1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

I had so much fun doing this one, I'm thinking I want to do another later in the year. I was giving some thought to this issue last night...What if, you were to take the lower panel that the bridge face attaches to, file it back, keeping the panel mating angle, then shave the two sides to match. then just file all the mating surfaces to match till it fit without any gaps? it would have to be precise and a bit at a time and rechecking, but that would achieve the goal, would it not?
edge10 said:
Yeah, the problem is not just that the bridge needs to be angled down, it's that the lines/angle of the neck are wrong. All the lines should be parallel with the top of the main hull, but instead the run parallel with the trench.

View attachment 789084

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=19630
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edge10 said:
Yeah, the problem is not just that the bridge needs to be angled down, it's that the lines/angle of the neck are wrong. All the lines should be parallel with the top of the main hull, but instead the run parallel with the trench.

View attachment 789084

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=19630
Click to expand...

Yeah... I'm not messing with correcting that. I already evaluated it - and unless I go full tilt with a total 3D printed neck and bridge face assembly - it's not worth the hassle on this build. Robiwon noted that when he corrected the bridge face angle on his first build that he sold, the neck panel details accentuated an off-kilter look.
 
Do you reckon my idea on post# 441 might work? If I'd thought of it sooner, I would have tried it. I've done a bit of precision filing when building AR15's and doing custom trigger work with the stock pieces so as to save a couple hundred bucks on buying the expensive drop in trigger assemblies, same result, less money...just a little time and good quality tools :thumbsup
INVAR said:
Yeah... I'm not messing with correcting that. I already evaluated it - and unless I go full tilt with a total 3D printed neck and bridge face assembly - it's not worth the hassle on this build. Robiwon noted that when he corrected the bridge face angle on his first build that he sold, the neck panel details accentuated an off-kilter look.
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Got the custom plaque from the trophy shop today, turned out great. I'll post pics in the AM...since my laptop always gets them cockeyed :wacko I think you guys will be pleased, as I think Robiwon would be as well...he's watching us :popcorn :thumbsup
 
Not sure what you guys are talking about re: the tower face angle- but then I haven't fully assembled the tower yet. In fact, I've just started to run my first FO in the tower. When I finish getting the majority in the front threaded in and sealed with Tulip, I'll assemble the tower and test fit it to the hull and maybe get a better clue of what you're talking about.

In regards tot he FO and drilled holes, again I have to compliment the OP. I consciously made a decision to stay away from too many windows/holes in a row and try to stagger them out more. I was concerned that 5 or 6 windows in a row would read more as a solid line of light at a distance, but that's not the case.

Also, since I'm not blooming the ends of the .25, these pins of light are small. Usually it ends up being two holes close together followed by a a lot space then another one; then three + a wide space and another one or two. In looking at the OPs photos, I really like the way it looks going with 5 or 6 windows in a row followed by space. Doing it that way also makes a much clearer sense of levels going on. I'm going to have to reevaluate all the light patterns I have in place now and probably drill some more holes.

I did find out that I'm not necessarily going to break a bit drilling through both the trench and the hull structure when both are in place. So rather than trying to hack out clear passages in the hull and then affix the outer deck panels, I'm just going to glue everything on ship and drill straight through for the rest.

Following the builds here does help, but a lot of this stuff comes down to practical experience. I almost want to buy another of these kits just because I'm learning now what to do, what not to do, and how I can do what I already did better. It would pay off in a much more streamlined and confident build next time.
 
I agree with all that, and you're right about the FO. I bloomed after paint and photos don't always come out right, not to mention some blooms can look different from the one right next to it, but all in all I'm good with the build. I want to get another one as well, it was a killer fun build and there's plenty I could have done better or different.
As far as the bridge face angle, look at some stills from the movie and then look at the kit. the face angle is too flat. I don't know exactly what the degree the angle should be, but it should be facing slightly downward and the kit isn't molded that way. So some guys have been trimming the tower slot where it slides into the super structure to correct for this error in the kit. I elected not to try for fear of jacking it up. Then of course, right after final assembly, I thought of what I was explaining in post #441. I know I could do it, I just wish I'd thought of it before it was too late to do it.
Miles Kendig said:
Not sure what you guys are talking about re: the tower face angle- but then I haven't fully assembled the tower yet. In fact, I've just started to run my first FO in the tower. When I finish getting the majority in the front threaded in and sealed with Tulip, I'll assemble the tower and test fit it to the hull and maybe get a better clue of what you're talking about.

