1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

sure thing,
the stuff ain't cheap though is it...but it sure comes out nice.
adphill said:
Thanks, just ordered a can. I haven't yet settled on an off-white spray can that I like, so I'm looking forward to giving this a try.
Click to expand...

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Ah-ha! another great idea from Escape! attach some tubing to run it through to keep it neat...I wish I'd thought of that, but I'm glad you mentioned it, thanks brother! :thumbsup
Escape068 said:
From the hangar bay picture it looks like an off white with a beige tint and not a gray tint

I'm going to mix up some white with either a little black or brown to give it that off-white look. Then do a wash with some acrylic black heavily thinned with water...Check this video out by Randy Cooper washing his Star Destroyer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs

FO looks good that you have it neatly bundled. I may use some of the plastic tube to send FO through and glue the tube down to the interior in various section to keep it straight and neat.
Click to expand...
 
If you don't mind me asking where did you buy the Citadel Corax White.

I found a place online priced at 14.45 + 5.99 shipping if I order 2 cans shipping is the same so that would be $17.40 per can

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/gw-62-01.html

Cheapest on eBay is $19.96 free shipping


After you paint it with the Corax White and apply your wash what are you clear coating it with?

What sheen is the Corax White flat...satin?



gt350pony66 said:
sure thing,
the stuff ain't cheap though is it...but it sure comes out nice.

- - - Updated - - -

Ah-ha! another great idea from Escape! attach some tubing to run it through to keep it neat...I wish I'd thought of that, but I'm glad you mentioned it, thanks brother! :thumbsup
Click to expand...

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I get it from my local hobby shop in Tempe, about 5 miles from work. It's a flat finish but it's pretty friendly if you have to clean something off of it. It's like 17 bucks and change, with tax 18 something. So that's about right I'd guess. I light coat with Testors satin clear, dull coat they used to call it. I do wait till the very end though in case I missed something or have to redo it. I've also taken to watering down the acrylic wash more than normal as well. For the big pieces I do a quasi Cooper thing, I did see that too though, he's got some great vids. I put the wash is a tiny spray bottle and add water till it's where I want it. spray it on the big pieces, stand it on end and let it drain off and then wipe it. (lint free cloth!!) I have trouble though when I forget to turn the ceiling fan off...it dries to fast :eek
Escape068 said:
If you don't mind me asking where did you buy the Citadel Corax White.

I found a place online priced at 14.45 + 5.99 shipping if I order 2 cans shipping is the same so that would be $17.40 per can

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/gw-62-01.html

Cheapest on eBay is $19.96 free shipping


After you paint it with the Corax White and apply your wash what are you clear coating it with?

What sheen is the Corax White flat...satin?





- - - Updated - - -
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

I take it you don't have a good hobby shop close to you?

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btw, if you gotta clean off to redo and a wet towel doesn't get it all, a clean pencil eraser works too as long as you don't go too hard with it. I've been using those small whitish artist erasers too.
 
Like the spray bottle idea with the wash inside!!

Clear coat to protect the wash and basecoat......

How many cans of Corax White to paint the SD?




gt350pony66 said:
I get it from my local hobby shop in Tempe, about 5 miles from work. It's a flat finish but it's pretty friendly if you have to clean something off of it. It's like 17 bucks and change, with tax 18 something. So that's about right I'd guess. I light coat with Testors satin clear, dull coat they used to call it. I do wait till the very end though in case I missed something or have to redo it. I've also taken to watering down the acrylic wash more than normal as well. For the big pieces I do a quasi Cooper thing, I did see that too though, he's got some great vids. I put the wash is a tiny spray bottle and add water till it's where I want it. spray it on the big pieces, stand it on end and let it drain off and then wipe it. (lint free cloth!!) I have trouble though when I forget to turn the ceiling fan off...it dries to fast :eek

- - - Updated - - -

I take it you don't have a good hobby shop close to you?
Click to expand...
 
Just one with some left over, an MPC Falcon though, I'll get into a second can a little. when a near empty can starts spraying weird I save it for small stuff. nothing worse than starting to shoot a piece and the paint starts coming out weird. the clear flat is also important if you use pastels for weathering...fingers and the oil from them smudge your previously perfect pastel work horribly:facepalm
Escape068 said:
Like the spray bottle idea with the wash inside!!

Clear coat to protect the wash and basecoat......

How many cans of Corax White to paint the SD?
Click to expand...
 
yeah, and the spray bottle thing...Cooper was brushing on the wash, so I tried that but found spots later that I missed...so I though, why not spray it on if the excess is going to run off anyway? you use more, but it goes on quicker and more completely. Another thing my hobby shop guy told me about washes...he was out of the stuff the other day and told me just to go to the art store and get a tube of water color and mix with water...same thing. :thumbsup
 
I'll buy a can to test and see if I like the color.

