1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table
- Thread starter gt350pony66
- Start date
gt350pony66
Master Member
LOL, that's the way of it, I guess the worst that can happen is you can run out of FO...like I did :lol
gt350pony66
Master Member
incidentally, I had a 1000ft roll of .25mm FO for this thinking, yeah, that'll be plenty...I knew I wanted lots of light points hence the .25mm. But I did run out, of course you will have excess you trim off, but I used another 100ft I found in my stash, then I found I needed even more. lucky for me I came across another 250ft I didn't know I had and I'll be lucky if I don't run out again. Unbelievable huh :confused
At least you are smart enough to buy it in bulk!
I have been "scavenging" mine from things like dollar store lights and toys:facepalm I think in the new year I will just place an order so I can have it on ha nd when needed.
it's amazing just how much of the stuff you end up using!
I have been "scavenging" mine from things like dollar store lights and toys:facepalm I think in the new year I will just place an order so I can have it on ha nd when needed.
it's amazing just how much of the stuff you end up using!
gt350pony66
Master Member
I used to get these loose coiled rolls of 250ft from my old LED guy, always knots up at some point. So for this one I knew I'd use a lot so I got a 1000ft from the Fiber Optic Store on a spool. However, if you order from them, specify the spool. I think if you get 500ft or less, they put it on a short cardboard tube, still better than a coiled roll, but it could still get messy. I got a 5x5x1 piece of wood and stuck a thick bolt in the center, taller than the spool, then stacked shock absorber bushings on the bolt to take out the slop. then set the spool on that and it comes off nice, neat and easy. If you're going to be doing builds, that's the way to go. :thumbsup
gt350pony66
Master Member
finally...took long enough to get all the FO organized and routed so it'll stay out of the way and make final assembly cleaner. Still much to do. I haven't test fit the engine panel yet, but I hope none of the FO in the rear will be a problem.
gt350pony66
Master Member
New Years Eve...we had the neighbor next door over, her and the wife ran their yaps endlessly, but that afforded me so valuable work time at the other end of the table. this is a shot of the upper before the tower, with the ceiling light on, less glare. and the lower all tidied up with it's additional 1.5mm of trench.
gt350pony66
Master Member
a few more of the lower with the extra trench wall...this is by far and away my biggest lighting project ever. FO for days...:wacko
Dingbat
New Member
Light test looks great GT. Over the weekend I started stuffing fibers in the upper hull half. I started with the red in the superstructure.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/45TMlZdyc3P9eJl43
The cheap-o fibers I repurposed from the plumed lamps are turning out to be a bigger hassle than I thought. Not only are they slightly diffrent sizes (.3mm-.38mm), but I also found some that tapper! Out of the bundel of 150+/- strands I only had to abandon 4 as they were too large for any of the windows I had drilled so it wasnt a huge loss. Now on to the regular windows...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/45TMlZdyc3P9eJl43
The cheap-o fibers I repurposed from the plumed lamps are turning out to be a bigger hassle than I thought. Not only are they slightly diffrent sizes (.3mm-.38mm), but I also found some that tapper! Out of the bundel of 150+/- strands I only had to abandon 4 as they were too large for any of the windows I had drilled so it wasnt a huge loss. Now on to the regular windows...
