DL-44 FDM c96 & MGC replicas…

chubsANDdoggers · Oct 28, 2017

Here is a quick picture run through of my GREEDO KILLER blaster build..

chubsANDdoggers · Oct 29, 2017

BACABreath · Oct 30, 2017

Wow... very informative!! :$

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 1, 2017

I know for some building the Heat Sink Grille from the 3 cylinders can be a pain so I recently designed them up in master cam. I did two designs..

First is as close to film accurate (subjective of course) as I could come. I first I made an actual heat sink grille using the real reade cylinders then reverse engendered then into what you see below..

Here is my design printed up and finished..

And is my design along with the actual reade cylinders I cut up to duplicate..

All u need to do is cut the tips off. I left them on so u could get a more accurate weathered film look my doing by hand..

The second is more close to what you would see straight off the assembly line at “BlasTech Industries”. I also modified the inside of this second design so fits perfectly onto a denix (or MGC) with the bottom two sticking out marginally father than the top..

I think I got it pretty good. Even taking into account that not all the fines are equally spaced..

H0llyw00d · Nov 2, 2017

chubsANDdoggers said:
I know for some building the Heat Sink Grille from the 3 cylinders can be a pain so I recently designed them up in master cam. I did two designs..

Hey Chubs, a couple of things about your grills stick out to me. It may be a screen-used-versus-mental-image thing but why not use spacers behind the rail so you can extend the upper section of the grill behind the rail? Also, why not cut the grills parallel to the frame to have the fins extend in points at the edges so that it seems to enter the frame? You've done the plastic grill altering much more than I ever have, but if you are having issues with the dremel melting the plastic rather than cutting it I've found that using the slowest speed helps with that. Just spit-balling here, brother.

Here's my DEC/Denix/Todd's build to show you what I am talking about.:

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 2, 2017

I’m not 100% sure if I follow you sorry? But I do think my second designed grille has both of what you are mentioning?

H0llyw00d said:
It may be a screen-used-versus-mental-image thing but why not use spacers behind the rail so you can extend the upper section of the grill behind the rail?

I did do two designs so that might be a little confusing. The first one I did is for anyone who wants more control on how they would like to place them on the Mauser itself. I did shape them to be more inline with what they seem to look like on the real film prop itself. So they don’t have the sharp pointy ends. The inside and outside diameter, the fins themselves, the size along with the spacing are all pretty much 1:1 of the real thing [emoji106]

The 2nd design I believe is inline with what you are talking about here? It does have a spacer on the bottom two of the three so it will protrude out farther than the top third of the cylinders. This grilles inside is designed specifically to fit directly onto the denix itself. You literally just slid it into place. Is this what you mean by a spacer?

H0llyw00d said:
Also, why not cut the grills parallel to the frame to have the fins extend in points at the edges so that it seems to enter the frame?

I think I understand what you mean here. Again on the first design the film blaster seems to have been cut straight down so I did the same. BUT in the second design the edges are like this build (on my design thought again the bottom two will stick out a little farther than the top - something like .025 of inch if not less)..

They will run right into the Mauser just like the above picture. This is what you mean ya? As for the Dremel, you’re on point! With low speeds you can creat some extremely fine detail [emoji482]

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 2, 2017

Oh wait you mean spacers behind the rail itself? I actually do have spacers. On the 2nd grille design the top 3rd of the cylinder will go back farther towards the rail. It would disappear under your blasters rail for example. I think that’s what you mean right [emoji106]

But I also wanted to do a design that would be very film accurate so I designed one of them to be more line with these pictures. Here you can see the gap between the rail and the start of the grille..

H0llyw00d · Nov 2, 2017

chubsANDdoggers said:
I’m not 100% sure if I follow you sorry? But I do think my second designed grille has both of what you are mentioning?

I did do two designs so that might be a little confusing. The first one I did is for anyone who wants more control on how they would like to place them on the Mauser itself. I did shape them to be more inline with what they seem to look like on the real film prop itself. So they don’t have the sharp pointy ends. The inside and outside diameter, the fins themselves, the size along with the spacing are all pretty much 1:1 of the real thing [emoji106]

The 2nd design I believe is inline with what you are talking about here? It does have a spacer on the bottom two of the three so it will protrude out farther than the top third of the cylinders. This grilles inside is designed specifically to fit directly onto the denix itself. You literally just slid it into place. Is this what you mean by a spacer?

I think I understand what you mean here. Again on the first design the film blaster seems to have been cut straight down so I did the same. BUT in the second design the edges are like this build (on my design thought again the bottom two will stick out a little farther than the top - something like .025 of inch if not less)..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/c0ed830547360b2ba76244b32a75b856.jpg

They will run right into the Mauser just like the above picture. This is what you mean ya? As for the Dremel, you’re on point! With low speeds you can creat some extremely fine detail [emoji482]

That's exactly it. I think I've looked at the old images so many times I see a version of what the starry-eyed 8 year old saw on the screen that first time. Along with the shiny non-bumpy TK helmets. :/ Thanks for making a version for us idealized as-issued guys.

