Well, if anyone reading this thread is interested I just posted my rare correct one for sale in the junkyard (I'm really only interested in building pistols).
Last edited by a moderator:
Brian's Blade Runner Builds
- Thread starter Candykiller
- Start date
-
- Tags
- blade runner
Well, if anyone reading this thread is interested I just posted my rare correct one for sale in the junkyard (I'm really only interested in building pistols).
Donovani
Active Member
@Candykiller / anyone - any ideas on how to remove the grips on the water blaster without damaging the body?
Update : looks like it's best to just tape it up before painting based on other members advice.
Update : looks like it's best to just tape it up before painting based on other members advice.
Last edited:
It would be hard to take it apart without causing damage. I made a point of keeping the grips intact and using masking tape to do my mods.
Donovani
Active Member
Yeah, seems to be the way to go - thanks for replying!
A bit of Sunday progress on my 2049 radio-phone. I completed the symbols, painted the serial number, and did a little weathering test on the top corner. I also built the winged cap that’s shown on the original prop but wasn’t included on my model.
Last edited by a moderator:
Incept Date
Well-Known Member
Which Winsor & Newton black did you use, Ivory Black or Lamp Black ?
Again, great work. I'm excited to do this on mine.
Last edited by a moderator:
I used Lamp Black.
The5thElement
Active Member
Your paint work on the water pistol is amazing.
When wiping off the oil paint you're revealing some of the grey primer yes? To provide a lighter base colour (not black) for the graphite?
Also did you dull down the grips at all? They seem less shiny/glossy than when new.
When wiping off the oil paint you're revealing some of the grey primer yes? To provide a lighter base colour (not black) for the graphite?
Also did you dull down the grips at all? They seem less shiny/glossy than when new.
Yes, that's right, the grey primer is basically providing the base colour. I dulled down the grips with a piece of Magic Eraser sponge. You can then polish it up again with a soft cloth, and I find that it helps to take away the cheap plastic shine.
wayouteast
Sr Member
That does look SO much better!
Last edited by a moderator:
Messing things up a bit. Next step is to add weathering to the lower black section.
I’ve also added the Kanal plate, and decided to make a raised channel indicator rather than drilling a hole into the piece. It’s not quite the same as the original prop but I think it looks the part, and I’m not too concerned about total accuracy.
I’ve also added the Kanal plate, and decided to make a raised channel indicator rather than drilling a hole into the piece. It’s not quite the same as the original prop but I think it looks the part, and I’m not too concerned about total accuracy.
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited by a moderator:
Mind if I ask what brand of resin you used? I want to make sure I don't accidentally melt my gun using a resin that heats up too much while curing...
Last edited by a moderator:
I used a product called Amazing Clear Cast. It did get very hot at one point while curing and I was concerned about the gun melting, but I got away with it. If I was to do it again, I think I would fill it up in two or three layers to be on the safe side.
Last edited by a moderator:
Here’s a quick demo of the technique I used for the metallic finish on my water blaster, if anyone is interested.
1 - Original piece. (just a couple of random plastic parts I had lying around)
2 - Apply two coats of grey primer, allowing to dry between coats. (I use Hycote Grey Plastic Primer)
3 - Paint the whole piece with fast drying oil paint straight out of the tube, without using thinners. (I use Lamp Black Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying Oil Colour)
4 - Immediately wipe off as much of the oil paint as possible with a soft cloth. This stains the surface of the primer while creating darker tones in the recessed areas that you can’t reach.
5 - Scrape some powder off the lead of a regular drawing pencil and rub the resulting graphite powder into the surface with a soft cloth. (you can buy graphite powder if you wish)
6 - If you want a lighter, slightly worn metal effect, an optional final step is to dry-brush a little silver Rub ’n Buff over the piece, slowly building it up until you achieve the desired look.
1 - Original piece. (just a couple of random plastic parts I had lying around)
2 - Apply two coats of grey primer, allowing to dry between coats. (I use Hycote Grey Plastic Primer)
3 - Paint the whole piece with fast drying oil paint straight out of the tube, without using thinners. (I use Lamp Black Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying Oil Colour)
4 - Immediately wipe off as much of the oil paint as possible with a soft cloth. This stains the surface of the primer while creating darker tones in the recessed areas that you can’t reach.
5 - Scrape some powder off the lead of a regular drawing pencil and rub the resulting graphite powder into the surface with a soft cloth. (you can buy graphite powder if you wish)
6 - If you want a lighter, slightly worn metal effect, an optional final step is to dry-brush a little silver Rub ’n Buff over the piece, slowly building it up until you achieve the desired look.
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, I masked the metallic areas and grip and then applied the black spray paint.
I can't find the extreme heat spray paint you mentioned. Should I go with flat black or semi gloss black spray paint?
