Fantastic work Chubs! One question...where do you get stands like this:

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Next is to tap the mount hole with "1/4-20" tap, attach the mount and slid on the flash hider to make sure everything is where it needs to be..
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As for the flash hider (once you get the sight off) it should slid right on to where it needs to be..
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EDIT/UPDATE: if you are building a film accurate Luke or Han Bespin you don’t need the Motor/Coil greeblie

In between these mods I'll start prepping the greeblies as well. First I need to add some primer but not to much as I want to keep it from covering up the details (motor/cool)..
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Once it dries I'll lightly sand it (avoid the motor/coil) with 320 sand paper..
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Next up is adding (and repeating once dried) "metallic silver" paint as a base so I can weather it lightly once finished..
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"This is where the fun begins.."

Now on to modifying the Denix as much as possible [emoji106]

But first make sure to take everything apart in preparation for said modifications..
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Below are just some of the details I will be adding (or in some parts removing)..

[emoji106] The barrel of the Denix modified to fit the FH
[emoji106] Removed the Denix branding
[emoji106] Greeblies
[emoji106] Reversing the Sight
[emoji106] Removing the Bolt on Butt
[emoji106] MGC extraction marking added to Denix
[emoji106] Film Accurate Grip Screws
[emoji106] Reshapping the Trigger
[emoji106] Cleaning up the soft casting
[emoji106] Reshaping the Hammer

There is no particular order to go about modifying your denix so for this build I've decided to start with the base. This part was modeled directly after an MGC Mauser. Using this tool along with a Dremel the effect comes out really nice..
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For the mag release itself use what ever you can find to get things lined up properly. Here I've used a circle template as well as the center punch..
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For actually drilling out the holes it's always best to start with the smallest drill bit. Find the center punch hole then work backwards..
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I did use one more smaller sized bit (to make the hole a "bit" bigger) in between jumping to this one below..
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Now moving on to using a Dremel and saw to get everything moving towards the end goal which is the MGC..

Starting with the saw I cut the Denix to allow for the film accurate style grip screws to be attached..
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Next I move on to sanding down the denix and again moving closer towards what is more in line with an actual MGC..
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I use these two sanding grit bands. I generally start with the 60 grit for all the big parts and then do a finishing touch to smooth everything out with the 240 grit before ending with actual sandpaper (320). For the removal of the Denix logo I only use the 240 grit and then finish with the 320 sand paper..
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Then drill in this little detail as well..
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Finally as I mentioned I go over everything with "320" sandpaper to finish it off, including where the motor/coil greeblie will go..
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Moving on it's time to reattach the sight, epoxy on the MGC extraction mark as well as fill in all the Denix pin holes. First I start by cutting down the sight pin so it fits accordingly..
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Dremel off the sharp edges and make it a little more round..
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Next I reattach the sight adjuster (??) and reverse it from its original direction (should be facing "right" NOT left - looking from behind). The Denix originally and incorrectly has it facing left..
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Now I prep the Mauser by sanding it smooth for its MGC extraction marking. I've seen people mill this but I don't have that kind of equipment and besides the actually part is a separate piece anyhow. So in a perfect world it would be made up from two separate mods.

But since I don't have the ability to mill and this build is to best represent the film prop.. I designed this extraction mark and it works very well.

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Depending on the material you use the bottom might have some "bumps" that will need to be lightly sanded smooth. I choose to use "High Definition Acrylate" in black. It's a little on the expensive side in terms of material but it's easy to sand smooth and black all the way through (unlike the "black strong & flexible" which is just dyed black but white underneath)..
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Now I add the epoxy but just enough so it doesn't "goo" out on the sides and attach it into place. I will literally hold it down old school style for a few minutes so it dries flat and in place..
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Next I epoxy down the sight, otherwise it will continuously (AND annoyingly) flap up and down..
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Once it's dried (and then dried some more) I sand it down (320 grad) one last time to get the extraction mark as smooth and close to flat as possible without losing any of the details itself..
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Lastly it's time to fill in the Denix pin holes as this is a huge tell between the MGC and a Denix itself. For this I use "Loctite Repair Putty"..
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Fill in all the pin holes that need it and then patience young Jedi..
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Fantastic work Chubs! One question...where do you get stands like this:

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Thanks Billy Ray! These stands are something I came up with to display my builds. I'm not really sure how to approach your question as this is specifically a build thread and NOT a sales thread but.. DM I guess if you'd like to know more?
 
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Now it's time to sand (320) off the Loctite putty and cover up with tape where the motor/coil greeblie will be..
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Next up add some primer to cover up all the sanded down areas..
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Primer dries pretty fast so wait about 10 minutes and then lightly sand the areas that u added the putty..
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Add another layer of primer to cover these sanded areas to smooth everything out..
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Now just let it dry..
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Next up is modifying the grips..

Your options are limited when it comes to working with a Denix. You can either wait on the DEC grips which are nice but only available for pre-order a couple times a year? But honestly all you need is the denix grips themselves with replacement screws.