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 2, 2017

H0llyw00d said:
That's exactly it. I think I've looked at the old images so many times I see a version of what the starry-eyed 8 year old saw on the screen that first time. Along with the shiny non-bumpy TK helmets. :/ Thanks for making a version for us idealized as-issued guys.

Of course! In all honesty I build these very selfishly. I missed out on the MASTER REPLICA blasters back in the day which lead me to designing and building it myself. 3 years later I’m still carving out the details. But I’m really happy to share what I come up with [emoji106]

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 6, 2017

I’ve been designing and redesigning these parts for myself to build with for about 3 years now and I think what I have here is very close to what was seen on screen. Within 0.050 inches close I believe.

Field Marshal and I have being sharing our insights recently which has helped tremendously to speed up the process. That and paying close attention to the info shared here on RPF who have dropped some invaluable gold alone the way.

I’ve gathered and looked at everything possible from doopydoos to Todds to DEC for reference. Field Marshal has even reverse engineered the scope and flash hider from actually real parts but he’s also mentioned that even these parts very from each to each. So most importantly and most reliably is the actual film used prop. Unfortunately that prop as been lost forever (or until it’s found) so all we have left is pictures. But it’s very tough to scale accurately from pictures. If you do it 10 times it’s a good chance you will come up with 10 different numbers.

So to get as close to possible with some consistently I’ve blown up the pictures as big as I could and scaled from here..

The problem is that an actual c96 is a tad smaller than an actual denix. Not by much but until I realized this I was originally over scaling all my designs. Now everything is pretty close to being 1:1 with the film used prop (IMHO of course). The only part that is scaled a little bigger is the rail. It’s about 0.025 inches longer on each side to take into account the bigger sized denix.

Here is what I’m “aiming” for..

With this melting pot of info from above this what I’ve come up with. Personally I like my blasters to have the look and feel of sometime from a galaxy far, far away so I’ve left off the numbers/letters but I also realize most don’t feel this same way. So I did design up these parts with these details as well but just not using them in this forthcoming build..

These are the parts that I will be using..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 9, 2017

First up is attaching the bull barrel. Thanks to info shared by Kpax here on RPF I redesigned my bull barrel to where a simple cut into the denix will allow it to slid right on and into place with everything lining up as it should.

First I need to mark where this cut will take place..

Then carefully cut into it with a saw..

From here I then cut (pic above you can see the start) off the bottom as well as the end of the barrel. After I use a Dremel to soften the edges..

Once these steps are completed the barrel slips right into place..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

Next up is getting everything assembled but first I need to tap and thread the holes where needed..

1/4-20..

4-40..

2-56..

6-32..

Thread the Center screw 1/4-20..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

Now I start to assemble the parts and get everything attached to the denix itself.

Fist up here is attaching the dovetail..

Now the scope wheel..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

I designed this part so you can attach your denix wood grips to be more inline to what as seen on film. First you need to cut out the Center guard on the denix itself..

Open up the hole with 1/4-20 drill..

And these parts will fit and hold the wood grips onto the denix..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

Now with attaching the mount to the denix I like to get the bull barrel and flash hider in place. Then mark with a Center punch on the denix where the back rail will be attached..

I always like to start small and work up with my drill bits as you can’t go backwards with this process..

Now tap the 1/4-20 hole..

Attach the mount as tight as possible to find where the front hole will need to be. Once it’s in place trace in a circle and use your hole punch to mark it..

Next up drill and tap..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

Now for the Heat Sink Grille. These are designed up from the same style cylinders that are used on the film prop. I reverse engendered the design to what you see here.

I will weather them even further once I start painting as the film prop doesn’t have the tips. I kept them on this design so I can have the choice of film accuracy or more inline of how they might look straight off the BlasTech shelves..

chubsANDdoggers · Nov 29, 2017

Now for assembly..

And here I’ve markered the bull barrel black so it stands out a little better..

chubsANDdoggers · Dec 2, 2017

Here I modify my grille a bit. I have it designed with the tips but for accuracy to the film prop I will cut them off. I left them on just incase I ever want to build a blaster that’s not weathered..

chubsANDdoggers · Dec 2, 2017

Now on to painting. First I tape up parts that need to be attached. If not the paint will get in the way and a slip fit will become a nightmare of a press fit.

Now add some primer..

Two coats, dry then sand. Add one more coat of primer. Once dried your pretty much good to go but I like to sand once more. This time I use very, very fine sand paper..

Now I add some black to the grilles and some silver to the rest..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

chubsANDdoggers · Dec 2, 2017

Now it’s just a mater of painting and assembling. I got a little excited and added my black before the silver was 100% dry so I’ll have to redo my rail. The denix also still needs to be fully converted and finished. I have some glass lenses coming for the scope itself as well but so far so good..

DL-44 FDM c96 & MGC replicas…

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