Cheap PKD (Water Gun)


I came across an official vintage Steyr die and had it shipped from Germany. Makes for a great wax seal!
Ok, now that is pretty cool. At least your design leaves some room for imagination as to its contents. The ones specifically labeled .44-40 is just too weird for me especially ones with presentation cases in the style of firearms sold in the early 19th century.
 
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4500 and a few. It took three of those Umarex containers of BBs, 1500 each, and there was just a little bit of room to keep packing them in. For the grip, I think it was right around one containersworth, about 1500. Between one can of it, and some gapfilling caulk, you should be bueno. Note you'll want a little layer of superglue or caulk every one or two hundred BBs, just so they all secure. There's a couple that got loose in mine so there's a faint rattle when you pick it up - but it's not unlike having loose ammo in a real revolver, so I'm okay with it. I should note I didn't split mine; I poured in through the barrel opening and cut out the "light" part on the bottom to reach the rest of it. I was already going to fab over the rail mount for the flashlight, so I wasn't losing any detail or anything.

I'll probably split a second one, amber grips, though...that Gaff shotgun is giving me ideas for maybe making a side-by-side with the grip and rifle-receiver of one of these waterguns, and then just layered on parts. A lupara just seems the right kind of gun for Gaff, in all honesty. Certainly be unique!


Haha thanks for the reply, I was thinking ooh 250 - 300 could not work out the size of them
 
Looking good but I think an XC1 would suit it better. Knockoffs are only $50 shipped.

Huh, that looks spiff. I only have the one, left over from my shooting days, but I thought about fabbing something up entirely off a cheapie mini flashlight. An XC1 knockoff would be fine, especially since the mount mimics a standard rail well enough. The Surefire locks in place, so it shouldn't be hard to do the same. Or just...get a short plastic airsoft rail and use that.

Haha thanks for the reply, I was thinking ooh 250 - 300 could not work out the size of them

I was using the .177. I was surprised just how many BBs the thing DRANK. Also went through five tubes of superglue to secure it. Pro Tip: add superglue as you add BBs, every few hundred, or you'll never secure them all.
 
I ended up getting the blue grips version as it was the only thing I could find at the time that wasn't silly money. any tips as to how to color them correctly or is that something I am not going to be able to achieve and keep any sort of transparency?
 
I liked what Bill Doran did with adding the extra detail on the receiver (around the 6:50 mark).

The OCD in me is tempted to go through the Worldcon reference images and make it as close as I can.
 
I don't think there's any way you can color the blue plastic to look like amber. If you try adding red, it's just going to end up purple looking, no matter which side you ad it too.

And speaking of grips, I'm definitely going to need a set of solid grips. I tried removing the factory grips from mine and I managed to get one off, but the other cracked into dozens of pieces.
 
I don't think there's any way you can color the blue plastic to look like amber. If you try adding red, it's just going to end up purple looking, no matter which side you ad it too.

And speaking of grips, I'm definitely going to need a set of solid grips. I tried removing the factory grips from mine and I managed to get one off, but the other cracked into dozens of pieces.
Yeah there is no way of repainting the blue grips to make them convincing. Even the amber grips look cheap and nasty imho.
 
Just as a reminder, all selling takes place in the Classifieds Forums and only Premium Members are allowed to sell. Thanks.
 
Has anyone tried just filling it with resin from the water fill hole? I know youd have to do it in small batches so it doesnt get to hot and warp the plastic, but is it sealed good enough to do that?
 
This has been done, and documented in this thread.

I tried this with amber resin, and I'd be curious to see how other people did it. The problem is that the water reservoir doesn't actually go *all* the way up to the body of the gun--there's a section at the top of the orange grips that cannot be reached from the water-filling hole. I'll live with it, but I wonder what others did when they encountered this issue...
 
I tried this with amber resin, and I'd be curious to see how other people did it. The problem is that the water reservoir doesn't actually go *all* the way up to the body of the gun--there's a section at the top of the orange grips that cannot be reached from the water-filling hole. I'll live with it, but I wonder what others did when they encountered this issue...

This is how I would recommend filling the grip area fully with resin. I’ve borrowed wayouteast’s sawn-in-half blaster photo to get a better idea what’s going on inside. (thanks wayouteast )
For your first resin pour, you will need to twist and turn the gun around to manipulate the resin into the awkward area. (put your finger over the filling hole while you do this if necessary) Let it cure with the gun facing upside down. This leaves a straightforward area to fill with later pours.

resin grip.jpg

resin grip.jpg
 
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Has anyone tried just filling it with resin from the water fill hole? I know youd have to do it in small batches so it doesnt get to hot and warp the plastic, but is it sealed good enough to do that?

As long as you haven't removed the grips or introduced any other damage it should be sealed enough to fill from there, but you'd have to do a series of small volume pours so that the heat generated when the resin kisks doesn't warp the plastic. The front portion of the blaster is a separate chamber so you'd need to add a separate fill hole (I did mine through the upper barrel where that printed greeble goes. After pouring, rotate the blaster around as if you were roto-casting - this will distribute the resin around so the heat won't be focused all in one area.

There's a photo of mine filled fully with resin in the post here... https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=275949&p=4322088&viewfull=1#post4322088
The grip underwent a different process from what you describe - I first removed the reservoir under the grips and so used blue painters tape to create the back face of the grip (resin poured in with the thing in a horizontal orientation). I'm going to have to modify what I've done already to add the revolver grip shape though... Might just drill/dremel out the round and trapezoidal holes, and use a stencil to paint on the grip shape that goes under the amber grips.
 
I tried this with amber resin, and I'd be curious to see how other people did it. The problem is that the water reservoir doesn't actually go *all* the way up to the body of the gun--there's a section at the top of the orange grips that cannot be reached from the water-filling hole. I'll live with it, but I wonder what others did when they encountered this issue...
Once I'd modded the top receiver and cut an aperture in the barrel I just poured resin plaster straight down the hole. Only problem is a little seeped into the trigger which is now stuck but that's no biggie.
 
This is how I would recommend filling the grip area fully with resin. I’ve borrowed wayouteast’s sawn-in-half blaster photo to get a better idea what’s going on inside. (thanks @wayouteast )
For your first resin pour, you will need to twist and turn the gun around to manipulate the resin into the awkward area. (put your finger over the filling hole while you do this if necessary) Let it cure with the gun facing upside down. This leaves a straightforward area to fill with later pours.

View attachment 765049

I think my mistake was doing a lying-flat-on-its-side layer for each grip before trying to fill up the center of the cavity--I probably plugged whatever small connection leads into the awkward area and screwed myself from the get-go.
 
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I think my mistake was doing a lying-flat-on-its-side layer for each grip before trying to fill up the center of the cavity--I probably plugged whatever small connection leads into the awkward area and screwed myself from the get-go.

I had a similar issue with my first attempt. If you don't fill that area that I highlighted first, you will probably block the small connection gap and end up with an air pocket in there.
 
Good to know, thanks everyone.

I was gonna make a Deckard version, but given the writing on the receiver isnt accurate, i think I'm going to do a custom version with it, probably mainly black and gunmetal with pearl white grips and ill use the orange cap as a barrel extension.
 
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