Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

F07CE39B-21AB-4EF2-8010-9B5BAC8FFE70.jpeg After about an hour in vinegar with salt. Not as dark as I wanted but better than straight black. Prepping for that steel barrel replacement.
 
Very nice. I assume you are making a "ghost" ? Is the barrel stainless? I have a 2049 tomen kit and planning this as well.

Cheers.

thanks!
actually I haven't decided yet (and the barrel is just steel), I'm going nice and slowly on that build and really enjoying it. I like every version of that gun and am having trouble to pick one, I don't think I'll get another blaster anytime soon so I want this one to be perfect. I polished everything because it is needed for both the blued version and the ghost version. In the end I think I'll go for a realistic version but without rust or anything, just nicely used. I'm working on every part at the best of my abilities to make them look like the real version and am trying to remove all of the Tomenosuke tells. I replaced the barrel and cylinder with metal ones, the weaver knob by a real one. I'm going to rework the ammo clip to remove the tell mold lines, adding a hole in the revolver grip as one is missing and trying to modify a bit the holes that are already there to make them more accurate.
The things that I don't know how to improve yet are the attachment of the trigger guard, the color of the grips that seem to be a too bright orange and the plastic revolver frame that despite my polishing is still not completely to my liking.
I'm really taking my time, It's been months that I started and in the meantime, I'm enjoying the blaster as a semi built ghost that will slowly transform to a realistic version with a light bluing if I can manage. I don't want the receiver to be black.
This build is really the best build I worked on for now and I don't want it to stop...
cheers :)
 
ok I need some assembly expert input. I'm making progress rebuilding my blaster. The spring and hammer assembly works, with the trigger, the chamber however isn't turning. When the trigger is pulled the latches work in the chamber area but the latch at the back of the chamber that seems to be the one suposed to actually turn the chamber seems to be lacking force if that makes sense. Like its missing a spring...(Ill post a video when I get in tonight) but in case anyone has an idea why this is happening....posting now.
 
Make sure that the spring that holds tension on the long rod thingy attached to the rear trigger is engaged. There should be a little notch that it attaches to. I had the same problem when I had to dissasemble mine. It was that little torque spring that actually allows the thing to rotate the cylinder.
 
Make sure that the spring that holds tension on the long rod thingy attached to the rear trigger is engaged. There should be a little notch that it attaches to. I had the same problem when I had to dissasemble mine. It was that little torque spring that actually allows the thing to rotate the cylinder.

DO you mean the long spring located in the grip frame? It notches into the bottom of the hammer? That's installed correctly I believe. I didn't dissemble the actual triggers so I'm lost as to whats involved in their assembly but the hammer is active and the triggers are doing something for sure...maybe the hammer is in the wrong position? frustrating
 
I don't see the parts that would rotate the cylinder In the chart. and EL your talking about the main hammer spring. that wouldn't rotate the cylinder. the part should look something like this I believe...

22.jpg
 
Yep, it goes in with the trigger. The spring that goes on before that part creates tension on the part which allows it to rotate the cylinder. You will have to push the pins that hold both triggers out and remove the assembly. Be careful, because there are two springs that might fly out. Reassembling requires you to hold the parts exactly as they are meant to fit together as you guide them into the trigger slot. This is tricky to do without everything flying apart.
 
Yep, it goes in with the trigger. The spring that goes on before that part creates tension on the part which allows it to rotate the cylinder. You will have to push the pins that hold both triggers out and remove the assembly. Be careful, because there are two springs that might fly out. Reassembling requires you to hold the parts exactly as they are meant to fit together as you guide them into the trigger slot. This is tricky to do without everything flying apart.

Meant to say thankyou for this, been dwelling on it for a day or so..
 
Hi Guys,

I need some advice on modding my Tomen.

I have ordered a steel cylinder from Don Parker (over at Propsummit) and a steel barrel (from Ted in this forum).
Both parts are of regular steel (not stainless) and should hopefully arrive witin the next two weeks.

My plan is to blue the cylinder and the barrel to more or less match the dark color of the rest the Tomen. I don't intend to blue the receiver or any other part but just leave them as they are. With my blaster I wouldl ike to gor for a fairly dark metallic look of the replacement parts.

I also ordered the Birchwood Casey Berma Blu Liquid Gun Blu Kit from eBay US (I couldn't find any available in Germany/Europe).

