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  1. SethS's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2018, 11:02 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #26

    I recognize your post as English, but I only understood a fraction of it.
  2. SethS's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2018, 11:45 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #27

    tomleech said: View Post
    I'd say Prizm's probably overkill, more complex and expensive than a nano
    18650 battery is ideal
    NECree is just Naigon's name for his RGB Tri Cree XPE2, if he wants single colour or purple I think he'd be better off doubling up a colour and having the third die available if he wants to add FoC later
    TCSS sells led momentary tact switches in a variety of colours
    Yup, 28mm speaker
    Make sure you get wire that can handle 2A for the LED wires
    Make sure you get an ESD safe soldering iron.
    Okay-- just looking at TCSS parts...

    Do I need an LED driver, or is that for bigger things than what I need?
    Should I get one of the units where the LED and heat sync are already together?
    Do I want 12 or 16mm switches? What's the difference between momentary and latching?
    Do I need a speaker mount, or will a chassis take care of that?
  3. ARKM's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 12:21 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #28

    halliwax said: View Post
    @tomleech, hey tom i am in need of a new soldering iron. i see a lot of guys using this model

    https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-...soldering+iron

    do you know is this is EDS? there is also a bunch of fake hakko's out there, anywhere we can purchase real ones with confidence?
    I'm a different Tom but I'll answer that for ya. I have that very one ordered from that very place. Obi-Shane recommended it to me and it works great If it states that it is "Fulfilled by Amazon" then you should be ok as that means Amazon has it at one of their distribution warehouses so in theory, it should be legit. Yes, it is ESD safe.
  4. ARKM's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 12:28 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #29

    SethS said: View Post
    Okay-- just looking at TCSS parts...

    Do I need an LED driver, or is that for bigger things than what I need?
    Should I get one of the units where the LED and heat sync are already together?
    Do I want 12 or 16mm switches? What's the difference between momentary and latching?
    Do I need a speaker mount, or will a chassis take care of that?
    You do not need an LED driver. That is only for sabers with no sound.

    Yes, get an LED/heat sink module. If you go with a non-MHS blade holder than get a non-MHS LED/heat sink module like the 1" dia. one that TCSS sells for example.

    12mm and 16mm refers to the diameter size of the switch so use what will fit where you want it to go. Latching is mostly for sabers with no sound and 99.9% of soundboards support momentary. Go with momentary.

    If you get a 3D printed chassis with a speaker mount built in, you're all set, otherwise you might want to get one from TCSS.
    Last edited by ARKM; Jan 14, 2018 at 1:26 AM.
  5. SethS's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 12:42 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #30

    Thanks!
  6. RPF Premium Member
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    Jan 14, 2018, 1:07 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #31

    You should look into neopixel sabers as well. I won't go back to in hilt led's. They are brighter and actually quite easy to install.
  7. RPF Premium Member roygilsing's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 6:05 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #32

    Thanks Seth, for starting this thread. I'll be following this with great interest too! I see so many great (electronic) builds lately, especially in the various Facebook groups and I think I want to dive into this world myself soon! I just watched Khal's (KR sabers) youtube video about building your own LED strip blade and that looks interesting as well. Although I'd like to light up a saber even without blade too. I'm not sure if I want to attach a blade to mine at all; maybe just sound and light from a blade plug would be enough.
  8. MakBzh's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 6:46 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #33

    Thanks SethS. Following this with interest too

    Envoyé de mon SM-G930F en utilisant Tapatalk
  9. ikevin1138's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 7:36 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #34

    I will throw in my 2 cents as someone who just built a Graflex 2.0 and K4 having zero experience with doing anything like this before. I had some enrty level prebuilt sabers in the past that just did not do it for me and after doing a lot of reading I decided to give it a go on my own. Did not even own a solder prior to building these.

