Need Help with Rocketeer Cirrus X3 Rocketpack Electronics

This project has inspired me to program a ''sound effects chip/circuit'' with my own edited rocket thrust sound
as an experiment. I typed in rocket sounds on google and this web sight came up:
https://www.pond5.com/sound-effects/1/rocket.html

I think the one I chose was for the Space Shuttle sound.
I was looking for a fairly robust thrust sound.

On occasion I get projects that use various sound effects as part of there function and this was just a way to exercise
my learning skills.
I really do like this chip. Very versatile. You can get this one on eBay as well as a smaller size 16p too.
There is also an Arduino Compatible version to program it by using the USB port.
Youtube has a ton of videos on the subject of programming these sound effects circuits..

The version I am using here has several input buttons that can be programmed to "function" a specific way and also has 10 buttons/address locations to interact with the loaded sounds. I am using the first two address locations.


https://youtu.be/Y7Uh7etepFQ

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The speaker installation is a brilliant idea! If Valor does another another run, I'll borrow your idea. Thank you for the step by step install.

Absolutely! Glad it gave you some inspiration and is helpful!
I love the idea of having the sound come from where it naturally would, and the copper color of the speaker cones look like they belong in a rocket, and heck, might even help reflect the light from the LED ring!
 
This project has inspired me to program a ''sound effects chip/circuit'' with my own edited rocket thrust sound
as an experiment. I typed in rocket sounds on google and this web sight came up:
https://www.pond5.com/sound-effects/1/rocket.html

I think the one I chose was for the Space Shuttle sound.
I was looking for a fairly robust thrust sound.

On occasion I get projects that use various sound effects as part of there function and this was just a way to exercise
my learning skills.
I really do like this chip. Very versatile. You can get this one on eBay as well as a smaller size 16p too.
There is also an Arduino Compatible version to program it by using the USB port.
Youtube has a ton of videos on the subject of programming these sound effects circuits..

The version I am using here has several input buttons that can be programmed to "function" a specific way and also has 10 buttons/address locations to interact with the loaded sounds. I am using the first two address locations.

https://youtu.be/Y7Uh7etepFQ

https://youtu.be/Y7Uh7etepFQ

.

I love this so much!
As an audio engineer and sound designer by profession, I can really appreciate this!
You're thinking along the same lines as I was too. At one point I was considering looking into programming my own sounds, but the chip that ReplicaProps.com provides meets all the needs.
One thing I'm contemplating about, is with the sequence of events with the lights and sound, right now the rocket lights turn on immediately, but the sound has that engine rev up sound before the booster sound actually plays. It would cool to figure out a way to delay the lights some to fire when the booster sound actually engages, if that makes sense.
 
I watched a youtube trailer that showed that when the rocket pack was used for the first time, he had one switch in each hand (I think)
for each rocket. This is what I was going for in the sound "start up" sequence. (quick double click) and I wanted the thrust to fade off as well
as the turbine "wind down" effect at the same time.
I think with your set up, the push button switch you are using has a DPDT (two separate internal switches).
One switch activates the sound board to run through the sequence and the other turns the LED rings on/off.
You would need a slight delay circuit after the switch is pressed for the LED's to turn on giving the sound time
go through the start up.
Since your LED rings turn on now by the actual closing of a set of contacts in the switch, you can use a small time delayed circuit between
that switch and a coil on a small relay. This would then pull in the contact after a small delay to turn on your LED's.
The coil to the relay would get a high enough voltage to pull in the N.O. contact in the relay to turn on the lights.
There is of cource several ways to do this. Some might say a 555 timer or a Arduino Micro-control.

Since the delay would be so short, the old school way might be sufficient.
You could use a medium value capacitor (100mf), NPN transistor and a few resistors as a way to delay the activation
of a coil on a small relay.
The positive of the 12vDc would go through a resistor then to the + 100mf capacitor to ground.
This same point would also go through another small value resistor to the BASE of a 2n2222 NPN transistor.
The collector of the NPN would go to the gnd side of the 12v coil and the other end of the coil to POS. +.
The emitter of the NPN would go to gnd. - .
When the voltage on the base of the transistor reaches a high enough voltage (charge the capacitor) the coil pulls in.

