Brian's Blade Runner Builds

i got inspired to build my own PRC6 prop and i got my hand on a high red 3d model of the piece. i want to 3d print my model. can you send me some measurements of the real piece?
ill send some screenshots of the model in a couple hours!
 
can you send me some measurements of the real piece?

No problem. just let me know which measurements you require and I'll get them off to you. (it will have to wait until tomorrow though)

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Cheers guys. For those asking, here is my method for creating the gun metal paint job. After masking the grips, I gave it two coats of mid grey primer. I used Hycote Grey Plastic Primer, but I’m not sure about the availability of this spray paint outside of the UK.

primer.jpg


Next I painted the whole thing with black fast drying oil paint (I used Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying Oil Colour) then wiped as much of it off as possible with a soft cloth. You will begin to see the gun metal effect at this point, and it also creates nice dark tones in the recessed areas that you can’t reach.


The final step is to rub graphite powder into the surface with a soft cloth. This is where it really takes on a gun metal effect. You can buy graphite powder, but I prefer to go for the home-made method of scraping the lead off a pencil with a scalpel. You can vary the intensity of the shiny metallic effect on selected areas by adding more graphite powder and buffing it more thoroughly. (on edges, screws etc)


And that’s about it.


For the darker areas, I used Hycote Extreme Heat Black spray paint, and simply polished the surface with a soft cloth to achieve the desired level of shine.


If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

primer.jpg
 
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No problem. just let me know which measurements you require and I'll get them off to you. (it will have to wait until tomorrow though)

thank you ! i just need to know the length of the piece, i can scale it down to hat size and the rest will follow up. thank you for your help!
Schermafbeelding 2017-08-09 om 23.37.56.png
 
thank you ! i just need to know the length of the piece, i can scale it down to hat size and the rest will follow up. thank you for your help!

Ok, the rim around the unit that joins the two sections of the casing is 13.5" (34.4cm) end to end. I hope this helps.
 
No problem. just let me know which measurements you require and I'll get them off to you. (it will have to wait until tomorrow though)

- - - Updated - - -

Cheers guys. For those asking, here is my method for creating the gun metal paint job. After masking the grips, I gave it two coats of mid grey primer. I used Hycote Grey Plastic Primer, but I’m not sure about the availability of this spray paint outside of the UK.

View attachment 750491


Next I painted the whole thing with black fast drying oil paint (I used Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying Oil Colour) then wiped as much of it off as possible with a soft cloth. You will begin to see the gun metal effect at this point, and it also creates nice dark tones in the recessed areas that you can’t reach.


The final step is to rub graphite powder into the surface with a soft cloth. This is where it really takes on a gun metal effect. You can buy graphite powder, but I prefer to go for the home-made method of scraping the lead off a pencil with a scalpel. You can vary the intensity of the shiny metallic effect on selected areas by adding more graphite powder and buffing it more thoroughly. (on edges, screws etc)


And that’s about it.


For the darker areas, I used Hycote Extreme Heat Black spray paint, and simply polished the surface with a soft cloth to achieve the desired level of shine.


If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.


Great stuff Candykiller. You have certainly given me a few ideas for when I get round to doing mine. I am still wondering if there is a way to add working lights :confused
 
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Great stuff Candykiller. You have certainly given me a few ideas for when I get round to doing mine. I am still wondering if there is a way to add working lights :confused

There are definitely other people working on adding LEDs to their build, but I'm not bothered about having functioning lights on this one. I just wanted to keep mine simple as a mini project between the other stuff I'm working on.
 
I think I will give it a go then. Can I ask if the graphite powder technique comes off if handled after application?
 
Can I ask if the graphite powder technique comes off if handled after application?

I find it quite sturdy because you buff it right into the surface. Then again, I don't tend to handle my pieces very much after they're done. It certainly doesn't rub off easily.
 
Ah, right - that one also has the rivets on the clasps. There must be slightly different models then. I agree that over-painting would work fine with yours, but my one was thick with layers of rough flaking paint, so I kinda had to strip it.
The PRC6/6 was a modified version of the PRC6 made under licence by Lorenz in the late 50s/early 60s for the Bundeswehr (and used by some other European countries like Italy, The Netherlands and Belgium).
prc6nr5.jpg

It was tube-based like the early US PRC6 models, but had 6 channels - it held 6 sets of crystals (the standard PRC6 only held one set) that could be switched between with a butterfly knob at the top of the earpiece (where yours has the blanking plug), hence the window to see what channel it was set to and the 'Kanal' label (the knob, window and label is missing from the standard PRC6 version). Lorenz also appear to have changed the design of the clasps on the case with the 2 visible rivets.
More info can be found here:https://home.kpn.nl/angrynine/surplu10.htm
Here's a video which gives a good all-round view of what it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vcwwJIfqg0

The PRC6/6 was not a NATO standard item though, so is not as easy to find as the US standard PRC6. It was replaced by solid-state models made by Telemit in Germany like the PRC6T single channel (like the one HIswirt has) and PRC6-180 180 channel versions.
There are a couple of other instruction labels on the front that may have been left on the original prop:
IMG_3276.jpg
 
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I didn’t plan to do much in the way of rebuilding on my water blaster, but the blank area at the front of the barrel was bugging me, so I’ve built a new front piece and I’m much happier with it now.

final06.jpgfinal07.jpg

final06.jpg


final07.jpg
 
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From this kind of this? Do you know what the brand/size is please :)

No, it was just a simple circular ring shape. Sorry, I don't know which brand of tape I used. It was just found in my drawer full of old junk that I put aside for jobs like this. The central piece was a part from an old army tank model kit.
 
No, it was just a simple circular ring shape. Sorry, I don't know which brand of tape I used. It was just found in my drawer full of old junk that I put aside for jobs like this. The central piece was a part from an old army tank model kit.

btw did you simply drill out the barrel?
 

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