Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

eethan

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey everyone.
I was thinking it could be a good idea to start a thread for the assembly kit run, if anyone has questions that more experienced guys can help with, since we all are receiving our blasters at the same time and are all going to start building them.
I hope this is ok and that you are not all going to say that everything is already out there.

I personally have a few questions for mine regarding mostly the painting and metal treatment.

- what you experimented guys recommend for bluing the metal parts? Is Aluminum black from Birchwood Casey the go to and does it work on all the different alloys in the kit or are there other brands or products?
I'm having troubles finding aluminium black locally. I contacted a big drugstore in Brussels and they said they had different Hematite products for different kinds of metals but I'm scared to use something I haven't heard of. Don't know if the super blue from Birchwood Casey is just actual Hematite and I'll get the same result with the one from the drugstore. I'm really looking for help on that since I really don't want to mess this up. It's hard to test as the metal is a particular alloy and it will be hard to test on a scrap part and I have none and I guess we kind of have to test directly on the actual parts.

- primer and paint for the black parts, any brands in particular or advices for that part? I was reading good comments on tamiya but wasn't able to get some here and bought a "sparVar" primer and glossy black spray but I'm scared to use that as it seems a bit cheap.

- When adding a replacement steel barrel for the tomenosuke, can we use the same product as the other alloy parts or do we have to use actual steel gun blue?

- What do you recommend to polish the grips? I have a guitar varnish polish compound that I'm planning to use but don't know if there is anything in particular that is more recommended.

- Do you sand/adjust the grips and metal frame shapes for them to match? they don't totally match as they come and it seems that the actual movie prop has them matching perfectly.

Any other tips that you guys think of?
I must say that the kit is incredible and that I wanted to build it right away, cleared my table and started. I was saying to my girlfriend, "this is the best day of my life!" It's just super fun to assemble! I had to stop because I guess all the parts should be painted and treated before assembly to avoid assembling, un-assembling and assembling again...

I really hope that thread is ok, I'm really looking forward for your tips, any help will be very much appreciated. :)
thanks a lot :thumbsup
 
BASH'S LIST OF PKD BLASTER POSTS

Ok so I thought i’d try and consolidate all these links into one main post to make it easy for people (myself included) to find everything easily. I’ll keep adding to this as I do more forum digging.

I want to start by saying that without this amazing forum and the people on it that make up this community, we’d all be very much in the dark, so thanks to all who have contributed to the threads mentioned below. I’ll include the usernames for each thread too. I'm not intending to upset anyone here, merely gather info for the benefit of the community.

Please always do your own research into different methods of building as no one here can be held accountable for the advice given.

Forum users blaster builds


TESTED Content

I’m sure you guys all know the amazing site which is Tested. I strongly recommend becoming a Premium Member there (as well as here on the rpf!) as I have.

Simply awesome content and especially regarding Adam’s obsession with the Blaster. Most of these videos are free, but the 4 part build is Premium only and having just watched them all I can tell you they’re worth it for people wanting to build their first Blaster. Good general info, the videos can be used as reference for all the parts, plus its a fun watch. Go sign up for Tested premium!!






Premium content:






Receiver / Metal finishing
The following is a thorough bluing guide courtesy of Buch:

This work requires safety equipment: Safety glasses (You DO NOT want bluing fluid in the eyes!), nitrile gloves and respirator mask. And should be done in a heavily ventilated room or outside.

1. Sand from grit 600 to 1200 (Be careful not to do too much low grit sanding or you will remove the stampings!!!)
2. Finished sanding process with Liberon steel wool grade 0000. Put some effort into this phase, the smoother the surface, the better the bluing fluid adheres.
3. One thing I learned at this stage: Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the receiver from this point on with anything else than clean paper towels!! Not even with the rubber gloves. Even the tiniest stains will effect the final result.
4. Clean the receiver with acetone.
5. Rub receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
6. Apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (concentrated liquid) with cotton pads evenly all over the receiver.
7. Rub receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
8. If you get smudges (you will!), rub the smudges with cotton pads (with bluing fluid on), then directly thereafter rub off the bluing fluid with paper towel. Repeat this stage til you get an even finish.
9. Seal the parts in acid free oil (I had them soaking for 3 days).
10. Polish with wax, for instance Renaissance Wax.
11. Buff with polishing cloth (for jewelry).

