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  1. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jul 14, 2017, 7:55 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #101

    Hoplitespear said: View Post
    ly <3 LeClubNerd

    EDIT: Love the unfold, I did 3D for a few years, makes me think of unmapping (mapping?) for texturing.
    Thanks mate. I'll post more pics. The vids are just and additional thing for things like unfolding or things that don't translate well in pics.
    On top of that I haven't got the hang of describing what i'm doing very well yet.
  2. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jul 17, 2017, 4:19 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #102

    So after unfolding the foot again it was time to cut it out again.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I was really worried about trying to cut the cutting boards with my jig saw but figured it would be quicker than using the Dremel. It feels like the kind of material that will kick back and i'd end up with a browken jigsaw blade embeded in my forehead. So i turned the saw down to it's lowest speed and it was fine. I then ran the belt sander over it but that melted it rather than sanded it.
    This stuff is so tough, I got the holes drilled but it literally broke my drill, not the drill bit, the drill.
    At least I know there won't be any break offs.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by LeClubNerd; Jul 17, 2017 at 7:31 PM.
  3. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jul 26, 2017, 4:17 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #103

    Ok time to finish the stilts.
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    The finished base plate, This is made from cutting board plastic, super durable, super strong, tons of flex. These won't snap or bend.
    So the foot is done now with extra height, 3cm in the front an extra 7cm in the back. On first test the sleight slope forward is not noticeable and feels comfy.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    All bits that were previously just glued are now glued and riveted for extra strength. This will mean if one part does go then the whole should still support rest of my weight without slipping.
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    Alot of bolts for the hinges..it may be overkill but i've learnt an important lesson.. less is not more, more is more.
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    The old boot cover doesn't even come close to covering the new height. That's fine though as I had no intention of using them anyway. I'll recylce the foam in unseen areas and then on the new design add some extra moving bits likle the ankle joint will make the circle ankle bolt turn.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's a quick vid of how they look, fit and feel.


    Before I move onto covering the boot in foam I want to get some details sorted on the torso, this way i'll always have several things on the go so if one things drying then another thing is printing etc
    So the original shoulder details started life quite nice but some masking took off all the detail. I was never happy abouty it but didn't have time to repaint it... and now i'm not going to repaint it. For reference here are the pieces in question.
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    As you can see all the carbon fibre paint effect got ruined. So i ripped it all off and it left this ugly mess.
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    I then cut the new shapes out of 3mm Palight and measured up some carbon fibre, clear acrylic and blue gel.
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    And here's the old and new for comparison.
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    Then onto the shield shaped thingie. I cut the Palight to shape and sized it against the original eva foam one. Marked up the lines then took it to the belt sander to bevel the edges a bit. I then used a wood burner to make the line, and jewellers files to clean it up, drilled through the holes and sanded it smooth before adding the battle damage.
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    This next bit i've not tried before but i'll dive in the deep end. I spray it black, let that dry then dab on some rust color. I spray it with hairspray then sprinkle on some salt where i want my rust.
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    I then spray it aluminium. Let that dry, then add the maskol where I want my silver scratches. I then spray it the base white mask that off and airbrush the yellow accent stripe.
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    In the meantime I make a better disc of eva, cover it in vinyl wrap carbon fibre and slip the nodule back in.
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by LeClubNerd; Jul 26, 2017 at 4:55 AM.
  4. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jul 26, 2017, 5:00 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #104

    I weather it up with a black wash and touch it here and there with a bit of silver. I then vinyl wrap the gap on the shoulder where they're all gonna go.Click image for larger version. 

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    I unmask the yellow and throw on the weathering in black.
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    All i have to do now is wait for it to dry to see if any of that process has worked at all... we'll see tomorrow morning.

    ....Didn't wait till morning..did it now. Here it is stand alone and in situ... i'm not sure it shows it but it really looks like it is made of real metal. I'm pretty happy
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    Stupid thumb print :/

    Old Vs New comparison
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    Last edited by LeClubNerd; Jul 27, 2017 at 8:22 PM.
  5. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Aug 1, 2017, 5:05 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #105