With a stock Denix mauser their grips are screwed in from both sides onto a middle bar..
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I found these at "MidwayUSA" (I'm sure they can be found elsewhere as well) and they work perfectly in size and length with the Denix grips..
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Here is the unmodified wood grips with said set screw..
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Drill out the middle of the grips (1/4 HSS)..
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They should fit nice and snug but if needed a light tap with a hammer will finish the job..
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When I first started I would epoxy pennies inside (which also works) but "Loctite" works as well.

When all is said and done you have yourself some authentic styled grips that are more inline with what was seen in the original trilogy [emoji482]..
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Back to BUILD THREAD index..


Back to the HERO thread..
 
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Now it's onto painting everything and attaching the greeblies.

First thing though is I need to paint the greeblies with a FLAT BLACK as it's the only paint that will take with the metallic silver. All other color paints don't seem to hold and bubble up when sprayed directly onto this metallic silver paint.

This is also a good time to paint the grip screw with a metallic brass as well..
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After applying the one coat of flat back I can move on to using SATIN BLACK for my finishing color.

Obviously you can paint your blaster however and whatever color you would like. I choose satin as it has a nice shine and this being Luke's first sidearm issued by the rebel alliance there's a good chance it wouldn't be some aged old worn out blaster.

For Hans builds I would use the flat black as his blaster has probably been around the block a few more times.
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Once dried it's time to move indoors, attach the grips and get the greeblies into place..
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First is to remove the tape covering where the Motor/Coil greeblie will go..
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Add some epoxy but not to much as you don't want it to goo out on the sides. Use a paper towel to get ride of any excess glue then press it into place..
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Do the same for the front greeblie but just be a little more cautious here as it's very small and even easier to smear glue all over place. You can paint it if needed but that can also lead to paint building up in the corners as well as an uneven paint job over all. So it's best to do it with care and precision on your first go.

Again use a paper towel to dab off the epoxy after you apply it to the greeblie itself. That way there's not a whole lot extra to smear..
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Once attached let it dry for while and..
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And for the finial touches on this base Mauser conversion is the weathering. Sand paper and an X-Acto knife are pretty much the only tools you will need here.

Since again this is Luke's blaster and not Solo's I like to keep the weathering to a minimal if possible.

Taking into account holster wear and bolts fired..
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This is where the METALLIC SILVER paint as your base comes into play on the greeblies. Here you can use the X-Acto knife to remove some of the black to reveal the silver underneath. It lines up nicely with the metal of the Denix..
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Continue on to building your m19 scope below..

m19 BESPIN SCOPE build
 
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Holster Rig "The CostumeBase" Modification:

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So what is the next best thing to holding a DL-44 Blaster in your hand? How about a proper holster to go along with it! Unfortunately, there are not that many holsters to be choosing from and the price on most are through the roof (here's looking at you Anovos!). Todds has to be the best bang for your buck but if his is not available and/or still out of your price rang..

This holster rig below can be found on either Amazon or eBay (the costumebase - seller) and will run you $130 shipped. FYI - I dont work for them nor am I affiliated in any way. This is just a thread of how I went about modifying it to work for my needs. Hopefully this will help others as well.

It’s pretty easy to find. Just search “Han Solo Holster” and it should come right up. I am about 5’10” and wear 32” jeans so the Medium fits my waist just fine. Also another positive with this rig is that being as tall as I am (or lack there of) it doesn't hang to low at my side. The tip of the blaster reaches my knee but does not hang below. This company does sell a cheaper one (around $90) but stay clear as it won’t hold a full 1:1 metal blaster build properly even with modifications..

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Right out of the box this rig will hold pretty much every 1:1 correctly sized DL-44 Blaster build (excluding the GK). I've tested it on my own builds including the HERO, EMPIRE's Hoth, Dagobah & both Luke/Han's Bespin, ROTJ and the TFA [emoji106]

But there are a few things you can do that can GREATLY improve this rig! The buckles attachments reshaped, holster strap shortened and some snaps repositioned or added to improve this already solid start.


What you will need to complete this modification? Well this is what I used.. Tandy Leather Factory Easy-To-Do Series Rapid Rivets, Snap Fastener Kit, Tandy Leather Line 24 Gunmetal Black Plated Steel Snaps, some wire cutters, a hammer and something to poke some holes..
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Below is what you will recieve (driod caller is included - blaster is not ). For the price you can’t do much better. The quality of the leather (if it is even leather) is thick and looks great. If you are not careful it will peal but the distressed look isn't necessary a bad thing..

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This first thing you should do is modify both the front and back buckle attachments. This modification will allow the rig to hang correctly at your side. You can use either a hack saw or a dremel. Both will do the trick and this mod is probably the most important one to consider.


