danny is 100% right on the QCTP and the 7 x 12 as its actually 4" longer than the 7 x 10 (not 2"). The 7 x 14 is 6" longer and the 7 x 16 is 8" longer bed (littlemachineshop and micromark carry). Even if you arent turning long stock, ypu need the bed length for drilling. They are all made from the same castings from the same factory, so it doesnt really matter which brand you buy. The Littlemachineshop and Micromark ones have a bit more powerful motor (.50hp vs .67hp) and some other very minor upgrades. The machines are decent for a home hobby shop and the Harbor Freight ones will serve you well. They are great to start out on, and if you ever feel the need to upgrade their resale value is pretty decent. I have 2 of these ask any questions you may have
 
These so called mini-lathes (google for that) are a great way to start. To learn. But for sure it would be good to fix them in some points before starting (doable fixes).

They are not really what i would call sturdy and precise, and if you go deeper in the hobby you probably need to sell it and buy a bigger one at a certain point (or pretty fast, depending on your needs), but it´s a good starting machine. But be carefull, even those small machines can cripple you within seconds if you make a bad oopsie.

You mentioned making sabers - these lathes are very limited in their space. The given distance is usually between centers, so with disassembled chuck and no tools in the tailstock, only a (dead, a living center takes also more space away). If you have a drillchuck with a drill mounted in the tailstock, the real workspace is easily reduced to the half.
 
Personally id go for an older machine, while really expensive modern lathes are ridiculously accurate, from what ive seen the smaller ones arnt so well built, ive got a 1956 Myford Ml7, hardly been used by the original owner and great accuracy, my one i picked up for around £600, Myfords arnt that common in the UK nevermind elsewhere but you should be able to find a great southbend for a reasonable price if you have a look around. Again this is just my personal opinion and with machines like those youve got to be careful you get the right machine, quite a few can be really worn down and thats not what you want!
 
Hey Alcadude ! Here's a link to several links for you to peruse...

https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=50092.0



Here's a few links on knurling if you have interest in learning how to make knurls too...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTmv_kYimrI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16PfG8pQUlk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9pD5vIHJ8M


Here's a place you can get knurl wheels from...

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...l-Wheels?navid=12105915+4288243145+4288238604



This little guy looks impressive. I'm just afraid to ask them how much it costs....

https://www.southbendlathe.com/products/metal-lathes/sb1007



While I'm daydreaming, I imagine having one of these too....

http://www.kneemills.com/index.asp?html=prods&catID=1



Good Luck on your purchase! Share some picks when you get your lathe!
 
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Here's a video review of a Harbor Freight Mini-Lathe with some interesting insights...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIEb-pzfwjQ


Hey @halliwax ! Did you have any of these problems with yours? Is yours the same model as this one?


same exact lathe, except his is a 10" and mine is a 12" just little longer

ok so, when i first got mine i had to remove all the yellow gunk off it. if you look at my picture i posted you can see i still had it covered in gunk near the tail shaft.

he keeps complaining about the guard... 2 bolts and the plastic safety guard comes off, you can move the lever it is attached to by hand to activate the safety switch and have the machine run normal..

his problem with turning the large wheel and it getting stuck, and then him grinding away the guard. i had the same exact issue... BUT i didnt grind anything, i simply sprayed wd-40 inside the bearing on the big black wheel... turns like butter...

his drill chuck that doesnt fit. i ordered mine about 2 years ago. it didnt come with the drill chuck bit, i had to order that separate. i dont remember if his drill chuck came in the crate or if he bought it separate, if he did he ordered the wrong one

he also complains about having to use a big lathe to make a center hole, for the dead centering quill ( i am not a machinist so i dont know the correct name for everything), if he ordered the correct drill chuck, or it came with the correct chuck he wouldn't need to make such a fuss over it...

