My 31" "20,000 Leagues Under The Sea" Nautilus Build

Timey,

I'm looking at a few photos and I watched the movie again the other night...the eye ball lights at the top of the wheel house appear to be slightly green. I installed green LEDs and it looks too green. I have a theory that the lights are a dull yellow, and the water rushing over them gives them the green hue...what color did you use for yours? I'm thinking of trying some white ones and hitting them with a yellow sharpie for the dull yellow effect. not to bother you so much, but when you have time.

thanks
 
Timey,

I'm looking at a few photos and I watched the movie again the other night...the eye ball lights at the top of the wheel house appear to be slightly green. I installed green LEDs and it looks too green. I have a theory that the lights are a dull yellow, and the water rushing over them gives them the green hue...what color did you use for yours? I'm thinking of trying some white ones and hitting them with a yellow sharpie for the dull yellow effect. not to bother you so much, but when you have time.

thanks

Yeah, I think they're a warm white (yellowish) which is consistent with incandescent light bulbs, where your average white LED (which I'm using) is a more pure white. I was considering tinting the backs of the domes over the lights a pale yellow. I'll have to do some experimentation.
 
Here are a couple of pictures of mine. For some reason my phone camera does not do justice to the paint scheme. No matter what lighting I use, it simply will not pick up the minute detail of the paint job. Trust me, it looks much better in person than it does in these pictures. That's kind of why I've never posted any pics of it here (stupid phone). I'm actually pretty proud of how it turned out. But mainly I just wanted to show you the stand I made for it. I like it much better than the two stand pieces that came with the kit. Also to see the pieces I used for the smaller floodlights. Phooey on those googly eyes, no matter how hard I tried I just couldn't get those things cut straight. If your lights are flush with the indentions of the model, perhaps the cabochons would work for you. I just searched "glass cabochons" on Amazon. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly which sizes fit which, but I do remember that the alligator eyes were 1mm smaller than the smallest floodlights. I used a mixture of silver and pearl white for the paint behind them. Obviously, I used the plastic domes that came with the kit for the wheelhouse and the main two portholes.

Maybe it will give you some ideas.
View attachment 751157
View attachment 751158


Nice build and paintjob! what color/weathering technique did you use and is this kit still avalable?

GFollano
 
the rather lame Pegasus version :thumbsup[/QUOTE said:
I wouldnt say the Pegasus is lame its actually a beautiful well made detailed kit with many photoetched parts, mine is still in the box even though I'm not a huge Nautilus fan I had to get it as I love the design and dynamic display, but I agree the movie version is the one to get ;)

GFollano
 
I wouldnt say the Pegasus is lame its actually a beautiful well made detailed kit with many photoetched parts, mine is still in the box even though I'm not a huge Nautilus fan I had to get it as I love the design and dynamic display, but I agree the movie version is the one to get ;)

GFollano

I wasn't so much bashing the Pegasus, more quoting my friend that sent it for me to build for him. The Peg of itself is a fine kit, and I've seen a few vids of it done very nicely. He REALLY wants the movie version, understandably but didn't or couldn't spend that much...but I was intent on making that happen. Unfortunately, I've since developed a thing for this one I procured. I'm going to build both simultaneously and send him his Pegasus. THEN, I'll share with him that I built the big fish. Too much of an investment to do it nice and then he might take forever paying me for it. if he likes mine enough, and wants one, he can pre-pay for the kit and whatever upgrades he wants, then I'll build it for free...like the Pegasus.
I'm glad I never told him what was up...it relieves me of the obligation to give him the big one.:lol
 
Nice build and paintjob! what color/weathering technique did you use and is this kit still avalable?