    2 Things i'm looking at addressing.
    1) Height
    2) Width
    We'll start with height.
    The image
    1- He started off looking all proportional.
    2- The leg looks correct here.
    3- The thighs are not attached at the top only at then bottom, they work but they swing out and free float they are connected at the knee to the shin. They were always meant to be connected to both.
    4- I think in this shot i'm feeling really weighed down. The shoulder piece detached from the backpack and is resting directly across my shoulders ... but even when this happened if i stand straight the posture of Rein can come good.
    5- Good posture the scaling looks legit in this shot.
    6- Slumping pre-stage, my shoulders were done in at this point and i needed to keep the weight off...
    7- Not slumped but i'm certainly not carrying the suit properly.
    8- Test fit of new shoulder straps... clearly this is too high and makes my arms almost unusable, but the shoulder somfort is good. So, all things being equal... i think if i raise it 5cm. It gives me 5 cm additional suit height, this raises the waist 5cm making him thinner as well.
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    Width - Here in pic 1 he was looking nice and sveldt but he hasn't got his hoses and side armour on.
    In 2 he's looking a bit wider, 3 is Ok and in 4 when the camera is lower he looks the right proportions.
    I may slim the thighs, the torso can lengthen when the shoulders go up by 5cm so the torso will streatch by 5cm too and can be done with the straps and i'm definately making the armour 3mm instead of 8mm...plus the hoses i' can push into the torso as they add alot of width.
    What do you think?
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    So, in the top pick in position 8 you can see that now the shoulders are too high, i started high so i can trim figure it's better to do that..adding would be too hard.
    Inside the backpack is a cutting board that just happens to be the perfect size.
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    First I curved 2 bits of pvc to the shape of my shoulders. I covered them in pipe insulation to cushion thema bit even though they're above the strap they will be pushing down on my shoulders. I cut a small hole in the backpack, slide it through, then bolt them into the top corners of the cutting board in the backpack. They can still swivel.
    I then get 2 longer ones and flatten them a bit and bolt them into the board as well but this time in a V shaped.
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    I line them up on the back then throw 2 more bolts into the poles.
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    I then heat it up and bend it around a pole of the same size as the shoulder strut in the torso. Once i've finished cleaning the torso up and carbon wrapping it i'll then bend it round more and rivet it in place.

    Thanks for looking
    Attached Images Attached Images
  6. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Aug 6, 2017, 6:29 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #106

    Before I install the backpack into the torso i figured i'd crack on with getting the torso ready for it.
    I started with the lighting and instantly reminded myself how bad at soldering I am... i got better as i went on but still bad.
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    Anyway, it works. Thw wiring is done and once i've got them in place permanently i'll program them.
    In the meantime i'd reinforced alot of weak points inside and then got to carbon fibre wrapping the outside.
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    This is a vinyl heatshrink/stretch wrap used on cars, fairly cheap and as long as the surface underneath is nice and smotth ity goes on like a dream. I have several lumpy bits but they are from where parts were removed to cover so parts go back on and cover all blemishes in fact most of this is covered up.. but the effect is so nice.
    Thought i'd just add the old V new comparison.
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    Last edited by LeClubNerd; Aug 6, 2017 at 10:10 PM.
  7. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Oct 18, 2017, 12:45 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #107

    Heh, been awhile I guess I might update the old thread.
    The lights in the previous post i had to remove, everything i've lined up on the suit is 5V and those lights weren't so weren't going to work with the rest of my set up. I'll get to the lights in a bit but i think i'll start with the hands.
    My inspiration for the hands were alot but basically after not really liking the bungie system I wanted to upgrade to something 3d printed. The problem was I've never used any 3d software before so i was going to have to teach myself some software.
    Hand inpspiration links -
    AlphaTech686 https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php...
    MWiggs https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php...
    Torch Art Lanterns https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?
    What I wanted to end up with was something that looked like MWiggs hands but functioned like AlphaTech686's hands. I spent a long, long time trying to just get my head around how they worked. They make sense to me now, but i recall just staring at pics of this style of finger action and wondering how the hell they worked.
    So I started by watching lots and lots of youtube tutorials and followed along making, boxes and gaskets and things I didn't need ... but i learnt a new skill.
    I figured i'd just dive straight in and start basic and build on it. Here's an early video
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    These ones were a fair way long in the design, at various points I printed out prototypes to see how they worked. (I hadn't taken the time to learn the joint and movement connections in Fusion 360 at this point)
    A quick vid of the hands in general
    Eventually I got to the point where the fingers were tentatively designed
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    While the fingers were being printed I attempted to redo alot of the parts that needed doing. It really felt like ground hog day and as much as i was enjoying working on the hands with my new skill I found the rest was being a drag and was finding it hard to be motivated.
    I was however lucky enough to be pre-selected for the Sydney, Oz Comic-Com Australian ChampionshipsofCosplay. A win there would put me in the Oz finals (same day) then to Chicago for Worlds. I had no expectations on doing well I just wanted to turn up and have a good time. So my motivation got me moving again.
    So while the printer was printing I got cracking on some of the other parts.
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    This is the neck yoke, I covered the original in 3mm sintra and repainted it the same way as I redid the epaulet's above.