I also read the bluing guide in this thread (though I thing this mostly applies to the Zamac parts) and watched some youtube videos on gun steel bluing by BC.


From what I understand my plan of action would be:

After cleaning the steel parts with a degreaser or aceton one is supposed to add the bluing solution with a brush or swap in long broad strokes and leave it on for about 1 minute
But since I want to blu a cylinder and barrel I was wondering if would make sense to put the bluing solution in a small bowl and put the cylinder and barrel in that for about one minute instead.
Wouldn't that result in a much more even finish? Also this way the bluing fluid would reach every interior cavity of the parts.
Has anyone here tried such a "bluing bath" before?
After the bluing bath I clean the parts with destilled water I wipe of any remaining bluing solution with some clean paper towels ?

After the cleaning I plan to put the parts in an oil bath for at least one day. I ordered some Ballistol gun oil for that purpose from Amazon.de.

After the oil bath do I just rub of the oil with some fabric or do I also use destilled water again to clean the parts from the oil?

Is this correct so far or am I missing anything?

One more afterthought:

I would hate if my blaster would start to rust. So would an alumium / stainless barrel have been the smarter choice (instead of regular steel)?
 
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Finally finished my Tomen 2049. Stripped the powder finish, replaced the barrel with steel, sanded and sanded and then carefully sanded. Gun bluing applied, (which wasn't as irksome as I thought it would be). Rebuilt, (more irksome than I thought it would be) and finally complete. Gun bluing a little dark but I dig it :) *and polished the grips with brasso!*
Just wanted to acknowledge all the help I've received, and thanks to Mr Savage on his recommendations :)

26113762_10154902923471695_5322887339629741692_n.jpg26195688_10154902923371695_6687707019164707247_n.jpg26000951_10154902923291695_9163869866824315834_n.jpg26165977_10154902923221695_354944638468182629_n.jpg
 
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Finally finished my Tomen 2049. Stripped the powder finish, replaced the barrel with steel, sanded and sanded and then carefully sanded. Gun bluing applied, (which wasn't as irksome as I thought it would be). Rebuilt, (more irksome than I thought it would be) and finally complete. Gun bluing a little dark but I dig it :)
Just wanted to acknowledge all the help I've received, and thanks to Mr Savage on his recommendations :)

View attachment 783304View attachment 783305View attachment 783306View attachment 783307

Looks fantastic!
 
Finally finished my Tomen 2049. Stripped the powder finish, replaced the barrel with steel, sanded and sanded and then carefully sanded. Gun bluing applied, (which wasn't as irksome as I thought it would be). Rebuilt, (more irksome than I thought it would be) and finally complete. Gun bluing a little dark but I dig it :) *and polished the grips with brasso!*
Just wanted to acknowledge all the help I've received, and thanks to Mr Savage on his recommendations :)

View attachment 783304View attachment 783305View attachment 783306View attachment 783307


Did you get the trigger problem fixed (the cylinder not rotating when you pull the trigger)?
I have the same problem.
 
Hi,

I am planning some additional mods to my (built) Tomen blaster.
I bought an EE 8 military phone (from the Vietnam Era) to get the correct binding post for my Tomen.



bladerunner_700_14b.jpg


But I was wondering how to remove the plastic binding post from the Tomen?
It seems to be glued or wielded in.

Do I have to cut it out and if so how?

Also how do I fix the new vintage binding post. Epoxy? Super glue?




Thanks.


bladerunner_700_14b.jpg
 
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Hey, the binding post on the tomen is not plastic, it's zamac as well. it's forced in. Careful because the piece in which it's forced in has a weak point because of the hole for the cylinder swing arm.
to attach the new one, I think it's threaded, so you could thread the hole or just glue it in place I guess.
 
Hey, the binding post on the tomen is not plastic, it's zamac as well. it's forced in. Careful because the piece in which it's forced in has a weak point because of the hole for the cylinder swing arm.
to attach the new one, I think it's threaded, so you could thread the hole or just glue it in place I guess.

So what would be the best way to get rid of the Tomen's binding post?
It seems to be so tight in that I cannot unscrew or pull it out it by hand.

Maybe I can cut it off with a metal saw / dremel ?
Has anyone here tried this?
 
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