Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecked?

Jm419

Sr Member
I'm looking for a source on a real Sterling SMG for an E-11 build, preferably non-firing to avoid the hassle. The parts kits I'm finding are totally trashed with sloppy torch cuts, and don't seem worth the effort to rebuild. Is there a source for a demilled Sterling that isn't $800 and isn't torched to hell?

I'm aware of the Evike airsoft guns. If you have one you'd be willing to part with, built or not, shoot me a PM and we can discuss it. I'm not excited about waiting two months for Evike to restock.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I'm looking for a source on a real Sterling SMG for an E-11 build, preferably non-firing to avoid the hassle. The parts kits I'm finding are totally trashed with sloppy torch cuts, and don't seem worth the effort to rebuild. Is there a source for a demilled Sterling that isn't $800 and isn't torched to hell?

The sloppy torch cuts are required by the ATF (in the US anyway). In order to sell a machine gun parts kit, the receiver must be destroyed to prevent it from being reassembled. In the past, it was done with a band saw but, that was deemed too easy to repair, hence the filthy torch cutting. Since they're imported, they also have to torch or drill the barrels to make them unusable as well. We're lucky we're "allowed" what we get. :unsure
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I've been in intermittent discussion with a metal fabricator who does what's called forward flow forming, which is how the main receiver tube was made, and what none of the replicas do. It takes the sheet of metal and shapes it down into a cylinder that's got a closed, flat bottom. That was then drilled out where appropriate for the Sterling muzzle piece to get screwed on, and the barrel to pass through. So for people who want accuracy, it's never going to be all the way there when the front piece of the receiver tube is separate from the tube itself. One has to round the edge and hide the seam. If one is painting the gun, that's more or less okay, but if one is chemically bluing or anodizing it (depending on the metal), it won't affect the seam or any fillers. Plus that will always be a weak point.

I'm trying to get all the pricing options for forward flow formed replica receivers in various metals of the right length, that the end prop-maker would have to drill and cut all the openings out of and attach the various lugs and shrouds and such on their own. I was just going to ask for pricing for the couple that I wanted. I can, should folks be interested, ask about larger quantites. Inspired by Field Marshall, I was leaning toward aluminum. It's lighter, and it can be anodized black to match the same anodized tone of his Sterling pieces. I don't know if he was planning to do forward flow formed receiver tubes, himself. I'll have to ask...

--Jonah
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I've been in intermittent discussion with a metal fabricator who does what's called forward flow forming, which is how the main receiver tube was made, and what none of the replicas do. It takes the sheet of metal and shapes it down into a cylinder that's got a closed, flat bottom. That was then drilled out where appropriate for the Sterling muzzle piece to get screwed on, and the barrel to pass through. So for people who want accuracy, it's never going to be all the way there when the front piece of the receiver tube is separate from the tube itself. One has to round the edge and hide the seam. If one is painting the gun, that's more or less okay, but if one is chemically bluing or anodizing it (depending on the metal), it won't affect the seam or any fillers. Plus that will always be a weak point.

I'm trying to get all the pricing options for forward flow formed replica receivers in various metals of the right length, that the end prop-maker would have to drill and cut all the openings out of and attach the various lugs and shrouds and such on their own. I was just going to ask for pricing for the couple that I wanted. I can, should folks be interested, ask about larger quantites. Inspired by Field Marshall, I was leaning toward aluminum. It's lighter, and it can be anodized black to match the same anodized tone of his Sterling pieces. I don't know if he was planning to do forward flow formed receiver tubes, himself. I'll have to ask...

--Jonah


A nice E11 is on my list of things to do...Myself, and I am sure many others would be interested in costs.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

A nice E11 is on my list of things to do...Myself, and I am sure many others would be interested in costs.

'Kay. I'll PM Field Marshall and get price quotes for both aluminum and the closest steel alloy to original (for the perfectionists and those with de-milled Sterlings they just need a new receiver for).
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I've been in intermittent discussion with a metal fabricator who does what's called forward flow forming, which is how the main receiver tube was made, and what none of the replicas do. It takes the sheet of metal and shapes it down into a cylinder that's got a closed, flat bottom. That was then drilled out where appropriate for the Sterling muzzle piece to get screwed on, and the barrel to pass through. So for people who want accuracy, it's never going to be all the way there when the front piece of the receiver tube is separate from the tube itself. One has to round the edge and hide the seam. If one is painting the gun, that's more or less okay, but if one is chemically bluing or anodizing it (depending on the metal), it won't affect the seam or any fillers. Plus that will always be a weak point.

