1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table
- Thread starter gt350pony66
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gt350pony66
Master Member
they've worked great for me so far, seem to be quite flexible, there was a couple of times when I thought for sure I'd snapped one, but it pulled back out intact :thumbsup
Thank you very much! Hopefully I'll have better luck with these
gt350pony66
Master Member
Well my friend, I'm glad both you guys chimed in on this, I thought I'd seen them in blue, and perhaps the white as well... I'd have to watch another movie or two again. I'm starting to think they're blue-ish at sub-light speed, and then go white-er when they power up for light speed? Or you know what else I considered...what about the 4 smaller ones be constant, and the 3 big ones flicker...or vise-versa? I'm thinking the constant ones I colored blue that have the slight blue hue to them come into play somewhere?...or am I getting too far into the weeds?
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I agree about boring though...it shouldn't be everything white, screen correct or not :lol
Its funny how when I made mine blue a crop of Star Wars experts started the argument that the engines were never blue in ANY of the movies. Well this is a screen shot from Rogue One:
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/33968417770_ff6a3e1a0d_z.jpg20170430_002437 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/33541756523_6bca4c3022_z.jpg20170430_002421 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
Whada u know? Look....they look blue in some of the shots. Do them either blue or warm, but choose what ever YOU like. In my case blue looked less boring and they happen to be screen correct.
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I agree about boring though...it shouldn't be everything white, screen correct or not :lol
gt350pony66
Master Member
you know another factor which contributes to bits breaking I think, is the drilling speed, not that you haven't already thought of that...I was going to mention that earlier and I spaced
Here are some pictures early stages
I don't have any close-up pictures on the window drill holes but will take some tonight and post along with pictures of the interior painted white.
I am upgrading with Falcon 3D Parts.......Engine Bells, Hangar Bay and Field Generators. I'm also scratch building a Trench Hangar Bay. I also have a 1/2700 Millennium Falcon and Tantive IV that I may light and use.
All interior panels have been light blocked and then painted white because my first choice is to use Warm White LED strips or a combination with FO for the interior lighting.
Cool White for the Hangar Bay lighting
Flickering Cool White for the 3 main Engine Bells........Should the other 4 smaller engines be lit the same as the main engines?
I'm having a control board built to simulate multiple laser turrets blasts using 2 LEDs synced to sound a sound clip. I have isolated sound clips of them firing from Episode IV. I need to put the multiple sound clips together in a single sound clip file spaced out correctly which will be synced to 2 LEDs firing multiple times alternating back and fourth between the 2 LEDs. I may use 3 firing points on each side of the ship firing in an alternating pattern. So one point on right side of the ship would fire along with 2 points on left side of the ship at the same time and then it would alternate to 2 points firing on right side and one point on left side with a total of 4 rapid double bursts.
Hard to explain and not what it did in the movie but it will be a cool effect
The board will also control the interior lighting, hangar bay and engines. This will be operated all via remote control
I don't have any close-up pictures on the window drill holes but will take some tonight and post along with pictures of the interior painted white.
I am upgrading with Falcon 3D Parts.......Engine Bells, Hangar Bay and Field Generators. I'm also scratch building a Trench Hangar Bay. I also have a 1/2700 Millennium Falcon and Tantive IV that I may light and use.
All interior panels have been light blocked and then painted white because my first choice is to use Warm White LED strips or a combination with FO for the interior lighting.
Cool White for the Hangar Bay lighting
Flickering Cool White for the 3 main Engine Bells........Should the other 4 smaller engines be lit the same as the main engines?
I'm having a control board built to simulate multiple laser turrets blasts using 2 LEDs synced to sound a sound clip. I have isolated sound clips of them firing from Episode IV. I need to put the multiple sound clips together in a single sound clip file spaced out correctly which will be synced to 2 LEDs firing multiple times alternating back and fourth between the 2 LEDs. I may use 3 firing points on each side of the ship firing in an alternating pattern. So one point on right side of the ship would fire along with 2 points on left side of the ship at the same time and then it would alternate to 2 points firing on right side and one point on left side with a total of 4 rapid double bursts.