    For budget and beginers build purposes I went with the NEC Spark 2 board partnered with his NECCree RGB. The chassis are Goth’s Padawan versions and the rest of the parts are the standard 30g wire, battery, speaker and recharge ports. I build a spread sheet of all my parts needed and where to get them, a hold over from building R2, and then went shopping.

    I went with the NEC due to what I felt in all my research was a really straight forward wiring for what I was looking for. Sound, Blade, FOC and Blaster effects. Scott has some really great documentaion for the boards that made it VERY easy to solder and he offers wonderful support along with it. His LED does not require resitors, one less thing to wire, which as a first build suited me just fine. The board does all the effects I wanted with simple wiring and holds 3 “font” options for color and sound changes. His interface for loading fonts and dialing in your saber is super easy to use and really opens up the options for the end user. Over all the features you get in this “entry” board for the money are spectaculer.

    I wanted mostly shelf sitters with all the neat effects and got all of that with the NEC set up but more importantly the satisfacion of building my own sabers.

    I had my doubts in my own ability to pull these off when I started but after doing it, I have a bench of empty hilts ready to go. My advice get a good soldering station, the money my expensive up front but its worh it in the end, I got the Hakko one mentioned here and I love it, and it will serve me for much more than just saber builds.

    TLDR version. Check out http://www.saberigniter.com/ for anyone looking to build a saber for the first time.



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    Jan 14, 2018, 9:15 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #35

    halliwax said: View Post
    anywhere we can purchase real ones with confidence?
    Ummm..... Post #4. Lowest price, FREE Shipping, FREE Solder (leaded though), ABSOLUTELY REAL HAKKO!

    And you're paying double for your wire, check out navships ebay link in Post #12.
  11. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 10:32 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #36

    Ridire Firean said: View Post
    Ummm..... Post #4. Lowest price, FREE Shipping, FREE Solder (leaded though), ABSOLUTELY REAL HAKKO!

    And you're paying double for your wire, check out navships ebay link in Post #12.
    totally freak'n missed your post about the hakko! is that the site you ordered yours from?

    also with the wire, i am a little confused (story of my life) it says its 50ft assortment.(totaling 50ft all together right?) the wire im buying is 25ft on each roll? i already bought every color in 30g, and a extra roll of red and black in 28g for the battery leads
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    Jan 14, 2018, 10:50 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #37

    Speaking of solder and wire, @SethS ! If you don't have one, it would be a good idea to pick up a Smoke Absorbing Fan of some sort.

    https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...ds=243-1189-nd

    Digikey doesn't have the best price on this right now, but if you compile your shopping list before you randomly order from wherever, you'll be able to compare overall pricing and get what you need from who has what at the best prices.


    If you want to use Lead-FREE solder, I use these two...

    ChipQuik #SMDSWLF.020 1oz. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1OZ-ND/2177056

    MG Chemicals #4900-35G 0.6oz. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/4900-35g.html


    MG Chemicals also makes desoldering wick called 'SUPER WICK' in different widths. 0.025" and 0.050". Think of solder wick as your lead eraser for when you flub your soldering welds.

    https://www.circuitspecialists.com/424-lf.html

    https://www.circuitspecialists.com/423-white.html


    And if you need wire strippers...

    https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=pa70057-nd


    And a set of helping hands are always... helpful...

    Tekton Helping Hands with Magnifier #7521 I got mine for $9.99 or so from my local hobby shop.
  13. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 10:56 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #38

    is there a big difference between lead, and lead free? here in mass its impossible to find lead solder anymore when working with plumbing.... i dont know about the electronics community here...

    when you go lead free, do you need a special flux, or does your normal flux also work with lead free?
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    Jan 14, 2018, 11:51 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #39

    Hey @halliwax ! Yes, https://www.tequipment.net/ was the lowest price back then too and it was a pleasant purchasing experience!

    Yes, the link I put up for the 28 AWG wire assortment is for 50' of wire in total. More than enough to wire several lightsabers.

    I compared his 25' 28 AWG wire at $4.36 to the $10.34 at powerwerx when you posted their link and was like .

    navships has several other gauges of wire if you click on "See other items".

    For an assortment of 30AWG...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-AWG-Silv...wAAOSwlMFZLvPb

    ... navships is $0.01 more per 25' length but $1.54 less for shipping, so you're saving $1.49 if you were buying 5 bundles of wire.

    Everything from him is sent via USPS in a bubble envelope and arrives fairly quickly depending on USPS.


    I know the GOTH-3D Chassis requires 30 AWG, but I'm making my own Chassis and Crystal Chamber, so I'm using the 28AWG. I had a line on some 28 AWG that was striped the way I wanted, had the higher 19 strand count, wasn't too expensive, but the quantity was 100' minimum with no returns and they wouldn't even send me a simple 6" length of wire in a regular old sealed envelope to allow me to make certain that it was thin enough to fit into where I need it to before I placed my order. Anywho, that's when I started looking for recommendations and navships was the guy that everyone was pointing towards, so I got my wires from him. He has 100% positive reviews on eBay.


    As far as fluxes go, it's the formula for what it's to be used with, LEADED or LEAD-FREE. Here's a quick article...

    https://www.itri.co.uk/solders/news-...e-a-difference

    I don't think Rob and Irv ever even mention flux now that I think about it. I didn't get any when I ordered all my soldering equiptment. I'll have to revisit their Youtube videos to double check!


    Depending on who you talk to, LEADED solder is easier to work with because it has a lower melting/flow temperature than LEAD-FREE. I think it all boils down to experience with a certain product/technique. I chose to order all LEAD-FREE solders and solder pastes so that I don't have to worry about poisoning myself or anyone that ever handles my lightsaber. I just feel more comfortable health-safety-wise with LEAD-FREE and I'm going to have to practice soldering a lot anyway before I set iron to CFv8, so why not learn with something that's safer?!

    p.s. Not having LEADED solder for your water pipes is a GREAT THING!

    OH! And seriously! If you have flux with a brush or whatnot that has come into contact with LEADED solder, you may have contaminated that container of flux, so it'd be a good idea to get a new batch of flux for LEAD-FREE ONLY USE!
  15. RPF Premium Member
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    Jan 14, 2018, 11:52 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #40

    You can use a flux core sodder specific for soldering electronics. That's what I use
  16. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 11:59 AM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #41

    Ridire Firean said: View Post
    Hey @halliwax ! Yes, https://www.tequipment.net/ was the lowest price back then too and it was a pleasant purchasing experience!

    Yes, the link I put up for the 28 AWG wire assortment is for 50' of wire in total. More than enough to wire several lightsabers.

    I compared his 25' 28 AWG wire at $4.36 to the $10.34 at powerwerx when you posted their link and was like .

    navships has several other gauges of wire if you click on "See other items".

    For an assortment of 30AWG...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-AWG-Silv...wAAOSwlMFZLvPb

    ... navships is $0.01 more per 25' length but $1.54 less for shipping, so you're saving $1.49 if you were buying 5 bundles of wire.

    Everything from him is sent via USPS in a bubble envelope and arrives fairly quickly depending on USPS.


    I know the GOTH-3D Chassis requires 30 AWG, but I'm making my own Chassis and Crystal Chamber, so I'm using the 28AWG. I had a line on some 28 AWG that was striped the way I wanted, had the higher 19 strand count, wasn't too expensive, but the quantity was 100' minimum with no returns and they wouldn't even send me a simple 6" length of wire in a regular old sealed envelope to allow me to make certain that it was thin enough to fit into where I need it to before I placed my order. Anywho, that's when I started looking for recommendations and navships was the guy that everyone was pointing towards, so I got my wires from him. He has 100% positive reviews on eBay.


