Iron Man MkIII 3D Print Project

IronDan27

Active Member
Ok here it goes. I've been lurking on here for a few years reading countless threads and using this site as a great educational resource. Over the last few years I have wanted to build an Iron Man suit--a goal that has not been reached yet but will begin soon enough. I have tried paper builds and then tried foam...and well lets just say my crafting levels are not on par with some of you on here lol. All hope seemed lost until I saw some 3D printing builds--3D printing was something i always wanted to dabble in and this seemed like the best project. Over the last week I have been doing lots of research, downloading programs, and getting some models to start, I had downloaded a MkIII file from CGTrader as an stl and began splitting up the model. However once I imported that into Cura it went from smooth to jagged looking (keep in mind I'm a noob at this). I have watched tons of youtube videos but nobody seems to answer my question of why my model is doing that so i figured I'd try asking on here since many of you are more knowledgeable than me at this point.

So hear is the question: How do you import an stl or obj and keep the model integrity? Again I'm a beginner and maybe overlooked something.

Attached are some pictures: The dark green picture is how my model shows up in meshmixer (smooth). Then the full faceplate one is what it looks like once i import it to my 3D printer software (edgy). And just to compare I downloaded MiddleFinger's Silver Centurion helmet and loaded the bottom faceplate to see if I would get the same result and that shows up smoother. And am confused as to why that is.

If anybody has any advice on good modelling programs or 3D-printing in general I'm all ears

Thank you for your time.
 

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My reply has nothing to do with 3D printing but it does apply to 3D modeling...

Your object is modeled with polygons that are flat, hence the faceted look of the face mask mesh. Most programs can apply a smoothing type command that doesn't actually change the geometry it just changes how the polys are displayed so that it looks like it's smooth and that is what it looks like is going on here. I'm not sure how that will effect your print as I don't know how the printers read and interpret model files. There are commands that will change the geometry after smoothing so that the model actually freezes to what is shown in the smoothed render.

I know, not very helpful to what you are looking for, just some general 3D info that may help a little.
 
justanuthercap any info is helpful no worries, I have yet to actually print the face plate to see how it actually comes out as I am waiting for my printer to show up--was trying to get all the files ready so once I'm set up I can start working.
 
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The render of the helmet in the 3D print software leads me to believe that it's just a pepakura file which someone converted to STL without doing surface smoothing (I could be wrong). When I messed around with pepakura models in blender, I noticed that blender had an option for surface smoothing, but the effects were only visual. As in, the model itself still had very large surface polygons, but blender would apply a smoothing on it which didn't affect the model itself but how it was rendered in the program. Try using this helmet instead, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260152. The surfaces should be smooth already, it just requires some separating as he uploaded the parts bunched together. Hope this helps.
 
The render of the helmet in the 3D print software leads me to believe that it's just a pepakura file which someone converted to STL without doing surface smoothing (I could be wrong). When I messed around with pepakura models in blender, I noticed that blender had an option for surface smoothing, but the effects were only visual. As in, the model itself still had very large surface polygons, but blender would apply a smoothing on it which didn't affect the model itself but how it was rendered in the program. Try using this helmet instead, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260152. The surfaces should be smooth already, it just requires some separating as he uploaded the parts bunched together. Hope this helps.

I used those files recently. I had to play with the orientation and what not on some parts, but they worked really well. This would be my recommendation as well.
 
Just throwing this out there, does anybody know of any other MKIII 3D print files that are ready to go? I don't mind if they are free or if i have to buy them, just wanted to see if I could find a back-up set of files. Or if someone on here knows of a better place to look.

edit* I just found the Iron Man resource page on here and took a stab at the Hamernik MKIII file
 
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Alright time for another question and update.

I recently bought a MKIII file from Jan Hamernik--the level of detail is incredible, and very accurate. However for this build I am going to focus on the flight test set up or Mark 1.5 first and was wondering if there was a way to separate the suit into the 3 sub divisions like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cPI3CO3fEY&t=13s

So basically the question is this: Is there a feature in meshmixer that can do this? So far I tried the separate shell command and that just does every individual piece. Only reason I ask is to save myself some leg work if possible--otherwise I have to go through the whole thing and erase the outer shell and other components I'm not wanting to print right away. Just thought I'd see what advice the community has to offer and if there isn't a way around that then coffee and redbull will be my best friends for awhile :lolUnder Tech.PNGRight Leg Frame.PNG
 
So far I have spent a lot of time dissecting them. They seem printable, the only issue is scaling--I set the model height to my self meshmixer and then picked out the top forearm bracket but it seems small still. Like I have stated before I'm new to most of this software so maybe I am doing something wrong in meshmixer.

