Converting the Deagostini Millennium Falcon to 1/2scale 5' Replica

David3

Sr Member
This won't be a personal build log but open for anyone who has any tips and tricks to share with the community.
....

Here's what I did to improve that flattish 32" profile-

As the original 5' Falcon has a beefier profile to the 32" stunt model, I've added 3/16" brass tubes to the interior to increase the core height of the Deago frame to match the 5' at 1/2scale.

The 5' model's height to the topside of the turrets is 272mm (10.7"), so at 1/2scale that should be 136mm. After a bit of math I figured the brass rod supports to fit between the turret ring frames should be 105mm. After fitting the new supports, the overall core height measurement on the Deago is now 137mm (to clarify: that measurement of 272mm is for the underlying perspex form of the original 5' model before plating was added to the turrets (see the excellent work on dimensions done here https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=199048&page=16&p=3556837&viewfull=1#post3556837), I guesstimated that the plating was 1mm thick (x2) so I allowed the extra millimetre for that).

IMG_1816.JPG IMG_1821.JPG
(btw: those rods do go all the way through that mounting plate to the turret ring underneath)

To affix the brass tubes to the turret ring frames I'll drill and tap four small holes in the turret rings to screw in some of the left over black framing screws. The heads of these fit neatly into the ends of the tubes and will act as small locator pins. They won't need any further fixing in place to allow for the removal of the top half should access to wiring etc be needed at a later time.

There doesn't seem to be any major issues stretching the framework out like this and the removable front section still fits perfectly with the magnets. Also the engine deck still screws down nicely conforming to the new curvature, however I have noticed that the engine opening where the perspex insert goes has a slight arch to it, so this will need fixing down somehow, which I'll figure out in due course.

The only drawback is that the docking arms are just slightly more sloped from the center than the 5' but to me this is more acceptable than the flatter profile of the 32".

Not sure for anyone who has already finished their kit how much of an issue retro fitting these rods will be but so long as you can still get the top and bottom halves separated then not too much of a problem.

I should also add that fitting magnets to the upper gun turret so that its removable will be a must so you can make sure the brass tubes are locating properly after the top and bottom halves have been securely screwed together.

-MF profile comparison.jpg
Comparing profiles.
5' ILM photo, left / Deago mod., right.
(alignments a little off because of lens distortion and slightly diff camera angles)


So about that mounting plate: I'm using a 330mm (13") aluminium pizza tray with an 8mm (5/16") screwed rod protruding through the gunners window underneath and bolted to an old tripod (eventually I want to mount it on a tall, flat based, chrome stand with an adjustable grip head so it can be displayed in varying positions but the tripod will do for the moment).
The pizza tray with the curved rim fits neatly under the hold floor so no probs with interior flooring.
As this thing is getting pretty heavy I might fit another pizza tray, with the rim removed, inside the first one to strengthen it, if needs be.



Related links -


UPGRADES

Fett_Ish's 5' printed parts for the Deago are a must:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/tr3...w&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=affiliate

Millennium Falcon Notes has a good list of after market items for the Deago including some 5' upgrades and decals-
https://sites.google.com/site/millenniumfalconnotes/deagostini-falcon-upgrades


MARUSKA'S EXCELLENT CAD WORK FOR PRINTING YOUR OWN PARTS-
http://falcon.maruskadesign.com/
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=168520&p=2619718&viewfull=1#post2619718


BUILDS

Fett_Ish's Deago conversions:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=267500

Ian Lawrence Deago conversion to ANH:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvQDe0S6Sto
http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipdeagofalcon.html

Bwize's Deago:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=250817

Ktaylor's magnificent Deago build with many helpful tips on detailing:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=237317




If you're a fan of the 5' ANH Falcon don't miss t2sides 1:1scale replica build:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=282530
And Eagle1's ANH Falcon:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=156436

Also the brilliant work on replicating the original 5' perspex core by vfxsup64, et al. here:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=199048



.
 
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As I'll be replicating the ANH maintenance bays on the underside of the Deago I wanted to know how that will work with the internal framework so put together a diagram to get an idea of size and orientation and which sections of the hull and frame will need to be removed and repaired.

I've also added a small list of the major kit parts used which I'll update further as I get more into it, not that i'll be actually buying all the kits needed but just nice to know.
Should note that the scales on the parts list are for the 5' so will need to be scaled down for the Deago, that's if they make 'em that size.

All the measurements are to fit the Deago and are as accurate as I could determine them using overlays of photos of the 5' and ref diagrams from Bandai to get positioning right.

-ANH maintenance bays.jpg
All measurements are in millimetres.
The grey rulers are in inches and were in the original ILM photos of the maintenance bays to show scale.
I left them in for reference but are reduced to 1/2 size at this scale, so 1" should equal 12.7mm.

some good reference here from Bandai-
http://bandaihobby.hatenablog.com/entry/2017/07/31/180000

and also t2sides and eagle1's 5' builds of the maintenance bays for reference-
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=282530&p=4331165&viewfull=1#post4331165
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=156436&page=13&p=4417057&viewfull=1#post4417057

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Hey David ,

Interesting and ambitious project you’ve set for yourself here . I wish you the best of luck and a successful build mate !
I’m still struggling to get certain components/aspects of my Deago MF ‘ reasonable ‘ as is :facepalm.