And a picture of the result...

attachment.jpg


Grips

Brasso or automotive polish can be used to buff the grips

Assembly

Some great info here which helps when assembling the trigger mechanism. Hardest part of the build in my opinion.

Information by Nwerke (https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=174014&page=11)

The screws are grouped by button head sockets, flat head sockets, countersunk phillips and slot head machine screws. Follow the instructions which call these out by type, M number (mm diameter) and length. If metric isn't your thing have a metric ruler to hand. According to the instructions there are four M2 L4 phillips screws but I had two M2 L4s and two that were shorter; I used those to fix the Ejector Rod Block into the frame, part 35; they seem correct for that. (Note it is fitted from the INSIDE of the two flanges on the rear of the frame, but really there's only one way to do it).


On the triggers:
You should have seven pins with your kit. The three large pins are used for the two triggers and the lower attachment of the grip frame to the frame. They are all the same size. The others are all small, and different - they are for the ejector, the hammer, the thumb catch and the "hand" of the rear trigger.

First insert the brass tubes AKA part 61, 'trigger collar' into each trigger. These tubes each retain a spring of the same design but a different weight (and if someone can tell me which spring is which I'd be really grateful. Currently I have the heavier spring in the rear trigger but I'm not sure that's correct at all.)

For the front trigger, fit the Cylinder Stop part along with the spring by inserting the collar. For the rear trigger just fit the spring - you will need at least three hands for this. Then attach the Hand, part 39, to the rear trigger. Note the small pin for this has to be pressed into the Hand - you'll need grips for this and it works best done from the inside rather than the outside as suggested by the instructions. The Hand also retains a spring, no mistaking that one but get it the right way around. Now you can fit both triggers into the receiver using the pins. These need force to be pressed into place.

For the thumb switch the smallest pin (really tiny, has two diameters) and spring fit inside the small hole that faces the main screw which holds it onto the body of the gun and are retained by that screw. The whole deal attaches via, on the inside of the frame, a small brass collar which inserts into the ABS and on the outside the large washer. Then the screw and the smaller oval washer finish the job. Fit the pin and spring first. They're shown over on the right on diagram 4 - but it's really not clear where the hell they go till you look at the exploded view. Disclaimer; I haven't got all this right yet and it doesn't work properly.
lol.gif
 
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Tested have actually done a 4 part Tomenosuke blaster build which looks to be fairly step by step. which is fookin cool. Only available for premium members though, but well worth the money imo. I haven't watched any yet as its now nearly 2am here but thats my viewing for tomorrow morning.

Linky:
http://www.tested.com/premium/589868-lets-build-blade-runner-blaster-part-1/

(go buy premium membership guys, the Tested boys rock)

J
 
I prefer Super Blue to Al Black, personally. Especially for zamak parts like the Tomen castings are. It'll work on the barrel too :thumbsup You could do a decent job with gloss spray paint if you've got the touch, but airbrush is always best (I don't have one, so I'm a rattle-can guy too :cry). I think most people don't sand their grips to fit the grip fram, since Tomen's tolerances are usually pretty good right out of the kit, but maybe that's changed. If you do, you'll have to buff them back up again. Hardest part of the build is getting the cylinder release in there. Once you've got that it's all gravy. Get some punches and a bench block if you plan on disassembling it often. It makes getting the triggers out much easier!
 
