Captain Morgan Frock Coat Replica

I've wanted to build a Captain Hook frock coat (1991 film version) for quite some time and after learning about other's time consuming processes, it seemed like a better option was to start a bit more simplistic. After all, every pirate needs a beautiful red justacorps coat, but which would scratch the right itch? So, I settled on the Captain Morgan coat from the 2013 ad campaign. After taking a thousand screen grabs from various points in the run of those ads, it became obvious that there were likely 2 'hero' coats, followed by a more practical coat that was flashy, but less detailed and finally a mix between the cinematic 'original' and the latest 'party coat' that certainly has come more full circle to encompass the liquor branded icon:


So, with too many choices, I'm creating a coat that is closet to #2, as long as #1, more the color of the original, but tailored more like the latest version?

It's an ambitions project to start out with but the good news is I have a pattern from Historical Reproductions and more than that, I'm going to use my secret fabric weapon -- upholstery fabric - to get the color, weight and plush that looks like this cherry/ruby red wool blend.

Stay tuned for updates!

To start, I knew that velvet was not an option (cost for one, and frankly too 'rich' looking for two) and that red wool was not the 'feel' that I wanted - so I thought about heavy and durable fabric that would not need interfacing, but would still have the look I wanted - after cruising the local Joann Fabrics, I found a perfect match -- and it was on sale: Hudson 43 Upholstery ruby red. 5 yrd at 56" wide was enough for my Reconstruction History Pattern (702).

Word to the wise, the fabric has a grain to it and the pattern says to 'fold in half' for doubling the pieces you need. Don't. I cut the right shapes but the grain was polar opposite and one side was beautiful (against grain ironically) and one side was way to smooth and almost orange -- I'll likely keep the mistake for making a Captain Hook coat in the future.

Meantime, I took the splay where the darts are built into the pattern were way to wide for my taste, so, I adjusted the pattern to reduce that by taking out about 14 inches. The pleat works just fine as the front piece and back piece make such a wide godet anyway, loosing that much material didn't effect the look. Again, the pattern is close, but the instructions were a little lackluster so more on the sleeves and the goddforsaken cuffs later.

The trick was finding the apliques/button surrounds for my coat. That was a 1000+ image searches that were essentially fruitless. I wanted these: View attachment 757933


But keywording "floral embroidery leaf lace gold" in any combination was useless -- so a costumer friend pointed me in the right direction to find the the next best coat embroidery lacing here:


Pics to come soon. Hat in the works, buttons are being sourced, modifications to the pattern continue, metallic thread is a nightmare. For such a 'simple' coat the learning curve is quite steep but we're getting there!

Progress is being made. After sewing the main jacket together, there are some interesting issues with the pattern that needed working out. First, the length of collar on the front pieces do not line up with the backs. Not a terrible issue but I'm going to have to come up with my own collar to match them. The back comes up high, and the front rather low. Also, the pattern sleeves are way too short so I've added some length as well. Finally, the dog-ear cuffs are just...awkward. I'm redesigning them from scratch.

The idea was to use an existing liner from another jacket - nothing special, just one lest thing to make -- that didn't work out. The cut was way off, the sleeves didn't insert right, the front was oddly tapered. So back to the store to find some liner -- and wouldn't you know it, they don't have the right color. So, I'm going with something way darker. In a way, I think I like this better:


At this point the body is shaped essentially the way I'd like. The rounded bottom is a struggle to get to lay flat as I blind hem the edge. I really don't want to cut out darts to make it lay better but I might have to do just that. In any case, progress. Up next is the cuff redesign, the lace button surrounds, the buttons, the lining...you know...everything.

It's an interesting learning curve, having never built a costume from scratch before, so I'm learning from my mistakes which I suppose is a good thing. The lace fabric has been cut and pinned to the main body of the coat. The hem is now in place and the cuffs are still in works (which I will definitely elaborate on later). Now the question is how to attach 20 surrounds on the main jacket, 6 per each cuff, and 8 on the rear vent. My first attempt at hand sewing one with the metallic gold thread was not successful. The fabric is too thick and the thread too weak and it seems like a daunting task to do that for 40 total surrounds. I really don't want to 'cheat' and use glue anywhere, so I'm trying to figure out if my basic sewing machine will be up to task. Here's the shape and layout as is (without cuffs, collar, or lining):

1 step forward, 2 steps back. That's how it always seems to go! I was able to secure the lace to the main jacket with my machine - metallic thread was not kind, nor does it inspire much confidence that it will hold - but all 40 surrounds are in place. Here is my test piece with button holes for practice and a look at the buttons I sourced. They're not the openweave gold like the commercials, there more subtle but I really like them:


The cuffs have been a nightmare. The original pattern does not account for sizing the cuffs to the arm hole. There is far more cuff, and it hangs awkward. I removed about 4 inches of material all around, doubled it to act as a type of 'lining' and sewed the pieces together - then took them apart, redid them with the surrounds, put them back together and hand stitched to the arms. The first attempt to hand stitch the lace to the cuff was a terrible attempt to I machined them too:

I have to say, I think the final coat will be well worth it - happy how it's coming along!

Here's where we are so far: the cuffs are attached to the sleeves, but aren't staying in place very well (too floppy) but I think that will be remedied with the addition of the buttons; the lining is sewed but not inserted just yet; the button holes and buttons are not yet added. Overall though, the fit is quite nice, it's a great weight and feel and I'm digging the shape. Ignore the hat, that's a temporary one for now.

Pics coming soon - hand stitching the lining to the coat is exhausting, anyone who does this often has my respect/sympathy! Still liking how the coat is coming out, but worry about a few things. One: the godets are still too wide for my taste, even having taken out a total of almost 30inches. I am at the point that I will not be reducing them further, but they are wider than anticipated. Two: the lace surrounds may need additional stitching. I do not have a free motion machine, so I was only able to secure them in a few locations, I worry they will fray at minimum and pull off entirely worst-case-scenario. Third: those cuffs just don't want to stay in place so I might need to sew them to the sleeve somehow, hopefully that won't 'ware' awkwardly. Learning along the way, but even simple details seem to take forever!

Took some liberties with how the final look might come together. On it's own, it definitely has the feel I want, but is almost a little plain? Simple is fine, but not entirely thrilling. Not sure, so I'm mixing up belts, sashes and weapons and their placement to get a fuller style. Pleased with the progress for sure: