Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

Well, I didn't do it myself since I don't have an assembled blaster, but you at least need to remove completly the receiver and the amo box. But I'm afraid you might need to remove also the side covers and other small parts. :)
 
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I have plenty more to do, but I'm using Super Blue. I found that stopping the reaction is the important part, and using something wide to apply it.

Also, the side covers & handle will not blue with Super Blue, they are a totally different alloy it seems. I initially wanted to blue all of it (just because I like the way it looks, and I'm a picky long-time gun collector & the paint never made any sense to me aesthetically or if it were a real-world item) but abandoned that idea when I discovered those parts wouldn't blue. Mine is going to end up on a real Charter Arms Bulldog, & I was ok with taking a little license with it.

Also, anybody aproving accounts at propsummit? I tried to sign up a week or two ago & ...nothing
 
Bash said:
Two are around 30 mins, one is 40 and the last one is 50 mins.
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Wow, all about the Blaster build? Cool! That def sounds like you get your money's worth when you sign up.
Buch said:
Are you going to pay money to watch a video before even trying? It's really not that difficult! It comes with an instruction :wacko
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No, I wanted to watch the video even before I knew I was going to get the kit just because Im a fan of the Blaster, Adam and the Tested studio.

Its not that expensive to join for a month plus Id get access to lots of other cool vids. Its fun seeing them go through the process and now having a kit myself it might give me some extra tips that you cant get just from written directions. Im a visual person anyway and always prefer to see something than read about it.

Plus I just like watching or listening to build modeling or painting videos when Im working in the studio. Guess I'm weird that way.:lol
 
The building video on Tested doesn't give any bluing advice that I can remember. I wear cotton gloves over my latex gloves when using it to avoid any weird marks / smudges.
 
Blade Walker said:
No, I wanted to watch the video even before I knew I was going to get the kit just because Im a fan of the Blaster, Adam and the Tested studio. (...) Plus I just like watching or listening to build modeling or painting videos when Im working in the studio. Guess I'm weird that way.:lol
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Not at all. I love the Tested grew as well, and love to watch videos about stuff too. I guess my point, in this context at least, is just that in the it comes down to the practical aspect of things, I mean, you won't learn how to cold blue without doing it, and learning it like a craft :)
 
bitfi3nd said:
I have plenty more to do, but I'm using Super Blue. I found that stopping the reaction is the important part, and using something wide to apply it.
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That looks beautiful and I did think about using a larger applicator myself so I'll definitely do so now when I redo mine later. Thanks for the tip!
 
Yeah, I think I read the same threads you did before I started mine that said to use steel wool between applications. Obviously, not a good idea.
If you use something small to apply it, you'll see streaks in the metal. Use a wide paper towel or pad to apply it in long, fast, even strokes. I applied it (after removing & polishing it again) with a folded paper towel, & rinsed it under cold water basically as soon as I was done.

Where there were spots, I polished it with a microfiber cloth & Flitz & blued again if needed. I also sprayed it with Wd40 & rubbed/polished it with just a paper towel until no more discoloration came off on the paper towel before I washed it with dawn & blued again the same way. You will have hundreds of tiny pits from the bluing using the previous steel wool method, sand & polish it back up in strong light before you blue it again.

You'll be angry at how fast it works & how good it looks after going through that previous erroneous set of steps. Just make sure your surface is polished well before you start.
 
Success! Third full attempt is much much better, nowhere near perfect but absolutely fine for me. The only thing I can add to what's already been discussed is to do the bluing stage itself twice (I cleaned in between, may not be necessary) as the second application really helps to get rid of any patchiness. After doing that it was still a patchy and had some odd spots so I polished again very gently with the car polish I've been using and a microfibre cloth which just helps blend it all. Very gently mind. (I might even do a bit more as it's a tiny bit dark for my taste)

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Thanks for all the tips (that's what I joined for!) and I hope this helps others make their blaster stunning. :)

Now just have to do the same for the barrel when it arrives and put the darn thing together!

BTW - One other thing I've done is to the plastic frame, which I noticed wasn't going to match the metal especially where it's visible above the triggers. I used some pewter Rub'N'Buff on it, then weathered the edges a bit with some silver paint and then airbrushed gloss acrylic varnish over it. Now the bluing of the metal is done I can see I'll need to spray some transparent colours on it to get closer but it looks better than just bare plastic anyway.
 
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but if you decide to switch the Tomen kit's barrel for an aluminum or steel one do you have to cut off the original Tomen barrel or does it just screw out so you can put the new metal one in?

Im out of town and dont have mine with me otherwise Id check it myself.
 
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yes you have to cut it, then file it flat to the gun frame and then replace it with the metal one. I think there is also a metal flat bar at the start of the barrel that also has to be cut. It doesn't seem to be that cmplicated to do but it has to be done carefuly to get a clean result.
 
eethan said:
yes you have to cut it, then file it flat to the gun frame and then replace it with the metal one. I think there is also a metal flat bar at the start of the barrel that also has to be cut. It doesn't seem to be that cmplicated to do but it has to be done carefuly to get a clean result.
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Just remember to triple check all measurements with calipers before cutting :thumbsup
 
Buch said:
I did that. Why not!
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Indeed - it simply hadn't occurred to me. I will so right this very minute :)

Also just to be thorough - I hand polished the receiver down a tiny bit more and then, because it was mirror finish glossy and I didn't want that, I airbrushed over it with a very fine layer of matt black enamel paint just to knock it back a bit and add a slight bit of age to it. I will now stop fiddling.

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Ok guys time for me to ask a couple of newb questions. My searches have turned up little here:

1). How is the bulldog frame and cylinder usually finished from the tomenosuke assembly kit? do people just leave it as is? I believe it's plastic with metal powder added in and you can even weather it with wire wool? But I don't want to start hitting it and find it ruins it or looks weathered. So whats the deal?

2). I want to replace the barrel with one of Teddz' barrels; does anyone have a good procedure for doing so? I'm assuming you simply hack off the old one at the start of the frame, and the new one sits in place, locating on the metal horizontal bar. Do people glue them in or just screw the receiver on and that holds it?

Thanks in advance.
 
1) Look here: https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...21088809041?banner=pwa&authkey=CKPMzNOEpqjJQQ (THIS IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS!!!!!)

I'm just going to use a little rub'n'buff pewter to give the plastic parts some shine...

2) There's really not much to it! Make sure to measure everything to start with. Use a hacksaw, Dremel or grinder to cut off the barrel, leaving a few millimeter to file down manually to the exact length. You can glue the barrel in place if you want (make sure it fits with the front screws!)... I'll just let it sit there, the screws will hold it in place...
 

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