Blade Runner 2049 Officer K badge wallet

I wouldnt think so. Can you scan your ID and print it out?

I pulled the image off the web, so I can definitely print it out. I was think about printing it on a transparent sheet and placing it against a white background, but I don’t know if the light would make some of the smaller characters less visible. I’ll give it a shot.
 
I hope you don't mind me chipping in on yor thread with a few photos of my WIP. I spent a long time looking though the various wallets on ebay to find one with just the right curve on the corner, stitching and window size. I found one I liked the look of, but only the NYPD mini shield version was listed. This wasn't too bad, as it would allow me to cut my own aperture to fit the Gecko badge. After waiting almost 3 weeks for it to arrive (seriously ebay? how can a letter-sized airmail parcel take that long from the US to the UK?) it finally arrived today, so I could make a start..

After the initial look-over it looked promising on size, so I taped up the badge panel, marked the centre line and placed the badge over so I could trace the outline (the X marks around the edges of the badge make it easy to line up with the centreline). I then put a new blade in the scalpel and set to work:
wallet1a.jpg

Sizing looks dead-on, and the badge is a nice snug fit. After the faux-suede flap had been removed it sunk in to almost level with the surface of the leather too. The next thing to look at was which phone backlight panel I need to go with - I had ones from an iPhone 5S and a 6s. The one in the picture is from the 5s, which looked like it would be the right one:
wallet2a.jpg

Again, a near perfect fit. The only issue is that to get the screen, the support PCB/power supply and battery in there is going to be tight. On the real prop it looks like they solved that by sandwiching an extra strip of leather along the edges on the ID side to make the 'pocket' wider, so I might have to do the same (maybe using foam rather than leather, which would be tough to line up new stitching holes through). The other option would be to carefully hollow out the back of the badge to get the battery and boost converter behind it.
 
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I don't mind at all! Very nicely done!! That's look I'm going for in my version 2.0. How are you going get the screen to produce the badge? It's just a screen right?
 
I hope you don't mind me chipping in on yor thread with a few photos of my WIP. I spent a long time looking though the various wallets on ebay to find one with just the right curve on the corner, stitching and window size. I found one I liked the look of, but only the NYPD mini shield version was listed. This wasn't too bad, as it would allow me to cut my own aperture to fit the Gecko badge. After waiting almost 3 weeks for it to arrive (seriously ebay? how can a letter-sized airmail parcel take that long from the US to the UK?) it finally arrived today, so I could make a start..

After the initial look-over it looked promising on size, so I taped up the badge panel, marked the centre line and placed the badge over so I could trace the outline (the X marks around the edges of the badge make it easy to line up with the centreline). I then put a new blade in the scalpel and set to work:
View attachment 789626

Sizing looks dead-on, and the badge is a nice snug fit. After the faux-suede flap had been removed it sunk in to almost level with the surface of the leather too. The next thing to look at was which phone backlight panel I need to go with - I had ones from an iPhone 5S and a 6s. The one in the picture is from the 5s, which looked like it would be the right one:
View attachment 789627

Again, a near perfect fit. The only issue is that to get the screen, the support PCB/power supply and battery in there is going to be tight. On the real prop it looks like they solved that by sandwiching an extra strip of leather along the edges on the ID side to make the 'pocket' wider, so I might have to do the same (maybe using foam rather than leather, which would be tough to line up new stitching holes through). The other option would be to carefully hollow out the back of the badge to get the battery and boost converter behind it.

Can you post the link to the wallet?
 
I don't mind at all! Very nicely done!! That's look I'm going for in my version 2.0. How are you going get the screen to produce the badge? It's just a screen right?
Cheers. It's not even a screen, it's just the plastic backlight panel that fits behind the phone screen. The real prop appears to have the ID printed on transparent film sitting in front of a backlight panel (the silvery background is the give-away to this - it's the mylar mirror sheet viewed though the frosted diffuser), which is why it was still visible on the SDCC display and art book picture even though it's not powered up. i'm just attempting to recreate the same effect. The actual working LCD display on yours is probably more realistic to how it would be achieved 'for real' in the BR2049 universe though.

The wallet came from ebay seller mdelvek713. He sells a number of variations of the 'NYPD Mini Shield' wallet, it's the ones without the embossed gold title on the inside you want They do all have 'Genuine Leather' embossed on the back (without ink though), but that's less of a problem.
Edit: forgot to mention, if you are in the US the wallet supplier has their own website so you can avoid using ebay if you want:
https://mikespoliceequipment.com/
This is the wallet that I bought:
https://mikespoliceequipment.com/co...olice-officer-plain-mini-shield-and-id-wallet
 
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I just ordered some backlit screens for the iPhone 5S. I’m going to test that out. I’m getting some thicker vinyl tomorrow to finish the prototype.
 
