ANH Skywalker Lightsaber Scratchbuild (metal - PIC HEAVY!)

The14thDr · Dec 22, 2017

Tan Djarka said:
Any progress on this? It's been a whole week already:eek

I’m afraid not. I still need to build the emitter/bulb holder and the weather is far too cold for being outside cutting aluminium, so I’ve been working on a few other projects until I get the chance to finish my lightsaber (which probably won’t happen now until the New Year.)

So at this rate it looks like I’ll be watching TLJ with a half-finished lightsaber on my belt! :eek

The14thDr · Jan 5, 2018

Something always looked a bit “off” about the red button I made - and then I realised it was because the top half was a completely different shade of silver to the bottom half! To remedy this, I painted the washer with the same acrylic paint I used for the toothpaste cap.

It was a simple fix, but I think it really makes a difference.

——— Update ———

I also (finally!) made a start on the glass eye.

Like the red button, this took a lot thought until I stumbled upon something that would work.

Unfortunately, I haven’t yet been able to find anything that was the right diameter and had the same knurled effect around the edge as the glass eye on the ANH prop, so in the meantime I decided to make a smooth, TFA-style “eye” using a plain silver ring I bought on eBay for £3.

Alas, I messed up my measurements and ordered a ring that was far too big to use for the glass eye, so it was back to the drawing board.

By this point, I’d decided that I really like the look of the smooth glass eye, so I knocked up a rather basic model which I hope to get 3D printed soon.

Before then, I would really appreciate if someone could offer suggestions/advice as to how I could make this more accurate.

Tan Djarka · Jan 6, 2018

Looks pretty good so far.

Just a heads up: While I've got two aluminum tube Graflexes in the works, I think I'm putting those on the back burner. On whats essentially become a throwaway build, I decided to try using a Scotch Brite pad on a chrome plated brass sink tube and it worked out surprisingly well. I've decided I'll build that first, and then (eventually) the aluminum ones.

The14thDr · Jan 8, 2018

I decided to split the emitter into 3 sections - the “interior”, the top and the bulb holder.

I designed the interior as a single piece that includes the sections behind the four holes near the top of the lightsaber. With this in mind, I cut a 2 inch length of 1-1/4” PVC pipe and two sections of 5/8” black plastic tube.

I cut two very rough holes in the PVC to accommodate the black tubes and painted the front half (as this will be visible through the rectangular holes near the top of the lightsaber.)

For the brass pins, I cut a cocktail stick into four lengths, which I pushed through a pair of cardboard circles and glued into place.
With a bit of gold paint, they don’t look too bad!

Finally, I wrapped the bottom end of the pipe in tape until it could be slotted tightly inside the lightsaber with slipping out.

Tan Djarka · Jan 8, 2018

Hey, that looks pretty good. I never considered tubes for the recharge ports. A good way to get a flat bottom for the pins.

Fabian 71 · Jan 8, 2018

Awesome...!

Ridire Firean · Jan 8, 2018

The14thDr said:
Before then, I would really appreciate if someone could offer suggestions/advice as to how I could make this more accurate.

Hey @The14thDr !

GRAFLEX Glass Eye Measurements (for a Folmer Flat Beveled Style Eye) by ~Ridire Firean as measured today, January 8, 2018:

Knurled Edge Diameter = 49/64"
Knurled Edge Thickness = 3/32"
Knurled Edge Flat Top Ring Width= 5/128"
Depth of Knurling = 1/64"
Knurling Ridge to Ridge Tooth Spacing = 1/32"
Knurl Ridges/Teeth = 55
Knurl Ridge/Teeth Bevel Top Side ONLY Depth = 1/64"
Overall Height (Spring not included) = 3/8"
Thread Diameter = 79/128"
Thread Height = 5/32"
Unthreaded Shaft Outer Diameter = 9/16"
Unthreaded Shaft Outer Height = 1/8"
Unthreaded Shaft Inner Diameter = 1/2"
Unthreaded Shaft Inner Height up from bottom to Spring Retaining Cutout Ring = about 1/16"
Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Height = about 1/16"
Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Depth = about 1/64"
Above Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Inner Shaft Width/Diameter where the Glass Eye sits beneath the hole down the center= 31/64"
Overall Inner Shaft Depth = 7/32"
Visible Glass Eye Diameter (when looking at it when it's installed on the flash) aka the hole down the center = 27/64"
Inner Bevel Lip = 1/64"-3/128" (it's very difficult to see, but you can see it!)
Actual Glass Eye Diameter = 31/64"
Actual Glass Eye Height = 29/128"
Actual Glass Eye Sidewall Thickness = 11/128"
Actual Glass Eye Lip (before the Dome of the Eye justs up out of the Sidewall) 1/128"-1/64"
Spring Height all by itself = 19/32"
Spring Width all by itself = 71/128"
Spring Width at the smaller end = 25/64"
There are 4 loops? of the Spring between the ends of its wire, and 7/32" overlap between its ends when looking down upon it (through the center, not from the side).
Spring Wire Diameter = 1/32"

