Bandai plastic & Turpentine: a warning to STAR WARS modellers

What time frame did you observe these cracks appearing over?

I usually let the wash sit for about an hour on the model before wiping away the excess with paper towels and cotton buds. On each occasion that fracturing occurred, it was apparent as I wiped the excess oil paint from the model. Unfortunately I can't say how quickly it appears because I leave the model unattended during that hour long gap.

Coincidentally, I tempted fate just today when I applied a turps wash on my Vehicle Model Tie Fighter. Despite my best efforts at not stressing the plastic, a couple of small parts broke off the model. Fortunately the damage was minor compared to my experience with the X-Wing and easily repaired. From now on though, turpentine won't be going anywhere near my Bandai builds. It's just not worth the risk.
 
BLADE and BRUSH;4230451[B said:
]I usually let the wash sit for about an hour on the model before wiping away the excess with paper towels and cotton buds. [/B] On each occasion that fracturing occurred, it was apparent as I wiped the excess oil paint from the model. Unfortunately I can't say how quickly it appears because I leave the model unattended during that hour long gap.

Coincidentally, I tempted fate just today when I applied a turps wash on my Vehicle Model Tie Fighter. Despite my best efforts at not stressing the plastic, a couple of small parts broke off the model. Fortunately the damage was minor compared to my experience with the X-Wing and easily repaired. From now on though, turpentine won't be going anywhere near my Bandai builds. It's just not worth the risk.

OK so based on what I have bolded above, the plastic was given time to absorb the turps? When I did my Vader, I used Turps to simply thin the paint and help remove excess paint, but the parts were dried off pretty much straight away. I was adding the silver to his alternate cheeks and chin/neck and chest plate/shoulder bells and I found it easier to paint more silver than I needed and go back with black to thin the lines. Because I used silver and didn't really have a gun metal grey, Turps was used to thin the paint which allowed the black of the model to come through. It is not the neatest paint job (because this is my first attempt at anything like this) but it makes him look bad ass compared to all shiny black that he was.

The key upgrade of course was changing out the molded plastic cape for a set of custom soft capes where the under robe would go over the chest plate. The model has a molded under robe on the torso going under the chest plate. I need to track down some fine tip alcohol pens to colour his chest box lights next. I also have a black marker that is actually black and not purple, so might see if I can not neaten him up a bit as well.
 

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OK so based on what I have bolded above, the plastic was given time to absorb the turps? When I did my Vader, I used Turps to simply thin the paint and help remove excess paint, but the parts were dried off pretty much straight away.

That's correct. I let the oil paint/turpentine mixture sit on the model to dry for about an hour. I have no idea how quickly the turps reacts with the plastic though. 1 minute? 5? Half an hour? I just don't know if there is a safe period when dealing with turps on Bandai's plastic. The detail painting you describe for Vader doesn't sound as risky as applying a wash, but it's still a gamble.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.
 
That's correct. I let the oil paint/turpentine mixture sit on the model to dry for about an hour. I have no idea how quickly the turps reacts with the plastic though. 1 minute? 5? Half an hour? I just don't know if there is a safe period when dealing with turps on Bandai's plastic. The detail painting you describe for Vader doesn't sound as risky as applying a wash, but it's still a gamble.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

.
What kind of undercoat or primer are you applying the turp on top of? How many coats etc?
 
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What kind of undercoat or primer are you applying the turp on top of? How many coats etc?

I spray one coat of Tamiya rattle can primer to begin with. I believe it is a lacquer. I then airbrush Tamiya acrylics for the hull colour. Any small details are hand painted in Citadel or Vallejo acrylics. I then airbrush a sealing coat of Tamiya clear gloss acrylic, letting that dry for up to a week before applying the oil paint/turps wash.

That said, I believe the problem is that the wash is finding its way into the gaps between parts where there is no protective paint layer. Short of priming the inside surfaces of the model, I don't see a way to prevent the wash from getting in. Gluing the parts together will form a seal, but that's not practical in every circumstance.
 
Indeed, thanks for your thoughts. I am about to start my x-wing. Priming the inside doesn't sound like a bad idea. We'll see how it goes I guess.
 
What brand of turpentine are you using?

Regards, Robert

I've been using a brand called Recochem; manufactured in Queensland, Australia apparently. It's just a cheap supermarket/hardware store variety. I'm not sure if all turpentine is created equal, though. When I get around to my next build I'll be trying out the suggestions on page one.
 
I am about to start building the 1/72 Perfect Grade Falcon. I must say this post (and similar warnings I've seen elsewhere) have me pretty freaked out.

Can anyone advise which primers they have successfully used on Bandai kits? I bought some rattle can Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, but was worried about what is in the can and whether it'll eat my Falcon.

I've already ditched the Tamiya panel liner and decided to go all Acrylic/Water based (as per https://bandai-hobby.net/en/beginnersguide_tools.html and here). But need to find some way to prime.
 
I used the Tamiya Surface Primer on my Bandai 1/144 Falcon with a coat of NATO black then the AS20 spray. That was about 2 months ago with no visible issues. Haven’t used the panel liner or any turpenoids on it though. Don’t know if that helps.



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Has anyone ever tried to get anything official on this from the company? As someone who uses enamel paint, I'm concerned about even getting one of these kits if it's just going to dissolve or crack apart!
 
On one of the Bandai sites (I forget which one) it said to avoid Lacquers and enamels.

Looking at other modeling sites (Google "bandai plastic issues") it appears that the ABS pieces are most affected and any parts under stress.
Most say a good coat of primer will help avoid problems and don't let the enamel or solvents pool in areas.
 
Still freaking out about how to safely weather my Falcon. Was going to go with the Windsor and Newton Artisan water mixable oils as mentioned here. Just came across this however:


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That is essentially a gunk wash of just Windsor and Newton Water mixable oils which caused the plastic to crumble. So it may be the case that Bandai plastic also doesn't like whatever is in those water mixable oils.

Safest plan I'm thinking now is Abteilung 502 thinned with Unicorn tears. I really have no idea
 
Weird

I use the water mixable oils on dozens of Bandai kits and never had a problem.

Was the surface painted or sealed in any way?

Was anything else applied before using the wash?

As far as the crumbling, what parts crumbled? just the soft poly cap parts or other parts (hard to tell in that photo what the damage is, all I can spot is what looks like paint smudging and streaking) Or is it the arm joint that fell off?

I have seen a "greasing" type effect with oils (water mixable and regular) where parts don't crumble but the snap fit comes out easier, almost as if lube had been applied, but no actual damage or crumbling to the plastic and you usually have to wait until it dries fully to get it to stay again

That being said, I am very careful with any "poly cap" parts (the soft rubbery stuff). I make sure I either do no assemble them until last, and if they are exposed, they have at least primer or sealer on them

It is how I weathered the At-At which includes those type of parts
 
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