Obi-Wan Kenobi ANH lightsaber - a quest for dimensions

S Clark

New Member
Calling all owners of an 'authentic parts Obi-Wan Kenobi Lightsaber'. Like many others seeking to involve themselves in fandom and prop making, the Obi-Wan ANH lightsaber is a thing of beauty. Many people out there like myself has the skills to machine the parts needed, however we lack the knowledge regarding dimensions. Many attempts to provide dimensions have been made, including a fine example from @DARTHSABER. However, since that time we now have all the information regarding the original parts used and many people have wonderful examples as found on the 'Ultimate Ben Obi-Wan Kenobi Real Vintage Parts Lightsaber Group'. Unfortunately the dimensions initially produced have not been updated, resulting in inaccurate dimensions to base your props on.

My wish is that anyone with the information or an example of a real parts Obi-Wan and measuring equipment, could assist me in updating the dimensions to accurately reflect our new found knowledge. After completing this i wish to produce my own lightsaber based on real parts and accurate dimensions for everyone to enjoy.

So far i have experienced some wonderful help from @Sym-Cha & @roygilsing, BIG THANK YOU!

If you are in the position to aid me in my quest it would be much appreciated. So far I have some good dimensions regarding the Emitter (RR Derwent Balance Pipe)

Emitter Top View.pngEmitter Side View.png
 
What area are you located in? Maybe if there is someone local to you who has real parts, then you can arrange a meetup and take all the measurements you need. And I assume this is just to make yourself a saber, right? You're not going to start doing runs of parts, are you?
 
What area are you located in? Maybe if there is someone local to you who has real parts, then you can arrange a meetup and take all the measurements you need. And I assume this is just to make yourself a saber, right? You're not going to start doing runs of parts, are you?

I'm located in England. And no i'm not planning to make runs of parts, just a one off for the time being
 
Subscribed.


Although, I'd say that those drawings are missing some dimensions. Chamfer angles would be good, or at least the width of each side of them, not just one side leaving the rest to guess.


I'd be willing to help with Solidworks modeling and making real production drawings. I'm working on an ANH saber now too. It would be great to have real dimensions of the grenade too. Like the radius of the cutter used to make the cuts parallel to the axis to get the curved grooves.

Also thread sizes, graflex clamp material thickness etc.

I'm tired of there being so much secrecy with these parts, if you can't afford to buy them yourself. Share the knowledge guys! It's like the Han Solo Blaster page all over again.
 
Last edited:
I don't think its a matter of secrecy. You're asking someone to dedicate a lot of time to take detailed measurements and for what? How many people will actually take them to make an accurate saber just for themselves? Most likely the info will get into the hands of people who just want to profit from it. Plus, if all you're after is accurate replica parts, then just get them from Roman. Why reinvent the wheel? It will cost you far more in time and material to make them all from scratch in accurate detail.
 
I was under the impression that this community was about sharing knowledge.

People here dedicate a lot of time to this anyway. And “just buying it from Roman” will only profit him. Part of the hobby is building replica props, not just buying parts someone else has had made for us in China for way more than they are worth. There is a satisfaction to making it yourself.

Also, so what if the measurements go to people who want to make profit. Then everyone else gets better parts and people like Roman don’t have a monopoly on the parts, which will drive prices down. Capitalism is what we need around here. And I think there is some secrecy with this stuff as I don’t think the guys selling replica parts for $400US are going to be eager to kill their golden cow.

We just want measurements, I’m not sure why that’s reinventing the wheel, and so what if it is? Lots of people prefer to make and invent while others are happy to assemble. I’m the former. You are of course welcome to persue the hobby as you wish, but I’d prefer not to be told how I should persue it.

Sorry if any of that came out harsh sounding, I just want to make stuff.
 
hu, please talk for yourself for "capitalism is what we need"... seriously... I want to make stuff too, I don't what everything outsourced to china, prices going down by cutting corners and killing people in poorer countries.
 
I think you're really right to make your own stuff, this is how I made the best emitter, booster and pommel for now.
I would machine the grenade body too, but not able to do it anymore, so my actual frag body is a modified romans, brass parts are antique stuff.
Regarding emitter, I have measurments, in fact I have ideas about variation in size regarding the emitter, I think the original parts had size tolerences.
I remember the complete set we purchased back in 2013 had 56mm female and 54mm male diameter but I have no idea about the second engin parts, it would be funny to have different measurments, my bet is the average diameter is 55mm as this specific measurment is not important for proper working condition.
My idea is male and female rough are identical, then, depending on what is needed, they made male or female, depending on needs, and stocks.
This is how I was the first to create male conversion to female, at this time I was working ina machining workshop, and getting different parts from same rough was just a question of cost and efficiency.
I think the original prop emitter is probably a 56mm diameter female, I made a 55mm, and the rim is a bit narrower, so I think the right size is 56mm.
ID is 26mm, less or more (found 26 to 26,3mm on real stuff), then, there are from memory, 41, 43, someting like 37, I have to check my measurments.
The front groove depth is 2mm, all rounded, with quite large radius, not sharp like last romans versions.
The piece is made from 2 parts held together using heating and pressure, then machined together.
 
I was under the impression that this community was about sharing knowledge.

People here dedicate a lot of time to this anyway. And “just buying it from Roman” will only profit him. Part of the hobby is building replica props, not just buying parts someone else has had made for us in China for way more than they are worth. There is a satisfaction to making it yourself.

Also, so what if the measurements go to people who want to make profit. Then everyone else gets better parts and people like Roman don’t have a monopoly on the parts, which will drive prices down. Capitalism is what we need around here. And I think there is some secrecy with this stuff as I don’t think the guys selling replica parts for $400US are going to be eager to kill their golden cow.

We just want measurements, I’m not sure why that’s reinventing the wheel, and so what if it is? Lots of people prefer to make and invent while others are happy to assemble. I’m the former. You are of course welcome to persue the hobby as you wish, but I’d prefer not to be told how I should persue it.

Sorry if any of that came out harsh sounding, I just want to make stuff.

This. ^^^
 
When I made some solid emitters, from single piece of steel, I saw is the main groove is the hardest part to make, requiring a specific tool, and the groove is very deep, even on aluminum the tool may be weak and damage easiely, so I don't imagine how hard it would be to groove on inconel.
Here the two part piece makes sense.
However it's not like russrep or romans stuff, not stuck with a bit of glue, but held together by heating one of two parts, and using a press to fix together inner and outer pieces.
I think the very best deal to make a good replica is:
to machine from 316L steel because the color is very close to inconel.
You don't make the front final look, neither the front bezel but all other details.
Then,sandblasting everywhere
Then you put this baby to 1000°c and throw in oil
then you make the front face final machining, and large diameter bezel
then you put to 100°c and throw in oil
then after cleaning and protecting inner and groove with holes, soft sandblasting
you can repeat the operation.
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top