gt350pony66
Master Member
thanks brother! :thumbsup So far it going according to plan...I worry though about the engine panel, but who knows I may be worrying over nothing. I still need to set a 2mm LED in the upper for the garbage chute, and I was kicking myself last night that I'd forgot...but as it turns out, I couldn't have done it prior to sliding the tower in anyway :wacko so that should be fine. The tower fit so snug, I didn't bother with glue. And the engine panel will have the same 1.5mm spacing top and bottom so that should clear the FO to the rear of the upper and lower...I think. just have to set a flashing red LED in for the 4 FO in the upper. I wanted the upper and lower to only be tied together by two power wires and no criss-crossing FO. Though that will mean that the red flashers top, and the reds bottom will not always flash at the same time but I think that might add some depth. the 4 upper red FO are all on the tower. I did also add two red flash FO above each of the Tie hangars on both sides. After I set to tower cap on, then it's time for the remote sensor and switch placement. I think I still have enough clean floor space on the lower so it shouldn't be a problem since I followed Escapes lead on keeping the FO organized extra tight. There's so much of it you have to. Still a ways to go, but I'm in no hurry...I'm having too much fun with this build :thumbsup Stupid me, I didn't look at your attachment before I started this reply :facepalm
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Hmm..work system has it blocked...have to look on the laptop at home later :confused
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Hmm..work system has it blocked...have to look on the laptop at home later :confused
Gimme Shelter
Member
crikes - those lights look better than the xmas lights in London
Gimme Shelter
Member
yep - spot on - that looks exactly like the clear light diffusing frosted material I used on me Randy Cooper ISD - worked a treat
yep - spot on - that looks exactly like the clear light diffusing frosted material I used on me Randy Cooper ISD - worked a treat
yep - spot on - that looks exactly like the clear light diffusing frosted material I used on me Randy Cooper ISD - worked a treat
gt350pony66
Master Member
Thanks! :thumbsup, I was afraid at one moment that it toned the smaller ones down too much, but after looking at it for a minute, I decided it looked ok. Of course I neglected to pic and post so you guys could evaluate it. will post one tomorrow.
gt350pony66
Master Member
I also made a rather lame attempt to scratch the big bell baffles. Got one bell done, tedious work. I cut them out of thin brass and made the bracing struts out of evergreen. I guess there is more than one PE set for this from HDA? Cause I sure don't see them on the sheet I did get. curious...
Happy New Year!
Nice work! Coming together really nice!!
Have you decided where to put the third light on each side of the trench?
I decided to build a second trench hangar but in a different configuration than the first one. I made it higher than the fist one which enabled me to run a walkway all the way around it to make it look like it's 2 floors high and give it a feeling of a large room/hangar. I have to dress it up with detail but I think it will look pretty good. Since I have both hangars open now I may place the third light further back on each side of the trench.....not sure yet.
I like the red lights on the tower.....I was planning on 2 red FOs on each side of the tower and a couple here and there in the trench, but I like the idea of red ones over the trench hangars too! Raising the trench wall gives you the space to put the FO there!
I just rec'd the Citadel Corax white........may do some testing over the weekend.
How does it spray? What is best way to spray to get a nice smooth even finish........What spray distance, several light coats any other tips
Hangar bay and trench hangar installed and all wired up. Once finished other trench hangar I will probably wire up the LEDs for all the lower FO. Still need to do all the engine greeblies and some other odds and ends that I may have missed. Then onto to gluing the top half with the bottom. Have you decided on how you are gluing the top and bottom halves together and what glue you are using?
I should have pictures tomorrow of my progress.
Nice work! Coming together really nice!!
Have you decided where to put the third light on each side of the trench?
I decided to build a second trench hangar but in a different configuration than the first one. I made it higher than the fist one which enabled me to run a walkway all the way around it to make it look like it's 2 floors high and give it a feeling of a large room/hangar. I have to dress it up with detail but I think it will look pretty good. Since I have both hangars open now I may place the third light further back on each side of the trench.....not sure yet.
I like the red lights on the tower.....I was planning on 2 red FOs on each side of the tower and a couple here and there in the trench, but I like the idea of red ones over the trench hangars too! Raising the trench wall gives you the space to put the FO there!
I just rec'd the Citadel Corax white........may do some testing over the weekend.
How does it spray? What is best way to spray to get a nice smooth even finish........What spray distance, several light coats any other tips
Hangar bay and trench hangar installed and all wired up. Once finished other trench hangar I will probably wire up the LEDs for all the lower FO. Still need to do all the engine greeblies and some other odds and ends that I may have missed. Then onto to gluing the top half with the bottom. Have you decided on how you are gluing the top and bottom halves together and what glue you are using?