    As far as fluxes go, it's the formula for what it's to be used with, LEADED or LEAD-FREE. Here's a quick article...

    https://www.itri.co.uk/solders/news-...e-a-difference

    I don't think Rob and Irv ever even mention flux now that I think about it. I didn't get any when I ordered all my soldering equiptment. I'll have to revisit their Youtube videos to double check!


    Depending on who you talk to, LEADED solder is easier to work with because it has a lower melting/flow temperature than LEAD-FREE. I think it all boils down to experience with a certain product/technique. I chose to order all LEAD-FREE solders and solder pastes so that I don't have to worry about poisoning myself or anyone that ever handles my lightsaber. I just feel more comfortable health-safety-wise with LEAD-FREE and I'm going to have to practice soldering a lot anyway before I set iron to CFv8, so why not learn with something that's safer?!

    p.s. Not having LEADED solder for your water pipes is a GREAT THING!

    OH! And seriously! If you have flux with a brush or whatnot that has come into contact with LEADED solder, you may have contaminated that container of flux, so it'd be a good idea to get a new batch of flux for LEAD-FREE ONLY USE!
    if rob is east coast sabers, he mentions it in a few videos, i only know this because i binge watched his 2.0 series. shameem also swears by flux. i only know of flux because of all the plumbing and ac work ive done

    as for the lead free solder on water pipes, it doesnt bother me since all those pipes in the ground to get to my house are 200 year old lead and asbestos lol

    i agree with ya, lead free sucks to work with... and with joining copper it sucks....

    really appreciate the info, and links you have supplied. if i didnt already order my wiring i would have gone your eBay route... my buddy wants me to do a few for him, so he covered the wire this time around
  17. Member Since
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    Jan 14, 2018, 12:09 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #42

    Nope, Rob is Rob Petkau aka MadCow from Genesis Custom Sabers and The Custom Saber Shop.


    Duh! I had to revist MG Chemicals website to remember this, the rosin/flux core is within the LEAD-FREE solder wire! No need for flux, that's why I didn't get any.

    HA! Looks like @REVANSSkywalker beat me to it while I was off trying to figure it out!
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    Jan 14, 2018, 1:01 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #43

    If you're still on the fence about a proper chassis, I can't tell you how helpful a real 3D printed chassis would have been for my first install. Not having one made the install 100% harder and required me to repair it afterwards. I really recommend a Goth 3Designs chassis from Shapeways, he has many options available and trust me it will be worth the extra few bucks.
  19. RPF Premium Member
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    Jan 14, 2018, 1:06 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #44

    You can use a flux core sodder specific for soldering electronics. That's what I use
  20. RPF Premium Member halliwax's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 1:18 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #45

    i really like Goth 3d design, his site has great step by steps on how to install them
  21. xl97's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 1:35 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #46

    You can also use the TCSS MHS builder app to test fit parts together..etc.

    **(doesnt work on cell phones as it requires Flash Player Plugin to work)

    Flux is not solder.
    You can use .015" diameter silver bearing solder (62/32/2) if you like.. works great.. solder many places like the old Radio Shacks..etc..


    As far as a core goes.. so many options.. its really whatever fits your design/budget..

    there are parts/chassis disks at TCSS or you can buy fully 3D printers ones..
  22. RPF Premium Member
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    Jan 14, 2018, 2:09 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #47

    As for what type of soddering iron to use. Go to ebay or Amazon and type in rework station. They
    come with a heat gun wich you WILL need to properly shrink heatshrink tubing. The one I have comes with a awesome iron with different tips. You want a small tip to soddering those tiny pads. Plus I spent 50 bucks on mine. It is a zeny 898D+. It is amazing!!!!
  23. SethS's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 2:13 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #48

    Ridire Firean said: View Post
    Speaking of solder and wire, @SethS ! If you don't have one, it would be a good idea to pick up a Smoke Absorbing Fan of some sort.
    I live in California, so my workshop is a covered spot outside in the fresh air.

