Build: Luke Macrobinoculars (ANH Hero)

I too would love a larger version, Jerry. Somebody posted this image on this thread right before all the mystery box hype, but right after I decided to use the black band version of the seagull knob on my build (I hadn't seen this image before then). It's pretty undeniable that that is the knurled metal vetsion of the Seagull knob, but I always aim to make my props as close to possible as to what can be seen on screen, and in all the visible screengrabs from ANH, it seems to be the other version (at least from what I can see). I'm sure there were either two versions of the hero macros, or that the knobs were switched out at some point. Thanks for posting this one, Jerry! I know I'm in the minority here with the black band knob ...

You’re not the only one because I too was able to procure the silver knob with black band. Then this photo posted and I was on the fence about which knob to use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
It looks to me like the prop department simply painted the striped knob black, I don’t see the black band version in Jerry’s pic. Is it just me?
 
It looks to me like the prop department simply painted the striped knob black, I don’t see the black band version in Jerry’s pic. Is it just me?

That's what I'm saying, it's obviously the knurled version in the photo Jerry posted above. What I'm saying though, is that from every high-res screengrab I've taken from ANH where the macros are visible, the only ones where you're able to actually see this knob in any kind of detail, it seems to me to be the black band version. Here's a screengrab I took from when you can see it best:

Despecialized-Macros 23.png

Again, I'll credit scottjua with this discovery, but I believe even he has changed his seagull knob back to the knurled version after seeing the photo Jerry posted.

You’re not the only one because I too was able to procure the silver knob with black band. Then this photo posted and I was on the fence about which knob to use.

Tim ... check the photo above and tell me what you think!
 
I have been playing with this image to bring out the details. I can see the nut on the screw on the bottom of the connector.

any one else see this ?
I can email any one a larger image of this .....
also you guys who believe in the rubber band version of the seagull knob, take a gander :)





View attachment 779089

can you email me the larger version? That's cleaner than the one I have, I might be able to get a little bit more out of it.

- - - Updated - - -

That's what I'm saying, it's obviously the knurled version in the photo Jerry posted above. What I'm saying though, is that from every high-res screengrab I've taken from ANH where the macros are visible, the only ones where you're able to actually see this knob in any kind of detail, it seems to me to be the black band version. Here's a screengrab I took from when you can see it best:

View attachment 779206



Tim ... check the photo above and tell me what you think!

same... I've been wondering if that since they were just glued on, if a replacement was needed and BOTH were used...??

Screen Shot 2017-02-20 at 11.06.36 PM.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Screen Shot 2017-12-09 at 10.40.28 AM.png
 
same... I've been wondering if that since they were just glued on, if a replacement was needed and BOTH were used...??

I'd say that given what we know about parts on sabers/blasters changing due to being tossed about/the general wear and tear of production, that this is VERY likely. Hence, why I'm leaving the black band version on my macros! Until we have better reference FROM THE FILM showing the knurled version, I'll keep it that way. There is no doubt in my mind that the knurled knob was used, though. Jerry's photo is a photo from set, and definitely not the stunts so it must be true.

I've never seen that black and white photo before, thanks Scott. Seems to be the same knob that they used in that scene, whatever it was.
 
I used to have that b&w, but lost it when a hard drive died.
could you email that to me scott?
can you email me the larger version? That's cleaner than the one I have, I might be able to get a little bit more out of it.

- - - Updated - - -



same... I've been wondering if that since they were just glued on, if a replacement was needed and BOTH were used...??

View attachment 779207

- - - Updated - - -

View attachment 779208
 
if you gentlemen, or any one else I missed, can pop me an e-mail I will send you all the pic :)


gluejunky@gmail.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I too would love a larger version, Jerry. Somebody posted this image on this thread right before all the mystery box hype, but right after I decided to use the black band version of the seagull knob on my build (I hadn't seen this image before then). It's pretty undeniable that that is the knurled metal vetsion of the Seagull knob, but I always aim to make my props as close to possible as to what can be seen on screen, and in all the visible screengrabs from ANH, it seems to be the other version (at least from what I can see). I'm sure there were either two versions of the hero macros, or that the knobs were switched out at some point. Thanks for posting this one, Jerry! I know I'm in the minority here with the black band knob ...

You’re not the only one because I too was able to procure the silver knob with black band. Then this photo posted and I was on the fence about which knob to use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

can you email me the larger version? That's cleaner than the one I have, I might be able to get a little bit more out of it.

- - - Updated - - -



same... I've been wondering if that since they were just glued on, if a replacement was needed and BOTH were used...??