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hey guys, thanks a lot for the first tips, much appreciated.
I'll check the links as well and try to find more intel but people do not always mention what products they used and if they liked them or not which is why I started that thread. It's already super interesting to know that super blue works on the tomenosuke soft alloys and that it might even be better than aluminium black, I wasn't suspecting that. :thumbsup

my grips are not matching as well as the hero props, the back of the frame is larger than the grips and the grips are larger than the front part of the frame. I think sanding the metal a little bit on the back is an easy fix but I wanted to know if people did it on the grips themselves too.

thanks a lot guys, don't hesitate if you have other tips :)
 
Well this is the thread I need to read :)

I just started painting, polishing etc the parts of the kit - as I'm pretty much a novice with this sort of thing, please don't anyone take what I do as the right way to do anything - it almost certainly isn't, as i'm sure to find out :)

I polished the metal parts first with P600 3M wet and dry paper, then with a Dremel and polishing compound. Seemed to go ok. I'm not after a super-mirror finish. For the black painted parts I actually used some gloss black engine paint I had lying around and thinned it to go through an airbrush. Again, seemed to go ok. I've already weathered some of those parts too. The grips I polished again with the Dremel and I used a car polish (Autoglym super-resin polish) which did a nice job (one done and one not in the pic below).

Please feel free to rant at me for sullying such an expensive kit with my terrible techniques :) Any advice welcome. I've got the Birchwood Casey bluing kit which I'll be cracking open tomorrow :)

19956962_10155500784079913_4839607399183249485_o.jpg19983546_10155500783839913_4742730278405928425_o.jpg19955892_10155500784434913_5369164260918840157_o.jpg
 
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Thanks for your post Neil. Looks like stuff is taking shape already! I doubt very much there is only one way to achieve good results, but I guess thats the point of this thread! I'm assuming the grips in pic three are a before and after??
 
Bash said:
Thanks for your post Neil. Looks like stuff is taking shape already! I doubt very much there is only one way to achieve good results, but I guess thats the point of this thread! I'm assuming the grips in pic three are a before and after??
Click to expand...

Yes exactly. I've gone over most things in the photos another time so they look a little better now.

Also I forgot to say I went back and put some polish over the diamond pattern on the grips and left it in the gaps to dry, to get that white residue look.
 
eethan said:
Hey everyone.
I was thinking it could be a good idea to start a thread for the assembly kit run, if anyone has questions that more experienced guys can help with, since we all are receiving our blasters at the same time and are all going to start building them.
I hope this is ok and that you are not all going to say that everything is already out there.

I must say that the kit is incredible and that I wanted to build it right away, cleared my table and started. I was saying to my girlfriend, "this is the best day of my life!" It's just super fun to assemble! I had to stop because I guess all the parts should be painted and treated before assembly to avoid assembling, un-assembling and assembling again...
I really hope that thread is ok, I'm really looking forward for your tips, any help will be very much appreciated. :)
thanks a lot :thumbsup
Click to expand...

Great idea for the thread, I just got a kit myself and would appreciate having all the info in one easy to find spot, instead of having to spend hours searching the forum like some members here would have you do. (Like the ones you mention, that love to tell you its already out there, just search for it or you're are lazy, as if we dont all have many things to do in our lives and dont have forever to search the internet. Haha.)

So I just wanted to tell you I appreciate it and look forward to reading whatever info anyone feels generous enough to share!
 
Nice job NeilDavies, thanks for the intel on the techniques you used. you seem to have a nice result already, it's motivating for the others to start.

Blade Walker, I appreciate the fact that you are graceful for that thread and I really hope that it can be useful, so please people and please Blade Walker yourself, do not start a debate and do not criticize people. I know we all have many things to do in our lives, but the people that have the advices to give also have a lot of stuff to do. We all need to search and it's always a thin line between asking too much and searching enough to deserve the help of others. Please please please, no debate here, I would really love to keep that thread constructive. much appreciated :)

keep the tips coming guys, it's really great :thumbsup
 
eethan said:
Blade Walker, I appreciate the fact that you are graceful for that thread and I really hope that it can be useful, so please people and please Blade Walker yourself, do not start a debate and do not criticize people. I know we all have many things to do in our lives, but the people that have the advices to give also have a lot of stuff to do. We all need to search and it's always a thin line between asking too much and searching enough to deserve the help of others. Please please please, no debate here, I would really love to keep that thread constructive. much appreciated :) Keep the tips coming guys, it's really great :thumbsup
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, I agree with your feelings, and Im totally not trying to start any debate just trying to represent the other side of the issue which doesnt seem to get much sympathy on here. I just wanted to let you know some of us out here appreciate your idea and dont judge you for not wanting to have to go find it all your self, but yes you are right keep it positive!
Of course I look forward to and appreciate any help people offer.
 