  8. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Oct 18, 2017, 1:05 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #108

    I also started to cover the other chest parts in sintra too, this would give the parts that most people would touch a very soild feel. I also messed up the chest light again. I was putting a stronger light in there which showed alot more when it shined through and made it look ugly so i tried to neaten it up on the outside with a paint marker but it still looked bad so i tossed it.
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    I then found a round tupperware container, sanded it opaque and 3d printed the overwatch logo instead. If you look closely you can see the 3d infill but they don't show once it was sanded and painted.
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    I then moved onto other chest parts and drilled out large holes for the speakers which sit behind the exhaust vents.
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    I then followed the same paint process, black, hairspray + salt, silver, Maskol, armour colour then airbrushed black damage.
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    Once they dry they can be rubbed back with a damp cloth.
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    I then did some fill on the old shoulders, for weight they are still just EVA.
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    It was at this point I started trying to figure out how to get it all from the car park to the venue, SupaNova I walked which was the worst idea ever. This time I looked at either buying or renting a trolley or something but nothing seemed to fit the bill. So I went to the hardware store and bought 3x 3 wheeled mini trolleys and bolted loosely into the bottom of the struts he stands on, which is a nightclub speaker stand so it can hold alot of weight, i can now roll him to the venue upright.
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    Last edited by LeClubNerd; Oct 18, 2017 at 1:22 PM.
  9. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Oct 18, 2017, 1:43 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #109

    I also wanted to adress the heat issue. I bought a square tupperware container, ice packs or dry ice will go in the bottom, i then added a fan to the top and then designed and printed a vent for the top which 4 pipes attach to so it can distribute the air where needed in the suit.
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    Meanwhile the printer kept going...
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    I kept on going with other parts like the lights, here they are before and after being diffused..there are strips going into the shoulders, the fuel nacelles and down his back.
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    These are just normal 5V RGB LED's with a Trinket, they have a slow pulse, slow theatre and then pulse pattern... i want to add a slow fade as well.There are more lights to add around the fuel hoses but as need to be flatter i'm using El strips for those parts., not as bright but they fit the bill better.
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ID:	767247Here's some random shots showing the level of re-completion and a close up of some rust.

    I missed the deadline, I took the week off of work to get it done, I worked well over 110 hours and with 4 hours to go I pulled the pin and admitted to myself I would't make the event.
    Here's a longwinded wrap up....
  10. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Oct 18, 2017, 1:55 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #110

    I cleaned up the garage, dusted myself off and got back to solving some of the problems with the hands... they need to bend too much, I can't pull them straight from that distance up the arm...so i have come up with something new.
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    To turn that corner and get it straight up the arm i'm going to use rack and pinions... or chains. I'm working on rack and pinion right now. To do this right I'm going to make it all work in Fusion first, this will save me alot of time and filament but will mean I have to understand Fusion at a much higher level.
    This is a sped up vid... for those who like that kind of thing.
    and this vid shows how i'm struggling a bit with the joints, my new parts work fine but my old parts seem bogged down in bad design and work but very roughly and make Fusion seize up.

    Anyway, I made my first cog yesterday
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    So i'm on the right track, as well as making this cog from scratch, I have also used the cog generator script and imported McMaster Carr parts but even though I can eyeball all these I want to do it properly and correct mathematically..so i'll take my time and get it all right and working before I send even one part to the printer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  11. Member Since
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    Jan 9, 2018, 1:09 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #111

    Your Rein costume is absolutely stunning! Out of curiosity, how did you make the Reaper gauntlets and the Hellfire guns?
  12. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jan 16, 2018, 2:19 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #112

