Beginner's Fiber Optics Questions

C

computergeek

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey all,

I'm relatively new to the modeling scene. I've built a few Revell models over the year, but most of my creative projects are props and costumes (I'm a member of the 501st). I saw the Revell Republic Star Destroyer (Venator) model kit, and fell in love. I wanted to go all out and add fiber optics, engine lights, etc. to make the kit look extra special. I've done some reading around the internet on using fiber optics, but I still have some questions.

1. At what point do you drill holes and run fiber optics? Should it be before painting is done? Or wait until after painting, before any washes? Or after all painting is done?

2. Does anyone have a recommendation of a good pin vise? I've gotten two from Amazon that are okay, but I can't imagine drilling dozens of holes with them.


Thanks for your time, I'm looking forward to learning more about all of this!
 
1- install FO before painting, leaving the strands longer than need be so they can be cut at the end of the build/paint
2-you will be drilling hundreds, not dozens! I bought a drill press set up for my dremel and that is what I had planned on using.

computergeek said:
Hey all,

I'm relatively new to the modeling scene. I've built a few Revell models over the year, but most of my creative projects are props and costumes (I'm a member of the 501st). I saw the Revell Republic Star Destroyer (Venator) model kit, and fell in love. I wanted to go all out and add fiber optics, engine lights, etc. to make the kit look extra special. I've done some reading around the internet on using fiber optics, but I still have some questions.

1. At what point do you drill holes and run fiber optics? Should it be before painting is done? Or wait until after painting, before any washes? Or after all painting is done?

2. Does anyone have a recommendation of a good pin vise? I've gotten two from Amazon that are okay, but I can't imagine drilling dozens of holes with them.


Thanks for your time, I'm looking forward to learning more about all of this!
Click to expand...
 
Drill, run fiber, assemble, paint, trim fiber back.

I use a Dremel on resin kits and a Tamiya Handy Drill for plastic kits.
 
Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely looking into getting one of the Tamiya Handy Drills. I have a Dremel and an off-brand rotary tool, but I'm not sure either would give me the precision I need. Plus some of the pieces in this kit have to be assembled before drilling (the side detail plates mostly), so the drill press attachment wouldn't help much there.

I'm looking forward to the build! I'll start a thread when I've got more of the tools together.
 
There is a another, far more painstaking method. Drill the holes first, paint the majority of the kit and then install fiber. The trick to this method is creating a small lens at the end of each fiber by holding the fiber strand close to a soldering iron. The end of the fiber will "mushroom" out a little creating a lens. This lens will also keep the fiber strand from slipping all the way through the hole.I've used both methods depending on how I want to attack the kit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
On my Ventnor build...

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=264139

I drilled the fo holes in the sidewalls using a benchtop drill press, then ran the fibers, secured them to the back of the sidewalls, modified the upper and lower hulls to let the fibers through, then painted and trimmed.

Have fun, and good luck!

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
 
Ooohh, Freeliner, thank you so much! I was hoping to find a scale model of the Republic Gunship, I just emailed that Shapeways store you used to try and get a few of them.

Do you recall where you got the engine inserts? I was going to design and print them myself, but if someone's already done the hard work....
 
I learned especially with models you're doing a lot of fiber optics with (star destroyers for example) that it is best to use one strand of fiber optic for two drilled holes. It leaves a loop that you can cut after they have been secured with silicone or some glue besides CA glue andddddd it helps doing the optics faster.
 
jthornton1993 said:
I learned especially with models you're doing a lot of fiber optics with (star destroyers for example) that it is best to use one strand of fiber optic for two drilled holes. It leaves a loop that you can cut after they have been secured with silicone or some glue besides CA glue andddddd it helps doing the optics faster.
Click to expand...

That's a great tip! Thanks!
 
jthornton1993 said:
" after they have been secured with silicone or some glue besides CA glue..
Click to expand...

He is correct don't use CA (super glue) on plastic fibers as it makes them brittle to the point they will snap off inside the model.

Other things to remember...
Kinks in the bend will cause the fiber to leak light.
Knicks in the outer shielding of the fiber will also cause light leaks. - you can use this to make effects like the strings of lights at a used car lot, or xmas light strings by painting the fiber then nicking the fiber to the center core.

The tighter the bend the less light you will get out of the fiber- if you need a tight bend in the fiber heat it up before bending.
You can change the fiber color by rubbing the tip with colored markers.
If you scrape the outer surface of a fiber strand and then add light, the area scrapped will light up like neon tube.
Unless you lens the end fiber optics tend to be dim when looked at an angle. You can over come this by lensing, or by lightly sanding the outer cover at the end..
There are others tips but this covers the basics.
 
I got all of my upgrades off of shapeways, just search for "venator" and the nozzle inserts and a bunch of other upgrades will show up, a bunch of great ones from cosmos models.

I secured the fibers using hot glue. But don't use a glue gun, it's too hot and will melt the fiber. I use a glue pot and toothpicks, thus let's me cool down the glue enough to not melt the fibers but still secure it to the hull. I've had no problems painting a black light blocking coat of acrylic paint over it, and the hot glue is a little flexible.
 
Freeliner said:
I got all of my upgrades off of shapeways, just search for "venator" and the nozzle inserts and a bunch of other upgrades will show up, a bunch of great ones from cosmos models.

I secured the fibers using hot glue. But don't use a glue gun, it's too hot and will melt the fiber. I use a glue pot and toothpicks, thus let's me cool down the glue enough to not melt the fibers but still secure it to the hull. I've had no problems painting a black light blocking coat of acrylic paint over it, and the hot glue is a little flexible.
Click to expand...

Awesome, I did find the engine pieces. So glad to see an improved bridge piece, the ones in the included kit were not very accurate.

ggriffaw said:
Does it matter if you drill from the inside out or outside in?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've heard to go from the outside in. When you drill the hole, it tends to cause some plastic debris to stick out around the hole. I would think its also easier to place your holes looking at the outside of the model


Shaunpug said:
What glue do most people use for small scale FO work?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've heard some use Aleen's Original Tacky Glue. As stated in the name, it has a tacky texture as you apply it, which helps keep fibers in place. I have yet to actually try to use it though


I appreciate everyone coming and giving their advice. Its definitely helpful to a newbie like myself!
 
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