Thanks guys! I’m looking forward to getting him done soon and taking him to Heroes Con in June. Lots of work to do but quite happy so far.
Dr Doom Original Concept WIP (Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter SMP Designs
- Start date
Thanks guys! I’m looking forward to getting him done soon and taking him to Heroes Con in June. Lots of work to do but quite happy so far.
Ok, so I’m way behind on this thread - but that happens when Con season descends. I have loads of new pics and updates to write up and will soon, but here’s a quick pic of a test fit of some of the parts as the lights and paint come together. More soon!
I'm excited to see this, like MCU fans are excited to see Avengers: IW2
Thanks guys! I have so many pics to upload and write up and I'm trying to remember to get pics as I make the mad dash to the finish line on the build.
cwstandards
New Member
This has to be the absolute best Dr Doom cosplay I have ever seen ! Cannot wait to see the final pics !
Thank you! I debuted (or “launched” might be a better word) him at Heroes Con in Charlotte last week. There are pics on my Fb and Instagram of the finished costume. I’m just catching up and trying to carve time to finish the write up on all the rest of the pieces. Stay tuned...
OK, I am working my way through the rest of this write-up! This time, it's all about legs!
From where I left off, I decided to get moving on the legs in an effort to get all the major armor pieces assembled and pre-painted.
The thighs and shins were cut out, heat shaped and assembled. Once they were together, the details were added and all the decorative lines cut in using the same process as the rest of the pieces.
The backs of the shins were made as soft pieces to match the torso base and some of the other areas that will detail the suit. They were made by backing the metallic fabric with headliner foam and then adding 'straps' made of 2mm craft foam covered with metallic and sewn down. These pieces will fit over existing boots and the shin armor will fit over them.
This is basically what the legs will look like when together.
The next step was to PlastiDip and base paint the pieces.
The thighs were closed on the inside with wide straps. These straps were made by lining the silver material with headliner foam, binding the edges and then adding details made out of silver fabric and 2mm craft foam - just like the backs of the shins. These pieces were then contact cemented into the thighs.
To hold the thighs up, I created a wide elastic belt with clips on the sides. The belt rides up very high on the waist and is covered by the torso piece. When the thighs are clipped on, they stay at the right height and have quite a bit of movement.
Once the thighs were done, I needed to build the feet. I used a base pair of boots and created a tape pattern of them from the ankle down. This pattern served as a base to create both the templates for the foam pieces as well as the foundation pieces that would cover the boots.
Since I wanted to be able to use these boots for other projects, I didn't want to have anything permanently attached to them.
I made the foundation piece first out of silver fabric backed with headliner foam. All of the craft foam pieces of the foot will be attached to this piece and it will simply slip over the boot like a spat.
Next, using the pattern, I made paper templates for the foam pieces, tested them, trimmed and adjusted until they fit. Here are the finished foam pieces, 3 for each foot - toe, upper and heel.
The pieces were coated with Plasti Dip, contact cemented to the foundation piece and then base coated with silver paint.
The next stage of the legs was to attach the shins to the calves. The soft calf piece was contact cemented to the shins on the outside and a series of snaps added to the inseam area so that they could be opened and closed.
All of the pieces were then airbrushed and detail painted by hand. Here are the boots fully assembled.
And here is a test fit of the entire leg together.
Next up - hands, cape and finishing up. Stay tuned!
From where I left off, I decided to get moving on the legs in an effort to get all the major armor pieces assembled and pre-painted.
The thighs and shins were cut out, heat shaped and assembled. Once they were together, the details were added and all the decorative lines cut in using the same process as the rest of the pieces.
The backs of the shins were made as soft pieces to match the torso base and some of the other areas that will detail the suit. They were made by backing the metallic fabric with headliner foam and then adding 'straps' made of 2mm craft foam covered with metallic and sewn down. These pieces will fit over existing boots and the shin armor will fit over them.
This is basically what the legs will look like when together.
The next step was to PlastiDip and base paint the pieces.
The thighs were closed on the inside with wide straps. These straps were made by lining the silver material with headliner foam, binding the edges and then adding details made out of silver fabric and 2mm craft foam - just like the backs of the shins. These pieces were then contact cemented into the thighs.
To hold the thighs up, I created a wide elastic belt with clips on the sides. The belt rides up very high on the waist and is covered by the torso piece. When the thighs are clipped on, they stay at the right height and have quite a bit of movement.
