X-wing Fighter 1/72 bandai on the kitchen table

gedmac66 said:

Guys , regarding the copper tape in lieu of wiring . This concept is completely new to me , thanks for sharing it .
I’ve got a few questions on it’s use , so if I can get some clarification on this I’d really appreciate it .
Is it only used with battery sourced power - due to the voltage ? ,
Could it be used with a wall adapter (9 - 12V) ? ,
Are there any safety issues regarding ( lack of ?) insulation around the tape itself or overheating ? Can you get an electric shock if touched ?:facepalm

Apologies in advance if these questions have already been asked/ answered elsewhere , but I’d rather ask them here from people who’ve experience with this alternative product firsthand already , and specifically used in the realm of modelling .

:cheersGed

Click to expand...

Hey Ged,
Can't say that I've ever used that either, first I'm hearing about it too. Seems like Socrates knows something of it. He's a lighting fanatic as well, and has dome some incredible stuff. I'd send him a message and see what he can tell you about it.

Cheers Brother! :cheers

Ged I haven't tried it with 12vdc but I don't see why it wouldn't work. That said, what are you going to use it to run power to? I'm using it just to power a few LEDs in those hard to get to areas. The rest of the build and LEDs I usually use magnet wire. I wouldn't think it should over heat, but that all depends on what you are powering and how much current it is pulling.

Here's how I do it, Socrates can chime in with his method...
I run the buss lines for + and - ... make sure to separate them and don't let them touch. At the ends I double back the copper tape a few times to make a small tab and then I use my pin vise to drill a hole in the tab. That's where you'll solder your wire that goes to your power supply and on the other end to your load. You can even make a few tabs and stick them along the copper tape buss line, it is conductive on both sides. This way you have some tabs you can run other lights from. Use a little bit of CA glue at the ends, edges of the tape, and where the tabs are to make sure everything stays down. I use extra thin CA for this because it flows better, then a spritz of Zip Kicker. Nothing has lifted yet!

If you are really concerned about something shorting out you can then use a paint brush and coat everything with liquid electrical tape. Maybe when I get some time I'll take an old model I have laying around and make a power bus and run a dozen or so LEDs from it and some LED tape and see how hot it gets, but for 3vdc for a couple LEDs I can guarantee it won't over heat and melt anything. I don't think I would use this for motors and servos, but it could work for that too.

BTW Socrates... are you the same Socrates that's over on the ScifiModelAction forum?

Thanks @whb64 .
That’s a good start to the how , what and why portion ... now we need some pics as well for dimwits like me !:lol ... if / when you’re so inclined to share some in the future of course ,

As to what I’m planning to possibly use it for ? , I’d originally planned to build an Echo Base diorama for my Deago MF ( started in 2016 ) back when I was more naive and idealistic about attempting such a thing .
That dream came crashing down (slowly) to earth when I finally realised that there’d be no room to place one , in my rather modestly sized home !... Didn’t stop me purchasing several kits for it along the way though did it - 3 x Bandai 1/48 Snowspeeders and 1 x FM X-wing , all to be included around the MF ! - my eyes were bigger than my stomach :rolleyes
So , long story short - I don’t have any immediate plans for subbing copper tape for hookup wire , but , if down the track I’m wanting to power several items like Ross here for diorama purposes , or a single jam - packed model from a more consistent power source ( wall adapter ) , would it be safe to do so ?

Again , any and all help / advice is greatly appreciated .

:cheersGed

yes it should be safe. This stuff is used in guitars for pickups and the electronics so I'd say it definitely can handle low current LEDs. One cool thing that it can be used for is to run it along the floor/base of a diorama and use it as a power buss you can tap into at various different places and not have to worry about hiding wires. I'm thinking in a hangar bay or something like that it could be used to create the yellow painted landing lines and 'parking' spots and things like that. It will still conduct even when painted because under the paint it's still copper. You can hide any tie in points with equipment and things like that.

Hello Everyone,

I am trying to get some advice on locating a few models, I am specifically looking for snow speeders in 1/72, I keep finding this model in other scales but not much in the way of 1/72. I was also curious if any makes an ATAT or ATST in 1/72?

Thanks for your help!

Airasys said:

Hello Everyone,

I am trying to get some advice on locating a few models, I am specifically looking for snow speeders in 1/72, I keep finding this model in other scales but not much in the way of 1/72. I was also curious if any makes an ATAT or ATST in 1/72?

Thanks for your help!

Click to expand...

Hey...it's ridiculous that Bandai doesn't make this stuff right. I got my 1/72 snow speeders from Ultimate Modelling Products. Just google that, you'll find it. What I don't like is, that these are resin kits and a bit sloppy. extreme care trimming the excess plastic has to be taken. And they seems to me to be a bit expensive for what they are. As far as an AT-AT, Revell makes a snap-tite that's close to 1/72...close enough anyway. But the head armor isn't quite right. Anylizer sent me a template for scratching up correction pieces, but I haven't built mine yet. The speeders yeah, for my Echo Base dio a couple years ago.

It was on a "wish lit" survey Bandai had sent out around the end of last year. They had a few different options like a motorized one and a proper 1/72 one

In the meantime, the Revell kit is your best option Is there 1/72 AT-AT model available?

This is not mine, but here is an amazing example of how you can accurize the Revell AT-AT W.I.P. Revell AT-AT

For a 1/72 Snowspeeder your current options are the RetroSF/RetroKit one

Not my listing, but ...
or the kit makers website

or the DiAgonstini one (a diecast display piece with no interior and blacked out canopy)
Not my listing, but ...