I should have pictures tomorrow of my progress.
gt350pony66
Master Member
Happy New Year buddy! Thanks! :thumbsup
Too finny, I'm reading your post and thinking...well where are the pic?! then at the end you mentioned it :lol looking forward to seeing what you're doing. I haven't given that 3rd light any scrutiny just yet. You're going to like the paint, it goes on almost like airbrush and dries quickly. but like any other not too close. I usually distance it about 12 to 16 inches. not too far though, it'll dry in mid-air :lol Play a bit with it though and get yourself a feel for it. I'd prime it in a darker shade like Omnius, then I think it's likely the best thing around for spaceships short of air brushing. it's spendy stuff but I think it's well worth the money. As far as joining the upper and lower, I'm just going to use the regular Testors red tube. However, I'll mock up and test fit like a 100 times first to see where all the best contact points will be and look for gaps and such. I'll probably even Lazerbond and tape while mocking up when I get to the engine panel since there will be some work there fitting it and deciding on grebblies for the corners cause I still want to be able to remove the engine panel to access the 9V. the lazerbond will hold stuff pretty good and still peel off.
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I got a phone call that messed me up, I was saying prime it with a darker color, black even like Omnius, then 2-3 light coats of Citadel.
Too finny, I'm reading your post and thinking...well where are the pic?! then at the end you mentioned it :lol looking forward to seeing what you're doing. I haven't given that 3rd light any scrutiny just yet. You're going to like the paint, it goes on almost like airbrush and dries quickly. but like any other not too close. I usually distance it about 12 to 16 inches. not too far though, it'll dry in mid-air :lol Play a bit with it though and get yourself a feel for it. I'd prime it in a darker shade like Omnius, then I think it's likely the best thing around for spaceships short of air brushing. it's spendy stuff but I think it's well worth the money. As far as joining the upper and lower, I'm just going to use the regular Testors red tube. However, I'll mock up and test fit like a 100 times first to see where all the best contact points will be and look for gaps and such. I'll probably even Lazerbond and tape while mocking up when I get to the engine panel since there will be some work there fitting it and deciding on grebblies for the corners cause I still want to be able to remove the engine panel to access the 9V. the lazerbond will hold stuff pretty good and still peel off.
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I got a phone call that messed me up, I was saying prime it with a darker color, black even like Omnius, then 2-3 light coats of Citadel.
I bought 2 cans of the Citadel. I have a Duplicolor dark gray primer that should give it some nice pre-shading effects when the white is applied over it.
Since I did not paint the exterior yet I'm leaning on using Tamiya super thin glue to apply on the seams. It works really well with a thin brush. Since the top and bottom half's fit nice and tight together applying it over the seam a little at a time should work out good.
No light but just the red FO over the trench hangar?
The magnets worked really good for holding the top section for me.......Maybe try that with the back
In the main hangar bay what did you put in the 2 smaller holes on each side. If you put FO are you connecting to a LED or not? I put in FO and can either connect to LED or leave alone.
Thanks!
Since I did not paint the exterior yet I'm leaning on using Tamiya super thin glue to apply on the seams. It works really well with a thin brush. Since the top and bottom half's fit nice and tight together applying it over the seam a little at a time should work out good.
No light but just the red FO over the trench hangar?
The magnets worked really good for holding the top section for me.......Maybe try that with the back
In the main hangar bay what did you put in the 2 smaller holes on each side. If you put FO are you connecting to a LED or not? I put in FO and can either connect to LED or leave alone.
Thanks!
gt350pony66
Master Member
Yeah...magnets on the engine panel, that sounds like a good idea, thanks :thumbsup, I hadn't thought of that.:thumbsup I stuck some 1.0mm FO in those holes. Though I had considered using some of that diffuser or styrene sheet with a 2mm LED behind it. The FO I used doesn't look so great...but then who is going to look that close.
gt350pony66
Master Member
Good morning my friends, I humbly submit to you, for approval or critique, engine lighting (and my scratched bell baffles) and my garbage chute. The blue light in the chute is a flicker, gives it the illusion there's activity of some sort further back. Now, I thought these baffles were on the HDA PE sheet I ordered, evidently not. So, I can do another 6 and call it good, or...and be honest...if these look kinda ehh...or flat out like crap, tell me and I'll order the other sheet...assuming there is one.Similar threads
