Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

Thanks for the tutorial Buch.
I have a couple of questions. Would you know if hot bluing also works on the zamak parts? Also, does cold bluing work on the plastic frame parts which are coated in metal?
Thanks!
 
Perma Blue - because I love the color :love Don't know how Super Blue looks, havn't used it... Perma gave mine a really nice color to my eye at least...

Ammo box on the Tomen kit doesn't need to be painted, the castings are usually pretty damn clean... I left mine unpainted. On the Coyle blaster they are usually painted because the castings themselves tend to be a bit on the rough side.
Hey Buch, thanks for all the great info!
 
Dude have you seen they do a paste? It says its the longest lasting finish, but takes the longest to blue up; that could actually be beneficial? Or should I stick with the liquid version??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-...99977585&sr=8-1&keywords=birchwood+perma+blue

My experience with B.C. paste on the Tomen is not good... in my experience it's more difficult to achieve a consistent finish with the paste than the concentrated fluid. But it might work for you? I've used it on a Sid-kit with OK results, not great, but OK...
 
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Thanks for the tutorial Buch.
I have a couple of questions. Would you know if hot bluing also works on the zamak parts? Also, does cold bluing work on the plastic frame parts which are coated in metal?
Thanks!

I'm not sure that the plastic parts are actually COATED in metal... they behave more like some kind of cold cast... you should be able to buff up the plastic parts to a metal finish using some kind of high grit sanding pad, and then blue it. I never got great results. So my recommendation would be to get a replacement barrel. Looks better, easier to work with... adds weight :thumbsup

Look here:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...21088809041?banner=pwa&authkey=CKPMzNOEpqjJQQ
 
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Well bluing is a pain is the arse isn't it? After several goes I'm sticking with this result even though it's still pretty patchy. I like the look though. I used the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.

I'm waiting for my steel barrel to come so I'll be bluing that, when I do I may well have another look at some of these pieces.
 
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Well bluing is a pain is the arse isn't it? After several goes I'm sticking with this result even though it's still pretty patchy. I like the look though. I used the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.

I'm waiting for my steel barrel to come so I'll be bluing that, when I do I may well have another look at some of these pieces.

What exactly did you do?
 
What exactly did you do?

Basically followed the instructions - after polishing I washed the bits in the supplied cleaner/ degreaser, used gloves ( tried only to pick parts up with paper towels) - applied the blue with the pads quickly and as uniformly as possible, left it on for around 30-45 secs, washed of with running cold water and rubbed down with steel wool at the same time. You have to be very very gentle indeed with that as it turns out

I did the receiver several times as it was either too patchy or I took too much of with the wool. TBH I'm happy with how it looks, I want a slightly worn look to the whole thing. Happy to find out what I did wrong, and for other novices to learn from my mistakes!
 
I don't see how that method would work... several problems...

Rubbing with steel wool AFTER application of the bluing will remove the bluing and give you streaks. Tap water contains minerals that will **** up the finish.... so basically, in my opinion, you've been sanding the receiver again after you blued it....

Btw the receiver needs to have an almost mirror-like finish before bluing in order for the bluing to adhere properly...

EDIT: This is, of course, if you want a shiny, even, blued finish...
 
EDIT: This is, of course, if you want a shiny, even, blued finish...

Yeah - not sure, I quite like it. But... I do have some distilled water so I could take it off and try again with that to rinse and see how that works. The blue does darken it more than I want so I'll need to take it down a bit after, I guess just using a polish will do that to a degree? Maybe I will have to have another go... :)
 
Tested have actually done a 4 part Tomenosuke blaster build which looks to be fairly step by step. which is fookin cool. Only available for premium members though, but well worth the money imo. I haven't watched any yet as its now nearly 2am here but thats my viewing for tomorrow morning.

Linky:
http://www.tested.com/premium/589868-lets-build-blade-runner-blaster-part-1/

(go buy premium membership guys, the Tested boys rock)

J
They do rock! I was thinking of joining Tested just so I could see Norm's blaster build video!
It would be great to get a bit of a "review" of the video. How long is it?
 
Are you going to pay money to watch a video before even trying? It's really not that difficult! It comes with an instruction :wacko
 
Thanks again, Buch.

I'm not sure that the plastic parts are actually COATED in metal... they behave more like some kind of cold cast... you should be able to buff up the plastic parts to a metal finish using some kind of high grit sanding pad, and then blue it. I never got great results. So my recommendation would be to get a replacement barrel. Looks better, easier to work with... adds weight :thumbsup

Look here:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...21088809041?banner=pwa&authkey=CKPMzNOEpqjJQQ
 
Yeah - not sure, I quite like it. But... I do have some distilled water so I could take it off and try again with that to rinse and see how that works. The blue does darken it more than I want so I'll need to take it down a bit after, I guess just using a polish will do that to a degree? Maybe I will have to have another go... :)

So... I did all that at the result was much worse(?) so now I've stripped the main parts completely and am getting a nice mirror finish like I should have done in the first place if I wasn't so lazy :)
 
So... I did all that at the result was much worse(?) so now I've stripped the main parts completely and am getting a nice mirror finish like I should have done in the first place if I wasn't so lazy :)

Bluing fluid can be a real drama queen. But surely the good result starts with a perfectly even surface.
 
Thought I'd ask on here. Has anyone ever created a how to video on replacing the plastic Tomen. barrel with a steel one (or would be willing to) ? Wondering if compete disassembly is required?
 

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