District 9 Assault Rifle Build - Finished! (Pic heavy)
- Thread starter tmax
- Start date
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Thanks mate, it's getting there. Still trying to work out the alien graphics...
Awesome!thumbsup:thumbsup
Thanks mate, it's getting there. Still trying to work out the alien graphics...
paulsboutique
Sr Member
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
loving the build thread so far !! :thumbsup
loving the build thread so far !! :thumbsup
Strode
Sr Member
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
I am working on the exact weapon myself. Got all the parts printed out Just haven't had the time to sand it. I modeled up the side greeblies myself if you need the stl.
Also mate, the thing on top of the gun, on the top rail, the front part with the long nose? That is angled up in all my reference pics. Thought you should know in case you missed it.
I am working on the exact weapon myself. Got all the parts printed out Just haven't had the time to sand it. I modeled up the side greeblies myself if you need the stl.
Also mate, the thing on top of the gun, on the top rail, the front part with the long nose? That is angled up in all my reference pics. Thought you should know in case you missed it.
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Ha ha, not really, wish it was done days ago. But these dang graphics...
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Thank you good sir. I'd love to see a build thread of your Arc Gen. Hey, how are you going about the Alien Graphics?
Ha ha, not really, wish it was done days ago. But these dang graphics...
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Thank you good sir. I'd love to see a build thread of your Arc Gen. Hey, how are you going about the Alien Graphics?
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Oh man, where were you last week??! Ha ha. I'd love to see your work though. Can you post pics of your printed parts? Either here in this thread or your own build thread. I'd love to see how accurate yours is, etc. This one isn't that accurate, but was the most accurate I'd seen to date. The guy who modelled it is in Croatia and we struck a deal where he'd print it at cost for me and I'd give him pics of the finished gun so he could sell more kits. Also, I've been able to help him improve the model by pointing out all the inaccuracies and faults. With this "prototype" I've resolved that it won't be accurate, so happy for it to be somewhat my own thing. For example the greeblies you mention. But again, I'd love to see your model. And more than happy to offer any advice or pointers on your build if I can.
One thing I'd mention off the bat, is it would be great if the model had "keyed" pieces, rather than just flat surfaces glued together. The reason for this is you end up with a cracked paint line where the join is due to the ever so slight movement in the model. My parts are glued well, but there is still some very minor movement. Apparently this even occurs on the Weta replicas. Cracks where the parts are joined. I tend to think keyed parts would illuminate this. Of course. your past this point in your build, but though it worth mentioning.
Oh man, where were you last week??! Ha ha. I'd love to see your work though. Can you post pics of your printed parts? Either here in this thread or your own build thread. I'd love to see how accurate yours is, etc. This one isn't that accurate, but was the most accurate I'd seen to date. The guy who modelled it is in Croatia and we struck a deal where he'd print it at cost for me and I'd give him pics of the finished gun so he could sell more kits. Also, I've been able to help him improve the model by pointing out all the inaccuracies and faults. With this "prototype" I've resolved that it won't be accurate, so happy for it to be somewhat my own thing. For example the greeblies you mention. But again, I'd love to see your model. And more than happy to offer any advice or pointers on your build if I can.
One thing I'd mention off the bat, is it would be great if the model had "keyed" pieces, rather than just flat surfaces glued together. The reason for this is you end up with a cracked paint line where the join is due to the ever so slight movement in the model. My parts are glued well, but there is still some very minor movement. Apparently this even occurs on the Weta replicas. Cracks where the parts are joined. I tend to think keyed parts would illuminate this. Of course. your past this point in your build, but though it worth mentioning.
paulsboutique
Sr Member
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Ah yeah :unsure ... i haven't got that far yet, although i do have access to a laser cutter so that may be the direction i go.
I am intending to post up a build thread, but was waiting till i had most of the gun printed and in a decent shape.
Ah yeah :unsure ... i haven't got that far yet, although i do have access to a laser cutter so that may be the direction i go.
I am intending to post up a build thread, but was waiting till i had most of the gun printed and in a decent shape.
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Ha ha, yeah I use to be more like that. In fact I'd wait until the prop was finished before I posted a build thread. I've learnt it's much better to post as you go as you get loads of help from fellow members observing your build. And they don't seem to mind how long it takes to complete the build. As long as you're posting some kind of update once a week or so. Plus, I like or the compliments along the way. Keeps me motivated. ;-)
Ha ha, yeah I use to be more like that. In fact I'd wait until the prop was finished before I posted a build thread. I've learnt it's much better to post as you go as you get loads of help from fellow members observing your build. And they don't seem to mind how long it takes to complete the build. As long as you're posting some kind of update once a week or so. Plus, I like or the compliments along the way. Keeps me motivated. ;-)
Strode
Sr Member
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Yeah I check in from time to time. Some parts are proving difficult to sand (mostly due to printer issues) and I just haven't had time to get to it. I have some pics that I can post here if you're ok with that. Don't want to start my own thread.
I found the model on Thingiverse and noticed it needed a lot of work to make it more accurate. I sank in a considerable number of hours to fix it and make it as accurate as possible with what references I found or straight up remodelled some of the parts. It was difficult since editing stls are a pain. Speaking of which, I believe the man who sent you the parts is also using the same file. The missing side greeblies and the way the top cylinder sits gives it away (though he could be the one who modeled it I dunno).
Oh yeah for sure. However I too just sliced the model straight. I tried exploring keys but I am still relatively new to 3d modelling and printing and getting them accurate on the stl was problematic. Not to mention all the support material that I would have had to remove which means the mating surfaces could only fit after a lot of prep work. I am anxious to get back to it but that will only happen after Jan. Good work so far!