If that doesn't get you more accurate, it will at least get your model very, very, very close to being a lot like my Flat Beveled Glass Eye! Depending on your modeling skills of course.

Can someone pass me the Visine now and help me uncross my eyes?

The14thDr · Jan 8, 2018

Hey Ridire Firean! Those measurements are brilliant (and very thorough!) - so thank you! [emoji4]
Unfortunately I just got my current model 3D printed, but now I have the ability to start working on an updated version straight away.

The14thDr · Jan 10, 2018

After finding an acrylic disc in my spare parts box, I painted it black and drilled a hole through the centre to accommodate a length of 1/2” wooden dowel (which will act as the brass rod that you see inside real Graflexes.)

With a bit of glue, I attached this to the top of the emitter and the rest of the saber.

The14thDr · Jan 10, 2018

I took a break from building the emitter to make myself a set of sidebars from air-drying clay.

Once these had set I painted them silver and glued them onto the clamp.

Ridire Firean · Jan 10, 2018

Hey The14thDr ! The diameter of the Plunger Contact is 3/8" and it sticks up about 11/64" from the edgeface of the Insulator (the black part that overlaps the Tube Assembly (the S-curved tube part)). Oh, the Plunger Contact also sits down into a curved recess at least 1/8". The 'whirl-pool' like recess would look decent in your build if you made it about 29/32" in diameter.

I think you installed your Clamp Bars inside-out. The rounded corners go on the outside, and the flat edges go on the inside.

p.s. Since you're probably about to start on it...

The GRAFLEX Clamp Lever Dimensions are:
1-11/64" Overall Length
1/4" Wide (looking down from the top of it)
23/128" Thick (looking at it from its side)
23/128" Long for the flare tip (measuring parallel to its direction on the top side)
15/32" Long for the bottom plane of the flare tip (measuring from the center of its arch to its tip)
The Pin is 1/8" Diameter x 19/64" Long
The face of the Lever where the Pin goes through the Lever is 19/64" Tall (from the curved edge that touches the square washer to the long flat edge of the top of the lever)

Keep at it your almost done!

p.s.s. The bolt that goes through the Clamp Bar Nut is 1/8" in Diameter.

The14thDr · Jan 10, 2018

Hey Ridire Firean! As always, your measurements are invaluable. I actually ordered my 3D printed clamp lever yesterday, but thankfully my model looks to be more or less the same size as what you posted.

I don’t suppose you happen to know the rough overall diameter of the bulb holder? That’s the next big thing I’ll be tackling, but I’m stuck on how big it should be.

Ridire Firean · Jan 10, 2018

Hey The14thDr ! I can get the measurements for you tonight! Basically it's 1" across or so on the outside at the strappy part of the Bulb Holder. Come to think of it, I think I have a drawing with me but it'll still be a bit before I can get to it. So I might have the width of the strap, the width, and height of the folded/curved parts of the lower Ears that expand the strappy part. But the width across the circular part isn't on that sideview I drew, but you'd be able to start a basic shape anyway until tonight.

Hang in there, if my boredom overcomes my obligation, I might get that drawing in an hour or two.

The14thDr · Jan 10, 2018

Ridire Firean said:
Hey @The14thDr ! I can get the measurements for you tonight! Basically it's 1" across or so on the outside at the strappy part of the Bulb Holder. Come to think of it, I think I have a drawing with me but it'll still be a bit before I can get to it. So I might have the width of the strap, the width, and height of the folded/curved parts of the lower Ears that expand the strappy part. But the width across the circular part isn't on that sideview I drew, but you'd be able to start a basic shape anyway until tonight.

Hang in there, if my boredom overcomes my obligation, I might get that drawing in an hour or two.

That’s awesome, thanks! There’s no need to rush - the weather outside is so wet I won’t be able to start cutting the aluminium until tomorrow at least.

The good news is, with the lever and glass eye on their way as we speak, I should be able to finish this before the end of the next week.

