1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

Escape068 · Dec 20, 2017

With only 1mm (.40) raised it's hard to notice any empty space on mine. Going to1.5mm and hanging in the air you would always be looking at that area when looking at the trenches so it would odd their is that empty space all along the top.

With mine in addition to adding a .40mm strip to the wall, I also added strips to the top of those areas that stick out past the wall which in turn breaks up any continuous line around the top.

I measured the new trench size from the inner top edge to the inner bottom edge on and it's almost 5.5mm

INVAR said:
I thought about that when I began but when I raised the sides and placed the existing Zvezda trench pieces in place, the 1.5mm gap WAS noticeable to me. Especially since this model will hang from the ceiling just above eye-level (so the hangar bays can be appreciated) and the gap is much more noticeable. As I have been mimicking the 8 foot ILM Avenger, flat surface detail begs to be filled and broken up.

But then I am a silly perfectionist when it comes to doing creative things, which is why I spend so much time messing around with it.

gt350pony66 · Dec 21, 2017

wow, you didn't mess around about this huh?! I appreciate the tip on the masking stuff and the mix you recommend. I've got like a half dozen shades of white/dirty white, grays in Model Master acrylic so I'm hoping I can find the right mix from that. Looking forward to seeing the pics of your wall pieces. I likely won't start on that till Sunday or Monday. I'm going to play around with our lighting challenge and once I get that squared away I'll reshoot the engine panel and wash it. Then I can fully focus on the trench issue and your pics will be a huge help, but I'm not trying to rush you...just make sure you post them by Monday:lol just kiddin' brother :thumbsup

Escape068 said:
With only 1mm (.40) raised it's hard to notice any empty space on mine. Going to1.5mm and hanging in the air you would always be looking at that area when looking at the trenches so it would odd their is that empty space all along the top.

With mine in addition to adding a .40mm strip to the wall, I also added strips to the top of those areas that stick out past the wall which in turn breaks up any continuous line around the top.

I measured the new trench size from the inner top edge to the inner bottom edge on and it's almost 5.5mm

gt350pony66 · Dec 21, 2017

for what it's worth, here it is. I had to fudge a lot so it only resembles Invar's a little, but overall to me it looks pretty good. Almost 2 weeks to do a slop copy of Invar's 3 months of research, greeblie gathering, scratch building, not to mention sizing things up so they appeared correct to scale...lots of work Invar, you are to be congratulated for your skill, tenacity and dedication to something you quite obviously put your whole heart into

cheers

- - - Updated - - -

I just noticed a few things I forgot...:facepalm:lol

Escape068 · Dec 21, 2017

Pictures of the raised wall with .40 x .40 = 1mm

Some edges need to be sanded and when painted and washed it will all blend in and you will not be able to tell that it was raised.

I may also add some .10 pieces cut to shape on the side walls of the hangar bays and the other 2 areas on each side to cover the .40 pieces added that show up in the middle of the wall instead of puttying and sanding it to cover those seams.

Your engines came great!!.........I hope to emulate yours and INVAR's sometime next week. Evergreen shipment due today......

gt350pony66 said:
wow, you didn't mess around about this huh?! I appreciate the tip on the masking stuff and the mix you recommend. I've got like a half dozen shades of white/dirty white, grays in Model Master acrylic so I'm hoping I can find the right mix from that. Looking forward to seeing the pics of your wall pieces. I likely won't start on that till Sunday or Monday. I'm going to play around with our lighting challenge and once I get that squared away I'll reshoot the engine panel and wash it. Then I can fully focus on the trench issue and your pics will be a huge help, but I'm not trying to rush you...just make sure you post them by Monday:lol just kiddin' brother :thumbsup

gt350pony66 · Dec 21, 2017

why h3ll yeah! that looks so much better even with only a plus .40! I did buy both sizes so I'd have the option. I see what you mean about adding more FO, .40 is in fact too thin for the .50 FO, obviously. However, and its just a thought...you could get away with a little .25 in a few strategic spots? and the difference in FO size would give it another "dimension" so to speak. But I am in now way trying to tell you what you should do with your build, I would never presume. Just a thought. I think it looks killa as is :thumbsup
Thanks for putting those pics up, it gives me more guideline for when I do which ever I decide to go with. great stuff buddy, like I've said, I'm going to be a little sad when this build is done. I haven't had so much fun with a build in a while and I think the fact that we're all collaborating and swapping ideas is the main reason [:thumbsupQUOTE=Escape068;4374243]Pictures of the raised wall with .40 x .40 = 1mm

Some edges need to be sanded and when painted and washed it will all blend in and you will not be able to tell that it was raised.