Once the thighs were done, I needed to build the feet. I used a base pair of boots and created a tape pattern of them from the ankle down. This pattern served as a base to create both the templates for the foam pieces as well as the foundation pieces that would cover the boots.
Since I wanted to be able to use these boots for other projects, I didn't want to have anything permanently attached to them.
I made the foundation piece first out of silver fabric backed with headliner foam. All of the craft foam pieces of the foot will be attached to this piece and it will simply slip over the boot like a spat.
Next, using the pattern, I made paper templates for the foam pieces, tested them, trimmed and adjusted until they fit. Here are the finished foam pieces, 3 for each foot - toe, upper and heel.
The pieces were coated with Plasti Dip, contact cemented to the foundation piece and then base coated with silver paint.
The next stage of the legs was to attach the shins to the calves. The soft calf piece was contact cemented to the shins on the outside and a series of snaps added to the inseam area so that they could be opened and closed.
All of the pieces were then airbrushed and detail painted by hand. Here are the boots fully assembled.
And here is a test fit of the entire leg together.
Next up - hands, cape and finishing up. Stay tuned!
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Thanks! I've got some more of the write up together and will be posting soon - stay tuned!
Picking up where I left off... With the legs complete, the last parts of the armor that needed to be assembled were the hands.
I started by tracing out my hand on paper and made templates for the foam pieces that would cover the gloves. These are the templates for the back of the hand and what would cover the palm.
For the base of the hands, I used some thin costume gloves I had to hand (no pun intended) at the studio. I cut them to about mid-forearm and began working up the templates.
I knew I wanted to leave the underside of my had uncovered by foam so that I would be able to hold things and also make a (sort of) fist for posing. So, while the pieces do wrap around to my palm, most of the underside is just the thin glove. This image shows the pieces after being cut. They are only taped to the glove at this point to test the fit.
Once I got all the pieces cut, heat formed and detailed, they were all glued to the base glove. The fingers, as I mentioned above, only cover the top of my fingers and wrap about halfway around.
Once completely assembled, the gloves were put on my form's hands and the entire pieces were Plasti Dipped (glove and all) and painted.
For the paint, I base painted all the armor with Rustoleum Black Stainless Steel to give it a nice dark metallic undercoat. That was then covered by a thin layer of Rustoleum Metallic Silver. I then masked off all the raised areas of all the pieces with blue painters' tape and airbrushed black into all the recesses as well as some gunmetal highlights.
After airbrushing, the tape was removed and all of the seam lines and grooves were detailed with black by hand along with the 'rivets'. I then went back over all the edges with a fine hobby brush and bright silver Testors model paint to create highlights and 'scratches'. Once all the paint was finished, I coated all the pieces with gloss Mod Podge to level it all out and seal it.
The lights, mentioned all the way at the top of the thread, were installed by cutting pieces of 2mm craft foam and pushing the lights through to create a base.
Each light, on it's base was glued into place from the back of the armor piece into its hole. I then needed to diffuse the light and give the bulb a very solid anchor. I decided to go back and fill in each hole (with the bulb already in it) with hot glue. Here is an image of my test for this method. It worked very well and did not damage the bulbs at all.
Here are some of the pieces after being detailed and with their lights installed.
I made a simple pant/shirt base suit out of the silver stretch fabric and was finally able to do a test suit-up in all of the armor.
Next up - finishing the cape and attaching all the soft parts.
I started by tracing out my hand on paper and made templates for the foam pieces that would cover the gloves. These are the templates for the back of the hand and what would cover the palm.
For the base of the hands, I used some thin costume gloves I had to hand (no pun intended) at the studio. I cut them to about mid-forearm and began working up the templates.
I knew I wanted to leave the underside of my had uncovered by foam so that I would be able to hold things and also make a (sort of) fist for posing. So, while the pieces do wrap around to my palm, most of the underside is just the thin glove. This image shows the pieces after being cut. They are only taped to the glove at this point to test the fit.
Once I got all the pieces cut, heat formed and detailed, they were all glued to the base glove. The fingers, as I mentioned above, only cover the top of my fingers and wrap about halfway around.
Once completely assembled, the gloves were put on my form's hands and the entire pieces were Plasti Dipped (glove and all) and painted.
