The sensors are very small....one can be placed behind the plastic on each side where there are those hangar bay doors on the upper hull. If the plastic is thin enough and not much paint the IR may pass through. On my Enterprise refit I put those in the base behind the plastic and the IR was able to pass through and work. You can put one each side and in the back where the engines are. If that doesn't work you can still put behind plastic and drill a tiny hole through it to expose the IR sensor or maybe mount them in the trenches and disguise as a greebie. I will do one of those methods.......Test and see which one works when I get to it
1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table
- Thread starter gt350pony66
- Start date
gt350pony66
Master Member
Yeah, same here. I think your thoughts on sensor placement is promising. And disguising as greeblies is about what I was thinking as well. The engine sensor in the engine panel is perfect, thanks. I'll have to test it to see if the plastic is thin enough to catch the signal through it, but I'm gonna guess not quite...we shall see. thanks for those ideas though my friend, I'll put them into practice :thumbsup
This the 6 channel RF switch I ordered:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6CH-Re...var=690089371510&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Channel 1-3 will be set for On/Off:
1 Main Light
2 Hangar Bay
3 Engines
Channels 4-6 will be set for Momentary:
4 Firing the Lasers
5 Sound clip to play
6 will not be used unless I want to light up something momentary
I want to be able to dim the Main Lights, Hangar Bay and Engines.......so the IR remote will do this. Place the sensors on either side of the ship one for main lights and one for hangar bay and one in the back for the engines and they should not interfere with each other. In my case I will set to where I like and probably leave it set so I just have to get it set once. If it works well they I can use with my other remote and show off those effect
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6CH-Re...var=690089371510&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Channel 1-3 will be set for On/Off:
1 Main Light
2 Hangar Bay
3 Engines
Channels 4-6 will be set for Momentary:
4 Firing the Lasers
5 Sound clip to play
6 will not be used unless I want to light up something momentary
I want to be able to dim the Main Lights, Hangar Bay and Engines.......so the IR remote will do this. Place the sensors on either side of the ship one for main lights and one for hangar bay and one in the back for the engines and they should not interfere with each other. In my case I will set to where I like and probably leave it set so I just have to get it set once. If it works well they I can use with my other remote and show off those effect
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The IR remote you bought with multiple receivers is one remote and 3 separate wire setups:
gt350pony66
Master Member
Well, what I did was, set the trench walls with tape, then drilled where I wanted, then removed the walls and notched the areas on the lower hull where the lower FO will need to pass through. Then I glued the trench walls in place on the lower hull. the parts where the FO will be above the mid point on the wall height, I then marked the upper hull and notched it. so there will be a lot of uneven "teeth" so to speak. So when I go to assemble the upper and lower, I'll dab glue on the tips of the teeth where it will mate with the other half. Granted it's quite a lot of making sure there will be sufficient glue contact areas, but as well as this kit fits together anyway, it should be ok. I test fit, test fit, test fit...and then test fit again. I sure don't want to bite off any FO obviously, as well as keeping the glue away from the FO cause regular model glue melts it. Super glue makes it brittle and as much area that needs glue, regular model glue is the only option I see.
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that looks like the ones :thumbsup
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that looks like the ones :thumbsup
gt350pony66
Master Member
I didn't really want to wash the hangar like the outer hull, thinking it ought to at least look like a cleaner area...protected by those force fields and such. So all I did in the hangar was hit some piping edges and a few other areas lightly with a .35mm mechanical lead pencil to shade it but only on one side or another not both...just for a hint of depth. I just did that yesterday but didn't photo it yet. as far as the 2mm LED, I shoved them all the way in the holes and lazerbonded them in. In hindsight, I might have been better off setting them back further...harder to see them, and it would have toned the light down some. I didn't want to make a bunch of little rectangle light panels out of clear or the really thin styrene sheet which I thought would not give enough light. yeah, I was lazy about that, I should have experimented a little with it first.
For the gluing I have been using Tamiya super thin and Plast-i-weld liquid cement. I hold seam together and use a fine brush and lightly apply over the seam and it dries very quick. You apply sparingly and does not mar the surface but since it very thin it seeps in all over the seem. It has work well for me
Do you get separate wiring harness if you order with more sensors?