I may also add some .10 pieces cut to shape on the side walls of the hangar bays and the other 2 areas on each side to cover the .40 pieces added that show up in the middle of the wall instead of puttying and sanding it to cover those seams.

Your engines came great!!.........I hope to emulate yours and INVAR's sometime next week. Evergreen shipment due today......

View attachment 781303 View attachment 781304 View attachment 781305 View attachment 781306 View attachment 781307 View attachment 781308 View attachment 781309 View attachment 781310 View attachment 781311 View attachment 781312 View attachment 781313 View attachment 781314 View attachment 781315 View attachment 781316 View attachment 781317[/QUOTE]

gt350pony66 · Dec 21, 2017

also, thanks on the engine panel, it's not as spectacular as Invar's by a long measure...but for what I managed to do I'm happy with it and glad I made the effort. if I ever do another one, knowing what I know now...it will be stellar :cool

gt350pony66 · Dec 22, 2017

here it is with color. I shot a light coat of Citadel black to even everything out, then hit it with 3 light coats of that Citadel dirty white I use. worked out ok, actually. I won't need to wash real heavy for the black coming through the dirty white. I did manage to pry the small bells off, why I used the kit parts I don't know. I probably set the 3D ones aside and forgot about them. So now it's on to the light testing Escape and I have been discussing. Then...it's on to the trenches

have a Merry Christmas everyone :thumbsup

32buds · Dec 22, 2017

That's looking great! Love the pipework!

gt350pony66 · Dec 22, 2017

thanks!, all due to Invar's inspiration! :thumbsup

32buds said:
That's looking great! Love the pipework!

gt350pony66 · Dec 26, 2017

Greetings everyone, I hope you all had a great ***** birthday celebration, I spend quite a bit of time in the yard digging up old leaking irrigation line and upgrading to pvc...lots-O-fun. But, when I wasn't doing that, I did this.

I have some light diffusing acrylic I cut into small rounds, trimmed the fins down in the bell at the one end so the acrylic discs would sit inside. then I just used the lazerbond on it. got the engine panel reshot, washed and reassembled, and re-did the lighting harness for it. I'm happy satisfied with it.
Then I started on the wall raising. I went with the 1.5mm because I really wanted to add more FO. I thought I was being sparse, but by the time I drilled one side, I had an additional 92 holes! I staggered the pieces and angle cut them so they'd look like something that belonged, or tried anyway. I first glued down short pieces of 1.5 where the upper hull "teeth" would have made glue contact, then I shot a few strips with my hull color. cut pieces to fit. Then I touched up the cut ends with some model master gull gray that matched pretty good. Then I watered down my wash, and applied with a small paint brush. It matches pretty good. The wall raising is a lot of extra work, but looking at it now, it's clearly a must do for this kit. Invar, you're the man for recognizing all these things that need to be done to this kit...and then tell us all how to do it :cheers:thumbsup

gt350pony66 · Dec 26, 2017

...you know, I wonder now...what would be terribly wrong with adding still, a 1mm strip to the top of the 1.5? leave it blank for the most part? maybe a pipe and a block of something here and there? Invar, since you started all this with the trenches, your thoughts on this? Heck, anyone? I was looking at my portside wall last night, then I set the upper hull on it and put a piece of tape here and there to hold it while I stared at it. Would it throw off the look that badly? Sure it's more work, and then there's the engine block gaps and the center support to consider. But I thought I could put some red flashing FO above the tie hangar doors so it wouldn't look like a vast gap there...am I going too far????

gt350pony66 · Dec 27, 2017

Invar stated that it was a matter of personal preference, but I get the feeling he wouldn't recommend it. So, as our foremost authority on ISD's I'll defer to Invar on this matter...which saves me a lot of work really. Anyway, here's some shots of my wall raising as seen from the backside. The white blocks of 1.5mm x 1.5mm is the glue contact points. The of course the other painted, is the actual trench wall. It still looks a bit bland on the outside, in between the FO so I've gotta greeb it up some, but something simple.

Escape068 · Dec 27, 2017

The bells look awesome & raising the wall came out perfect!!

Not sure if I would add another 1mm to the 1.5mm you already did.

Where did you get the light diffusing acrylic?

The diffuser is the best option to hide the LED and spread out the light inside the bell.

I just finished lighting the hangar bay and trench hangar. I have approx. 75 more FO to install and then onto the engine greeblie upgrades. Then assemble the ship and get ready for paint.