View attachment 779207

- - - Updated - - -

View attachment 779208

Jerry I’d love a larger scan of that image.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
actually there are several people who have gone that way...it's ok :)
im not 100% in my memory on this, but I remember watching a video real years ago about studio filming, they made mention that bright shiny objects were hard to do in film processing that it would be burn through??? any of you that are in the know on this please feel free to correct me. so if that is true MAYBE they were having lighting issues and needed to make a change. paint the knob, run tape over it perhaps ???? who knows




I too would love a larger version, Jerry. Somebody posted this image on this thread right before all the mystery box hype, but right after I decided to use the black band version of the seagull knob on my build (I hadn't seen this image before then). It's pretty undeniable that that is the knurled metal vetsion of the Seagull knob, but I always aim to make my props as close to possible as to what can be seen on screen, and in all the visible screengrabs from ANH, it seems to be the other version (at least from what I can see). I'm sure there were either two versions of the hero macros, or that the knobs were switched out at some point. Thanks for posting this one, Jerry! I know I'm in the minority here with the black band knob ...
 
Its important to always keep in mind that small detail blurs into each other during movement. What you are seeing when you believe you are seeing a black band is most likely blur of the silver and black together. The smaller the detail the greater the blur and not only does the actor move, the camera moves and all it takes is a tiny bit of movement and blur occurs. You can see from looking at the rest of the shot that in these frames Mark was moving all over the place. These movies were not the hi res 4K and above that we expect today so you must account for this and other artifacts when you are considering detail.

As Trooper alluded to they did dull down shiny parts cause it throws reflections into the camera and unlike JJ they were not desired at the time.I don't believe they did that with this knob because the shine was so small. Its simply blur from movement and lo res.

Also, take a very close look at the Macro. Its not in focus because they focus pulled on Marks face, adding even more blur on the black and silver bands. The blurring of Marks face is from movement so you can see that even when you perfectly focus on something if it moves focus is all gone.
 
so has any one had any luck finding the female ends for reasonable price? I have found a component that I can get them around $50 shipped ? but that depends on your shipping costs
 
No luck for anything under that price.

well I don't think this is the worst option, but maybe the best yet if some one is looking for just the female parts?I followed the u-matic rout to see where it go for the components, I came across the jvc line. like sony they made some small tv monitors, just less money.ive been able to get a couple for around $40-$50 shipped.j
vc tm22u
jvc tm41eg

there are plenty of these out there. better deals could be made depending on your location. ive seen adds on CL in vanc. bc for 12 of them for $150.

it would be great if some one in that area could get them and offer them to the group.....just a thought

be carefull there are two different female metal casings being used on these, one is square while others are the more "correct" rounded corner version


wrong version
no no no.jpg


correct version
yes.jpg

no no no.jpg


yes.jpg
 
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A little late on the post as usual, but here's an update on the status of the build!

Real Kalimar lenses mounted on the painted lens plate. Just used a few coats of satin black. I plan to weather it a bit, but will probably wait to do that until it is mounted:



Painted the Kalimar viewer top flap. Just used a few coats of satin black as well ...



Love the look of it!



Modified the Bell & Howell knob. I counter sunk a 4-40 screw through the center, as suggested by @Seneca:



Instead of allowing that screw to be the axis upon which the knob would rotate, I epoxied that screw in place, and went a different route inspired by others here:

First, I used a dremel to sand off the nub on the back of the B&H knob, making a flat surface. I then counter-sunk both of the screw holes from the bottom to allow for a flat surface even with the screws in place:



I then made two soft plastic washers out of a spare little clear SD card case ... one to sit between the knob and camera, and one to sit inside the camera. I used a 4-40 nylon locking nut to give it a smooth, dampened turn (thanks @HB1098S !). You can see where I had to hollow out the frame of the Eumig a bit to allow room for the nut ...



Here's the front of the knob. I decided to use this black-banded version of the Seagull knob, for reasons I posted on the previous page:



I painted the B&H crossbar grey and tried to match its rotation relevant to the patterned Seagull plate underneath to what my eyes see in reference photos. Looking at stills from the scene where Luke gets attacked by a Sand-Person (which is what I'm basing my knob on) I'm tempted to paint the Seagull aluminum ring to match the grey of the crossbar .... thoughts? Im sure this has been discussed before:

27196404619_e8546669e5_o.png


Lastly, I'm preparing to mount the small Seagull knobs. I know many believe that these were only mounted up to the threads, and have heard reference to photos that seem to depict them sitting higher as if this was the case. Does anyone have photos that show this, and conversely, has anyone found a tap to match the threads on the small Seagull knobs?

All advice welcome as usual. Thanks for reading!

Here's a photo of where they're at right now:

 
Last edited:
I'm in Vancouver, so I'd be happy to help here if I can. I can send a note to the person on CL and see if they are still available and if so, and if there is actual interest from people here, I could go pick them up!

well I don't think this is the worst option, but maybe the best yet if some one is looking for just the female parts?I followed the u-matic rout to see where it go for the components, I came across the jvc line. like sony they made some small tv monitors, just less money.ive been able to get a couple for around $40-$50 shipped.j
vc tm22u
jvc tm41eg

there are plenty of these out there. better deals could be made depending on your location. ive seen adds on CL in vanc. bc for 12 of them for $150.

it would be great if some one in that area could get them and offer them to the group.....just a thought

be carefull there are two different female metal casings being used on these, one is square while others are the more "correct" rounded corner version


wrong version
View attachment 779463


correct version
View attachment 779464
 
man that would be awsome ! im sure others would like these since POSW sold a bunch of connectors. be sure to chack how many actually have the correct female end.