Hard to explain and not what it did in the movie but it will be a cool effect
The board will also control the interior lighting, hangar bay and engines. This will be operated all via remote control
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gt350pony66
Master Member
Dude, what you have planned is cool as ****! I was thinking on some sound, recordable module playing the empire march or something like that, but what you're doing is really impressive :thumbsup I did get some remotes with multiple receivers but haven't gotten that far as to what to do with them exactly. And the laser fire, way cool. I hadn't thought about hangar bays in the trenches, have you done that yet? pictures? I'd love to do that with mine and it's not too late either.
the engine lights...I was just discussing that with Scarecrow Joe. I can't decide on white, blue, blue hued white, flickers or solid or a combo of both. I was going to play around with that tonight and see what looked good, then post pics tomorrow for you guys to evaluate.
I really like the trench hangar thought and I've got some time. if you care to elaborate on that, I'll be most grateful :thumbsup
the engine lights...I was just discussing that with Scarecrow Joe. I can't decide on white, blue, blue hued white, flickers or solid or a combo of both. I was going to play around with that tonight and see what looked good, then post pics tomorrow for you guys to evaluate.
I really like the trench hangar thought and I've got some time. if you care to elaborate on that, I'll be most grateful :thumbsup
Just started to build the trench hangar.
Omnius on this forum did one and I will try to duplicate it
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=283720
Scroll down about 8 pictures and you will see a close-up. He has also did some really nice mods.
I did the same for the hangar bay (scroll down to picture 21).......he combined the original one with the one from Falcon 3D
Hope to have a few update pictures later when I get home
Omnius on this forum did one and I will try to duplicate it
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=283720
Scroll down about 8 pictures and you will see a close-up. He has also did some really nice mods.
I did the same for the hangar bay (scroll down to picture 21).......he combined the original one with the one from Falcon 3D
Hope to have a few update pictures later when I get home
gt350pony66
Master Member
Mighty inspiring what Omnius has done with that. The trench hangars are definately going in mine, thanks for the tip brother...I may even have to scroung through my greeblie stash and see what I can add to the upper hull. I've only got a light coat on it and haven't washed it yet. His sure looks good doesn't it. Thanks for plugging that link in my friend. :thumbsup I'll be referencing those pics as well.
schwiiifty
New Member
Hello all, I just recieved the Revell version of this.
And I was thinking of going the same way as Escape068 and sort of skip the FO and go with LED strips.
But Im looking at the instructions and trying to figure out if its possible to be able to open it up after to reach in to the electronics. Or is it normal to just build all together and if the light goes, thats it?
And I was thinking of going the same way as Escape068 and sort of skip the FO and go with LED strips.
But Im looking at the instructions and trying to figure out if its possible to be able to open it up after to reach in to the electronics. Or is it normal to just build all together and if the light goes, thats it?
gt350pony66
Master Member
Welcome aboard! Lucky you, if some of us would have had the patience we could have done this with instructions in English LOL
I really don't see why you couldn't have it be able to come apart. These parts fit really nice and there's next to no flash trimming. I've hear of guys gluing magnets and metal tabs so things can come back apart, but the way you're talking about the illumination, which by the way is interesting...I want to see you guys do this...anyway, anything you leave removable is going to be susceptible to light leak...however...if you were to leave the top panel of the upper hull loose, and add a "skirt" to the inside to cover the separation line, you just might be able to do it, then of course the tower would have to be removable as well unless you hack that top panel and secure the rear for it where the tower goes, then add another under lapping skirt piece at the rear where it meets where you hacked it. just a thought of course, but that's one way to still access you electrics and not have light leak. But really, if you do your LED's right, leave a way to access your battery for changing out (if that's your power source)...you're lighting system shouldn't ever crap out on you. Whatever path you take, we're all interested to see how you pull this off, so keep us informed and don't forget the pictures :thumbsup Have a great Thanksgiving :cheers
I really don't see why you couldn't have it be able to come apart. These parts fit really nice and there's next to no flash trimming. I've hear of guys gluing magnets and metal tabs so things can come back apart, but the way you're talking about the illumination, which by the way is interesting...I want to see you guys do this...anyway, anything you leave removable is going to be susceptible to light leak...however...if you were to leave the top panel of the upper hull loose, and add a "skirt" to the inside to cover the separation line, you just might be able to do it, then of course the tower would have to be removable as well unless you hack that top panel and secure the rear for it where the tower goes, then add another under lapping skirt piece at the rear where it meets where you hacked it. just a thought of course, but that's one way to still access you electrics and not have light leak. But really, if you do your LED's right, leave a way to access your battery for changing out (if that's your power source)...you're lighting system shouldn't ever crap out on you. Whatever path you take, we're all interested to see how you pull this off, so keep us informed and don't forget the pictures :thumbsup Have a great Thanksgiving :cheers
Hello all, I just recieved the Revell version of this.