    HerosNeverDie said: View Post
    Your Rein costume is absolutely stunning! Out of curiosity, how did you make the Reaper gauntlets and the Hellfire guns?
    Heya, sorry for the slow reply. The Reaper mask was 3d printed and the Gauntlets were just EVA foam Pepakura, the files for the Gauntlets were via a Patreon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUs-vcFuSyY and the mask files I can't find a link for anymore but the Mask and Guns have 3d files freely available on places like Thingiverse.
    2018 Con season gearing up. Time to finish Rein once and for all
  13. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    Jan 20, 2018, 11:27 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt, Reaper and a lil D.Va [pic heavy] #113

    At the moment Rein is just on his stand. Con season is almost on so he needs to be done and dusted. I had to take a few photos today to show a friend how the torso attaches to itself.
    So it was good to feel the motivation finally kick in again.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chest box off
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    Back of chest with straps
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    Bare chest with carbon fibre
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    Arms off
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    Shoulders off
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    The ugly back, all of which will be covered in the panels
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    Entry hatch and but flap
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    Anyway, nothing new overall in the build itself but I will be updating this thread again as this finally reaches closure.

    As always thanks for looking
  14. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    3 Weeks Ago  Feb 2, 2018, 4:37 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #114

    I had the parts and idea for Rein's thruster for ages so decided to mock it up and see if the idea would look good before I committed to 3D designing and printing the frame to hold it.
    At the moment the 'D' shaped bar is just the holder for the mirror that forms the base. The idea was to have the fan either blowing in to give fresh air into the suit, which aleady has it's own cooling or to extract the air, which would be preferable as the air inside will be chilled anyway.
    The fan would sit above the mirror and i would dremel vents into the plastic salad bowl to allow air access then i was going to use the under neath of the fan to suspend the light ring which would face down and reflect the light back out.
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    A detailed diagram
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    So this is what it looked like when I just used the basic light pattern that I wrote for the chest lights, in this vid the fan is spinning blowing out


    In this vid the fan is blowing in, the fan has 4 little blue lights on it as well which now face down onto the mirror. The light pattern is just a basic attempt at a thruster sequence. The default thrust of the suit is blue but then goes red/yellow/white when he charges.


    I have tossed around the idea of smoke but with my hands being so involved with the main movement of the suit I don't think it'd be worth the hassle.
    Anyway, he's almost finally done
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    As always, thanks for looking and don't be shy to comment any input good or bad is greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by LeClubNerd; 3 Weeks Ago at 6:40 PM.
  15. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    2 Weeks Ago  Feb 6, 2018, 4:26 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #115

    One of the main problems i've had in getting the hands to work like i want them is the distance from the knuckle to my own fingers and the angle i need to force upon them.
    The cog and pinion system I was working on in previous posts would be great if i'd planned that from the very start but to line it all up at this point was going to cause more problems than it's worth. That's Ok though because I learnt so much trying to do it i'll definately use it in a future build even if i just make a mechanical hand.
    So, that leaves me with figuring out how to get the force applied to the knuckle as directly as possible.
    I tried coat hangers so they could bend around the wrist joint but over that distance they bend too much and I lose the force required to move each finger cleanly.
    So I attached dowel to them to give them some strength.
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    Now though it meant they won't hit my fingers at the right angle.
    So I took a photo from above to get the angle right and threw it into Fusion 360 and whipped up some bends for the dowels, an hour or so later I had my bends.
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    I threw them in and I now have clean movement in this hand. I bought some riggers gloves that are a size or 2 too large and i'm going to put a circle of wire around the glove opening to make it round so when i put my hand down the sleeve my hand slides in and just naturally finds the finger holes. I'be going to make some PVC finger tips with a U shaped bit on top and attach it to the dowel with another hook made of coat hanger. Once the gloves are in place i'll decide whether or not to cut some parts out for air alhtough i want to keep the strength integrity of the glove itself so i'm not sure.
    I also whipped up some greeblies for various parts on the suit, these were perfect for using up that annoying last few metres on old spools of filament.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also whipped up the stand and base for the thruster in Fusion, it was on the print bed but failed over night ..it's my first time with clear filament so i'll try some different settings tonight and see how i go
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    As always thanks for looking, questions or comments good or bad are appreciated.
  16. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    2 Weeks Ago  Feb 8, 2018, 3:38 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #116