I appreciate all the wash tips!!


I received neodymium magnets yesterday........I made and glued the brackets for it yesterday. Tonight I will epoxy the magnets to the brackets and see how it goes. They are very tiny 6mm diameter by 2mm thick and they are hard to separate. As long as the magnets don't pull through the epoxy or break the brackets I think it will hold down the top section securely.



gt350pony66 said:
yeah, and the spray bottle thing...Cooper was brushing on the wash, so I tried that but found spots later that I missed...so I though, why not spray it on if the excess is going to run off anyway? you use more, but it goes on quicker and more completely. Another thing my hobby shop guy told me about washes...he was out of the stuff the other day and told me just to go to the art store and get a tube of water color and mix with water...same thing. :thumbsup
Click to expand...
 
sure thing man!
I've used those tiny magnets once or twice. the rear cargo hatch underneath the Falcons is where I put the battery pack :thumbsup
Escape068 said:
I'll buy a can to test and see if I like the color.

I appreciate all the wash tips!!


I received neodymium magnets yesterday........I made and glued the brackets for it yesterday. Tonight I will epoxy the magnets to the brackets and see how it goes. They are very tiny 6mm diameter by 2mm thick and they are hard to separate. As long as the magnets don't pull through the epoxy or break the brackets I think it will hold down the top section securely.
Click to expand...
 
ISD-FO1.jpeghey fellas...I think I'm losing it...this is what I have left for FO. as you can see, I have half of the upper to do yet, and you know I'm done with the lower...I started with a 1000 ft roll of .25mm, cutting very few at 15", maybe 30 of 'em, most of the rest at 10 and 12 inches. What I do is cut a big pile, then bloom the ends and stuff into a large zip bag. I've seen the waste from cutting ends off...maybe 10ft, no we'll be generous, 20ft. The thing is, I have like 30, 10" pieces left?!...I ran out :facepalm do you suppose the FiberOpticStore sent a short roll...or have I over-done this?:confused:wacko
There are so many holes, I'll do a cluster and glue 'em, then a whole section, then when I think I've got a whole area done...I find holes I missed, and even holes I marked and never drilled! :sick
 
Not sure what happened but I would just buy some more you can always use it on next project

I have been buying mine from eBay seller who is cheaper that the Fiber Optic Store

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-FT-of...843136?hash=item2a95bd6280:g:Ht8AAMXQO21Ry3tX

That is for 1000 feet but if you message him he can send you 500 ft. if you want. I bought 500 feet each of .25 and .50mm last week both on a roll for $21.85 shipped

His name is Cesar. He combines shipping and ships pretty quickly. Just message him and tell him what you want.

I finished the magnets to hold down the top and it worked perfectly. Hope to have some pictures a little later. Busy at work today




gt350pony66 said:
View attachment 778534hey fellas...I think I'm losing it...this is what I have left for FO. as you can see, I have half of the upper to do yet, and you know I'm done with the lower...I started with a 1000 ft roll of .25mm, cutting very few at 15", maybe 30 of 'em, most of the rest at 10 and 12 inches. What I do is cut a big pile, then bloom the ends and stuff into a large zip bag. I've seen the waste from cutting ends off...maybe 10ft, no we'll be generous, 20ft. The thing is, I have like 30, 10" pieces left?!...I ran out :facepalm do you suppose the FiberOpticStore sent a short roll...or have I over-done this?:confused:wacko
There are so many holes, I'll do a cluster and glue 'em, then a whole section, then when I think I've got a whole area done...I find holes I missed, and even holes I marked and never drilled! :sick
Click to expand...
 
I just realized.......Did you already paint and wash the top and bottom? You said you are blooming the FO ends so panting is usually done first.

Someone mentioned in another thread depending on how much you bloom the FO ends the resulting size will be close or equal to the next size FO. (25mm bloomed is close to .50mm) .......is that close to how yours is?
 
Probably, of course there are going to be variations in the bloom size...some come out too small and pull through so I have to hit them again. some come out too big as well and I trim if possible. if I'm lucky they come out just right and a slight steady pull seats it in the hole. Looking closely with 350 reader glasses you can see some are larger than others, but for the most part when you throw light to it, they're pretty much uniform in the light output. I guess a guy could really spend a lot, ALOT of time getting them all the same, but I don't see the need for that. As far as paint, yes I pre-painted the lower with the hangar, belly dome and trench walls secured. the upper had the super structure secured when painted, but I did drill holes before I shot the paint. the engine panel and tower also assembled and drilled before paint, but I did leave the tower face and roof panel loose but painted, washed and fibered up till final assembly. This kit's parts fit so well I didn't worry about the seams where final assembly will be, and using FO, there is little risk of light leak...IMO
Escape068 said:
I just realized.......Did you already paint and wash the top and bottom? You said you are blooming the FO ends so panting is usually done first.