Below is a rough sketch - Values may vary.
time delay circuit.jpg

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I watched a youtube trailer that showed that when the rocket pack was used for the first time, he had one switch in each hand (I think)
for each rocket. This is what I was going for in the sound "start up" sequence. (quick double click) and I wanted the thrust to fade off as well
as the turbine "wind down" effect at the same time.
I think with your set up, the push button switch you are using has a DPDT (two separate internal switches).
One switch activates the sound board to run through the sequence and the other turns the LED rings on/off.
You would need a slight delay circuit after the switch is pressed for the LED's to turn on giving the sound time
go through the start up.
Since your LED rings turn on now by the actual closing of a set of contacts in the switch, you can use a small time delayed circuit between
that switch and a coil on a small relay. This would then pull in the contact after a small delay to turn on your LED's.
The coil to the relay would get a high enough voltage to pull in the N.O. contact in the relay to turn on the lights.
There is of cource several ways to do this. Some might say a 555 timer or a Arduino Micro-control.

Since the delay would be so short, the old school way might be sufficient.
You could use a medium value capacitor (100mf), NPN transistor and a few resistors as a way to delay the activation
of a coil on a small relay.
The positive of the 12vDc would go through a resistor then to the + 100mf capacitor to ground.
This same point would also go through another small value resistor to the BASE of a 2n2222 NPN transistor.
The collector of the NPN would go to the gnd side of the 12v coil and the other end of the coil to POS. +.
The emitter of the NPN would go to gnd. - .
When the voltage on the base of the transistor reaches a high enough voltage (charge the capacitor) the coil pulls in.

.


Wow! So many great options and possibilities! Thank you for the great ideas!
 
Update time!

Well, I'm happy to announce that the pack is 99% complete!!!
I got everything wired up and everything "works!"

IMG_1313.jpg IMG_1314.jpg

The reason I quote "works" is because I seem to be having an issue with the sound card. The sound card only works if I put VERY FIRM pressure on top of it. Once I let go the sound cuts off. The amount of pressure I have yo place on the sound card is far greater than the rubber bands that came over it from Valor.
See the video example below:

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gzyg525fe0xksio/IMG_1315.MOV?dl=0[/video]

I will email replicaprops.com (maker of the sound board) to see if they can shed any light on the matter.

Other than that, everything else appears to work great! The new 10 cm diameter LED lights are great. The Speakers sound fantastic! AND the fan now starts and stops with the momentary push button! FINALLY!

The only few things to button up are: The issue with the sound board, mounting the batteries inside with strong velcro, and devising a new way to attach the top piece of the pack to be easily removable (right now it attaches with a small bolt).

I'll keep you posted on the status of the sound board once I hear back.
 
Excellent :)
Looks and sounds great! (when it works) :)
I hear that the "start-up and thrust sound starts as the sound board is being triggered.
When you release the button we hear the "shut-down" sound begin and it apparently continues even when you remove the pressure on the board
and we still hear it winding down each time you press and release.
This sounds like it might be a bad wire connection on the speaker output pins ( 9 - 10 ) on your board, of one of the wires.
You mentioned earlier that you are going to run the sound "speaker" output from the sound board, then though an AMP, then to the both speakers.
The wire may be loose from the speaker output (9 and 10) to the AMP input.

sound board wiring.jpg

If you have an OHM meter you can check continuity of the connections (2 wires) from the amp to the sound board.

I see in the photo that you have removed the board from the pins on the holder:

sound board2.jpg

When you replaced the Sound Board, make sure of a solid connection on Pin 9 and Pin 10.

sound board2a.jpg
Are you plugging the sound board into a 28 pin socket?
Also, if the pins look good, it might be a "cold" solder connection under the board?

Here is a picture of your ''First'' sound board with the rubber band.
What is the rubber band for?

If the pins on the sound board appear to short, maybe a 28 pin socket will improve this?
Check pins 9 and 10:

sound board.jpg

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Yeah, Rob from ReplicaProps.com agrees that since the sound continues when I release pressure from the sound board and then re-apply pressure, that he thinks it's something with the solder joints on the terminal adaptor.
I originally was thinking that the pins on the sound board were too short, but if that were the case I would a assume the sound sequence would start over again every time I put pressure back on the sound board. (which actually did happen once in the video)
I'll check tonight when I get home from work to make sure the solder joints on the board are all good. That's the only thing I can think of that would be affected by pressure, other than the pins on the sound board.
The rubber band was just there to help hold the sound board on the terminal adaptor. Purely as a precaution from what I can tell.
 
I just checked all the solder joints and they all appear to be fine.
I also heard back from Rob again and he said the pin length wouldn't be the issue here.

hmmmm...
 
Dang.
Hopefully it is not some fault internally inside the new sealed blue box with the circuit encased inside.
If it is external, you may be able the narrow it down by pressing specific spots on and around the circuit.
If you had an ohm meter, you could check the continuity of the wiring from the chip (pin 9 and pin 10) to the amp. input
(no power applied).