The pattern doesn't have to be 100% to what you see here but this gives you an idea of just how to go about it..
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You can see the how this mod will allow your buckle’s attachment the extra room it needs to hang just right..
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“Tandy Leather Factory Easy-To-Do Series Rapid Rivets” will come in handy by adding a Rivet to keep your 3 lb Blaster holster more securely fastened. The holster as it comes is missing an extra rivet upfront. Without this mod your weighted blaster will cause it to hang awkwardly like in the first picture on the left..
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Adding this rivet as you can see will keep your blaster right where it needs to be..
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Next up you will want to shortened the strap that goes over your blaster as its to long right out of the box. It needs to be shortened to just about 9 inches long. You will need to add 2 new holes into the strap but you can reuse the holes that are already in place on the actual holster..
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Again you will be adding rivets to reattach this holster strap. Its all pretty straight forward and these pictures should lead you in the right direction..
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This is a minor fix as this screw just needs to be shortened. If not, its more of an irritation than anything..
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Next is an adjustment to keep the holster rig correctly at your side. As it is, it has a tendency to hang a little long on the back side causing the blaster to hang awkwardly forward. Here you will need the “Snap Fastener Kit & a couple Gunmetal Black Plated Steel Snaps”. The snaps (only on the back strap!) need to be move about 3 inches forward to keep the Blaster hanging straight down at your side..
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Now you can move onto the leg stap. You can choose to keep the length as is or snip it shorter. I snipped it shorter but also added one extra snap in the front so I can tighten it or loosen as needed..
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Once this is done your Holster Rig should be complete and ready for some serious COSplay! [emoji482]

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Back to BUILD THREAD index..
 
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Great mods on the costumebase leather holster. I've done almost exactly the same with mine. Strange how different the cut and color change run-to-run. The holster used to be more form-fitting and more brown. Yours looks almost black. With mine I went with a resin droid caller, costumebase energy cells and vintage ISI soda charger.

Good work and thanks for your contributions to the hobby. Future generations will thank you... :)

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Great mods on the costumebase leather holster. I've done almost exactly the same with mine. Strange how different the cut and color change run-to-run. The holster used to be more form-fitting and more brown. Yours looks almost black. With mine I went with a resin droid caller, costumebase energy cells and vintage ISI soda charger.

Good work and thanks for your contributions to the hobby. Future generations will thank you... :)

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Thanks again H0llyw00d for taking the time to scroll through it! Ya the belt is a dark color for sure but the pictures do make it look much darker. Here is another pic of this same rig..
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Here is a quick little build thread of how I go about painting Field Marshall's Bespin Flash Hider. I'm painting this for a Solo blaster build [emoji106]

I cover all the areas I do not want the paint to reach with tape..
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Then spray it down..
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Remove the tape. Grab your X-Acto knife and some fine sandpaper..

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And start your weathering process. If you think you've gone to far just start again..
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Back to BUILD THREAD index..
 
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Now onto an m19 scope build.

No matter the material (metal, resin or synthetic) the process is the same as below [emoji106]

We have a lot of options with these scopes in today's world that we didn't have even two years ago. At the time I got tired of waiting for other people's kits and took it upon myself to build my own. I had the Master Replica Luke Scope in my possession and it was a great starting off point. I do like to think I even improve it as well by adding details by breaking the scope itself down into 7 individual parts (not including the screws).

For this build I will be using all synthetic parts including a 3/4 and full circle light port. I do have these similar parts available in steel as well which adds some nice weight..

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First I tap the holes. 1/4-20 for the base and 2-56 for the front. I use the actual screw to tap the front holes and it works perfectly..

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Next I prep the parts to be primed. Covering all the areas with tape that I don't want any paint to get into. Then add some primer..
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Lightly sand them down..
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For the scope body I'm mostly just concerned with base where the screws will attach. I want these parts to be smoothed out. Then cover both with some tape..
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This is probably the detail that gets lost on most m19 scope builds. The body of these scopes have a sand paper feel/look to them and a great way to achieve this is to use a "stone fine texture" spray paint.

**When using Field Marshall's scope you will also want to tape up the light port..
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I use two coats and that usually does the trick. After which (and once dried) I remove the tape..
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Next up is use a metallic brass to cover all the parts as a new base. I also paint the back insert satin black..
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Two coats should do it. Once that dries I add some more tape to cover the areas that I don't want the next and final layer of paint to get onto..
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Add some flat black to finish it off..
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One coat is all it takes. Remove the tape..
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Then give it a quick spray once again but not to much. Just enough to add some color to the areas that were tapped..
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Now get your X-Acto knife and some sand paper. It's time to start the weathering process. Lightly use your x-acto knife to remove the flat black and allow the brass paint underneath to shine through. The sand paper I lightly use on the scope body itself..
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For the lenses I like to use polystyrene plastic and printed reticles that add some nice details..
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.
 
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Now depending on the blaster build itself you can choose your light port (HOTH 3/4, DAGOBAH full, Luke BESPIN 3/4 or Solo BESPIN full). For me I'm building a HOTH Solo blaster so I'll be using the 3/4 light port..
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Finally start assembling everything..
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I can always add a little epoxy to keep everything secure but first I want to make sure it looks good..
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