Cheers. It's not even a screen, it's just the plastic backlight panel that fits behind the phone screen. The real prop appears to have the ID printed on transparent film sitting in front of a backlight panel

How would one go about powering that sort of panel? Looking for info on sourcing parts and putting it together.
 
Here's my V1 using an EL panel. Panel needs trimmed, ID badge is not finished and needs enlarged, plastic sleeve is just cut from a polythene ziplock bag and glued under the frames using E6000.

I'll wait and see how your final LCDs turn out before I go that route :)
badge closed.jpg


badge off.jpg


badge on.jpg


badge on dark.jpg
 
You are too kind sir!!! Hey, how’s that holster coming along?
Slowly. I took the two muzzle-end 'cups' along to RS Propmasters (the guys who make the TK helmets and suits) the other day so see about getting castings made as I don't want to cut up the only existing Safariland 1090 in captivity

How would one go about powering that sort of panel? Looking for info on sourcing parts and putting it together.
See my post here:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=286303&p=4394067&viewfull=1#post4394067
It's not straightforward. The phone backlight has 2 series strings of 4 white LEDs in it and a tiny 3-pin ribbon cable (you will need a very fine soldering tip suitable for surface mount work and some very fine wire to connect to it). With the panel facing up and the edge connedtor at the bottom, the pins on the ribbon cable are (from left to right)
1) +12V Positive supply (common to both strings)
2) Negative supply (String 1)
3) Negative supply (String 2)
From my tests I think it's bright enough with 1 string lit (it hasn't got an LCD screen and polarising filters sat in front of it like it does in the phone), but you could try both (if you can get enough current from your supply).

I want to power it from a slim battery which limits me to 3V (like a CR2032 coin cell) so I needed a tiny 3V to 12V step-up/boost converter. I found this one from Pololu:
https://www.pololu.com/product/2117
It will power the LEDs from a CR2032 but the voltage drops to about 11V (as the battery can't source enough current) so the brightness drops a little. Putting 2 coin cells in series to give 6V might give a bit more headroom (the higher the supply voltage, the less current the converter has to draw to step up to 12V).

Normally you would have to current limit the LED supply so that it doesn't exceed 20mA and cause the LEDs to burn out. However I've got got any excess voltage to fit a current limiting resistor in the LED supply, but the batteries I'm looking at using only just deliver enough current at 3V to produce 20mA after being stepped up to 12V. I still wouldn't leave the LEDs turned on for extended periods though.
 
What about a rechargable 3.7v lithium polymer? 500mah goes as thin as 5mm and you don't need any kind of battery holder/clip.
 
What about a rechargable 3.7v lithium polymer? 500mah goes as thin as 5mm and you don't need any kind of battery holder/clip.
If I use a CR2032 it will be one with PCB mount tabs I can solder onto (or I'll make shim brass contacts) so I won't need a holder. I'm hoping to use a (non-rechargable) Lithium Manganese pouch cell though, like this:
s-l300.jpg
It's about 30mm square and only slightly thicker than a coin cell but has about about 3 times the mAh capacity, 100 times the continuous current draw and 10 times the times the peak current.draw.

The issue with current isn't the overall capacity of the battery, but what continuous current draw it's chemistry can support. A typical name branded CR2032 coin cell can only really support a max peak current draw of 30mA due to it's internal resistance (which is a function of the chemical reaction in the cell), and are rated for only 0.2mA continuous current draw. This limits the output of the boost converter but on the other hand keeps the current supplied ot the LEDs in the safe zone, so it's a bit of a 'swings and roundabouts' situation.
 
[URL said:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv142/kurtyboy2/props2/badge closed.jpg[/URL]

Question, does the plastic wrap all the way around the wallet? I think you can see the outside of the wallet when he closes it during the orphanage scene, but I've yet to confirm this. Does anyone know the answer?
 
Question, does the plastic wrap all the way around the wallet? I think you can see the outside of the wallet when he closes it during the orphanage scene, but I've yet to confirm this. Does anyone know the answer?

From the blu ray and brightened.:

00002[2018-01-26-01-46-04].JPG00002[2018-01-26-01-46-14].JPG00002[2018-01-26-01-46-27].JPG00002[2018-01-26-01-46-56].JPG00002[2018-01-26-01-47-16].JPG
 
If thats wrapping around, that makes making the actual wallet a bit easier.

I was thinking of sandwiching it in between the layers of leather. However wrapping it, makes things way simpler.
 
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