One clue I gave another member of the boards, when he mentioned having his kids help him figure it out, is that not all kids may be familiar with those figamajigs as adult supervision may be required(depending on their age)
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Deadpool 2:Cable
- Thread starter JLeezy23
- Start date
One clue I gave another member of the boards, when he mentioned having his kids help him figure it out, is that not all kids may be familiar with those figamajigs as adult supervision may be required(depending on their age)
These pics are from the official promo photo shoot, so they're fair game. Hopefully they help
And at midnight the digital download will be for sale, so we can get some HD screen grabs!
If that still doesn’t give it away, here’s the picture of the one I had near me when I drew the shape from my other screencap. Spoiler alert, as it may give it away. Click at your own risk.
If that still doesn’t give it away, here’s the picture of the one I had near me when I drew the shape from my other screencap. Spoiler alert, as it may give it away. Click at your own risk.
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Evil Spoon
New Member
Evil Spoon
New Member
The dial on the BFG is defiantly on the left hand side half way down, not on the right near the stock.
Maverick313
New Member
They look like butane lighters.
kcpstudio
Sr Member
Evil Spoon
New Member
I thought the very same thing at 1st but if you look closely on the left of them it looks like clear acrylic, this got me thinking of something like a strobe or a tactical flash bang (something more compact)
They're totally lighters. I think I have some that are exactly the same at home. They do have a clear bottom as that's where the butane reservoir is located. It's clear so you can see if you're outta fuel.
There is a lot of focus on the BFG (and rightly so, its so awesome) , I love all the BFG builds here. Except for a couple minor details that have been ironed out recently on this thread I am fine with my build on the BFG.
Lately I have been focusing on the arm. I made an arm after the first images were released, but it was not accurate due to not enough reference.
I might start another thread for the arm or may just post here but here is the first couple of test pics of the arm on and first lights added.
My son is helping me wire it up and in the end the wires will be concealed .
Lately I have been focusing on the arm. I made an arm after the first images were released, but it was not accurate due to not enough reference.
I might start another thread for the arm or may just post here but here is the first couple of test pics of the arm on and first lights added.
My son is helping me wire it up and in the end the wires will be concealed .
The arm definitely needs more love in this thread! I keep rebuilding mine and scrapping it, so I haven’t even attempted to post any info on it. Keep the updates coming, the lights look amazing! 3 yellow LEDs on a 9V power supply?
Yep! In this pic there are 3 amber LEDs wired to a 9 volt. We plan on adding 2-3 more. I have hand drawn templates and progress pics I will post up soon.
While I really like the poncho look a ton its a little cumbersome to wear and pin on. I agree with your earlier post above and am working on the shemagh and ripped shirt load out.
Arm progress:
I made templates , then pieced them together
Fortunately the bottom/forearm part of the Cable arm looks big.
I made the foam a little bigger than the templates because it would be going over a sleeve with cables and needed room for lights
I made the individual pieces then used contact cement to glue it all together. it Velcro's in the back as seen in this last pic.
I made templates , then pieced them together
Fortunately the bottom/forearm part of the Cable arm looks big.
I made the foam a little bigger than the templates because it would be going over a sleeve with cables and needed room for lights
I made the individual pieces then used contact cement to glue it all together. it Velcro's in the back as seen in this last pic.
The cables in the forearm Velcro in individually so there is space for the light to shine through.
The back of the lower arm was more difficult . I could only find one or 2 images and I am not sure they are official images. so I made that Velcro too so I could change it if better images come out.
Started adding some of the detail on the front and back
Then I plasti-dipped it all after a quick heat seal
.
For the top part of the arm I had purchased an Evil Ted pattern for a generic robot arm . I adjusted it to fit me better and
made it Velcro on the back also.
I am working on the 3rd template of the shoulder right now, V1 is in one of the pics above. it has been hard to get the size and design just right
here is v2 its a tad big IMO.
The back of the lower arm was more difficult . I could only find one or 2 images and I am not sure they are official images. so I made that Velcro too so I could change it if better images come out.
Started adding some of the detail on the front and back
Then I plasti-dipped it all after a quick heat seal
.
For the top part of the arm I had purchased an Evil Ted pattern for a generic robot arm . I adjusted it to fit me better and
made it Velcro on the back also.
I am working on the 3rd template of the shoulder right now, V1 is in one of the pics above. it has been hard to get the size and design just right
here is v2 its a tad big IMO.
Attachments
Mounting a FENIX TK76 to Your Brolin-BFG <$20USD w/o Expensive Tools
So I decided to whip up a quick “how-to” for the Fenix mounting using a Picatinny Quick-Detach Mount in an insanely sturdy way for under $20 USD, showing what I’ve whipped up for now.
I’m going to explain some of the process in detail for anyone that is interested, or doesn’t have access to the pieces I’ve used and is looking for insight into their own new way of tackling this small project. If you’re not interested in me babbling on; skip to the pictures. Since I actually decided this was a project worth sharing, I took pictures in such a way that they should speak for themselves (ish).