I'm trying to get all the pricing options for forward flow formed replica receivers in various metals of the right length, that the end prop-maker would have to drill and cut all the openings out of and attach the various lugs and shrouds and such on their own. I was just going to ask for pricing for the couple that I wanted. I can, should folks be interested, ask about larger quantites. Inspired by Field Marshall, I was leaning toward aluminum. It's lighter, and it can be anodized black to match the same anodized tone of his Sterling pieces. I don't know if he was planning to do forward flow formed receiver tubes, himself. I'll have to ask...

--Jonah

Do you have a pic?

I had several Sterlings bead blasted to the bare metal and none had any kind of seam, which would indicate the "flow forming", you are referring to?!
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

Do you have a pic?

I had several Sterlings bead blasted to the bare metal and none had any kind of seam, which would indicate the "flow forming", you are referring to?!

He stated that the seam is visible on replicas because of them NOT being flow formed. The real deal does not have said seam.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

He stated that the seam is visible on replicas because of them NOT being flow formed. The real deal does not have said seam.


That's not how I read it: "... flow forming, which is how the main receiver tube was made, and what none of the replicas do...."
 
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Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

The part you quoted is accurate. Perhaps you meant to quote something else. Please read this part again...

"It takes the sheet of metal and shapes it down into a cylinder that's got a closed, flat bottom. That was then drilled out where appropriate for the Sterling muzzle piece to get screwed on, and the barrel to pass through. So for people who want accuracy, it's never going to be all the way there when the front piece of the receiver tube is separate from the tube itself. One has to round the edge and hide the seam. If one is painting the gun, that's more or less okay, but if one is chemically bluing or anodizing it (depending on the metal), it won't affect the seam or any fillers. Plus that will always be a weak point."

Here's where it abruptly changes from talking about the real deal to talking about replicas...

"So for people who want accuracy, it's never going to be all the way there when the front piece of the receiver tube is separate from the tube itself. One has to round the edge and hide the seam. If one is painting the gun, that's more or less okay, but if one is chemically bluing or anodizing it (depending on the metal), it won't affect the seam or any fillers. Plus that will always be a weak point."

I can see how one can be confused. However the first part where he is talking about the process of flow forming for the real deal, tends to indicate that it's one piece and therefore has no seam. Also, you may notice that the person who made the post we're talking about, has liked my original post so I think I got it right. *crosses fingers*
 
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Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

so I think he is describing how they make air bottles, also pop cans are made in the same method since the sterling tube is made out of MUCH stronger metal, this method may be some what different, not sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyumWUg_MXM



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAgSU6BCpsY
 
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Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

Yup. Flow forming has been used to make missile housings, ammunition cartridges, jet engine parts, and other military and aviation parts for decades. That included the Sterling L2A3 receiver tube. There are five holes drilled on the end of mine. The big one in the middle the barrel fits through, two smaller ones for the big hex screws that hold the barrel in place on the back side of the tube end, and two small ones for the smaller screws that hold the bayonet lug/muzzle piece in place.

But all of the replicas I've seen have an open tube for the receiver, with one approach or another for the endpiece, but all of them involving a separate piece in place of the contiguous tube-end, with the two steps of the lug then attached to it. Most without the two smallest screw-holes in said lug piece.

--Jonah
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

Well, that's interesting. I'll be curious how this works out.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I did contact the ATF about this some time ago and the email I got was quite lengthy. it involved welding the bolt to the reciever or to the barrel... I forget now but it was a way to re-construct one without breaking the law.

I've also been told by many that the ATF changes it's mind about what's legal and what the details are on a case by case basis.

Unless there's an already prepared legal deactivated l2a3 or I get documented proof of how to properly prepare one I've backed off a bit. :(

I do have a perfect M47 scope ready for a blaster, however it turns out.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I have one i'm not going to use its intact parts are welded in it.
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I did contact the ATF about this some time ago and the email I got was quite lengthy. it involved welding the bolt to the reciever or to the barrel... I forget now but it was a way to re-construct one without breaking the law.

I've also been told by many that the ATF changes it's mind about what's legal and what the details are on a case by case basis.

That's what I've heard. I got a supposedly demilled Sterling on here years ago and asked around because I wanted to make sure. I got five different answers from five different ATF agents...
 
Re: Does anyone have a source for demilled Sterling L2A3's that aren't totally wrecke

I missed these posts -

I bought an airsoft gun and I plan on finding some parts to rivet together. Like the grip frame and trigger group, end cap, etc. and none of the internals.

If anyone has parts like that, let me know!
 
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