1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

even color is all in how you shoot it but done evenly I've not noticed any variation except for where I wanted it, you kinda have to pretend you have an airbrush in your hand. with each coat though, it'll get rougher if you go to heavy. I actually have to take some 1500 to 2000 grit to the AT-AT cause I got some larger flat areas that need smoothing out.
Escape068 said:
Thanks for the info on the black being shot first!!

I will probably shoot some Duplicolor dark gray primer going heavier in the nooks and crannies and lighter on the more flat larger areas then shoot the Corax white not completely covering all of it and see how that looks. I can always re-spray Corax white in those areas if some areas are too dark.....How does the Corax white blend into surrounding areas if re-shot a second time. Is it still a nice even sheen?
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It's the overspray causing the rougher areas. 1500 - 2000 wetsand will take care of that. I will use 2500 and go very light because the last thing you want is to start remove the color in that area and then you have a sand spot to deal with which is a pain to get rid of because it has several shades of grey/white. I usually wetsand the primer coat prior to the base coat and do the same to the basecoat before clear coat. Just to smooth out any over spray, imperfections and dust

gt350pony66 said:
even color is all in how you shoot it but done evenly I've not noticed any variation except for where I wanted it, you kinda have to pretend you have an airbrush in your hand. with each coat though, it'll get rougher if you go to heavy. I actually have to take some 1500 to 2000 grit to the AT-AT cause I got some larger flat areas that need smoothing out.
Click to expand...
 
Ah, wet sand...hadn't thought of doing it wet, capitol idea sir :thumbsup
Escape068 said:
It's the overspray causing the rougher areas. 1500 - 2000 wetsand will take care of that. I will use 2500 and go very light because the last thing you want is to start remove the color in that area and then you have a sand spot to deal with which is a pain to get rid of because it has several shades of grey/white. I usually wetsand the primer coat prior to the base coat and do the same to the basecoat before clear coat. Just to smooth out any over spray, imperfections and dust
Click to expand...
 
I sprayed a scrap piece with both DupliColor FP101 light gray and DAP1692 dark gray and then hit it with a few light coats of the Corax white. The Corax White to my eye is a very light gray. Looks very close to the DupliColor FP101. The picture on the right shows it darker but in reality it's a little lighter. Going to do some pre-shading with dark grey lacquer using my air brush around the window areas and the raised detail. Once dry do a light sand to smooth out any overspray and then a few light coats with the Corax White.

20180127_143858smaller.jpg 20180131_075806smaller.jpg


Below is the 6 channel RF relay switch that with turn on / off independently the main lights, hangar bay and engines using a single remote (buttons 4, 5 & 6 in toggle mode). It will also be able to operate the Lasers and Sound clips with buttons 1 & 2 in momentary mode. I have also wired in (3 )RF remote dimmers to channels 4, 5 and 6 so those sections can be dimmed separately. I will set the dim levels with their remotes to what I like and leave it alone.

20180131_075558smaller.jpg 20180131_075547smaller.jpg

Wood for the stand that I will be tackling shortly

20180131_075710smaller.jpg
 
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Awesome dude! I wish I knew all that electronic stuff like you do, my stuff would come out so much cooler:thumbsup I agree about the Corax, got a gray hue to it, perfect for space ships
Escape068 said:
I sprayed a scrap piece with both DupliColor FP101 light gray and DAP1692 dark gray and then hit it with a few light coats of the Corax white. The Corax White to my eye is a very light gray. Looks very close to the DupliColor FP101. The picture on the right shows it darker but in reality it's a little lighter. Going to do some pre-shading with dark grey lacquer using my air brush around the window areas and the raised detail. Once dry do a light sand to smooth out any overspray and then a few light coats with the Corax White.

View attachment 791550 View attachment 791551


Below is the 6 channel RF relay switch that with turn on / off independently the main lights, hangar bay and engines using a single remote (buttons 4, 5 & 6 in toggle mode). It will also be able to operate the Lasers and Sound clips with buttons 1 & 2 in momentary mode. I have also wired in (3 )RF remote dimmers to channels 4, 5 and 6 so those sections can be dimmed separately. I will set the dim levels with their remotes to what I like and leave it alone.

View attachment 791556 View attachment 791554

Wood for the stand that I will be tackling shortly

View attachment 791555
Click to expand...
 