Not sure if you’ve heard of @ ianlawrencemodels.com - but he’s also building a ANH version of the Falcon from the stock Deago kit .
IIRC , he hadn’t altered the profile of the frame to make it more ‘ hamburger ‘ shaped , but he had replaced the maintenance pits , and altered the metal frame to do so .
Just thought he’d be worth checking out :D! ... His Deago MF work in progress ( WIP ) pg 15 is what I’m referring to .

Anyhoo , look forward to following your progress with this modification .

:cheersGed
 
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Thanks Ged.

Really like the Deago kit and the 32" as a model of the 5' Falcon but just love the detail in the 5'. Those guys did such an outstanding job back in the day.
It'll be a long refit to fully convert this to 90% of the 5' but that's just how I like my projects, always alive and 'in-progress' rather than static finished displays (that's my story anyway, I never do finish anything, or at least always see something I want to improve).

Yes I saw Ian Lawence's build a while ago, that's probably what got me started.

I'd like to eventually make a full interior too, complete with engine room, if I get time. Got a lot on at the moment but hoping to get a bunch of aftermarket extras in a few months so will have more to show then.
 
One of the many differences between the 5' Falcon and the 32" Falcon is that the upper and lower jaw-boxes, between the mandibles, are slightly thicker in height on the 32".
An interesting consequence of increasing the core height of the hull framing on the Deago is that the jaw-boxes now toe in toward each other.
So if I modify each one so that the inner surfaces lay horizontal again, by removing material from the sides and front, this will reduce the thickness on the ends to almost the same as the 5' (at 1/2 scale).

-jawbox mod.jpg
 
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Hey David ,

I was wondering what the knock on effects of ‘ raising ‘ the roof ( lowering the floor ) would be -so to speak ! .
Good news regarding the mandibles , but will you have to alter the sidewalls as well , considering where the framework will now meet them around the edge , at a ‘ steeper ‘ angle ?
Maybe the metal side frames will remain the same height , but would the sidewalls and rear engine panel have to be trimmed down ?

Ged
 
Yes, there definitely will be some modification needed to the interior.
All up there is 15mm more 'headroom' inside than before, so the floor supports will need raising by a few millimetres to keep everything inline with the cockpit tube corridor which remains unaffected by the changes on the cockpit end but will need new supports on the inboard end to make it sit horizontal. So there'll be at least another 5mm above the hold wall to fill in.
In my case I have the advantage of using the aluminium mounting plate as a new base to support the interior floors.
One good thing is there'll be a bit more room under the hold floor for those maintenance bays and or smugglers holes in the main corridor.

The thing about the Deago interior having low headroom is that there is the necessary addition of a ramp between the cockpit corridor and main corridor because of a height difference in the floors of about 11mm. This isn't in the full size sets, so I've been wondering how I could get rid of it, if possible. Now that there's the extra height above the hold I could reposition the hold and main corridor higher up to fit, as intended, directly under the roof. This will reduce any mods needed to the hold walls and also reduce the height diff between the corridor floors down to 4mm. What I would then do is make a new cockpit corridor tube from 50mm PVC pipe from the hardware store, paint it to match, and then fit it so it gently slopes down to meet flush with the main corridor without a step or ramp. A lot more mucking around, I know, but I'd be happy to do that if it meant eliminating the ramp and get the interior more accurate.

As for the sidewalls there's no change at all and no trimming needed.
I was able to fit all the parts back onto the frame without taking the top saucer off, so no worries there. One exception though, the wall between the mandibles: I had to take off the removable upper jawbox and roof part, attached with magnets, to fit the sidewall section in properly but then I was able to easily snap the jawbox back in place with no interference.

The rear engine panel will be fine too, but there is an issue with the framework not being attached together anywhere along the gap of the engine opening. Without anywhere for the top and bottom saucers to be connected here there is a slight arching up of the framework. I don't see it as a huge issue but something that will definitely need addressing when I get to it.. but just offhand I would guess I'll be using two long screws about 50-55mm long between the saucer frames behind the engine lights so I can finely adjust the gap between the saucers down to flatten out the arch and keep a uniform 28-29mm around the opening with hidden spacers.

So, yeah, whichever direction one takes with the interior there's a bit of work involved, depending on skill level and OCD, but all good fun.
 
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Hey, bwize.
You and me, both :)
The Deago's proving a dream to work with, so the more I get into it the more excited I am for the end result.

Your Deago build's coming along great too, btw. Its a great kit out-of-the-box but amazing how just adding a few extra 5' details lifts its appearance to another level of awesome.
 
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