And I was thinking of going the same way as Escape068 and sort of skip the FO and go with LED strips.
But Im looking at the instructions and trying to figure out if its possible to be able to open it up after to reach in to the electronics. Or is it normal to just build all together and if the light goes, thats it?
gt350pony66
Master Member
btw, in my case, I'm going to try at least...to leave the rear engine panel removable and have my 9V clipped to it....perhaps that a better way than what I was talking about before for your situation...if there is any light leak between the engine panel and the upper/lower hull panels, a guy can put a layer of masking tape strips in the areas where there are leaks, plus that would help the panel stay in place...and you can always renew those when the dry out and cut as this of strip you need so it can't be seen.
just another thought
just another thought
gt350pony66
Master Member
I had big plans last night, till the extermination guys showed up for the monthly spray treatment, then the wife came home, bla, bla, bla...then before I knew it, it was 8:30...this is as far as I got with engine lighting experiments. these are the 5mm bright whites that I color changed to blue-ish. Have any of you other guys had the problem with the Falcon 3D engine bells being too short on the contact end that the ring piece #8 won't fit? I think it looked ok without the #8's in there, but then there's a light leak.
I considered sanding the #8 pieces thinner, but getting them right, without a noticeable gap will be a chore. Then I thought about making some smaller rings that would fit right at the contact point to cover the seam. just wondered if anyone else had this problem and what your solution was other than what I've said.
thank you my friends :thumbsup
Did a lot of little things that needed to be done before lighting...........Trying to delay because I'm still up in the air to do either LED strips or FO for interior lighting?
Built and light blocked the trench hanger. It is not glued in yet. It needs to be painted and I want to see how I'm going to light the interior of it.
Fixed the angle of the command tower and now lines are parallel to ship....still need to add some small strips to fill the small gaps. It's not glued on yet.
I will be making the top section removable from the ship to get to the electronics. I have glued a small skirt around edge so now it press fits into place and stops 95% of light leak. Some very thin foam will fix the rest. I may also use MicroScale liquid tape to make a stronger but removable connection that can be reattached. The stuff remains sticky and gives a fairly strong temporary bond.
Here are some pictures of the drilled window holes......from inside and some from outside.
After the above pictures were taken I drilled more holes so I'm probably 99% done with the drill holes. I have also drilled the locations for the laser turrets in 3 location on each side. I will use .75 mm FO for this connected to 2 green LEDs that will alternate firing 4 double bursts over a 1.5 to 2.5 second span.
Everyone have a Happy Thanksgiving!!
I hope to get some more done over the long weekend and post some more pictures.
Built and light blocked the trench hanger. It is not glued in yet. It needs to be painted and I want to see how I'm going to light the interior of it.
Fixed the angle of the command tower and now lines are parallel to ship....still need to add some small strips to fill the small gaps. It's not glued on yet.
I will be making the top section removable from the ship to get to the electronics. I have glued a small skirt around edge so now it press fits into place and stops 95% of light leak. Some very thin foam will fix the rest. I may also use MicroScale liquid tape to make a stronger but removable connection that can be reattached. The stuff remains sticky and gives a fairly strong temporary bond.