In regards tot he FO and drilled holes, again I have to compliment the OP. I consciously made a decision to stay away from too many windows/holes in a row and try to stagger them out more. I was concerned that 5 or 6 windows in a row would read more as a solid line of light at a distance, but that's not the case.

Also, since I'm not blooming the ends of the .25, these pins of light are small. Usually it ends up being two holes close together followed by a a lot space then another one; then three + a wide space and another one or two. In looking at the OPs photos, I really like the way it looks going with 5 or 6 windows in a row followed by space. Doing it that way also makes a much clearer sense of levels going on. I'm going to have to reevaluate all the light patterns I have in place now and probably drill some more holes.

I did find out that I'm not necessarily going to break a bit drilling through both the trench and the hull structure when both are in place. So rather than trying to hack out clear passages in the hull and then affix the outer deck panels, I'm just going to glue everything on ship and drill straight through for the rest.

Following the builds here does help, but a lot of this stuff comes down to practical experience. I almost want to buy another of these kits just because I'm learning now what to do, what not to do, and how I can do what I already did better. It would pay off in a much more streamlined and confident build next time.
Click to expand...
 
ISDPLATE1.jpegISDPLATE2.jpegISDMF.jpegWell guys, here it is. I thought this wording was better than something memorialized. And of course, the Falcon stuck to the tower.
 
I almost forgot...post some pics brother, I'm interested to see what you have going on :thumbsup
Miles Kendig said:
Not sure what you guys are talking about re: the tower face angle- but then I haven't fully assembled the tower yet. In fact, I've just started to run my first FO in the tower. When I finish getting the majority in the front threaded in and sealed with Tulip, I'll assemble the tower and test fit it to the hull and maybe get a better clue of what you're talking about.

In regards tot he FO and drilled holes, again I have to compliment the OP. I consciously made a decision to stay away from too many windows/holes in a row and try to stagger them out more. I was concerned that 5 or 6 windows in a row would read more as a solid line of light at a distance, but that's not the case.

Also, since I'm not blooming the ends of the .25, these pins of light are small. Usually it ends up being two holes close together followed by a a lot space then another one; then three + a wide space and another one or two. In looking at the OPs photos, I really like the way it looks going with 5 or 6 windows in a row followed by space. Doing it that way also makes a much clearer sense of levels going on. I'm going to have to reevaluate all the light patterns I have in place now and probably drill some more holes.

I did find out that I'm not necessarily going to break a bit drilling through both the trench and the hull structure when both are in place. So rather than trying to hack out clear passages in the hull and then affix the outer deck panels, I'm just going to glue everything on ship and drill straight through for the rest.

Following the builds here does help, but a lot of this stuff comes down to practical experience. I almost want to buy another of these kits just because I'm learning now what to do, what not to do, and how I can do what I already did better. It would pay off in a much more streamlined and confident build next time.
Click to expand...
 
I love the Plaque......Where did you get it done?

I worked on correcting the bridge / tower angle by sanding the bottom edges of each slot and the horizontal lines on the tower are now parallel. Some of the vertical edges had to be sanded because they fit into tiny slots on the upper hull. I did a little at a time and had to go back and fourth sanding a little here and there until it fit. I did not do anything with the bridge/top section I just glued it to the tower. The tower originally was leaning down and by sanding the bottom edges I was able to raise it up. In the pictures you can see styrene strips the were added to fill those gap/seams. I also had to add to the bottom because when the angle of tower was raised up there was a space at the bottom. Weather this is correct to the ILM model or not it looks 100% better then it leaning forward to me anyway. I'm happy the way it turned out. I'm still thinking about changing the very bottom with the small vertical posts that wrap around the base. Since that whole sub-assembly is removable I can do that right before I prime/paint it.