Since I am logged on here and posting..what is the best way to get a 3D mannequin? I currently am using Armor Designer, but it keeps crashing when I import these STL files.
 
So I know I haven't done a good job of updating this thread--the current models I was using required a lot of work--more power than what my current computer can handle with meshmixer and other 3D programs. I definitely need to upgrade my computer so this project will be slowly worked on while I focus on upgrading my computer. I also will be looking at some different files to try and see if that is any easier.
 
Ok back from the dead is this thread!! So after searching high and low for other models and doing research I decided to commission some models to be made to speed the process along since where I live its winter and I figured I better use my snowmobile while there is snow on the ground and not have my payments go to waste. So I decided to take a break from printing and go out and enjoy life and go ride the trails. I had a blast and now that the snow is melting and my sled will be turned into a fancy garage ornament once again its time to kick this project in the butt. While I was away I had the Mark 1.5 files commissioned by MaxCrft on Etsy--lets just say he did a fantastic job on them and definitely look him up if you need custom models made. I have started the prints and have the toe and heel done with the front shin being completed tonight. Looking at RC linkages to start adding all the detail components and may need to revisit the toe area for ergonomic reasons but anyway I'll upload more pics tomorrow once the shin is put together.
icm_fullxfull.155135223_swvr1uh8xo0s84s8g0w8.jpg
 
Here is what I have printed so far, calf pieces has been spliced and ready to go but I may run out of filament so I need to get more ordered. Also trying to figure out what are the best RC linkages to use on this project so I can get those ordered as well. Also if anybody has any advice on what linkages to use I'd appreciate it--so far I have only found threaded rods and that wont work so well if I am trying to walk around.

3D boot progress.jpg
 
Due to the lock down I have been working on my suit project again after several trips back to the drawing board. Here is my inner right arm frame based on Alex Labs design. I plan to add a few more details and to integrate the soundboard and repulsor for the hand. Currently focusing on making the aluminum harness for the whole body before I keep printing to make sure all the parts fit around the frame. Will update once I get more parts made.
 

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Due to the lock down I have been working on my suit project again after several trips back to the drawing board. Here is my inner right arm frame based on Alex Labs design. I plan to add a few more details and to integrate the soundboard and repulsor for the hand. Currently focusing on making the aluminum harness for the whole body before I keep printing to make sure all the parts fit around the frame. Will update once I get more parts made.
I absolutely love the project! I am currently working on the same thing! :) Will you be remaking the boots in aluminum or keep your 3d printed versions? what part are you using for that pivot in the elbow joint?
 
I absolutely love the project! I am currently working on the same thing! :) Will you be remaking the boots in aluminum or keep your 3d printed versions? what part are you using for that pivot in the elbow joint?
Thanks!

So I plan on making a whole inner suit out of aluminum. I am actually printing out test parts for the boots as I type. However I recently moved and no longer have my workshop so the aluminum stuff will be on hold. That being said my new plan is to design everything I need and print a whole plastic version to test movement and what not. The goal is to also design these parts to be more manufacturable instead of always having to 3D print parts. So there has been a lot of deconstructing/reverse engineering going on. So a very long project ahead of me lol.

The parts I am using for the elbow joint are called furniture hinges. I found a pair on amazon and modified them to fit the frame. Haven't quite figured out how to attach more details to the arm (trying to avoid a glue method) but I think once I get a garage and can set up shop again I will make V3 of the arm. This is currently V2.
 
Thanks!

So I plan on making a whole inner suit out of aluminum. I am actually printing out test parts for the boots as I type. However I recently moved and no longer have my workshop so the aluminum stuff will be on hold. That being said my new plan is to design everything I need and print a whole plastic version to test movement and what not. The goal is to also design these parts to be more manufacturable instead of always having to 3D print parts. So there has been a lot of deconstructing/reverse engineering going on. So a very long project ahead of me lol.

The parts I am using for the elbow joint are called furniture hinges. I found a pair on amazon and modified them to fit the frame. Haven't quite figured out how to attach more details to the arm (trying to avoid a glue method) but I think once I get a garage and can set up shop again I will make V3 of the arm. This is currently V2.
THANKS!! That sounds fantastic!! Would you mind sharing the files you have of the test /interior armor? I really have been trying to hunt down the files and what not but can't seem to find them:( I really cant wait to see your project once completed! I am so excited!! :)
 
Sorry for not getting back to you right away life got super busy. As of right now the files I am working on are not ready for release. I will have to do some digging to see where I put some of the older files I used for reference. One thing you could do is go to MaxCraft on Etsy and ask for the mark 1.5 3D print files I had commission years ago. That would be a good place to start. And some people have been starting with that I see on some threads here. Also I did buy some inner detail files from CGTrader as well which I used for reference/some prototypes. Hope that helps point you in the right direction.
 
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