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With all due respect to Rob, I disagree wit him. As I was doing the kits, I noticed that some of the soundboards wouldn't "seat" well into the terminal board. I did speak to him about this and actually swapped a couple out with him. I believe it is the blue plastic used for the body of the soundboard. Some of them are a bit messier and cover more of the pins than others.

I just checked all the solder joints and they all appear to be fine.
I also heard back from Rob again and he said the pin length wouldn't be the issue here.

hmmmm...
 
Sometimes you maybe able to add the 28 pin socket to extend the pins.
That way it would possibly fit the terminal board as designed.
Maybe you can switch it out for a working one?

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With all due respect to Rob, I disagree wit him. As I was doing the kits, I noticed that some of the soundboards wouldn't "seat" well into the terminal board. I did speak to him about this and actually swapped a couple out with him. I believe it is the blue plastic used for the body of the soundboard. Some of them are a bit messier and cover more of the pins than others.

Yeah, you generously swapped the first sound board I had because that one didn't work, way before I even started all this!
Even that sound board in build was a bit crooked and slightly messy.
BUT.....
See my next post....
 
Sometimes you maybe able to add the 28 pin socket to extend the pins.
That way it would possibly fit the terminal board as designed.
Maybe you can switch it out for a working one?

.

It turns out you and I were thinking in the right mindset regarding the pins and their length...
And I found a fix/solution!!!
To help with possible contact of the pins in the terminal adapter, I ever so slightly bent pins 9 and 10 so that they might make a more firm contact within the terminal adapter.
Low and behold...
IT WORKS!

But I found it only works if I bend the pins in a certain direction.
My first try I had them bent in opposite directions and the sound would trigger, but not stop upon release of the push button.
So I found that the pins both going only the direction that they are is what works.

IMG_1340.jpg

Weird, I know, but hey, at least now I can rest (somewhat) assured now.


Here's a video of it finally functioning properly!....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ruvhtmw8yi1p5e/IMG_1341.MOV?dl=0

Next step is to get strong velcro to place the batteries inside the pack and then I'll be done!!!
...until "TheRocketeer" finishes his project run for harnesses and gauntlets...
Then I'll really be done ;)
 
Great news! That's the coolest thing ever!
Those speakers really make it sound nice.
Can't wait to see the final set up.
P.S.
Sometimes you can add solder to the pins to "thicken" them up a bit.
This may help improve the pins touching the contacts in the terminal adapter.
It has been a long road.....

A fine job. :)
 
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Great news! That's the coolest thing ever!
Those speakers really make it sound nice.
Can't wait to see the final set up.
P.S.
Sometimes you can add solder to the pins to "thicken" them up a bit.
This may help improve the pins touching the contacts in the terminal adapter.
It has been a long road.....

A fine job. :)


Thank you so much!
Yeah, I'm actually really happy with how the speakers turned out.
Funny you mention adding solder to the pins, I was actually thinking about that if my bent pin method didn't work.
Heck, I even started thinking about just soldering the sound board directly to the terminal adapter circuit board.

It has been a long road indeed, but I cannot thank you enough for your incredible help and support along the way, truly. Thank you so SO much!!

In the meantime, here's a teaser of me in my Rocketeer outfit from last Halloween...

20161027sl_StaffRally_Halloween-144.JPG

And here's two videos of my pack all put together now with the complete functioning electronics...

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/so0svxclp139x8o/IMG_1343.MOV?dl=0[/video]

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/spks7o1mcdsodg0/IMG_1345.MOV?dl=0[/video]
 
Nice videos. I'm glad you kept at it.
I didn't want to see you give up on this after all the ups and downs along the way.

When Halloween gets here take lots of pics and videos.
Good job :)

Still fiddling with my little project:


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Nice videos. I'm glad you kept at it.
I didn't want to see you give up on this after all the ups and downs along the way.

When Halloween gets here take lots of pics and videos.
Good job :)

Still fiddling with my little project:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgX3_qY1UO8

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Oh man! I LOVE your setup! It's so compact! And everything off of one 12v power source! It's basically my dream setup!
But I especially love the light effect with the delayed on, flickering, and slow flicker off. That's genius!
You're definitely going to have to keep me in the loop with your progress.
That is way too cool and I want one! haha
 
Since I will never have the full costume or a Rocketpack, this was the best I could do.
I bought the 6" Rocketeer action figure but it was missing something......



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