Yeah I check in from time to time. Some parts are proving difficult to sand (mostly due to printer issues) and I just haven't had time to get to it. I have some pics that I can post here if you're ok with that. Don't want to start my own thread.
I found the model on Thingiverse and noticed it needed a lot of work to make it more accurate. I sank in a considerable number of hours to fix it and make it as accurate as possible with what references I found or straight up remodelled some of the parts. It was difficult since editing stls are a pain. Speaking of which, I believe the man who sent you the parts is also using the same file. The missing side greeblies and the way the top cylinder sits gives it away (though he could be the one who modeled it I dunno).
Oh yeah for sure. However I too just sliced the model straight. I tried exploring keys but I am still relatively new to 3d modelling and printing and getting them accurate on the stl was problematic. Not to mention all the support material that I would have had to remove which means the mating surfaces could only fit after a lot of prep work. I am anxious to get back to it but that will only happen after Jan. Good work so far!
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
If my daughter brought home her man and he was stinking up my basement with chemicals............Id bring him a beer. Great build. You mentioned it dropped and broke, did you use any sort of plugs/dowels to strengthen the main parts? On solid resin Pulse Rifles, this helps a lot.
If my daughter brought home her man and he was stinking up my basement with chemicals............Id bring him a beer. Great build. You mentioned it dropped and broke, did you use any sort of plugs/dowels to strengthen the main parts? On solid resin Pulse Rifles, this helps a lot.
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Yeah, post here, no probs. And yes, you are correct he used that full size one on thingiverse as a reference, then remodelled it from scratch. The one on thingiverse is pretty inaccurate, but a good starting point.
Yeah, post here, no probs. And yes, you are correct he used that full size one on thingiverse as a reference, then remodelled it from scratch. The one on thingiverse is pretty inaccurate, but a good starting point.
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Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Ha ha, well the basement already smelled of damp mold, so the chemicals are an improvement! Lol.
Unfortunately, each place it broke was just either side of the joins. So the actual joins (which were all flat surfaces) didn't break. The flat surfaces stayed together and the breaks were just beside the join. Very frustrating! So dowels would not have worked (although I did consider them) as the 3D filament is next to impossible to "drill" into. And even if you could it all just breaks loose anyway. I'll just have to consider this prop as fragile.
I did however use dowel in all the joins on my D9 Arc Gen resin kit from @wondersquid (unfinished)...
Ha ha, well the basement already smelled of damp mold, so the chemicals are an improvement! Lol.
Unfortunately, each place it broke was just either side of the joins. So the actual joins (which were all flat surfaces) didn't break. The flat surfaces stayed together and the breaks were just beside the join. Very frustrating! So dowels would not have worked (although I did consider them) as the 3D filament is next to impossible to "drill" into. And even if you could it all just breaks loose anyway. I'll just have to consider this prop as fragile.
I did however use dowel in all the joins on my D9 Arc Gen resin kit from @wondersquid (unfinished)...
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Got a couple hours on it tonight. Time to mask for the orange...
Laid down the orange...
Freaked out a bit here. The colour I am using is Pumpkin Orange by Krylon and I fear it's a touch pastel. But when I compared it to an orange warning label in the basement I found it wasn't that far off...
What do you guys think? I reckon it's not quite right, but then by the time I weather it with a couple washes, would you even tell...??? Thoughts?
Got a couple hours on it tonight. Time to mask for the orange...
Laid down the orange...
Freaked out a bit here. The colour I am using is Pumpkin Orange by Krylon and I fear it's a touch pastel. But when I compared it to an orange warning label in the basement I found it wasn't that far off...
What do you guys think? I reckon it's not quite right, but then by the time I weather it with a couple washes, would you even tell...??? Thoughts?
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Yeah, I'd considered that too. Tried a test on black this morning. Always a bit hard to tell with varying light, etc, but you can see it's a touch darker...
Also, figured I'd take it outside into daylight as it will look different again in natural light...
Looks pretty good here. But then compared to Olaf's orange nose it's still a muted orange.
Olaf is out in the light, I'm standing under the porch overhang (it's raining), but you get the idea. This orange just doesn't pop like it should. There were 2 types of Krylon orange at Canadian Tire, pumpkin and I think mandarin. Might pick up a can of Mandarin and try that. Don't want to go to all this effort and not be happy with the flippin colour. Lol.
Yeah, I'd considered that too. Tried a test on black this morning. Always a bit hard to tell with varying light, etc, but you can see it's a touch darker...
Also, figured I'd take it outside into daylight as it will look different again in natural light...
Looks pretty good here. But then compared to Olaf's orange nose it's still a muted orange.
Olaf is out in the light, I'm standing under the porch overhang (it's raining), but you get the idea. This orange just doesn't pop like it should. There were 2 types of Krylon orange at Canadian Tire, pumpkin and I think mandarin. Might pick up a can of Mandarin and try that. Don't want to go to all this effort and not be happy with the flippin colour. Lol.
Re: District 9 Assault Rifle Build (3D kit)
Ok, so picked up the Mandarin and also a "Real Orange" by Rust-oleum as a back-up...
The difference between the Pumpkin and Mandarin is subtle, but the Mandarin definitely has slightly more "pop" to it...
So yeah, glad I changed the colour. Was only $5 per can as it's on clearance. Pretty happy with the overall colour now...
Ok, so picked up the Mandarin and also a "Real Orange" by Rust-oleum as a back-up...
The difference between the Pumpkin and Mandarin is subtle, but the Mandarin definitely has slightly more "pop" to it...
So yeah, glad I changed the colour. Was only $5 per can as it's on clearance. Pretty happy with the overall colour now...
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