Fabian 71 · Jan 10, 2018

Ridire Firean said:
Hey @The14thDr !

GRAFLEX Glass Eye Measurements (for a Folmer Flat Beveled Style Eye) by ~Ridire Firean as measured today, January 8, 2018:

Knurled Edge Diameter = 49/64"
Knurled Edge Thickness = 3/32"
Knurled Edge Flat Top Ring Width= 5/128"
Depth of Knurling = 1/64"
Knurling Ridge to Ridge Tooth Spacing = 1/32"
Knurl Ridges/Teeth = 55
Knurl Ridge/Teeth Bevel Top Side ONLY Depth = 1/64"
Overall Height (Spring not included) = 3/8"
Thread Diameter = 79/128"
Thread Height = 5/32"
Unthreaded Shaft Outer Diameter = 9/16"
Unthreaded Shaft Outer Height = 1/8"
Unthreaded Shaft Inner Diameter = 1/2"
Unthreaded Shaft Inner Height up from bottom to Spring Retaining Cutout Ring = about 1/16"
Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Height = about 1/16"
Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Depth = about 1/64"
Above Spring Retaining Cutout Ring Inner Shaft Width/Diameter where the Glass Eye sits beneath the hole down the center= 31/64"
Overall Inner Shaft Depth = 7/32"
Visible Glass Eye Diameter (when looking at it when it's installed on the flash) aka the hole down the center = 27/64"
Inner Bevel Lip = 1/64"-3/128" (it's very difficult to see, but you can see it!)
Actual Glass Eye Diameter = 31/64"
Actual Glass Eye Height = 29/128"
Actual Glass Eye Sidewall Thickness = 11/128"
Actual Glass Eye Lip (before the Dome of the Eye justs up out of the Sidewall) 1/128"-1/64"
Spring Height all by itself = 19/32"
Spring Width all by itself = 71/128"
Spring Width at the smaller end = 25/64"
There are 4 loops? of the Spring between the ends of its wire, and 7/32" overlap between its ends when looking down upon it (through the center, not from the side).
Spring Wire Diameter = 1/32"

If that doesn't get you more accurate, it will at least get your model very, very, very close to being a lot like my Flat Beveled Glass Eye! Depending on your modeling skills of course.

Can someone pass me the Visine now and help me uncross my eyes?

HOLY.....@#~%& ...I`m stealing this data , you are da man...

Ridire Firean · Jan 10, 2018

Fabian 71 said:
I`m stealing this data , you are da man...

O.K. but if you ever go into full production I get 11 units plus 11% of the profits.

Ridire Firean · Jan 10, 2018

Hey The14thDr ! I don't have that drawing with me today, but I'll still get those measurements for you tonight.

I probably ought to start a new GRAFLEX MEASUREMENTS THREAD, and combine all these little parts measurements into a blueprint or something.

Fabian 71 · Jan 10, 2018

Ridire Firean said:
O.K. but if you ever go into full production I get 11 units plus 11% of the profits.

Deal!! at my rate ... full production is one saber every 15 years.....

Ridire Firean · Jan 10, 2018

O.K. so, Bulb Holder Dimensions...

Diameter on the outside of the Band = 1-13/128"
Band Width = 5/8"
Band Thickness = 1/64"
Bottom-side of Bunny Ears (the flared part that spreads the Bulb Holder Band) Width (from side view of the GRAFLEX) = 25/32"
Bottom-side of Bunny Ears (the flared part that spreads the Bulb Holder Band) Height = 11/16"
Thickness of the Bunny Ears (top and bottom) = 3/64"
Drop Distance from the bottom of the inside curve of the GRAFLEX Tube to the bottom of the Bulb Holder Band = 1-35/128"

There's a few more I'm sure, but these commercial breaks on Sy-Fy Channel are way too short... so is the content part.

Anywho, if you need any more specific dimensions, just ask!

The14thDr · Jan 10, 2018

These are perfect, I seriously can’t thank you enough Ridire Firean! With your measurements I can make a start on the bulb holder tomorrow whilst I wait for the 3D printed parts to arrive.

Ridire Firean said:
I probably ought to start a new GRAFLEX MEASUREMENTS THREAD, and combine all these little parts measurements into a blueprint or something.

Oh you should, definitely. I think that would help a lot of people (it certainly helped me with my build!) If you did create that thread - perhaps titled “The DEFINITIVE GRAFLEX Measurements Thread”? - I think it should be stickied to make it easier for everyone to find.

ANH Skywalker Lightsaber Scratchbuild (metal - PIC HEAVY!)

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