20180117_073631smaller.jpg 20180117_073702smaller.jpg 20171122_120436smaller.jpg20171122_120441smaller.jpg 20171219_125550smaller.jpg 20171219_125522smaller.jpg






gt350pony66 said:
View attachment 789270View attachment 789271View attachment 789272Well guys, here it is. I thought this wording was better than something memorialized. And of course, the Falcon stuck to the tower.
Click to expand...
 
hey, now I can really see what you did with that gap at the tower base...now that looks REALLY good.:thumbsup I wish I could go back and do it, but it's too late now. You're quite a clever fella Escape :thumbsup I'm going to do another one later this year I think, and I will certainly follow your example. it's likely easier than filing where the bridge face goes.
I got the plaque at a local trophy shop. there's a guy there that's a modeler and he really liked the 2 projects I had plates made for. it was like 12 bucks and only took a couple days.
Escape068 said:
I love the Plaque......Where did you get it done?

I worked on correcting the bridge / tower angle by sanding the bottom edges of each slot and the horizontal lines on the tower are now parallel. Some of the vertical edges had to be sanded because they fit into tiny slots on the upper hull. I did a little at a time and had to go back and fourth sanding a little here and there until it fit. I did not do anything with the bridge/top section I just glued it to the tower. The tower originally was leaning down and by sanding the bottom edges I was able to raise it up. In the pictures you can see styrene strips the were added to fill those gap/seams. I also had to add to the bottom because when the angle of tower was raised up there was a space at the bottom. Weather this is correct to the ILM model or not it looks 100% better then it leaning forward to me anyway. I'm happy the way it turned out. I'm still thinking about changing the very bottom with the small vertical posts that wrap around the base. Since that whole sub-assembly is removable I can do that right before I prime/paint it.


View attachment 789280 View attachment 789281 View attachment 789282View attachment 789283 View attachment 789284 View attachment 789285
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info........I have to find a local trophy shop for this stuff. I have a bunch a models that would benefit from a nice plaque attached to the base.

I was dreading the tower also but it was not that bad. I did a little at a time and kept fitting it to see what needed to be sanded and it turned out fine. Heck I thought raising the walls was going to be difficult but in fact it wasn't.

My advise for anybody thinking of doing these customizations is.......take your time, think about what needs to be done and do a little at a time. Keep fitting and refitting the pieces to see how they fit. Try to get some clear pictures of other peoples work and ask questions if you get stuck. Most times you can fix mistakes. If you can't call MFG and reorder parts. Revell and Round 2 are good at sending replacement parts.


gt350pony66 said:
hey, now I can really see what you did with that gap at the tower base...now that looks REALLY good.:thumbsup I wish I could go back and do it, but it's too late now. You're quite a clever fella Escape :thumbsup I'm going to do another one later this year I think, and I will certainly follow your example. it's likely easier than filing where the bridge face goes.
I got the plaque at a local trophy shop. there's a guy there that's a modeler and he really liked the 2 projects I had plates made for. it was like 12 bucks and only took a couple days.
Click to expand...
 
Ah, Revell and Round 2, I wasn't aware of that, good stuff brother thanks. And your advise on the modifications I whole heartedly endorse :thumbsup
Escape068 said:
Thanks for the info........I have to find a local trophy shop for this stuff. I have a bunch a models that would benefit from a nice plaque attached to the base.

I was dreading the tower also but it was not that bad. I did a little at a time and kept fitting it to see what needed to be sanded and it turned out fine. Heck I thought raising the walls was going to be difficult but in fact it wasn't.

My advise for anybody thinking of doing these customizations is.......take your time, think about what needs to be done and do a little at a time. Keep fitting and refitting the pieces to see how they fit. Try to get some clear pictures of other peoples work and ask questions if you get stuck. Most times you can fix mistakes. If you can't call MFG and reorder parts. Revell and Round 2 are good at sending replacement parts.
Click to expand...
 
Ahhh this is yours.. f#@! awesome ;)
But are you not painting it? And weathering? Makes it pop out so much more.. but I truly love it!!!!

Sent from my Redmi Note 4X using Tapatalk
 
It’s painted, citadel Corax white, lightly washed with a black/gray[ but thanks for the kind words it was a 4 months project QUOTE=Socrates11;4397162]Ahhh this is yours.. f#@! awesome ;)
But are you not painting it? And weathering? Makes it pop out so much more.. but I truly love it!!!!

Sent from my Redmi Note 4X using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
 
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