1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

I'm leaning towards his also but the other ones are already separated.

What is the best way to cut these?


gt350pony66 said:
Well...if you're gonna get 'em, I guess I will too. Think I'm gonna go with Tony's though...I prefer the flat exterior. I just hope they separate without incident :eek
Click to expand...

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I just sent a message to Tony through his Shapeways store on the best way to separate these.....
 
I'll usually place the tip of the exacto knife at the cut, then place one or two fingers on each item to be separated pushing down slightly and slowly cut. I don't see this as an obstacle, but I have had that happen where stuff will crack out where you don't want it to.
Escape068 said:
I'm leaning towards his also but the other ones are already separated.

What is the best way to cut these?




- - - Updated - - -

I just sent a message to Tony through his Shapeways store on the best way to separate these.....
Click to expand...
 
Tony is a really cool dude, very easy to talk to and very helpful. He's even conjured up stuff at my request and put them up on Shapeways for sale. Awesome guy :thumbsup
Escape068 said:
I'm leaning towards his also but the other ones are already separated.

What is the best way to cut these?




- - - Updated - - -

I just sent a message to Tony through his Shapeways store on the best way to separate these.....
Click to expand...
 
I wonder how the ones without sprues are made. Do they still print with sprues and someone at Shapeways trims them?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 
Tony said he has to submit a separate file for each....so no spruce. By doing it this way Shapeways charges a fee for each file so it's more money $15.51. Submitting one file with them all connected is cheaper $9.94

Well worth the extra 5 buck to ensure no legs get broken trying to separate them

ggriffaw said:
I wonder how the ones without sprues are made. Do they still print with sprues and someone at Shapeways trims them?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Well, I ordered the 308 Bits of Tony's...I'm confident they'll be ok. Besides, I've had goofy stuff from Shapeways in the past, send them an email, tell them whats up...and everytime they've sent me another set no charge. The folks at Shapeways are cool to the extreme. I'll let you know how it comes out. They should be here by the 10th.
In other news...I did some upper to lower test fitting, found some places I didn't trim the upper contact points well enough to clear the FO, but all squared now. Snugs up good, though I need to store both halves with a center support now, they tend to want to flatten sitting around, widening the contact areas...duh me:wacko
Escape068 said:
Tony said he has to submit a separate file for each....so no spruce. By doing it this way Shapeways charges a fee for each file so it's more money $15.51. Submitting one file with them all connected is cheaper $9.94

Well worth the extra 5 buck to ensure no legs get broken trying to separate them
Click to expand...
 
Tony is great.....I asked him if he can make them separate and he had the link up in an hour for them......I also ordered them (no spruce) from Tony. Don't have to worry about breaking the legs off......I also have a Jan 10th ship date from Shapeways

Finished with the second trench hangar. Going to finish up some odds and ends with wiring in the main superstructure and then onto to the engine detail......

gt350pony66 said:
Well, I ordered the 308 Bits of Tony's...I'm confident they'll be ok. Besides, I've had goofy stuff from Shapeways in the past, send them an email, tell them whats up...and everytime they've sent me another set no charge. The folks at Shapeways are cool to the extreme. I'll let you know how it comes out. They should be here by the 10th.
In other news...I did some upper to lower test fitting, found some places I didn't trim the upper contact points well enough to clear the FO, but all squared now. Snugs up good, though I need to store both halves with a center support now, they tend to want to flatten sitting around, widening the contact areas...duh me:wacko
Click to expand...
 
Well, I toyed around with the remotes, sensors and LED's last night...curious thing...I got the ones with 2 sensors and they would work independently but only intermittently. I completely cut off one sensor between two fingers and it would still come on, and off and dim and bright, then the other sensor, I would only cover the receiver eye and it would work as desired, but it was not consistent. Escape...do you have any ideas on what's to be done with this particular problem? Oh, and did you get that diffuser yet?
 
That happened to me when I was testing. If you have both sensors separated try aiming the remote way to the left of the sensor on the left just until it works and do the same for the right. The IR from the remote can also be bouncing off a nearby wall. Maybe check online for something to block IR so both can be isolated and only aiming at the front where the eye is will allow it to work.