    TheSaberCore said: View Post
    If you're still on the fence about a proper chassis, I can't tell you how helpful a real 3D printed chassis would have been for my first install. Not having one made the install 100% harder and required me to repair it afterwards. I really recommend a Goth 3Designs chassis from Shapeways, he has many options available and trust me it will be worth the extra few bucks.
    I think a simple chassis to hold everything in lace without being a fancy reveal is the way to go. That said, I'll have some details on the saber body, like grip screws, that will get into the inner space. Once I finalize the body design and get my internal space measured out I'll have an idea of what I need. Because it's going to be an assortment of body parts I'm sure the chassis will have to be custom as well.

    xl97 said: View Post
    You can also use the TCSS MHS builder app to test fit parts together..etc.
    I've played with it a ton-- but again, since I'm using vintage camera flash parts I'm winging the ID design a bit.

    New question-- when people do crystal reveals is a second LED used to light the crystal? I don't want to do a full on open up reveal saber, but my main body is likely going to be a Canon or Minicam flash. They both have a ring of plug ports like the MPP does, and it might be cool to have some glow lighting them up. If I use the Canon, there is a hole in the body mean for a dial I'll have to remove to make space for new guts-- it would be perfect for a peek into a crystal chamber without having to do an entire reveal style chassis.

    But if that requires wiring a second LED and figuring out extra resistors and junk, I don't need to do it my first time out.

    And thank you again to all of you for the great responses, videos, and shared experiences!
  24. RPF Premium Member tomleech's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2018, 2:24 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #49

    halliwax said: View Post
    @tomleech, hey tom i am in need of a new soldering iron. i see a lot of guys using this model

    https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-...soldering+iron

    do you know is this is EDS? there is also a bunch of fake hakko's out there, anywhere we can purchase real ones with confidence?
    Yeah that one would be fine, these two are what I use:

    This is the iron we use at work, it's better than my home one but fewer features:
    https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-1011...dp/B008BW9LX6/

    This is my home one, the rework heat gun is really useful and a bench power supply is pretty critical, perfect for measuring forward voltage to calculate resistance properly
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKX0JQA/

    SethS said: View Post
    Okay-- just looking at TCSS parts...

    Do I need an LED driver, or is that for bigger things than what I need?
    Should I get one of the units where the LED and heat sync are already together?
    Do I want 12 or 16mm switches? What's the difference between momentary and latching?
    Do I need a speaker mount, or will a chassis take care of that?
    You shouldn't need a driver if you're using a sound board
    I'd say order a Tri Cree XP E2 from the relevant area on TCSS, they'll custom make it for you with the right colours. The heat sink you'll need will depend on the flash you have and how you're going to mount a bladeholder.
    Switch size depends on what you want Depends again on the flash you want to use. Momentary switches just push in and out, connecting the wires 'for a moment', latching switches click into place and stay sunk in until you press it again, they keep the wires connected continuously.
    If I design you a chassis I will put a speaker mount in it
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    Jan 14, 2018, 2:27 PM - Re: Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber? #50

    xl97 said: View Post
    You can also use the TCSS MHS builder app to test fit parts together..etc.
    I keep hoping they'll add the MHS Chassis Parts to the Builder!


    SethS said: View Post
    I live in California, so my workshop is a covered spot outside in the fresh air.
    "COUGH" explitive! "COUGH"

    SethS said: View Post
    when people do crystal reveals is a second LED used to light the crystal? But if that requires wiring a second LED and figuring out extra resistors and junk, I don't need to do it my first time out.
    Yes, but once you figure out the first 3 for your Tri-CREE you'll be an old hand at it and that 4th little LED for the Crystal Chamber will be a breeze!

    SethS said: View Post
    And thank you again to all of you for the great responses, videos, and shared experiences!
    Closed-eye Yoda nod. "Pass on what you have learned." We're all having great fun helping you out! It's just a little thankyou for your efforts on the Lightsaber Guide.

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