I ordered 2 cans of the Citadel Corax White. What primer did you use under the Citadel?

gt350pony66 said:
Greetings everyone, I hope you all had a great ***** birthday celebration, I spend quite a bit of time in the yard digging up old leaking irrigation line and upgrading to pvc...lots-O-fun. But, when I wasn't doing that, I did this. View attachment 782257 View attachment 782258 View attachment 782259 View attachment 782261 View attachment 782262 View attachment 782263 View attachment 782264 View attachment 782265I have some light diffusing acrylic I cut into small rounds, trimmed the fins down in the bell at the one end so the acrylic discs would sit inside. then I just used the lazerbond on it. got the engine panel reshot, washed and reassembled, and re-did the lighting harness for it. I'm happy satisfied with it.
Then I started on the wall raising. I went with the 1.5mm because I really wanted to add more FO. I thought I was being sparse, but by the time I drilled one side, I had an additional 92 holes! I staggered the pieces and angle cut them so they'd look like something that belonged, or tried anyway. I first glued down short pieces of 1.5 where the upper hull "teeth" would have made glue contact, then I shot a few strips with my hull color. cut pieces to fit. Then I touched up the cut ends with some model master gull gray that matched pretty good. Then I watered down my wash, and applied with a small paint brush. It matches pretty good. The wall raising is a lot of extra work, but looking at it now, it's clearly a must do for this kit. Invar, you're the man for recognizing all these things that need to be done to this kit...and then tell us all how to do it :cheers:thumbsup

gt350pony66 · Dec 27, 2017

Thanks Escape! I'm happy with it. Well, I didn't use a primer coat, my hobby shop guy said it wouldn't be necessary with this paint, however I probably should have for a richer finish. yes, I sent Invar a PM asking his opinion. He said I could add if I wanted, but it sounded like he wasn't in favor of that, stating it would probably make it look too much like the disproportionate MPC ISD. I saw the logic and decided against it. I'm going to have to find some items that will busy up the longer blank areas between the FO anyway. The acrylic I got a sample pack from a place on-line but I'll have to see if I still have the USPS envelope they sent it in with the name on it. There's lots of it though. If I can't find the name, you could send me a PM with your address and I'll lop off a chunk and mail it to you, no problem. it did work out really well, don't know why I didn't think of it in the first place seeing as that's why I got it for the Falcon's :wacko

Escape068 said:
The bells look awesome & raising the wall came out perfect!!

Not sure if I would add another 1mm to the 1.5mm you already did.

Where did you get the light diffusing acrylic?

The diffuser is the best option to hide the LED and spread out the light inside the bell.

I just finished lighting the hangar bay and trench hangar. I have approx. 75 more FO to install and then onto the engine greeblie upgrades. Then assemble the ship and get ready for paint.

I ordered 2 cans of the Citadel Corax White. What primer did you use under the Citadel?

Escape068 · Dec 27, 2017

Here is a link to another SD that the walls were raised a little too high:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=274245&page=2

Glad you left it a 1.5mm

I may spray a light Duplicolor primer on to give the citadel paint more to grab too

If you cant find the acrylic diffuser address let me know and I will PM you......I like how you did it from the underside of the bells showing the gear type detail while still covering the LEDs. Did you mount the LEDs right behind the diffuser or further back?

Question about the 3 Trench Pico LEDs on each side. I mounted 2 on each side in the obvious spots in the large trench cutouts. It seemed to have 2 slits in the plastic that was perfect spots for those LEDs. The other one on each side should go over the trench hangar bay door, but if you have the door open and show the hangar bay.......do you still put the light there? I'm only doing one open trench hangar bay the other one will be closed. So do you put a Pico LED over the closed one and not on the open one or over both. The reason whey I say this if you have the hangar bay lit from inside will that outside LED over shine the lit interior bay?

gt350pony66 said:
Thanks Escape! I'm happy with it. Well, I didn't use a primer coat, my hobby shop guy said it wouldn't be necessary with this paint, however I probably should have for a richer finish. yes, I sent Invar a PM asking his opinion. He said I could add if I wanted, but it sounded like he wasn't in favor of that, stating it would probably make it look too much like the disproportionate MPC ISD. I saw the logic and decided against it. I'm going to have to find some items that will busy up the longer blank areas between the FO anyway. The acrylic I got a sample pack from a place on-line but I'll have to see if I still have the USPS envelope they sent it in with the name on it. There's lots of it though. If I can't find the name, you could send me a PM with your address and I'll lop off a chunk and mail it to you, no problem. it did work out really well, don't know why I didn't think of it in the first place seeing as that's why I got it for the Falcon's :wacko