GFollano

I bought the kit from Bob Martin at Nautilus Drydocks
https://www.rc-submarine.com/
and the paintjob I got from his video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8DmtnCI4lo
Bob is a great guy. I e-mailed him several times during my build asking questions and gathering info. He always responded very promptly and was always happy to share and hear new ideas. (He is dead set on those googly eyes, though. Nothing I could say could convince him otherwise LOL)

There is also a good Facebook group on the Nautilus. I found all my information there.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/217423175094625/

The stand I built myself from wooden dowels and some "plaque" boards I found at Wal-mart. The corrugated stuff is some kind of rubber lining that is used to line toolboxes that I had laying around. I used a drill press to drill the holes into the bottom hull, starting with a very small bit and gradually working up to the correct size. I had to build and epoxy in a wooden "interior" into the inside of the bottom hull to have something for the dowels to anchor into. That took some trial and error, but I think it turned out nice.
 
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Railing do-over!

Based on a reference photo someone pointed out to me, I made a more accurate front railing, and installed it a bit further back. Just have to fill the mounting holes from the previous version.

45.jpg
 
Railing do-over!

Based on a reference photo someone pointed out to me, I made a more accurate front railing, and installed it a bit further back. Just have to fill the mounting holes from the previous version.

http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/45.jpg

Looks good man! the photo I have shows it right at the edge of that step, but what you had before looked too close to the wheel. the guy could sit on the rail while steering the ship.
I think the spacing now is just right for what we have to work with, I will be placing mine accordingly. :thumbsup
I haven't touched mine in a few days :unsure too much other crap going on. I did pick up the Modern Masters oxidizer yesterday. Hoping to get to that on Sunday. but may not happen for the upper half. Tracking shows my Shapeways not getting here till Monday. I could do the lower though. I know a lot of guys like to do more assembly before paint. This paint process of Bob Martin's looks easy, but still uncharted water. if I have to strip away a goof, I'd rather it be a bare item.
Anyway, have a great weekend and keep the updates coming, the info is extremely helpful and I thank you again.
:thumbsup
 
I pulled the green LED's and took some white ones and sanded them with emery to dull them down, then went over them a few times with yellow sharpie
pretty sure I nailed itIMG_1680.JPGIMG_1679.JPGIMG_1678.JPG
 
Railing do-over!

Based on a reference photo someone pointed out to me, I made a more accurate front railing, and installed it a bit further back. Just have to fill the mounting holes from the previous version.

http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/45.jpg
Hey Timey
you got any slick way of grinding your acrylic eyes down? I'm planting them in my thumb and filing down with a narrow hobby file... taking forever
ive got a hobby size belt sander but it runs too fast and I think it'd fly out of my hand:(
 
Hey Timey
you got any slick way of grinding your acrylic eyes down? I'm planting them in my thumb and filing down with a narrow hobby file... taking forever
ive got a hobby size belt sander but it runs too fast and I think it'd fly out of my hand:(

Nope. I did one so far, by hand on a piece of sandpaper, accidentally sanded a lot of the fingernail off my index finger! By the time I got the 3/8" dome down to 1/4" diameter by sanding from the back (and a little around the sides) it was flat on the back, so I could have just as easily started with acrylic spheres (more to grind off, but cheaper).

One annoying thing is that all these domes have a tiny dimple in the center, possibly an ejection pin mark.
 
Nope. I did one so far, by hand on a piece of sandpaper, accidentally sanded a lot of the fingernail off my index finger! By the time I got the 3/8" dome down to 1/4" diameter by sanding from the back (and a little around the sides) it was flat on the back, so I could have just as easily started with acrylic spheres (more to grind off, but cheaper).