For the paint, I base painted all the armor with Rustoleum Black Stainless Steel to give it a nice dark metallic undercoat. That was then covered by a thin layer of Rustoleum Metallic Silver. I then masked off all the raised areas of all the pieces with blue painters' tape and airbrushed black into all the recesses as well as some gunmetal highlights.
After airbrushing, the tape was removed and all of the seam lines and grooves were detailed with black by hand along with the 'rivets'. I then went back over all the edges with a fine hobby brush and bright silver Testors model paint to create highlights and 'scratches'. Once all the paint was finished, I coated all the pieces with gloss Mod Podge to level it all out and seal it.
The lights, mentioned all the way at the top of the thread, were installed by cutting pieces of 2mm craft foam and pushing the lights through to create a base.
Each light, on it's base was glued into place from the back of the armor piece into its hole. I then needed to diffuse the light and give the bulb a very solid anchor. I decided to go back and fill in each hole (with the bulb already in it) with hot glue. Here is an image of my test for this method. It worked very well and did not damage the bulbs at all.
Here are some of the pieces after being detailed and with their lights installed.
I made a simple pant/shirt base suit out of the silver stretch fabric and was finally able to do a test suit-up in all of the armor.
Next up - finishing the cape and attaching all the soft parts.
Thanks man! The process is where I live - especially with a project like this - so many experimental techniques. I hope it's useful.
Thank you!
OK, guys - here's the wrap up!
With the costume mostly finished, it was time to tackle the cape. As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to structure the cape so that it stayed over the shoulders and had a very specific drape - like the MCU Loki and Thor capes.
I began by creating the base form for the cape that would provide a foundation. The foam piece was created at the same time as the vest and it needed to be covered to blend in with the rest of the costume.
The cape itself began as a flat back piece that was edged and lined. I then created side pieces that were attached to the back. The sides have the pleats that go over the shoulders sewn down and the side where they attach create deep folds toward the back as well as under the outer edges. This allows the cape to have a nice drape when still but plenty of fullness and 'billow' when in motion.
The covered foam piece fits inside the shoulder 'sleeves and then is attached to the chest armor. In order to keep the vest and cape secure, I embedded the posts from Chicago screws into the armor. The vest then screws onto one set and the cape to the other.
The discs attach to the front of the cape with velcro and cover the screws.
And, finally the complete costume!
With the costume mostly finished, it was time to tackle the cape. As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to structure the cape so that it stayed over the shoulders and had a very specific drape - like the MCU Loki and Thor capes.
I began by creating the base form for the cape that would provide a foundation. The foam piece was created at the same time as the vest and it needed to be covered to blend in with the rest of the costume.
The cape itself began as a flat back piece that was edged and lined. I then created side pieces that were attached to the back. The sides have the pleats that go over the shoulders sewn down and the side where they attach create deep folds toward the back as well as under the outer edges. This allows the cape to have a nice drape when still but plenty of fullness and 'billow' when in motion.
The covered foam piece fits inside the shoulder 'sleeves and then is attached to the chest armor. In order to keep the vest and cape secure, I embedded the posts from Chicago screws into the armor. The vest then screws onto one set and the cape to the other.
The discs attach to the front of the cape with velcro and cover the screws.
And, finally the complete costume!
George
Master Member
I'm nominating this the best RPF build for 2018 hands-down.Thank you for sharing this adventure with us
One question about gluing foam parts to actual gloves: if the glove is thin and/or stretchy such as spandex,I can imagine something needs to cover the mannequin because the glue will seep through.What would you recommend and/or how should I go about gluing foam parts to the glove? Thank you for your advice
One question about gluing foam parts to actual gloves: if the glove is thin and/or stretchy such as spandex,I can imagine something needs to cover the mannequin because the glue will seep through.What would you recommend and/or how should I go about gluing foam parts to the glove? Thank you for your advice
That is just awesome! It's better than anything they've come up with in the movies. Marvel should get you to design Doctor Doom when they get 20th Century Fox!!!
No words SMP Designs ........ except pretty much what George said. WOOW!
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Thank you! An adventure it truly was
As to the gloves, I did use hot glue to apply the pieces and it didn't seep through. I was very careful as I was afraid that would happen and I think I could have been a bit more liberal with the glue. The spandex costume gloves seemed to keep it to the surface pretty well.
I still have some of the scraps I cut off the gloves. I might just take a small piece and do some glue tests to see what seeps and what doesn't for future reference.
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Thanks guys! I appreciate the comments and you following the build
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