Do you get separate wiring harness if you order with more sensors?
gt350pony66
Master Member
yeah, thats where you're way ahead of me in the electronics, that looks like something above my comprehension level :facepalm:lol
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I have yet to try that glue. I'll have to see if my shop has some. There wasn't any harness per say, that came with them, but there is an illustration of how to hook it up so it works as desired...lucky for me
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I have yet to try that glue. I'll have to see if my shop has some. There wasn't any harness per say, that came with them, but there is an illustration of how to hook it up so it works as desired...lucky for me
I circled the effect I really like....How did you do that or is it just the way the camera took the picture or were those spots not light blocked and the LEDs are shinning through the plastic.
I'm not exactly sure how it wires up but they have some diagrams so hopefully its sufficient enough in explaining how it works and is wired
gt350pony66
Master Member
Ohhh...I guess I wasn't paying attention, sorry brother. Yeah, it's just light blasting through the plastic. I thought it looked ok so I left it. I only shot the thing with Citadel white primer and nothing else, 2 coats. The stuff comes out of the can really nice, almost like air brush, and dries almost immediately if you don't go heavy.
Thanks for the answer!!!
I already primed / light blocked mine but I can sand down those areas and just repaint in white.
Is that citadel white primer white or slightly gray?
I'm not at the paint step yet but want to know what the base coat color should be
I already primed / light blocked mine but I can sand down those areas and just repaint in white.
Is that citadel white primer white or slightly gray?
I'm not at the paint step yet but want to know what the base coat color should be
gt350pony66
Master Member
I could have sworn I posted a pic of that can but don't see it now. must have been on Guns Akimbo's thread and I deleted it all. It's called a primer, dirty white kinda finish, recommended by my hobby shop guy for space vehicles. Looks killer on my M/falcons
gt350pony66
Master Member
this is what I did with the hull pieces to let the FO pass through. A non-thrilling pic of the bridge top, and a pic of my ultra fine tip mechanical pencil shading inside the main hangar. Looks like I did stray more than I stated or intended with that, but it still looks ok
gt350pony66
Master Member
this is the stuff my hobby shop told me to use on space ships, I think it's far better than the Testors stuff I was using. Cleaner, yet still a hint of dirty. it accepts washes and pastels easily and if you don't like what you did with them, it cleans up with out ruining the finish. This is the last Falcon I built...no, it's not a fine molds, it's not a Bandai...this is an MPC with just about every upgrade/aftermarket piece you can get. HH Miniatures and Shapeways stuff. if any of you are familiar with the MPC, there's very little about them that's remotely correct out of the box. Yeah, one of these days I really have to get some paint on Han and Chewy, but I want to do it right. Have to watch some Youtube on painting figures. Everytime I try, it just doesn't look right.
gt350pony66
Master Member
this was build number 5 of this kit. the first being box stock parts, but with the lighting. After it was done I realized how out of whack it was. Determined to make it right I sought out every upgrade I could find. I do have a Fine Molds as well, but haven't touched it...no challenge there but for the lighting which now is old hat. I thought I was going to build a bunch of these and sell them on ebay...no bueno. I binge bought these on ebay when they were cheap. I could probably make a killing at a comic-con but that'd be a hassle. I've got like 10-12 more of these in the closet if any of you guys are interested in doing one. I've also made molds for most of the upgrade pieces to duplicate them.
gt350pony66
Master Member
sorry, I forgot to state the whole point of the Falcon pics, it's to illustrate what that Citadel paint looks like...not for me to babble about it otherwise.
From the hangar bay picture it looks like an off white with a beige tint and not a gray tint
I'm going to mix up some white with either a little black or brown to give it that off-white look. Then do a wash with some acrylic black heavily thinned with water...Check this video out by Randy Cooper washing his Star Destroyer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs
FO looks good that you have it neatly bundled. I may use some of the plastic tube to send FO through and glue the tube down to the interior in various section to keep it straight and neat.
I'm going to mix up some white with either a little black or brown to give it that off-white look. Then do a wash with some acrylic black heavily thinned with water...Check this video out by Randy Cooper washing his Star Destroyer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs
FO looks good that you have it neatly bundled. I may use some of the plastic tube to send FO through and glue the tube down to the interior in various section to keep it straight and neat.
Thanks, just ordered a can. I haven't yet settled on an off-white spray can that I like, so I'm looking forward to giving this a try.
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