Followed with a dark gray wash to enhance the panel lines and all the nooks & crannies should look good!

gt350pony66 said:
Awesome dude! I wish I knew all that electronic stuff like you do, my stuff would come out so much cooler:thumbsup I agree about the Corax, got a gray hue to it, perfect for space ships
Click to expand...
 
I forgot to look last night, I'm at work now. but he had told me just to use black water color paste in the little tubes at the art supply. you can adjust how thick/dark or runny you want it. I'll make a point to look tonight when I get home for the exact brand of the actual wash from the hobby shop.
Escape068 said:
What brand wash did you use? Sorry......I asked you already but if you had good results I would like to try the one you used.
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I really appreciate it. He is probably right......any water color paste will do but since I'm putting a clear coat on top I don't want any reaction especially at this stage. You already clear coated yours with no reaction so I rather use the one you have to be on the safe side.

You used Testors dullcoat or lusterless? Not sure which one


gt350pony66 said:
I forgot to look last night, I'm at work now. but he had told me just to use black water color paste in the little tubes at the art supply. you can adjust how thick/dark or runny you want it. I'll make a point to look tonight when I get home for the exact brand of the actual wash from the hobby shop.
Click to expand...
 
sure did, testors dullcoat
Escape068 said:
I really appreciate it. He is probably right......any water color paste will do but since I'm putting a clear coat on top I don't want any reaction especially at this stage. You already clear coated yours with no reaction so I rather use the one you have to be on the safe side.

You used Testors dullcoat or lusterless? Not sure which one
Click to expand...
 
looks fantastic! :thumbsupI wish I had though to do that as well. you ISD is going to look so much better than mine :thumbsup the wash is called, "the detailer" little white bottle with a diamond logo printed in whatever color is in the bottle. I'd load a pic but I'm home sick and my lap top is a POS
Escape068 said:
Just finished pre-shading. It looks like its all over the place but the top coat will cover most of it and hopefully you will just see a hint of subtle shades of gray randomly all over the ship. Then the wash should bring it all together.

View attachment 791716 View attachment 791717 View attachment 791718 View attachment 791719

View attachment 791720 View attachment 791721 View attachment 791723
Click to expand...
 
sure thing brother! unfortunately I'm home with the nasty crud of a cold that's going around. I haven't felt this horrible in decades. I don't even want to work on the AT-AT or even lay on the couch and watch ESB...that's pretty bad for me :sick
Escape068 said:
Thank you sir!!
Click to expand...
 
Quick update no pictures yet.

Corax white applied. That stuff covers really well. I sprayed a very light single coat and it basically covered all the pre-shading I did. With that light coat of Corax white it dried with a nice smooth finish!

That's fine Randy Cooper washed his Star Destroyer on a very light gray/white basecoat with no pre-shading and it came awesome!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs

Should have the wash delivered this week but I will wait until the ship is fully assembled to do the wash

Received my sound board and will concentrate this week on installing and finalizing all the wiring and electronics. I hope to assemble the ship this coming weekend.

I also cut all the wood for the stand......so in between I will put that together paint and detail it. I have a few surprises that I will not divulge until the end
 
Ha! Awesome! I'm looking forward to the pics, I anticipate seeing something truly impressive. Also thinking your surprises will be nothing short of astonishing :thumbsup Go man go!!
Escape068 said:
Quick update no pictures yet.

Corax white applied. That stuff covers really well. I sprayed a very light single coat and it basically covered all the pre-shading I did. With that light coat of Corax white it dried with a nice smooth finish!

That's fine Randy Cooper washed his Star Destroyer on a very light gray/white basecoat with no pre-shading and it came awesome!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs

Should have the wash delivered this week but I will wait until the ship is fully assembled to do the wash

Received my sound board and will concentrate this week on installing and finalizing all the wiring and electronics. I hope to assemble the ship this coming weekend.

I also cut all the wood for the stand......so in between I will put that together paint and detail it. I have a few surprises that I will not divulge until the end
Click to expand...
 
Pictures of the Corax white base coat applied......Almost finished connecting all the wires to the electronics in the main hull. Should be finished with that by Friday. Still waiting for the paint for the wash to get delivered.

20180207_075503smaller.jpg 20180207_075600smaller.jpg 20180207_075608smaller.jpg 20180207_075621smaller.jpg

20180207_075613smaller.jpg 20180207_075632smaller.jpg 20180207_075711smaller.jpg
 
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