As mentioned by Kenney in a previous post, the Fenix actually has a threaded hole on the back of it. So my first major interest was figuring out what type of fastener/screw/bolt was supposed to go in there. Smart people would probably have started by looking at the box, but I found over the course of this project that I may actually be a complete bafoon. I proceeded to try for ten or so minutes to match threads and diameters by a complete blitz with some fasteners... Had I looked at the box, before I excitedly ripped it out and threw in batteries to almost accidentally blind myself, I may have noticed a very classy image of the torch mounted on a tripod. For years I had worked in the photography industry and instantly realized what it was; it’s the “standard” mounting screw for cameras! This takes a 1/4” diameter screw/bolt that has 20 threads per inch (the swivles / screwy bits). If you go to a hardware store, they are listed as 1/4”-20 and then followed by a number which represents their length (in the USA, this is usually in inches).
I had already bought a Quick-Detach mount for a bipod, as I figured it would be the easiest mount to attach the torch to without having the torch raised too far off of the weapon. The best part about these mounts, however, is the part that attaches to a bipod actually uses a lip/edge to keep from falling out (much like we need for a screw or bolt). So I measured roughly how long of a screw I needed, which was between 1/2” and 3/4”, and went from there. I ended up finding 1/4”-20 1/2” screws at the Home Depot near my work, which was about $1.50 USD for 2 screws. They fit PERFECTLY.
Alright, so here’s what we’ve got:
I picked up this exact mount (actually two of them - the other is being filed down and mounted to my Chip-Set for the BFG):
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Detach...ipod+Sling+Adapter+for+Picatinny+Weaver+Rails
Then I snagged a package of Everbilt 1/4”-20 1/2” Button Cap (somewhat important, also called Crown as the can rest on the lip inside the mount) Socket Cap Screws. Like mentioned above, this cost me under $2 USD after tax for two. Also, the head you use is completely optional, probably pick one based off of what tools you have at your disposal. I’ve been using hex screws almost exclusively for this build, a personal preference, and the closest thing I could find on Amazon was: https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socke...tainless+Steel,+Quantity+25+,+Allen+Hex+Drive
NOTE: you don’t need vice grips or an allen set to do this. Any type or wrench and a screw driver can easily be used, just buy you fastener accordingly.
First thing tou want to do is disassemble the QD mount. With the model I bought, I just slapped vice grips on the nut and voila. Be careful not to lose springs or washers, as most of these mounts will have & NEED them. Once it’s disassembled, get rid of that little nipple that would normally attach the bipod. Then you’ll see that lip I had mentioned earlier, and be ready to screw this sucker on.
Direction of mount is a strange thing. I tried a few configurations and landed with pulling the lever tight by bringing it back towards the stock while above the torch. If you want to know why I chose to mount it this way, PM me, as it’s a lot of relatively unneeded information that would only fascinate some tactically mindedfolks. So let’s step by step this part:
1.) Imagine how you want the lever to close while it’s attached to the side of your BFG
2.) Align your mount, lever, hardware, and torch
3.) Flip everything over in that same orientation, so you can access the threaded hole on the back of the TK76
4.) Screw your mount down to the Fenix (feel free to use lock-tite or some other product to keep the torch and mount straight, I just cranked it hard AF though, being careful not to wreck the threads or head). Once screwed down, place the springs into the mount
5.) Slide the lever into the mount, being mindful of the springs and preparing the rest of your hardware
6.) Grab a wrench/pliers/channel-locks/vice-grips/whatever and reassemble the mount. Truthfully, it’s best to tighten these in the closed position on a rail, but it’s not needed if you don’t have a rail laying about.
7.) Admire how pretty it is and how easy it was. You’re a rockstar!
Boom! Less than $20, and doesn’t require power tools. Not a bad way to do it. I know I plan to change this set up a little; drilling and countersinking one of the other holes so I can adjust and tighten the screw w/o having to tear down the whole mount. But for the time being, this will get me through the con in just over a week.
I’ve done a ton of work over the past couple weeks, but I have some more work to do this weekend. A little glimpse of how my BFG is looking:
I need to touch up the quick-detach stock mount (it’s not as sturdy as I’d like), refinish the entire shroud with a spritz of paint, and hopefully replace my butane lighters with something a little more accurate (those are the two I actually have at home). Other than that, this BFG is going to be filed as “con-ready” and left alone until I finish my arm and touch up my poncho. I’ll probably throw up a more in-depth post on how I mounted the shroud/stock/barrel soon, but wanted to get the torch mount explained for others first.
So I decided to whip up a quick “how-to” for the Fenix mounting using a Picatinny Quick-Detach Mount in an insanely sturdy way for under $20 USD, showing what I’ve whipped up for now.
I’m going to explain some of the process in detail for anyone that is interested, or doesn’t have access to the pieces I’ve used and is looking for insight into their own new way of tackling this small project. If you’re not interested in me babbling on; skip to the pictures. Since I actually decided this was a project worth sharing, I took pictures in such a way that they should speak for themselves (ish).
