Build: Luke Macrobinoculars (ANH Hero)

SubLevel5 said:
I used the 624 for the grey know as also.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180817/a3749f4bc7062887089956336ddf8521.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Does anyone know Is the Ben and Howell 220 knob and the 624 knob the exact same? That ring shown outside the center knob looks different to me. I've noticed that the grey knob on the 624 is way easier to find than the 220. In fact I've never seen one. I don't really want to paint a red knob grey. I like it original.


Also I found this connector on Ebay if anyone is interested. It's not exactly the right model, but someone might like it better than a cast one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hirose-P-1...ries-Connector-with-Housing-Used/272606391173\\

And another question does anyone know if another camera out there makes the same view finder as the Kalimar 660?
 
Last edited:
Jediseth said:
Does anyone know Is the Ben and Howell 220 knob and the 624 knob the exact same? That ring shown outside the center knob looks different to me. I've noticed that the grey knob on the 624 is way easier to find than the 220. In fact I've never seen one. I don't really want to paint a red knob grey. I like it original.


Also I found this connector on Ebay if anyone is interested. It's not exactly the right model, but someone might like it better than a cast one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hirose-P-1...ries-Connector-with-Housing-Used/272606391173\\

And another question does anyone know if another camera out there makes the same view finder as the Kalimar 660?
Click to expand...
only the mentioned fujita sq, but has a different label on the viewer, so it would not be 100% correct, but very usable
 
I got this in the mail today. Not very easy to get. I know it's not the exact one used, but I'm happy for now considering. Does anyone know how to get the female off of it? I know it has to be de-soldered and I can do that I'm just not sure if I should keep the board and paint it black and then put it back on the pins. I'm a little confused how to get it together.

ioeBW5b.jpg
 
Really nice work!

Did you paint the Eumig, or are my eyes playing tricks?

What colors did you use for the lenses? I'm actually revisiting my Hero Macros now that I've just about finished the Stunts, and I'm painting the lenses (FINALLY), rebuilding the T Box, Big Seagull knob and belt clip. May switch out my old Russrep lens plate for a DEC as well.
 
I have a question. I'm making some improvements to my hero Macros, and I'm wondering if there ever was an agreed consensus on whether the belt clip was mounted on the door or on the underside of the Eumig face plate, behind the door hinge.
 
Guess I'm either gonna have to use pop rivets, or change the way the faceplate attaches to the body, because I won't be able to open her up to screw in the two little screws that originally attach the face plate to the body with the clip already attached.

I don't want to attach the clip by simply tapping the screw holes (though I suppose it's an option) in the face plate. I'd really rather have nuts on the inside, for sturdiness.

I've heard folks theorize that rivets were used originally, though I've never seen proof of that.

I'm also rebuilding the big Seagull knob, rebuilding the t box, cleaning up the EL wiring, printing a female 8-pin, etc..

I'll try and find my old build thread and post updates there so as not to clutter up someone else's build thread! Sorry about that!
 
I used rivets on mine mainly because it looks like they used them on the stunt. Another good option is to go with button head allens. They look like rivets from a distance.
 
Cameron said:
I know what he was referring too and thats not what I meant by new pictures or evidence. Ive considered that pic. That picture does not show anything but a whitish smudge that could be anything. For me, it does not overturn all the other pictures unless there was a change in the prop and to believe that I would need more than a whitish smudge shot. So...pending new evidence its my opinion that the circular metal logo plate was painted black and left on. Your results may vary.

EDITED: Nothing definitive about the white smudge in this pic for me. Not that it makes me an expert but I do make movies for a living and process raw camera images on the daily so I put these through quite a few filters to bring out any hidden details or to reduce gamma, movement, flare etc. View attachment 805486
Click to expand...

Further to the discussion on the circular Eumig plate. Rather than painting it black. If it’s just flipped over and then stuck down again. Firstly it’s black in colour and secondly mine has some glue residue from when it was originally fitted. Would this glue residue look like a whitish smudge? Why would they paint it black when they could simply flip it over.
 
JonRead said:
Further to the discussion on the circular Eumig plate. Rather than painting it black. If it’s just flipped over and then stuck down again. Firstly it’s black in colour and secondly mine has some glue residue from when it was originally fitted. Would this glue residue look like a whitish smudge? Why would they paint it black when they could simply flip it over.
Click to expand...

Personally I'm of the opinion that the plate was simply removed and left off, but you are correct, if it IS there at any time, why bother painting it the same color?
 

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