Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber?

This is a great thread! Thank you for starting it. It's quite easy to get overwhelmed by all the information that's out there.


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Okay-- all parts are in. As soon as I figure out how to build everything into place I can measure out my internal space and draw up a plan...

customFX.jpg
 
I’m taking suggestions of how to install the upper pieces into the lower body of in a way that still allows for electronics...
 
It's a Minicam D cell flash, with the clamp from a Canon X, @ScottD angersol channel grips along with some Starkiller style grips I found on Etsy, and a TCSS neck and emitter.

Normally to connect TCSS parts I'd use teflon tape to thicken up thr thread area, slide it in place, then tap some set screws in-- but now that I have to think about internal space for electronics, I'm having to get crafty...
 
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then tap some set screws in-- but now that I have to think about internal space for electronics, I'm having to get crafty...

So, use set screws that have been filed to length such that they bottom out at the interior diameter, and top out at the outer diameter. I see plenty of clever little holes that are ready to accept a clever little screw or two. And too, I see plenty of little screws that are already in place that could be replaced with slightly longer versions of themselves where the need arises. ;)

My 'uniformity-eye' doesn't know what to make of the flat U-channel bar in amongst the pretty curve-ended ones.

Is the end of the emitter heat-treated? If not, it's a great effect from the available lighting! I've been dreading, but wanting to try heat-treating my Roman's Mk1 emitter to have a ring of conical flame discolorations around its inner ring of burner holes. I think it'll make for an amazing real-life effect on an imaginary tool that will lend a sense of believability to the function of the object.

Oh, and I also see two rectangular entryways for some electronics connections. Think micro USB or 3-Pin 2.5mm/2.0mm micro header connectors a-la Yoda (Michael Murphy).
 
And this is NOT your Rey saber for the competition? [emoji1]

Nope! ... but that one is pretty awesome too!

So, use set screws that have been filed to length such that they bottom out at the interior diameter, and top out at the outer diameter.

That will definitely work where I am layering thicker parts. The grips though I'm not sure since the thickness of the body isn't much.

I see plenty of clever little holes that are ready to accept a clever little screw or two. And too, I see plenty of little screws that are already in place that could be replaced with slightly longer versions of themselves where the need arises.

I'm thinking the same thing-- I'm making a plan for that right now.

My 'uniformity-eye' doesn't know what to make of the flat U-channel bar in amongst the pretty curve-ended ones.

I like the non-uniformity. I like a little asymmetry here and there. Makes it feel more slipshod OT style to me.

Is the end of the emitter heat-treated? If not, it's a great effect from the available lighting!

Nope! Just matte spray-paint with V2 style weathering. I plan to do the upper emitter the same way.

Oh, and I also see two rectangular entryways for some electronics connections. Think micro USB or 3-Pin 2.5mm/2.0mm micro header connectors a-la Yoda (Michael Murphy).

There's actually SIX of them, Heiland/MPP style.
 
That is a killer design. Like I said elsewhere, it reminds me of an OT Windu saber.

Also, marking this thread for future reference.
 
Wow, this is coming along quite nicely! I'm going to have to look into those Cannon flash tubes. Liking the odd ball grips as well! Sets it off...

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My fault! I'm on a show right now, which completely consumes my time and energy. When I work at home I break up
my days with saberin'. That's not happening right now :(

Also waiting on TCSS to get the board I want back in stock. Once that happens and this show wraps, this is my priority! (After a month recovering in Palm Springs or something.)
 
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