he also keeps complaining about the finish... but each material has a different RPM for cutting. this lathe doesnt have a RPM gauge, but as for finish you can ask tom what i did on this little machine... and see the finish for proof

again more complaining about the knobs... simple wd-40 fixed this issue....

i for one have never spun this motor at its max, (ive never jammed/stalled it either) hes cutting rolled steel and this thing is maxed out.... i only use this machine for aluminum, copper and brass. i dont take anymore then 20 thou at a time. if i need to cut steel, ill bring it to the big shop and use the dinosaur.

the alignment issue he complains about, um... before i set up any piece i always center everything? i always thought that was a must and normal procedure? again im not a machinist but played with the dinosaur since high school, and even that thing is out of whack and needs everything checked before operation. that thing dates back to WWII...

all in all, i cant honesty give my opinion on this review because i unsubscribed to chucky a long time ago... he rather you buy a $5000, 4 ton machine... which is far superior to this little machine... but who in all honesty has the room for a machine like that... he also mentions 3 phase electrical service... who's gonna have that run to their house to power a machine to build "toy" lightsabers...

500-600 bucks, you get a "toy" that can help you make more "toys". im very happy with my purchase, if i were to do it again, id probably got with this

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5200&category=1271799306

and the reasoning is because it already has the quick change post, and DRO read outs. for what i am going to put into the HF lathe, i could have just started with this..

also the billet wheels, i didnt like the plastic wheels either... i havent found it yet but need to find replacement steel/billet wheels. i dont like the idea of plastic gears, but then again, im dont cutting deep, and the strongest aluminum i cut is 6061...

you got me looking up wheels now lol
 
Thank you for your input halliwax ! Does that Yuma blade go down inside the end of the (Anakin Starkiller? V?) ?

In your best Princess Leia voice... "Isn't that blade a little short to be a lightsaber?" ;) HA!



This review of a $2000+ Preciscion Matthews Lathe is a bit disheartening....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhuNjL9CnZE

I'd think for that kind of expense that there wouldn't be ANY metal shavings found anywhere ON it, let alone IN it!!!


Here's some more info on the Sieg made lathes...

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

... correction, make that A LOT of INFORMATION on lathes in general! Off to read up!
 
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Thank you for your input @halliwax ! Does that Yuma blade go down inside the end of the (Anakin Starkiller? V?) ?

In your best Princess Leia voice... "Isn't that blade a little short to be a lightsaber?" ;) HA!



This review of a $2000+ Preciscion Matthews Lathe is a bit disheartening....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhuNjL9CnZE

I'd think for that kind of expense that there wouldn't be ANY metal shavings found anywhere ON it, let alone IN it!!!


Here's some more info on the Sieg made lathes...

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

... correction, make that A LOT of INFORMATION on lathes in general! Off to read up!

i honest havent done much research into any other lathes, because i have this one. i would have done more research if i was seriously going to purchase another, but with the DRO, quick change post. and possibly metal gears, i'd figure its better then the HF, i guess im wrong lol

but this HF one works good enough for what i do with it. the race car parts are made on the dinosaur since they are mostly chromoly, and much larger items. this little lathe works find for crystal chambers lol
 
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This is tom’s, it goes down inside the nipple hole, and is locked in with the set screw in the nipple

The saber was made by “criticalpointmtlwrks” on Etsy

5c84dfc1e152f070a767d5b56f318be6.jpg

I had to mill the control box (thanks to Toms specs) and mill a custom lever, which I think sits too low.. if I were to do it again I would mount it higher on the box

And the alumi-nip
5969a4e676a493698950020a75cc4ba8.jpg
 
For me the truth is somehow between you and that guy in the vid. It´s recognizeable that you both havn´t "really" learned to operate a lathe. ;)
And if you are used to a big lathe, it may be even harder to get used to such a small one - due to it´s limitations it works so different on so many levels (wasn´t always easy for me at the beginning). And i´m no friend of metal gears in/on such small desk lathes - they are louder, and not as forgiving if a crash occurs.
 
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