    I got the hang of the transculent filament, my printer (or maybe my attempts at settings) gets a bit iffy when i change things up.
    So the base and the ring came off nicely, a hint of stringing but it was easily cleaned up, i'm guessing I could have gone for thinner parts to help with the transluency but we'll see when the lights are on.
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    It's not glue togethor yet because i still want to get right in there and add aluminium tape and mirrored panels I also want to add a small light ring facing out and a larger one on the back of the ring also facing out ton cover the dead spot of light made by the ring itself. I'll see how it looks.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It doesn't show it that well in a still but considering how easy it was to make i'm happy with the effect. I still need to work on a better light pattern but i'll do that when it's installed in the suit so I can see how it will look.
    ... took a quick vid anyway. The pattern is far from perfect but it's moving in the right direction..debating on whether I make the 'charge' effect that turns it red/yellow/white as part of the pattern or button activated..we'll see

    Ta.
    Last edited by LeClubNerd; 2 Weeks Ago at 3:52 PM.
  17. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    2 Weeks Ago  Feb 9, 2018, 5:32 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #117

    Today I started to clean up the EVA thruster, it was always a bit rough, this project was my first go at EVA foam I got better as I went along but some of the older parts are a bit sketchy. The thruster was one of the sketchiest so i was going to re-do it but it just fit the plastic salad bowl so nicely that I decided to just try and recycle it.
    I cut the bottom out of the salad bowl and used cable ties to secure it to the translucent 3D printed thruster base then sanding the edge of the bowl to give it a rough texture to allow the contact cement to adhere to the plastic properly.
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    It was already painted silver and black so I sprayed the inner a bronze/gold colour and the outside the same bronze/gold near the base and aluminium at the top.
    Then using a technique I saw Cosplay Chris do i airbrushed strips of pink, dark blue then a hint of metallic blue to get that a heat discoloration look before hitting it with a bit of black airbrushing to darken it a bit. It needs a bit of weathering and a little bit of drybrushing but i'll do that once it's installed on the suit.
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    I then got some 2mm foam and cut it into 4cm wide strips, sniped some angled cuts to make the vent shapes and covered them in aluminium tape. I've seen Adam Savage used this alot on his swords and other props. I wasn't so great on the 2mm foam as i'd hoped because the foam gives a bit so smoothing out the tape wasn't as crisp as i was hoping.
    I then threw them in and lit it up to take a look.
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    They're not glued in in any way yet and naturally i'd line them all up nicely. I'm in 2 minds, the soft glow of the thruster or the reflections of the aluminium strips?
    I don't have to make any decisions just now I suppose... I have two more light rings to add, they're in the mail...one is small and covers the branding on the fan and the other is the same size as the existing ring but they will both face out .. i think anyway
  18. Member Since
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    1 Week Ago  Feb 13, 2018, 3:30 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #118

    I consider myself somewhat of a Rein main...this is amazing! Awesome work and I can't wait to see the final outcome.
  19. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    1 Week Ago  Feb 14, 2018, 5:35 PM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #119

    onepunchdragon said: View Post
    I consider myself somewhat of a Rein main...this is amazing! Awesome work and I can't wait to see the final outcome.
    Thanks very much hopefully the final outcome is not far off.
    I lined the inside of the thruster with aluminium tape and slid in glued in the foam strips
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    In the photo it looks like i've just glued aluminium foil in there so i'm a bit unsure about the outcome now, it certainly reflects alot now I alos airburshed some 'burn' around the rim.
    It looks Ok lit up, i'll see when the rest of the LEDs arrive there's another ring of 16 and another of 48 to go in so that will make a huge difference. In the photos in previous shots it's only had 48 LEDs in there. The rest of the LEDs won't arrive till some time in March anyway so i'm setting this aside till then.

    This next bit is something i've been putting off for ages. It's really hard to work on the area from the forearm to the wrist because I reinforced the forearm sleeves with Sintra (Palight, aerated PVC) so before they'd slide on and off with just a bit of wangling but now they get damaged when i try it. So, i made the decision to cut the forearm sleeves off. My intention was to just make an incision around the back all the way down and then repair them once the entire assembly was complete as they are pretty light and carry no load at all. For now though I got lucky and actually did manage to get the left forearm off.
    In think i'd have to go back a few pages to show any kind of mechanical assembly for the old arms but the left one only had one finger functional so the hammer could slide into the hand. The rest were curled into a fist.
    So the hand was very basic but now it's time to attach the 3D printed frames and connect them to whatever assembly I was about to devise.
    This is what I came up with, I flattened some PVC pipe and slide it into the hand casing then bent it, poorly I might add, to allow the grip portion.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I then cable tied the glove to the cross bar. I cut some PVC finger tips heated them up on the glove before using pliers to pinch togethor the top to make a ridge. Once it cooled I rouned it off with the dremel and drilled a hole so I could attach a piece of coat hanger. I then ran a longer coat hanger from the thumb to the 3rd digit so they work togethor as there is no movement i'll need where I won't use both in conjunction anyway.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's really frankensteined, it's ugly, it's janky and nowhere near as smooth as I had envisioned it. So why did i change it from some perfectly functional hands that had bungees in them to these heavy monsters?... seems like a lot of hard work, learning Fusion 360, months of test prints getting it right, a month with 2 printers running to get it all printed... for what seems very little gain.
    Because I can pick up the hammer