gt350pony66 · Dec 27, 2017

Wow...I'm glad too. when you initially look at those pics, you think yeah that looks good, but as you scroll thru, you quickly realize it's not right. I guess I dodged a bullet there, but then that's why I asked you guys what you thought first.
trench lights, I placed one each side to the rear of the big cut out area throwing light forward, and then I've got the blaring light from inside both trench hangars, same 2mm white LED. I've yet to place another in the trench as I got side tracked with the engine panel and now raising the walls. I'll have to review some reference photos to determine where to place the last two (one each side) As far as the acrylic, they sent me like 2 8.5x11 sheets, I got plenty of it. I can send you some. I still have a really thick sheet I've been slicing up for the Falcon's. It's so thick, I made a 1/4 moon shaped cut of 2x4 the same curve as the falcons butt and sanded it nice and I put it and the cut acrylic in the oven at 350 till it starts to droop, then I open the oven and reach in with my extra long grilling gloves I use for oysters, and help it shape to the curve. works pretty slick :thumbsup

Escape068 said:
Here is a link to another SD that the walls were raised a little too high:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=274245&page=2

Glad you left it a 1.5mm

I may spray a light Duplicolor primer on to give the citadel paint more to grab too

If you cant find the acrylic diffuser address let me know and I will PM you......I like how you did it from the underside of the bells showing the gear type detail while still covering the LEDs. Did you mount the LEDs right behind the diffuser or further back?

Question about the 3 Trench Pico LEDs on each side. I mounted 2 on each side in the obvious spots in the large trench cutouts. It seemed to have 2 slits in the plastic that was perfect spots for those LEDs. The other one on each side should go over the trench hangar bay door, but if you have the door open and show the hangar bay.......do you still put the light there? I'm only doing one open trench hangar bay the other one will be closed. So do you put a Pico LED over the closed one and not on the open one or over both. The reason whey I say this if you have the hangar bay lit from inside will that outside LED over shine the lit interior bay?

gt350pony66 · Dec 27, 2017

and yeah, cutting the circles the right size lets the tooth area one the edges show, giving it a sort of burst effect, though you really have to look to see it when its on. but overall, it worked out well. all I did with the bell was a 45 degree whittle on the fins, or teeth enough for the discs to set barely below the edge and dabbed the lazerbond in 4 or 5 places to hold it. lazerbond won't melt it and it sets up clear so you can't see it

Escape068 · Dec 27, 2017

Did you put the diffuser acrylic on the smaller bells?

That is a neat idea to bevel the inside edge and set the acrylic into that!!

How close is the LED to the back of the diffuser acrylic?

gt350pony66 said:
and yeah, cutting the circles the right size lets the tooth area one the edges show, giving it a sort of burst effect, though you really have to look to see it when its on. but overall, it worked out well. all I did with the bell was a 45 degree whittle on the fins, or teeth enough for the discs to set barely below the edge and dabbed the lazerbond in 4 or 5 places to hold it. lazerbond won't melt it and it sets up clear so you can't see it

gt350pony66 · Dec 27, 2017

you know, I didn't on the 4 smaller ones...should have though. it would have cut the glare by A LOT...the LED's are just stuffed in the back and not glued. I wonder if I could hog out the back, set some in there and then make new LED holders to fit the back? what am I saying...of course I can! Super idea man! :thumbsup
lets see...the LED is set at its base to the back of the engine panel...depth of the panel cone to the bell...half inch? maybe a tad more?

Escape068 said:
Did you put the diffuser acrylic on the smaller bells?

That is a neat idea to bevel the inside edge and set the acrylic into that!!

How close is the LED to the back of the diffuser acrylic?

gt350pony66 · Dec 29, 2017

almost there, 90 to 95 more FO down each side, which now makes for this project between 1200 and 1300 strands of FO...boggles the mind. You sit there and drill these holes, even conservatively and you think, ehh, that's 40-50...then you count 'em and there's over 90! crazy. I'm glad I used .25mm FO, otherwise I don't think it all woulda fit in there :unsureAnyway, I've got like 50 left to do starboard side, then I'm back to the engine block, got to open up the rear of the 4 small ones and install some of that acrylic I used for the 3 big ones. This was Escape068's suggestion, and a correct one. btw, this light diffusing acrylic has a glossy side and a flat side. I've been putting the glossy side to face the FO. I think you get a more even light distribution with the non gloss side out.

- - - Updated - - -

I meant to say, glossy side to face the LED:facepalm

1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

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