Here are some pictures of the drilled window holes......from inside and some from outside.
After the above pictures were taken I drilled more holes so I'm probably 99% done with the drill holes. I have also drilled the locations for the laser turrets in 3 location on each side. I will use .75 mm FO for this connected to 2 green LEDs that will alternate firing 4 double bursts over a 1.5 to 2.5 second span.
Everyone have a Happy Thanksgiving!!
I hope to get some more done over the long weekend and post some more pictures.
gt350pony66
Master Member
Looks Fantastic! Thanks for the pic of the trench hangar, now I know exactly what to do with that. I stared at it for a few minutes last night after looking at Omnius' pics, corridor to the fore and aft, perfect! I haven't as yet, adjusted the angle of the command tower, wasn't sure where exactly to trim it, but I think I see now, thanks for that as well. with everything you're doing, it will outshine mine for sure, excellent work my friend :thumbsup
schwiiifty
New Member
Thanks for the answer gt350pony66 and sudjestions. I see Escape068 done some really nice work with that solution.
I gave it some more thoughts and realised that FO is the way to go.
I gave it some more thoughts and realised that FO is the way to go.
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gt350pony66
Master Member
Sure thing buddy, glad it helped. I think, though it's more work, you're going to be happier with the FO. What size are you thinking of using? I think Escape is starting to lean that way as well, as much as I want to see how that other way works I think he'll go FO as well. Here's my lower with about 400 stands of .25mm in it...scary looking ain't it? But it's not really, sorting out which goes where is time consuming but I think it'll all be worth it...I hope. I reckon to have about 800 strands by finish time. I haven't even started on the upper! :eek
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I hate when I go to load a pic and it won't let me...gotta log off and then on again :facepalm
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I hate when I go to load a pic and it won't let me...gotta log off and then on again :facepalm
gt350pony66
Master Member
Btw Schwiiifty...what are you going to power it with? I've been using 9V, mostly because all the prewired LED's I get have the resistor built in, besides it's easier to house and secure a 9 than other stuff. I was told by someone you could only got 10-12 LED per 9V battery, I've used up to 36 with nary a problem:thumbsup
schwiiifty
New Member
Aah yes, I will go for 0.25 mm. It feels like more to the scale as most say.
What adhesive are you using for the FO?
Yeah, I reckon it will be around +-1000 strands.
EDIT: I'm still thinking of it. I dont know yet how many LEDs I will be using. Have been looking at using USB-connection. To use either a powerbank or a USB charger. But it is 5V, won't be enough so maybe I use a powersupply.
What adhesive are you using for the FO?
Yeah, I reckon it will be around +-1000 strands.
EDIT: I'm still thinking of it. I dont know yet how many LEDs I will be using. Have been looking at using USB-connection. To use either a powerbank or a USB charger. But it is 5V, won't be enough so maybe I use a powersupply.
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gt350pony66
Master Member
I forgot to ask you, did you get any of those tiny Tie Fighters from Shapeways to put in there? I thinks it's like 8 bucks for a rack of 30. I'm going to hang a row or two of 5 in the main hangar, and then place a few in the trench hangars you showed me how to make. :thumbsup
gt350pony66
Master Member
I agree soundly, .25mm seems more to scale than the .50, though I did use a few .50 in a couple places. I've been using LaserBond, that UV glue, "as seen on TV" I've gone through nearly a whole tube already, and the Walmart and Walgreens around here don't seem to have it anymore :unsure there's another brand they do have in a black tube, and I've used it, it works but I prefer the laserbond because the UV light is blue and you can see exactly where you've glued much easier than the other one.
Aah yes, I will go for 0.25 mm. It feels like more to the scale as most say.
What adhesive are you using for the FO?
Yeah, I reckon it will be around +-1000 strands.
EDIT: I'm still thinking of it. I dont think I will use more than 9-10 LEDs. Have been looking at using USB-connection. To use either a powerbank or a USB charger. But it is 5V, dont know if that will be enough.
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