I'm in Vancouver, so I'd be happy to help here if I can. I can send a note to the person on CL and see if they are still available and if so, and if there is actual interest from people here, I could go pick them up!
 
OK, I spoke with the person and have organized to go check them out on Wednesday evening. If they have the correct part, I'll pick them up and then see about taking them all apart!

man that would be awsome ! im sure others would like these since POSW sold a bunch of connectors. be sure to chack how many actually have the correct female end.
 
A little late on the post as usual, but here's an update on the status of the build!

Real Kalimar lenses mounted on the painted lens plate. Just used a few coats of satin black. I plan to weather it a bit, but will probably wait to do that until it is mounted:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/37969338695_8c95422696_o.jpg[/URL]

Painted the Kalimar viewer top flap. Just used a few coats of satin black as well ...

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/37969340275_2f9bdf636f_o.jpg[/URL]

Love the look of it!

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/38140494064_c4689f5799_o.jpg[/URL]

Modified the Bell & Howell knob. I counter sunk a 4-40 screw through the center, as suggested by @Seneca:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4515/23991447197_c46af193e2_o.jpg[/URL]

Instead of allowing that screw to be the axis upon which the knob would rotate, I epoxied that screw in place, and went a different route inspired by others here:

First, I used a dremel to sand off the nub on the back of the B&H knob, making a flat surface. I then counter-sunk both of the screw holes from the bottom to allow for a flat surface even with the screws in place:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/37969342125_4bfb9cfdd0_o.jpg[/URL]

I then made two soft plastic washers out of a spare little clear SD card case ... one to sit between the knob and camera, and one to sit inside the camera. I used a 4-40 nylon locking nut to give it a smooth, dampened turn (thanks @HB1098S !). You can see where I had to hollow out the frame of the Eumig a bit to allow room for the nut ...

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/23991446337_cdff6bc7f0_o.jpg[/URL]

Here's the front of the knob. I decided to use this black-banded version of the Seagull knob, for reasons I posted on the previous page:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/23991449167_8c03ce9db6_o.jpg[/URL]

I painted the B&H crossbar grey and tried to match its rotation relevant to the patterned Seagull plate underneath to what my eyes see in reference photos. Looking at stills from the scene where Luke gets attacked by a Sand-Person (which is what I'm basing my knob on) I'm tempted to paint the Seagull aluminum ring to match the grey of the crossbar .... thoughts? Im sure this has been discussed before:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/27196404619_e8546669e5_o.png[/URL]

Lastly, I'm preparing to mount the small Seagull knobs. I know many believe that these were only mounted up to the threads, and have heard reference to photos that seem to depict them sitting higher as if this was the case. Does anyone have photos that show this, and conversely, has anyone found a tap to match the threads on the small Seagull knobs?

All advice welcome as usual. Thanks for reading!

Here's a photo of where they're at right now:

[url]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/27196712209_df5a5a69a7_o.jpg[/URL]
How did you go about hollowing the frame. Did you have to use milling equipment?
 
very easy to do-
there are two screws on top of the tv, and two on either side. the top case comes off very easy. the two screws for the female have nuts holding them in place from the inside. dont disguard those, you will want them :)

thanks man ! pm or email me if you have any questions.


OK, I spoke with the person and have organized to go check them out on Wednesday evening. If they have the correct part, I'll pick them up and then see about taking them all apart!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ive seen adds on CL in vanc. bc for 12 of them for $150.

it would be great if some one in that area could get them and offer them to the group.....just a thought

View attachment 779464

OK, I spoke with the person and have organized to go check them out on Wednesday evening. If they have the correct part, I'll pick them up and then see about taking them all apart!

This is awesome, guys! Great teamwork. If this goes through, as long as everybody else who wants one gets one, I'd be in for one, as I'd like to compare it to the Ibanez piece.

How did you go about hollowing the frame. Did you have to use milling equipment?

I don't have a mill, so I just drilled a large-ish hole to get it started, then used a dremel for the meat of it, and some needle files to clean up the edges. Could easily be done with just a dremel, or a hand drill and some files. I went a bit overboard too, with a shorter screw you really wouldn't need to remove much.
 
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I'm in Vancouver, so I'd be happy to help here if I can. I can send a note to the person on CL and see if they are still available and if so, and if there is actual interest from people here, I could go pick them up!

I'm down for 1. I also volunteer to cast em up for folks at cost if i get one.
 

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