I bought a blaster last year but customs was a major problem and I had to send it back to HCG. I think that converting my Tomen to a Kit and only than sending it to Brazil would work, but that it too much of a risk. I'll probably sell it now... :cry

- - - Updated - - -

dlambert said:
I'll probably sell it now... :cry
Click to expand...

Sell without never seen it.
 
This is my full guide to the bluing process...

Read the entire guide before starting!

This work requires safety equipment: Safety glasses (You DO NOT want bluing fluid in the eyes!), nitrile gloves and respirator mask. And should be done in a heavily ventilated room or outside. Here are the steps I took...

You'll need:

- Sanding paper grit: (400), 600, 800, 1000, (1200)
- Steel wool 0000 (super fine)
- Plenty of cotton pads and clean paper towel
- Birchwood Casey cold bluing fluid (Perma Blue or Super Blue)
- Acetone
- Patience (a lot!)

1. Sanding, sanding, sanding, going from grid (400), 600, 800, 1000, (1200) (Be careful not to do too much low grit sanding or you will remove the stampings!!!)
2. Finished sanding process with Liberon steel wool grade 0000. Put some effort into this phase, the smoother the surface, the better the bluing fluid adheres.
3. One thing I learned at this stage: Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the receiver from this point on with anything else than clean paper towels!! Not even with the nitrile gloves. Even the tiniest stains will effect the final result.
4. Clean the receiver with acetone.
5. Rub receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
6. Apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (concentrated liquid) with cotton pads evenly and quickly all over the receiver (long strokes). Change cotton pad if you have more than one go.
7. Immediately thereafter rub the receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
8. If you get smudges (you will!), rub the smudges with cotton pads (with bluing fluid on), then immediately thereafter rub off the bluing fluid with a paper towel. Repeat this stage till you get an even finish. Change cotton pad by each go.
9. Seal the parts in acid free oil (I had them soaking for 3 days).
10. Polish with wax, for instance Renaissance Wax.
11. Buff with polishing cloth (for jewelry).

And a picture of the result...

19055317_10155346574549763_3958574788921017096_o.jpg

Oh, and one more thing... use Brasso to polish the grips :thumbsup

EDIT July 14:

When working on the Tomen receiver I recommend mounting it like so...

IMG_2019.JPG

Or holding it like so...

IMG_2020.JPG

19055317_10155346574549763_3958574788921017096_o.jpg


IMG_2019.JPG


IMG_2020.JPG
 
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Buch said:
Birchwood Perma Blue will give the same color on a Tomen receiver and on a steel replacement barrel.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Buch for the complete tutorial. very nice of you!

so, Perma blue or Super blue? what are the pros and cons?

Sorry, I'm asking more questions than giving answers but I guess this helps everyone, I'm searching and am not able to find a specific answer to something, Should the plastic ammo box painted in the same black as the black metal parts or is it usually left unpainted? I'm looking at a lot of pictures and I think most of them are unpainted but it seems to me that the Coyle blaster is painted there.

thanks a lot blaster gang :thumbsup
 
Perma Blue - because I love the color :love Don't know how Super Blue looks, havn't used it... Perma gave mine a really nice color to my eye at least...

Ammo box on the Tomen kit doesn't need to be painted, the castings are usually pretty damn clean... I left mine unpainted. On the Coyle blaster they are usually painted because the castings themselves tend to be a bit on the rough side.
 
thanks Buch! :)

here is a thread I just found on propsummit, it's a sidkit but it's really nicely built and it's very well documented:
http://www.propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=5067&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
nice job QuartZ!

2 pictures on Toku-san facebook where he is lightly grinding the grips frame, this helps for me:
https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=8b129b2c8b64e47b5a6eb80205d17f66&oe=59C664BB
https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=0361de54b468d79cd76fb3657aeafbbe&oe=59C40494

two links with Toku-san correcting small details in the kit before finishing it:
http://tenshu53.exblog.jp/21279670/
http://tenshu53.exblog.jp/21286126/#21286126_1
 
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