    Excuse the shortness of the vid, my left hand is not my main hand, it had tested each finger all day and was tired, 37 degrees outside and i'm in the shed and trying to shoot it with my other hand while looking at the hammer.
    I'll do another vid when I have both hands working and looking all nice.
    It's still slightly janky but today i'm going to tighten things up and reinforce it all... anyway, my hand strength is passed on to the hand.
  20. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    1 Week Ago  Feb 16, 2018, 11:55 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #120

    So the jankiness problem I couldn't quite get my head around for a bit. The link seemed direct enough to me so the force should have transferred directly from my fingertips down the rods to the finger movement but was somehow being messed up making it ok to make a fist but difficult to re-extend the fingers. So I took the top of the hand part off to look at the movement better because when it's on the workbench and i move the rods it worked fine but when i put the glove on it gets janky.
    As it turns out there is too much sideways movement. To eliminate that i grabbed some Sintra and made some loops and channels to make sure each rod can only move up and down and not on an angle.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To be sure thins stayed in place I threw in some rivets. The first pic is the left hand that i've been working on and I started the right hand with my new found knowledge
    It's now much easier to grab the hammer...even with my weak left hand.
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    The hammer is deconstructed at the moment. All the hoses and the cover are off of it and it's mid paint job. Getting there though.
    I've also removed both arms in entirety. The upper arms needed some carbon fibre added in some parts that will be hard to work on when the bottom half has been re-attached.
  21. LeClubNerd's Avatar
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    6 Days Ago  Feb 18, 2018, 10:19 AM - Re: Overwatch: Reinhardt 'Uprising Skin' - Almost done #121

    Originally the carbon fibre for Rein was just a paint job, silver sprayed with black through a mat to make the pattern look like carbon fibre. I was happy with it at the time but vinyl wrap is fairly cheap per roll and the look of it was far superior so it was an upgrade I was willing to give a go.
    If anyone has had any experience working with vinyl wrap it can be a tricky beast to work with, I won't mention which ones but quite a few of my favourite cosplay content makers have used it in their videos and then torn it off afterwoods in disgust . In the meantime you can find 1000s of videos of people wrapping car parts or even entire cars perfectly and making it look incredibly easy.
    If you haven't tried it yet then from my meagre experience I have discovered a few things that might help.
    If the part is not smooth then the final finish won't be either. It's very thin and won't disguise any surface imperfections.
    It's not like the contact paper that you cover books with. To get the correct finish and for it to adhere properly then it must be heated and stretched over the surface.
    Think in advance which parts you're going to wrap... maybe some parts should be wrapped prior to joining. Some parts become too complex to wrap properly after they're built...unless you're a car wrap professional who wraps complex things like entire car hubs 5 days a week. You'll make a mess.
    If you get bubbles you can heat, relift and stretch it into place almost infinite times (probably not infinite but alot) so if you think you've made a mess and start to cry..don't, just heat it lift it and try again.
    Use a tongue depresser or a non sharp flat device to smooth it out when heated rather than your fingers it seems to adhere more smoothly.
    Now, all that being said... I am no expert, not by far. It is still one of the most frustrating materials i've worked with, it feels like you need 4 hands to control it..so maybe grab a friend.
    So, all my parts are already built and are complex shapes that were always going to be difficult to wrap, so my results got better as I went along ..some parts of the torso are perfect and some parts are ugly as hell... i've just made sure the ugly parts are in areas that will be covered up anyway or unseen in general.
    So here is a quick picture of my upper arm parts, they need bolts, greeblies, hoses, and a paint touch up but they turned out passable.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The most important thing about working with vinyl wrap is to take your photos from a distance... this way no one can see all the imperfections

    Seriously though for carbon fibre and for some chrome finishes it might be worth trying at least once.

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