If I use the that remote it will only be for dimming purposes and once set I will not need to use anymore because it remembers the last setting. My RF remote will be used to turn lights/engines/hangar bay/lasers and sound clip on and off.

I did not get the diffuser yet. Mail may be slow due to holidays.......will see in a few days


gt350pony66 said:
Well, I toyed around with the remotes, sensors and LED's last night...curious thing...I got the ones with 2 sensors and they would work independently but only intermittently. I completely cut off one sensor between two fingers and it would still come on, and off and dim and bright, then the other sensor, I would only cover the receiver eye and it would work as desired, but it was not consistent. Escape...do you have any ideas on what's to be done with this particular problem? Oh, and did you get that diffuser yet?
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Never thought it would be so simple to Block IR....if it works?

https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-block-ir-remote-control-signals
 
hey, thanks...I'd imagine that's the problem, but still I can't figure out why when I pinched the sensor between my fingers, totally blocking it's receiving that it still worked? weird huh?
I'll give it a whirl. I still kind of wanted to be able to dim and brighten the engines and have the windows stay at a constant. I'll install everything, engine sensor in the rear panel and the window sensor in a forward area of one of the trenches and see what happens.[
Thanks brother, hope that stuff shows up for you soon :thumbsupQUOTE=Escape068;4382897]Probably need to coat the whole sensor housing except for the tiny eye in the front.[/QUOTE]
 
When I googled blocking IR it also mentioned that aluminum foil should block IR or any conducting metal. Maybe try that first before the nail polish.

You can wrap whole sensor in aluminum foil to see if it works. If it blocks it then all you need to do is cover everything but the front where the eye is. It also said most plastics allow IR to pass through.
 
I was looking further into a dimmable solution and I may not use the IR ones and go with one of these solutions instead:

This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-IN-LIN...296280?hash=item2393216b58:g:0BcAAOSwmphaD9fg


This one is in line an has switches on it to control brightness. Since I have mine where I can open it I can adjust brightness to what I like and leave alone. I have to find out if last setting is saved when powered off. I have message into seller to clarify this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-ULTRA...897609&hash=item2a8abfde6f:g:TG0AAOSwT6pVk9Hm


gt350pony66 said:
hey, thanks...I'd imagine that's the problem, but still I can't figure out why when I pinched the sensor between my fingers, totally blocking it's receiving that it still worked? weird huh?
I'll give it a whirl. I still kind of wanted to be able to dim and brighten the engines and have the windows stay at a constant. I'll install everything, engine sensor in the rear panel and the window sensor in a forward area of one of the trenches and see what happens.[
Thanks brother, hope that stuff shows up for you soon :thumbsupQUOTE=Escape068;4382897]Probably need to coat the whole sensor housing except for the tiny eye in the front.
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]
 
Well, I'm going to toy around with it, per you recommendations of what to so with the sensors, with the engine wired in and just the lower since there plenty of FO and the trench is where I'll place the one sensor...and see if I can get it to do what I want. :confused:thumbsup
Escape068 said:
I was looking further into a dimmable solution and I may not use the IR ones and go with one of these solutions instead:

This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-IN-LIN...296280?hash=item2393216b58:g:0BcAAOSwmphaD9fg


This one is in line an has switches on it to control brightness. Since I have mine where I can open it I can adjust brightness to what I like and leave alone. I have to find out if last setting is saved when powered off. I have message into seller to clarify this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-ULTRA...897609&hash=item2a8abfde6f:g:TG0AAOSwT6pVk9Hm
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]
 
>This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this

Using this for my Galacatica. It's a cheap good working solution.

cheers,

Dirk
 
Are you using more than one and if so do the remotes work independently?

Thanks for the info. I will probably buy both they are cheap and always good to have.



Omnius said:
>This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this

Using this for my Galacatica. It's a cheap good working solution.

cheers,

Dirk
Click to expand...
 
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