One annoying thing is that all these domes have a tiny dimple in the center, possibly an ejection pin mark.
Same here, I was using a 3/8 file, it worked but it took an hour to do one. The second one I put between my thumb and fore finger and hacked with the xacto saw. cut was sloppy but by the time I filed it to 1/4 it was all good. Not looking forward to doing the other 12 I can tell you. I'm thinking of emailing or calling Kit Kraft on Monday and asking if they can make up some 1/4 inch. How tough could that be, right?
you got a Masterpiece kit, right? This thing is such a pile. I traded a few emails with Bob Martin abut a few things, nice dude...and he said, "yeah, good luck with that kit"
I guess his are better, but more money. you get what you pay for I guess. you know though, he did offer to send me another raker arch for 20 buck flat, including shipping because he felt bad for me. I said I had already fixed it, but it's something to think on if you don't want to fix yours, I'm sure he'd do it.
Anther thing I came upon, very disappointed...the wheel house bubble windows, too deep. had to slice them down and make a new lip. they'll be fine but we shouldn't have to do that huh.
I'd put pics up but they'll be upside down, tried it from my IPhone too, same thing. I'll do from work Monday. chart room and landing in, spiral railing done, have the other one yet to do.
I extended the chart room up to be under the forward hatch as I'm going to display with hatches open and make ladders and have ambient lighting from the inside like you did. Also, and this is going to be soooo cool, the aft hatch will be open and a well underneath with a ladder, but I've also got some flickering LED's blue, orange and red
to simulate the power plant. I know, I'm getting carried away, right.
Did you see my other post on the monster eye lights? once the 1/4 inch eyes were in, it looked perfect. also, the excess light from one of them shines down the float tube and makes it glow. you probably did the same.
Well, I'm off to the couch for a movie and cocktails. fresh start tomorrow.
Have a great weekend my friend. let me know if you think of anything cool...or run into any more problems I have yet to discover.

Ross
 
"When you take a picture with a phone and some cameras it imbeds an orientation flag in the file. To remove it import it into paint and save over the original. Voila correctly orientated pictures !!"
Jamie M gave me this helpful tip, not too long ago. I had the same issue.....
:$
 
"When you take a picture with a phone and some cameras it imbeds an orientation flag in the file. To remove it import it into paint and save over the original. Voila correctly orientated pictures !!"
Jamie M gave me this helpful tip, not too long ago. I had the same issue.....
:$
not sure I understand all that, but I'll give it a whirl...thanks Bud :thumbsup
 
Nope. I did one so far, by hand on a piece of sandpaper, accidentally sanded a lot of the fingernail off my index finger! By the time I got the 3/8" dome down to 1/4" diameter by sanding from the back (and a little around the sides) it was flat on the back, so I could have just as easily started with acrylic spheres (more to grind off, but cheaper).

One annoying thing is that all these domes have a tiny dimple in the center, possibly an ejection pin mark.
Hey, I've been meaning to ask you, you do know the Shapeways stuff usually comes with a light waxy residue from the process, right? it needs to be gently washed with all-purpose cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a soft tooth. I did that the first time I used their stuff. paint wouldn't dry!

just making sure you know :thumbsup
 
Hey, I've been meaning to ask you, you do know the Shapeways stuff usually comes with a light waxy residue from the process, right? it needs to be gently washed with all-purpose cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a soft tooth. I did that the first time I used their stuff. paint wouldn't dry!

just making sure you know :thumbsup

I always assume there's some kind of parting agent or similar on anything plastic so I give it a (careful) wash.
 
Re: My 31" "20,000 Leagues Under The Sea" Nautilus Build

couple of pics that aren't upside down 20k naut 1.JPG20k naut 2.JPG

- - - Updated - - -

couple of pics that aren't upside down 20k naut 1.JPG20k naut 2.JPG
 
Another round of updates. First, I put the wheelhouse on, to do a lighting test with the green LED in the roof. I noticed (and you can see it in this photo) that I had somehow knocked the handles off of the top of the dive levers. I'll have to scratch-build some tiny replacements. Grrr....


46.jpg



I decided on the painting technique I'm going to use. After priming the sub, I'll paint a base coat of this Tamiya metallic gray acrylic. On top of that I'll uses washes and possibly weathering powders, to bring out the detail and give it the rusty finish we expect. here you can see the propeller primed and painted with the metallic gray. I think I'm going to switch gears and use black primer instead of the light gray I'm using, it'll make the metallic gray cover more easily.


