Resistance Crait Macrobinoculars / Neuro-Saav ND.621 Rangefinder (TLJ VD)

OK Opinions needed.
For this bottom plate, it's clearly covering up the sliding latch that opens the gate but still has a notch cut into it for some reason. But the notch is only about 1/3 as high as the sliding switch is. In your opinion does this entire plate fit down inside the metal framing? or is it laying on top of it? It looks like it's cut off flush at the top as you can see bare metal in the gap near the top arch so it's like they peeled the textured "leather" stuff off and added the plate. But thickness wise, it's hard to tell if it's laying on top of the frame or pressfit into it. I'm leaning towards it being on top because otherwise the sliding switch area would cause it to bow out and I can't imagine they'd make that decision. Also it looks like there are 4 bolts/caps/rivets on the bottom edge. Then there are what looks to be 3 visible on the top edge, but one is way down by itself in a weird spot. Ideas?
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I'm seeing something like this
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Damn it trent... I never noticed it like that until now..

Sure does look like a plate


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I agree that you can see the original backing plate at the top with the lining taken off. It looks to me that the new plate laps the edge of the old door frame 'encapsulating' it. In the top circle I see new plate lapped over and around the edge of the old plate edge covering it. The press fit option you describe.

In the bottom circle I then see the ribs butted up against the edge of the new plate lip?

(One thing I have learnt about this forum is how difficult it is to put into words what you think you are seeing !)




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I agree that you can see the original backing plate at the top with the lining taken off. It looks to me that the new plate laps the edge of the old door frame 'encapsulating' it. In the top circle I see new plate lapped over and around the edge of the old plate edge covering it. The press fit option you describe.

In the bottom circle I then see the ribs butted up against the edge of the new plate lip?

(One thing I have learnt about this forum is how difficult it is to put into words what you think you are seeing !)




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Yeah its definitely difficult to explain. Pictures do help.
Yes the grips need to extend all the way to the metal border (green arrows)
and the leather stuff needs to come off (remove in blue)
but my main question is whether the back plate is the dimensions of the leather (it'll sit down inside the border but would have to warp in the middle because of the height of the center sliding switch) or will sit on top of it (option A or option B)
Screen Shot 10-19-18 at 04.55 AM.PNG


And for the plate itself, should I make the rivets symmetrical? I would like to assume there's another one in the upper right corner covered by his thumb. The shape of this panel on the camera isn't square BTW, the left wall comes in at a slight angle so I've incorporated that into the panel. The right bottom corner is 90 degrees. the left bottom corner is acute by 2 degrees or so, making the top edge about 3 mm shorter than the bottom edge.
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And then there's the question of this little thing here. Is it another rivet just randomly stuck in that weird spot? Is it a different greeblie?
Should I leave it off, add it as another rivet? what do you think?
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Screen Shot 10-19-18 at 05.31 AM.PNG???
 
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The flanges around the caps could just be artifacts. I'll see if I can get alternative frames from the UHD 4K which is a task in itself using my hardware set up!
 
The flanges around the caps could just be artifacts. I'll see if I can get alternative frames from the UHD 4K which is a task in itself using my hardware set up!

Awesome. Yeah I'm not tied down to the look of them, just more trying to get an idea of positioning, sizing, etc. That would be great if you could get any additional shots.

Here’s a quick test print.
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OK I'm calling that set done. I threw it up on the JY if anyone wants it. I'm going to print the updated files and do a few more checks and I'll offer kits in my etsy or something if anyone wants 3D printed parts.

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The finished build looks awesome Trent, congrats & well done on all the screen accurate 3D modelling, I will differently be up for some parts :thumbsup
 
That’s a beauty! If I didn’t snag a camera last week this sucker would be mine


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Just received a sportster IV I the mail thanks to a certain member who shall remain nameless unless they specify otherwise.
Look how close I got on the trapezoid piece just from looking at these crappy screenshots. Lol I was quite pleased
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And here’s the revised kit. The viewer is much closer now. Correct length, depth, flare, lips, greeblies, etc.
and the other parts are all dialed in. The grips have been lengthened so they touch the metal frame border on the underside. Let me know if you see anything else that needs to be modified
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The Kit looks amazing Trent :thumbsup who was that super nice member who looked after you, those Sportster IV Cameras are like finding chicken teeth lol!!
 
I have to figure out how to get the hood to print reliably. It's a 4 hour print and with DLP printers you don't find out that there's anything wrong with it until it's completely done (since it grows upside down in the resin). I've started printing some sets but that one part is giving me some trouble. Once I get a few sets ready, I'll start a run.
 

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