As mentioned by Kenney in a previous post, the Fenix actually has a threaded hole on the back of it. So my first major interest was figuring out what type of fastener/screw/bolt was supposed to go in there. Smart people would probably have started by looking at the box, but I found over the course of this project that I may actually be a complete bafoon. I proceeded to try for ten or so minutes to match threads and diameters by a complete blitz with some fasteners... Had I looked at the box, before I excitedly ripped it out and threw in batteries to almost accidentally blind myself, I may have noticed a very classy image of the torch mounted on a tripod. For years I had worked in the photography industry and instantly realized what it was; it’s the “standard” mounting screw for cameras! This takes a 1/4” diameter screw/bolt that has 20 threads per inch (the swivles / screwy bits). If you go to a hardware store, they are listed as 1/4”-20 and then followed by a number which represents their length (in the USA, this is usually in inches).
I had already bought a Quick-Detach mount for a bipod, as I figured it would be the easiest mount to attach the torch to without having the torch raised too far off of the weapon. The best part about these mounts, however, is the part that attaches to a bipod actually uses a lip/edge to keep from falling out (much like we need for a screw or bolt). So I measured roughly how long of a screw I needed, which was between 1/2” and 3/4”, and went from there. I ended up finding 1/4”-20 1/2” screws at the Home Depot near my work, which was about $1.50 USD for 2 screws. They fit PERFECTLY.
Alright, so here’s what we’ve got:
I picked up this exact mount (actually two of them - the other is being filed down and mounted to my Chip-Set for the BFG):
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Detach...ipod+Sling+Adapter+for+Picatinny+Weaver+Rails
Then I snagged a package of Everbilt 1/4”-20 1/2” Button Cap (somewhat important, also called Crown as the can rest on the lip inside the mount) Socket Cap Screws. Like mentioned above, this cost me under $2 USD after tax for two. Also, the head you use is completely optional, probably pick one based off of what tools you have at your disposal. I’ve been using hex screws almost exclusively for this build, a personal preference, and the closest thing I could find on Amazon was: https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socke...tainless+Steel,+Quantity+25+,+Allen+Hex+Drive
NOTE: you don’t need vice grips or an allen set to do this. Any type or wrench and a screw driver can easily be used, just buy you fastener accordingly.
First thing tou want to do is disassemble the QD mount. With the model I bought, I just slapped vice grips on the nut and voila. Be careful not to lose springs or washers, as most of these mounts will have & NEED them. Once it’s disassembled, get rid of that little nipple that would normally attach the bipod. Then you’ll see that lip I had mentioned earlier, and be ready to screw this sucker on.
Direction of mount is a strange thing. I tried a few configurations and landed with pulling the lever tight by bringing it back towards the stock while above the torch. If you want to know why I chose to mount it this way, PM me, as it’s a lot of relatively unneeded information that would only fascinate some tactically mindedfolks. So let’s step by step this part:
1.) Imagine how you want the lever to close while it’s attached to the side of your BFG
2.) Align your mount, lever, hardware, and torch
3.) Flip everything over in that same orientation, so you can access the threaded hole on the back of the TK76
4.) Screw your mount down to the Fenix (feel free to use lock-tite or some other product to keep the torch and mount straight, I just cranked it hard AF though, being careful not to wreck the threads or head). Once screwed down, place the springs into the mount
5.) Slide the lever into the mount, being mindful of the springs and preparing the rest of your hardware
6.) Grab a wrench/pliers/channel-locks/vice-grips/whatever and reassemble the mount. Truthfully, it’s best to tighten these in the closed position on a rail, but it’s not needed if you don’t have a rail laying about.
7.) Admire how pretty it is and how easy it was. You’re a rockstar!
Boom! Less than $20, and doesn’t require power tools. Not a bad way to do it. I know I plan to change this set up a little; drilling and countersinking one of the other holes so I can adjust and tighten the screw w/o having to tear down the whole mount. But for the time being, this will get me through the con in just over a week.
I’ve done a ton of work over the past couple weeks, but I have some more work to do this weekend. A little glimpse of how my BFG is looking:
I need to touch up the quick-detach stock mount (it’s not as sturdy as I’d like), refinish the entire shroud with a spritz of paint, and hopefully replace my butane lighters with something a little more accurate (those are the two I actually have at home). Other than that, this BFG is going to be filed as “con-ready” and left alone until I finish my arm and touch up my poncho. I’ll probably throw up a more in-depth post on how I mounted the shroud/stock/barrel soon, but wanted to get the torch mount explained for others first.
cogai
New Member
Just a FYI. I ordered this poncho this morning 8/20. Order placed at 0530, all is fine. At 0715 I get an alert from my credit card company that someone has tried to use my card number to purchase almost 600 bucks worth of clothing in Paris, France.Transaction denied (my security settings are pretty tight). I was at work in America when this happened. I have tried to contact the company and advise them of the situation, couldn't get a person had to leave a message. So check you statements and proceed as you see fit. Might be a coincidence but, unfortunately, probably isn't.
You are the 3rd person in this thread. It did not happen to me but there were posts after that where others had this happen. Sorry for the bad advice , but I was not aware of this issue when I originally posted it.
I edited my original post and took the vendor/website out so maybe this wont happen again, but it was quoted a number of times.
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