Someone mentioned in another thread depending on how much you bloom the FO ends the resulting size will be close or equal to the next size FO. (25mm bloomed is close to .50mm) .......is that close to how yours is?
Click to expand...

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however, if there are some that are too big and I can't trim, I just use a pair of tweezers to try to seat it better. while it certainly won't be perfect to extremely close inspection, it's good enough for who it's for :lol:thumbsup
 
My point was that a lot of people use the .25mm since smaller than the .50mm but if you bloom the ends will make it close in size to the .50mm and it still looks good. My choice of .50mm and not blooming the ends will be fine and not look too big.

gt350pony66 said:
Probably, of course there are going to be variations in the bloom size...some come out too small and pull through so I have to hit them again. some come out too big as well and I trim if possible. if I'm lucky they come out just right and a slight steady pull seats it in the hole. Looking closely with 350 reader glasses you can see some are larger than others, but for the most part when you throw light to it, they're pretty much uniform in the light output. I guess a guy could really spend a lot, ALOT of time getting them all the same, but I don't see the need for that. As far as paint, yes I pre-painted the lower with the hangar, belly dome and trench walls secured. the upper had the super structure secured when painted, but I did drill holes before I shot the paint. the engine panel and tower also assembled and drilled before paint, but I did leave the tower face and roof panel loose but painted, washed and fibered up till final assembly. This kit's parts fit so well I didn't worry about the seams where final assembly will be, and using FO, there is little risk of light leak...IMO

- - - Updated - - -

however, if there are some that are too big and I can't trim, I just use a pair of tweezers to try to seat it better. while it certainly won't be perfect to extremely close inspection, it's good enough for who it's for :lol:thumbsup
Click to expand...




Here are the pictures of the top cover held in place with the magnets. I can turn over and it will not fall off. The magnets hold the top flush to the edge.



20171206_080742smaller.jpg 20171206_080751smaller.jpg 20171206_080810smaller.jpg 20171206_080815smaller.jpg 20171206_080836smaller.jpg 20171206_080939smaller.jpg
 
oh I agree, my concern with going the other way was the ability to trim them flush later, though I could have spent the time acquiring the proper tools to make that possible...I just went the way I had been doing it. the other way has to be cleaner though. I like what you've done with the magnets, very clean precise, fine work sir.:thumbsup That's what I had done on a couple of the Falcons with the battery compartment. Then I figured out I could leave the lip on the stock part, trim it back a bit and have it lift,slide and drop down, as it goes on the hull piece from the inside anyway.
Escape068 said:
My point was that a lot of people use the .25mm since smaller than the .50mm but if you bloom the ends will make it close in size to the .50mm and it still looks good. My choice of .50mm and not blooming the ends will be fine and not look too big.






Here are the pictures of the top cover held in place with the magnets. I can turn over and it will not fall off. The magnets hold the top flush to the edge.



View attachment 778564 View attachment 778565 View attachment 778566 View attachment 778568 View attachment 778570 View attachment 778571
Click to expand...
 
HO-LY COW!! Man that looks incredible!!!:thumbsup Did you scratch all those greebs on the engine panel?! Your trenches are spectacular as well! I'm really impressed with that. Makes me want to strip my engine panel back down and do that to mine...in fact I'm sure of it. I'm going to have to send that pic to my phone for reference. That's seriously top shelf work Invar, well done!!(y)thumbsup:thumbsup
INVAR said:
View attachment 778611

https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=280589
Click to expand...
 
gt350pony66 said:
HO-LY COW!! Man that looks incredible!!!:thumbsup Did you scratch all those greebs on the engine panel?! Your trenches are spectacular as well! I'm really impressed with that. Makes me want to strip my engine panel back down and do that to mine...in fact I'm sure of it. I'm going to have to send that pic to my phone for reference. That's seriously top shelf work Invar, well done!!(y)thumbsup:thumbsup
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. Yes, all greeblies are scratch built - just me some styrene and a No. 11 Exacto blade. Trying to approximate the 8 foot ILM Avenger in spots, but cannot match it exactly at this scale - and the base parts of the Zvezda do not really allow for an exact duplication. So I have to work with where they have raised areas and approximate where certain notable shapes from the ILM model would fit, but I have to confess that as I am going forward I am referencing the ILM photos less and less and just adding surface detail where I see some space. The 1.5 MM height extension does tend to create a 3 or 4 deck look whereareas the ILM model has battleship superstructure parts that fill the trench structure from top to bottom, and I couldn't really do that with the Zvezda without more surgery than I wanted to do.

More pics at the link to my thread. https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=280589
 
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