47.jpg



I replaced the tiny, fragile plastic pivot pins in the rudder with brass rod, and embedded a socket for the pins, made of brass tubing, in the upper and lower tail fins. Here you can also see the propeller and its mount being test-fit in place.


48.jpg



I finished repairing the defect on the side of the lower fin - just need to re-apply the rivet detail. Here you can see the light gray primer - it would be annoying to try to cover it without too many coats of the metallic gray.


49.jpg



Lastly, I contacted Masterpiece Models, and they're going to replace some of the small parts like the hand wheels, hoping I'll get some usable ones. They also pointed out that the arch actually does fit (barely) if you shift it forward - but that does leave a gap under the wheelhouse end of it that I will need to fill. That won't be a huge project to accomplish.


50.jpg
 
Re: My 31" "20,000 Leagues Under The Sea" Nautilus Build

Another round of updates. First, I put the wheelhouse on, to do a lighting test with the green LED in the roof. I noticed (and you can see it in this photo) that I had somehow knocked the handles off of the top of the dive levers. I'll have to scratch-build some tiny replacements. Grrr....


http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/46.jpg

Looking awesome dude! I'm trailing right behind you. I did spend some time yesterday building a room for under the rear hatch and installing those flicker LED's. I put a couple of greeblie parts in there so it would like like things in the outer engine room, looks pretty good I guess. I don't have pics as yet. I did have some trouble with the wheel house lighting wires. Had to drill a few sets of holes and trench the bottom surface for the wheel house to run them rearward. because of the chart room I built, the wires couldn't go straight down, duh! Going to take the same approach with the propeller. I also thought of motorizing it, but I think I'd be a pain to find one that turned slow, you know. just going to make able to spin free. Also going to pre-mask the wheel house bubble windows while I can still get a finger behind to hold them, as well as the eyes on the lights but they're not going anywhere.

Are you painting separately, or all together? I considered both ways...definitely going to do the hull halves separate since you can't see the mating surfaces once assembled.
I'm going to try the Bob Martin weathering approach with the oxidizer...just have to be surgical if I do the top hull with the wheel house off. Still mulling that one. The other factor of doing the hulls separately is the salon window frames...I reckon I can get them to match later cause you know they won't if done separately.
Not looking forward to sizing the other small salon window lights though :(.........what a drag


I decided on the painting technique I'm going to use. After priming the sub, I'll paint a base coat of this Tamiya metallic gray acrylic. On top of that I'll uses washes and possibly weathering powders, to bring out the detail and give it the rusty finish we expect. here you can see the propeller primed and painted with the metallic gray. I think I'm going to switch gears and use black primer instead of the light gray I'm using, it'll make the metallic gray cover more easily.


http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/47.jpg


I replaced the tiny, fragile plastic pivot pins in the rudder with brass rod, and embedded a socket for the pins, made of brass tubing, in the upper and lower tail fins. Here you can also see the propeller and its mount being test-fit in place.


http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/48.jpg


I finished repairing the defect on the side of the lower fin - just need to re-apply the rivet detail. Here you can see the light gray primer - it would be annoying to try to cover it without too many coats of the metallic gray.


http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/49.jpg


Lastly, I contacted Masterpiece Models, and they're going to replace some of the small parts like the hand wheels, hoping I'll get some usable ones. They also pointed out that the arch actually does fit (barely) if you shift it forward - but that does leave a gap under the wheelhouse end of it that I will need to fill. That won't be a huge project to accomplish.


http://stevedockery.com/nautilus/50.jpg
...............

- - - Updated - - -

krud...my reply is in the middle of you post!:facepalm
 
naut1.JPGnaut2.JPGnaut3.JPGnaut4.JPGnaut5.JPGyou can't see it in the still obviously, but the blue and red flickering LED's below the rear hatch look pretty cool. I added another one to the floor of the chart room. Since it would be difficult to add a 3rd LED up in the wheel house, ambient light from below will have to get it done. Fiber optic would have given me something, but I've already glued the side walling in the wheel house.
 
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